JohnD1956
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Posts posted by JohnD1956
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Don't forget about some heat insulation for the inner surface of the roof panel, too! Perhaps some of that spray-on radiant barrier stuff like they use on the underside of residential roofs?
NTX5467
Are there any insulation experts here? I have heard that insulation works best when there is a gap between the outside panel and the insulation. It makes sense to me but I wonder if that's incorrect science of the product.
If it is right, I wonder if there is any product on the market that simulates this and can be adapted to a vehicle? I understand there is a metal roofing material for houses available which does incorporate a gap between the surface exposed to the sun and the top layer of sheathing. But what I've seen is a textured panel to simulate roofing shingles, not a flat sheet metal panel that could be laid under the carpets etc.
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My condolences on the loss of your husband. Just want to say that this looks like a good project. Good luck with the sale.
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You probably need more of that ez cool on the entire underside of the cowl. Up behind the dashboard and in the front kick panel areas. If you have the under hood hoses for the vents do they need to be insulated as well?
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Rest in Peace Jim... And our condolences to all of Jims family and the Buick Club Community.
John and Linda De Fiore #3757
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Last I knew it should be okay regardless of using it in a Dynaflow. However, if you are uncomfortable with this D5, know that there is a drain plug on the transmission pan just like on the oil pan, so it is relatively easy to change the fluid in the pan. What's difficult is this will not drain the fluid in the reaches of the transmission ( the Torque Converter and the Tranny Cooler in the bottom of the radiator) , so just draining the pan and refilling will still result in contaminating the new fluid with some of what's already in there.
What did the internet search say about the 4 & 5 that makes it uncompatible?
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There is an idle air control on the throttle body. If I remember right, when you look at the throttle body from the front towards the windshield, it is the rectangular black box directly in front of you.
If you remove the air tube from the aircleaner housing to the throttle body what you may find is the inside of the throttle body is coated in a black tar like substance. While the inside of the throttle body throat can be cleaned with carb cleaner, you do not want to spray carb cleaner into the port just below the idle air control ( IAC) . There is a spray made specifically for the IAC, and you want to get some of that and follow the directions to degrease that sensor.
Then you want to spray the rest of the throttle body throat while the engine is off, capturing any run out with an old rag for disposal.
If your idle is still eratic after that I would suspect the EGR valve. Hopefully that's not one of those electronic ones like the 89 had which seems to cost a lot of money.
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Rats!!! A great car ruined by sitting on the dirt. Bet the frame is shot in that one.
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... I swear, these freaking cars have a mind of their own...
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Love the look with the road wheels...Nice job Thriller!
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Sweet success for a beautiful Car. Congrats Jerry.
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2K to rebuild the engine sounds inexpensive. And although a good price from the individuals perspective, not much of a bargain if done incorrectly.
Have you considered joining the Buick Club of America? Their monthly magazine is full of Buick specific parts vendors. I'm certain you can find vendors for all you need.
PS: Does anyone know if the aluminem engines already have hardened valve seats?
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Keep in mind that in Texas, with an 8 cylinder, and factory A/C, you will need to get the maximum radiator possible. Looks like you already have a 7 blade fan and that's a good thing.
Are you intending to keep this car completely stock? Because if not, you may want to research if a 64-67 300 engine can be fitted in there. The aluminum engines are definitely unique, but I like cast iron for long term durability.
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Just in time for the 2013 BCA Nationals which, if I recall correctly, will be in Illinois that year.
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What type of unconventional noise does the engine make? Screaching, knocking, or ticking? Besides that, if Dad is offering you the car for a nominal price, I'd be inclined to take it. When running right it will get great MPG, and the Air is fixable in many cases. Worst case scenario is you have to junk it. But I'm sure Dad took better care of it and would not saddle you with a money pit if he thought it was going to be one.
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I used the longer belts for the front seat on my 56, and just looped then up over the bottom of the front seat and then under the seat back Probably the best way would be to have slots sewn into the seat bottom for the belts to go through rather than over and under like mine do, but these seem to work good.
