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JohnD1956

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Posts posted by JohnD1956

  1. Thanks JOHN!

    Yup...dead short to ground.

    Hooked it up right and the car never started so quick and easy...at the first slightest punch on the pedal! :)

    Gee, I'm dumb. :oops: :oops: :oops:

    I'm guessing that I burnt out the old points charging the battery for too long with the ignition on and the points closed, then I made it worse from there!

    You're welcome. Glad you got it running. I do love when you tap the pedal and the ole girl starts immediately.

  2. What a story! You must have a lot of storage space. And I hate to make your situation more difficult but may I inquire what diagnosis was done on the 2 dr's tranny to be sure it was not repairable while in the car?

  3. My old points had the condenser and ground wire screwed to a port on the side, the new points don't have that screw, so I placed those wires under one of the mounting screws? Correct?

    This is incorrect. The new points count on spring tension to hold those wires in. Hold the new points like you show in the picture, and then using your thumb you can push the metal towards the back side of the point assembly. When you push the metal ( aka the spring) back the connectors for the condensor and the wire from the distributor fit into that slot behind the nylon center. Then just let the spring go and they will stay there.

    I hope this makes sense.

  4. I had the problem with the wire being pulled out of the condenser before our trip to Colorado Springs. Thought about going to the points with the condenser built in after that.

    okay...chicken/egg here. which comes first, spark at the coil or spark at the points?

    skipped the first round of car shows today. partially because of rain, partially because my daughter still has 4 13 year old girls here from her party last night. :)

    There may not be enough room on the breaker plate for the built in condensor. You should have a loop of wire on the breaker plate that the coil wire goes under.

  5. Brian,

    The wire in the distributor goes from the points set to the bottom part of the distributor housing, then comes out of the bottom of the housing and goes to the positive side of the coil. ...Pete Phillips

    Pete, I thought this wire went to the negative side of the coil?

    Follow Willie's recommendation about putting a volt meter to the conection on the points with the ignition on. When you do this, move the wire a little ( don't go crazy and break it) to see if maybe loses connectivity. You might also consider replacing the condensor again just to be sure. Had a 65 Electra where we forgot to put the condensor wire through the wire loop inside the distributor on the breaker plate, and it was eventually pulled out of the condensor leaving the car dead on the road.

  6. hi folks,

    i'm pretty new to this forum. my lovely girl has a '63 skylark convertible that we're trying to save after a hit and run in brooklyn. i posted a wtb before introducing myself. i'm a bit of a vintage motorcycle guy. that's it in a nutshell. this forum looks great.

    best,

    jeff

    Hey Jeff, that car looks like it took quite a hit, but survived well. Should be worth fixing. If you have not joined the Buick Club of America I would recommend it Buick Club of America - BCA - Welcome. There are quite a few Buick vendors advertising in the monthly magazine and it looks like you're gonna need a few parts to get that Skylark back in shape.

    BTW, do you have 5 lug 14" rims on there?

  7. Hi to all from Australia, This is my first time on the forum also. I'm a confirmed petrol head and have acollection of cars and motorcycles (including a couple of Indians) to prove it. My current project is a 1956 Buick Roadmaster Riviera. This car was recently imported to Australia. It is in need of a good tidy up but should be back on the road in the next month or two. Also have a restored 1928 Faster 4 Dodge owned by the family since new and the remains of a 1919 Baby Grand Chev, also owned by the family. Hopefully one day I will get Chev back on the road, but it is a big project and will require a new body to be hand build.

    Getting back to the Buick RM, my car is in need of a couple of Jbars to replace the rusted out ones that were on it. Can anyone help?

    Binnsy

    Welcome to the board Binnsy. I can't recall which thread it was in but someone made their own using the top corners of a lesser quality rear 56 bumper. You might poke around in thos eof the 56 Buick threads to see this. Otherwise those things in good condition are difficult to find.

    Meanwhile, welcome to the forum. There's quite a few Buick Club Members in your area. Hope you can hook up with them. Put a post with some pictures of your car in the Me and My Buick column, and you'd be sure to find these knowledgeable people.

  8. I would check the wire from the coil to the distributor, and next I would check the timing by rotating the engine to the timing mark then pulling the valve cover for the first cylinder and making sure the valves are closed, then check the points to see if they are open. It does sound like your timing chain has stretched and may need to be replaced.

  9. My gut instinct is to say the fan rheostat. I found the one on my 93 Regal in the inside of the car, in the air duct, on the passengers side, practically at the floorboard. I cannot testify to the location on the Lesabre. Before looking for that I presume he tried running the fan motor with the engine off just to make sure it is not working?

  10. When I had my wires wheels on I used the soft foam paint brushes to wash inside the spokes and hubs. Problem was they did not last but a few washes. Then I tried one of those sponges for dishes. This sponge was shaped like a medusas head using rectangular foam sponges ( can't think of anyother way to describe it but got it in the grocery store) . This worked well for a season but eventually the head of the brush compressed and the hard plastic was hitting the inside of the hub.

  11. I had used Kelly Springfield tires a long time ago and would have put them on my GS if I could have found them in my area. I honestly thought they had gone out of business, but I am glad to hear they are still around. I just looked at their web site, not many 14" rim tires available.

  12. There is a company handling new reproduction T 3 headlights. If you are a stickler for authenticity, then they are worth the price. If you are just looking for safety, my NAPA still has non halogen sealed beam bulbs as well as Halogen sealed beam bulbs.

    The original T 3's will tend to give a yellow light after a while, but I still have one on my 56 Buick. The regular sealed beam will be brighter than your T 3's and the Halogen will be brighter still. But the repops are supposed to be just as bright as the other new bulbs.

    See the chart below.

    lectric ltd article 1.pdf

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