edinmass

Ok boys. I think I’m the first guy to recommend Evapo Rust here 15-20 years ago. I especially like it to clean blocks and radiators. Heat speeds up the process as explained in the video. I would not use it on a frame like in the video…..to each his own. Great for rusty tools. Please watch the entire video, as the chemical reactions are explained in different areas of the video. It won’t touch paint, brass, copper, aluminum, or anything else. It binds with the oxygen in the rust and leaves metal alone. Back in the 60’s a NASCAR guy soaked his entire car body in hydrochloric acid……..made the metal thinner and thus his “stock car” lost half its weight. It was the same guy who made his fuel line four inches in diameter to carry twice the fuel load…….worked great till they changed the rules! Enjoy…… FYI- it’s fifteen thousand dollars of Evapo Rust. Fortunately YouTube and the manufacturer carry the out of pocket cost…….500,000 views in just five days.

I was driving a Springfield Rolls Ascott in Springfield back in 1984. Nice high point turn key car, and a 80 year old lady walked up and said “nice Model T”. I have my car recognized correctly more today than forty years ago.

200k wouldn’t even put a dent in the restoration costs. A running and driving car for 68k, or wait three to five years and have 500k minimum if a shop does it. Unfortunately, it’s probably destined to be a hot rod.

Yup……buy I was exhausted from flapping my arms!

Interestingly, USPS overall is more reliable for on time or early delivery than FedEx. Worst issue with FedEx……if you overnight package is going to be late…..they will lie and say they attempted a delivery and “no answer”. Well, we have video of the streets in front of our shop, and can prove their BS. Three times in the last year they admitted the attempt was “fake”…….and my package was left at the warehouse. I could go on……as most people who ship every day also can. I have had much better luck dealing with USPS lost or missing things than FedEx or UPS. Big Brown seems the worst to deal with.

Peter……the package I was thinking of was a lower seat cushion for a 30’s classic. Probably 56x30x14 so a fair size. But not heavy. I got a quote to ship a 50x25x25 crate overnight from Florida to NYC last week….$4200. But it was 300 pounds. A direct Spirit flight with it as “luggage” was less than 600 for me and the crate each way. A good reason to fly to see the city for a weekend and save a boat load of money. It’s still shocking what shipping costs are today for even the surface packages. On every car restoration we do now, we figure 15k minimum just for shipping costs of chrome, paint, upholstery materials, ect. Like the 26 dollar omelette I have at the local diner today…….that is the spill over effects of living in a resort area. Same breakfast in mid Ohio on a tour last month was less than ten bucks.

Stable prices over ten years means an actual drop in value of about 25 percent. The A’s & T’s are a bargain for anyone wanting in to the hobby. I was once told by one of the smartest car collectors I ever met…….when buying any year Ford………buy the best one in the world, as you will pay almost the same price. He was correct and I took his advice. I can’t imagine not owning a T, and mine is parked comfortably next to my Pierce Arrow’s. I get just as much enjoyment from the T as my V-12 Pierce.

Had a similar issue with FedEx. Package weight was 100 pounds when dropped off, and I was delivered a label weighing 1oz according to their tracking. Since the package was shipped special handling with an incredible amount of insurance, they were able to track the package through the system with cameras wherever it was handled by human hands. They actually know who put the thing in the “unknown bin” and couldn’t find it afterwards. Long story short, it was delivered to my local post office as FedEx, UPS, and USPS use the same hub for international shipments landing on the west coast. Only reason we got it from USPS was the customer listened to me and placed stickers all over the item inside with my address……….shipping today is a nightmare. Prices are ridiculous. It’s often cheaper for me to toss stuff in luggage and fly it to its destination. $1000 overnight shipping packages are common now.

I’m in Philly often. Also Cherry Hill Nj, as well as King of Prussia. There are several fairly knowledgeable collectors in the area. You should join the CCCA and you will meet a bunch of local people with knowledge and talent that can help you locally.

As a causal observer, I shall comment. Expect to spend 65k minimum for a rebuild. And expect it to take at lease a year. Of course that doesn’t include the waiting time in line before the shop gets to it. What is your location? We can make better recommendations that way.