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I don't know about the area where you live ( each , respectively) but where I am we have a lot of cotton wood trees which give off a puffy cottony white pollen each spring. While doing the A/C on my 69 I noticed the front of the radiator was coated with the stuff. So I looked and found it was coating my 3 core on the 56 also. I cleaned it with an old toothbrush and a flush of the garden hose ( not a jet stream, just a flush) to avoid bending the core fins. Seems to have made a big difference in the GS but I haven't tersted the 56 on the road yet.
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Mvnielsen Sorry for the confusion. Here's two pictures to explain what I meant. It looks to me like you do not have the fader switch dial and that is needed to complete the circuit from the radio to the speaker. You may be able to put a jumper lead into the holes from the front of the radio for bench testing purposes.
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H Mvinielsen, hope I can be of assistance.
As to the plug, you can probably get some female spade connectors at your parts store, and then just push the connectors onto the spade connectors at the back of the radio.
The radio is transistorized and does not require a warm up. The knobs pull off the front and the knob behind the center one on the right should have a built in fader switch. You'll know if it does because the fader switch has three prongs attached to the rear knob. If you don't have this then the speakers won't work.
If you do have this then you may want to try a temporary speaker, just be sure to ground it to the chassis. The factory speaker will only have one lead because the frame of the speaker is the ground.
To set the push buttons first you tune to a station then you tug the push button of your choice out one stop. It goes easy and you should not be able to pull it out of the radio but you'll feel the one step stop. Then you push the button back in all the way and the station will be set for that pushbutton.
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I don't know how many times it can be done but I did get the original label off the factory installed compressor and put it on the rebuilt compressor I just replaced. I just slid a razor scraper along under it, then cut a piece of aluminum foil to match the size and glued the label to the foil, then glued the foil/label to the compressor. I will next try to scrape it off the rebuilt compressor for installatio9n on the new A6 we just put in.
But what four bolts are you referring to that lets the guts come out so easily? Pictures available?
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Well, it would be great if you started a thread on the "me and my Buick" section of these forums. We like before and after pictures.
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Hello and welcome Knowltey. Restoring a 98 Ultra will be fun but a challenge. If you need parts that are GM only, you may want to start stocking up. I understand that when parts get a certain age dealers are throwing the stuff away to make room for new parts.
Have any pics of that 98?
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Awesome color and great wheels... What a looker!!! Thanks for putting those pics up.
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Yes, Vapor Lock is an issue these days, but that does not mean something can't be done.
Insulate your gas line from the pump to the carb. Insulate it by moving it away from hot areas of the engine. does it route next to ( or touching) the thermostat housing, corner of the head, valley next to the intake manifold? If so, gently bend it away from these points and try again. Lastly I would consider wrapping the line with something, although I am not in a position to make a tested recommendation.
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Well Ron, sounds like a good plan till you look at the explosion diagram for the compressor. I would suggest a small modification to your suggestion. Put the new A6 on and then carefully remove your old compressors sticker and glue it to the new compressor.
BTW, on the way to Danvers, on an 85 degree day with high humidity, in a red convertible with a black to and interior, my system produced 45 degree temps at 50 MPH, and my wife actually got chilled in the car.
61 Buick Special Where to start?
in Buick - Post War
Posted
I believe it is generally accepted that Buick engineers had high nickle content valve seats in engines for years before 61. These seats are considered hardened and it is not recommended to replace them if they do not need to be. One of the problems being with the early V8's having close tolerance between the guides and the water jackets. Of course I refer to the cast iron engines, not this aluminum one, with which I am not experienced.
Anyway, I would be surprised to learn that this engine did not also have hardened seats. There is another source for information on these cars, it is a separate club for the 61-63 Skylarks. The compact Buick Club is run by Bruce and I would suggest contacting him directly. His e mail is Bruce@compactbuickclub.org