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JohnD1956

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Posts posted by JohnD1956

  1. Put a sheet of 4 Mil Plastic on the floor before you drive the car in the barn. I imagine the metal shed can be very humid in the winter what with unfiltered sunlight warming it up and cooling it off daily, thus you run the risk of dew and dampness impacting your car everyday. Check to see if the shed has ventilation and if the air can move freely.

    Also, I recommend you leave the hood open. Mice hate light.

  2. Can you post a picture of your door. It will help in detailing the removal procedure.

    Also, if Pete's prescription above does not work, AND you proceed to remove the window regulator to replace the motor before we have a chance to get back to you, DO NOT REMOVE THE MOTOR without locking the regulator in place. There is a way to do this, and if you don't you could find out what life is like without a finger or two.

  3. Definitely a sweet car. Take good care of those rear bumper ends. Don't let exhaust smoke stay on them long. Ones that nice are near impossible to find!

    The whole family will enjoy that car. BTW, I believe the BCA national meet will be in Illinois in 2013. Just around the corner from you.

  4. 62 Lesabre, great car. Many thanks to Mom for giving it to you to preserve. It's always fun to see this era car in the basic form, especially since Buick was positioned to be an upscale marquee, and then realize just how beautiful they were in any format. May you have 100K trouble free driving miles with this baby.

  5. I use any Dextron I can get at discount retailers for my 56. What you may not know is these tranny's have a tendancy to leak when not used for extended periods of time. Most often it seems to come from the rear seal of the transmission ( the Torque ball seal). Very often using the car causes the seal to swell up and work again. For instance after a winter's nap I used to find the tranny 2 quarts low. Fill it in the spring and use the car for 5-10 miles once per week and I never have to put fluid in all driving season. But I had the torque ball seal done and now it only leaks a little each winter.

    I would recommend one of the first things to buy is a large drain pan that you can put under the car for when it is resting so as to avoid an oil spill on your garage floor.

    I'll leave the rear axle maintainence to the 57 guys just mentioning that the 56's rear axle is similar to yours. Supposedly you can pull out the lowest bolt holding the differential carrier into the rear axle and the fluid will drain from there on the 56. I do not know for a fact it is like that for 57. However I would not even consider draining and replacing the rear end fluid unless I was restoring the vehicle and pulling the differential out of the axle in the process. With all due respect, I'm a firm believer in don't fix it if it ain't broken.

  6. I have thought about it. I wasn't sure if I should join the Buick club or the AACA? I ran across a buick club magazine and it was feturing newer roadmaster station wagons, they are ok but not exactly what I want to join up to...Buicknewbee

    Welcome to this Forum and to the world of Buicks. I was thinking about how that issue of the Bugle resonated with you and just wanted to add a thought or two.

    One of the best things about the Buick Club of America is the basis of this club is Buicks. All Buicks. In any way, shape, or form. Old, new, modified or original. People in this club may not want any particular year Buick, shown in any particular issue, and that is okay and expected. But most everyone appreciates the fact that each owner has developed an affection for their Buick and respect for all things Buick which encompases a lot of stuff considering over 100 years of production with many models.

    When you go to a Buick meet you hardly ever find BCA people just sitting at their car. Most times they are off inspecting the workmanship in all the various models present. Hardly ever do you find people bragging about what they accomplished with their own car. Instead you find many people genuinely interested in what you did and how you accomplished this or that. It seems everyone loves to hear the nuances of your car, be it the special attributes or even your story of how you found it. Then ask them about their own car and most times it's described as "Just a driver".

    You'll also find people who want to make your acquaintance and remain your friend. And that friendship brings a certain peace of mind when using your car. There have been stories of people enroute to National shows and experiencing trouble who found help and assistance beyond belief by looking for nearby members in the National Roster. You'll find stories of how people will help you with rare parts, just paying the favor forward.

    Of course, this, and any club, is what you make of it. But I think it is safe to say, and I fully believe, most people in the Buick Club of America are just the best! And I know I can say all the folks on this forum are really great!

    Please feel free to come back often and chime in where you want.

  7. I remember my 95 Riv having an 8.0-1 compression ratio and still requiring 93 octane gas. The 91 will have 8.5-1 compression ratio. You said you would not be too concerned with failure but I would think this will lead to detonation which would then automatically retard the timing and result in lack of power comensurate with the beefed up fuel mix supply.

    You said the 93 was running, I would consider using that block.

  8. "The push rod upper end is counterbored to form a shroud around a bleed hole drilled in the side of push rod tube. The bleed hole permits air and surplus oil to escape from the push rod, thus eliminating air locking and preventing excessive build up of oil pressure which would result in an oversupply of oil to the valve stem."

    This passage from the manual seems to indicate oil flow direction is up the pushrod, not going down the pushrod. I don't have any manuals from that time period so I find it most interesting that the common knowledge is the oil goes down the pushrod. When I think of oil flow I imagine the pressure within the closed system has to be directed to where there is the greatest risk of high pressue metal to metal contact. It's hard to imagine that risk is higher anywhere else than in the lifter to camshaft contact point. The counterbore in the pushrod relieving pressure means the oil pressure at the lifter to camshaft point is just a dribble? That would seem most unreliable. It's a wonder these engines ever lasted as long as they did.

    But to get to the point of the thread, I would use the new pushrods without worry. The upper end most likely cannot form a leak proof seal and any excess pressure would probably just blow by at the rockershaft to pushrod joint. It may increase oil presence at the valve stem but I also vagule remember a 38 owner telling me the rocker itself has a drilled blow-by hole?

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