Joao46…….your afraid of breaking something……..good for you. Extra caution is a MUST on ANY pre war carb. Removing the incorrect fitting could cause disaster………..it takes a craftsman’s hands to know what will or will not crack a casting or strip out threads. In one of your comments you said it’s running good now. With all due respect, if you haven’t driven a half dozen similar Chryslers…….thats a statement that is hard to grasp from either side. I have driven about a dozen of them. The are exceptionally fine automobiles and I would own one if the right deal came across the desk. I don’t hunt them, and thus far haven’t tripped over an offering that would make me pull the trigger. They are as every bit as good as a Packard Super Eight, big Pierce Arrow, and other similar cars. Where are you located? I get around quite a bit. It would be fun to stop by and visit with you and your car. Ed

Also figure in your traveling expenses….hotel, flight, shipping and detailing the car……… Most importantly……no one thinks about……… Auctions that sell thousands of cars in a week. You car get just a few seconds on the block, and “roll it”. Does anyone really think an auctioneer gives a shxt about the hammer price? They don’t work for more bids……..yes, a very few cars bring all the money……but with 4000 cars a few will always do well……most not so much. Many people whine to me their car sold for nothing………..look at the big picture. It’s a crappy way to sell a car. PS- don’t forget the damage done at the venue to the car with 10,000 idiots jumping in and out of it. My favorite…….stolen or missing parts after the car doesn’t sell.

Maybe the title should read who bought a car for under fifty bucks. My first purchase was a Buick for 25 dollars in 1980. Painted it with a roller with mixed latex paint….ended up a green/brown color. Drove if for a few weeks and sold it for 75. Thus my career of flipping cars had begun.

Here is the fitting, modern. Incorrect shape and flow rate about half the original. Been there, done that. Also has a much higher friction coefficient for fuel passing through causing vapor lock under many conditions. The plug or nut in the second photo is available new, and the rebuilder should have replaced it due to damage.......that tells me he doesn't work on Strombergs on a regular basis or he would have them in inventory. I would also bet the flow rate of a modern needle and seat are about 40 percent less than the original, but I have not had my hands on DD3 or a kit in over 5 years. So that's just conjecture. FYI- whenever I see modern fittings it's a 100 percent guarantee when I open things up, it's not gonna have been done right.

Castor.......well that's another story. You need to have your new tires on it and take reading BEFORE you decide where you are headed. It's not a 2020 F150..........you need to figure out where you are before you make adjustments for modern road conditions. I set cars up using my own specifications.

Camber shims..........

FYI Seeing that modern fuel fitting on the carburetor already tells me whoever worked on the car last didn't know what they were doing............

FASTER! FASTER! 😎

Nope, you need to do a proper alignment. Just about everyone who knows how to do them is 95 years old or dead. And you CAN NOT TRUST ANY SHOP TO DO IT CORRECTLY! Also, don't align it until you end up with the new tires on it.......you need to check steering box, king pins, drag link, pitman arm, and all the tie rods. Trust me....they need attention! Also springs and shackles are almost always forgotten. A proper alignment on that car today will take between 10 and 40 hours depending on your experience and set up in the shop. And do NOT use a modern alignment machine.........here is my set up on a Duesenberg.

I'm all for supporting the working American craftsman........and he did the same thing to a 29 Pierce Arrow sedan........a very common car and it's no great loss, but cut up a L29 Cord convertible.........it's like buying a rare French masterwork painting and touching it up with crayons and chalk. It's his property....and he can do as he pleases. In the end it's all just vanity and ego. Part of the overpaid "look at me crowd" that is such a part of todays world. I certainly hope it doesn't show up at the Auburn meet. Someone should give the ACD boys a heads up that that thing will probably show up at the Labor Day meet looking for approval..........I think I know what kind of reception it will receive.

If I expressed myself in the terms that I normally do, I would receive a permanent ban on this website. His junk shop….. excuse me, “museum”is only a couple miles from me. Knowing the kind of stuff he collects, I have never bothered to stop and see his stuff. In the world of Palm Beach he’s a popper. Having a few dollars doesn’t give you taste, class, or sophistication. It’s my understanding he made his money garbage in New Jersey. So it makes sense. That’s what he puts in his garage. To each his own.

Zero danger…….. the rule of stoichiometry applies. There is too much air mixed with the propane to cause an explosion. It just adds hydro carbons.

By the way…..even if the best guy on the planet rebuilds your carb……if you don’t clean the tank, flush the lines, rebuild the fuel pump, add in an electric boost pump, and check the sending unit your just wasting time and money. Also check the tank vent, fuel pick up line, and all the fittings are passing fuel at the correct flow/volume.

Best method for checking vacuum leaks is propane. Use an unlit torch from the hardware store. You can also use it to add HC’s in the event you want to diagnose carburetor lean conditions not caused by vacuum leaks. I have an aftermarket specialty tool that has a two foot brake line on the end of a rubber hose to direct the propane to a specific point instead of the larger saturation nozzle. Hard to believe, I think I paid 12 bucks for mine in the 80’s.

If all the channel plugs were not removed, there is NO chance that the carb will idle or adjust correctly. Maybe 1 percent of the rebuilders remove them, push through a mechanical device to clean them out, and then flush them, and replace the plugs. It's easy to ruin the carb trying to remove the plugs.......I only know of one rebuilder besides me today who pulls them EVERY time. No, I won't rebuild this unit. See photo below. Ed