edinmass

It’s probably a bypass filter, which needs to be regulated with an orifice. Here is the current best option……..they work great and I have several on my cars. Uses a five dollar spin on Chevy filter.

“Procrastinators of the world unite!” Tomorrow!

Interesting tester. It’s not really an Eisemann, it’s a Jack & Hxxxxxxx with an Eisemann label attached. I can say with certainty that Eisemann automotive ignition components can be difficult at best……..and terrible at worst.

Yes, I was aware it was sold also.........no clue where it ended up. Should have donated it to the ACD Museum considering what a jerk he was with the car.

Has anyone ever heard of an "English yacht trunk", its new to me.

Interesting they call a early Buick six a small car.........

Fortunately, there’s a lot of us normal people here……….. it’s the eccentrics that I find entertaining.😝

Hi Piers.....it should float in the hole freely without the spring. Varnish and carbon will cause drag.......If the valve has a bit from wear it's not a problem. Spring tension could also be an issue. Ed If you can't get it clean, put it in a toaster oven on broil for a few hours......it will melt varnish and free up carbon without scratching the bore. The oven should easily get it to 600 degrees. Do not leave the spring in the oven.

Got the Pulitzer Prize for alcohol consumption of Canada's finest export.

My only question is......who drank all my Crown and left the fridge half full? 😎 Little known fact.....I only drink to make people more interesting!

Gorge....I'm a connoisseur of all things Rye Whisky...........well, certainly more sewer than conna. 😎 I tend to swill.....and not sip.

Considering it’s not even a parts car, the price is still over the top.

I know where there is a good running take out engine for the Stutz………..

Looks like I’m doing two seminars. First is everything tires. The second is Everything Pebble Beach. How to enter and show a car. How to attend without a million dollars. Should be fun. Looks like Friday at 930 and 11 am.

Kent-More is very often miss pronounced. The correct way to say it is Spentmore!

Good for you...stock is best. The V-12 tank will be a challenge to find......PM me and I will give you a lead. Ed

I have a huge library from the early 1900's to the war, and I have nothing on Chrysler from that era. Using similar cars......Cadillac, Packard, Pierce, ect......and you will be fine. Lately I have seen sagging spring issues and bad shackle pins causing problems after people have already gone through the front end. Springs and shackles are often heavy and difficult to deal with.......never mind expensive. Checking ride height often the cars are leaning by up to 1/2 an inch. On a restored show car that had the springs re-arched the car within 50 miles leaned and settled again. It was shocking what it cost to make new springs today for a early car.

I think the trackers today will help prevent 90 percent of the stolen trailers. Most crimes are of opportunity. I think sticking a tracking logo sticker on the trailer would deter most people. I know some trackers that only work when the vehicle is in motion.........so that would prevent a scanner from picking it up. In reality, if someone really wants your stuff, you will be looking at the wrong end of a barrel.

There are severe chatter marks on the drum in the front photo you posted. Mostly at the outside edge, a sign of someone not knowing what they are doing. Some drums from that era are welded pressed steel, they should be ground. The seal looks like a modern replacement. Probably was a leather spring seal back in the day. CR Chicago Rawhide probably was the source. Should be simple to replace with just measure your ID and OD. Rear has felt packing like you typically see. Some cars had the leather seals internally near the pumpkin. Cadillac was that way.

Alignment specs published in the 30’s compared to how you align it today are two different things. Also tire size today tends to be much larger than what was on it in the past………aligning the car before you go through the front end is a waste of time. If springs are sagging, ride height incorrect? Unlike a modern car, you don’t just toss it on a machine and turn a cam or shove the strut mount around. Take baby steps. You’re new to pre war world and going full speed ahead…..which I respect. You ask questions, and that’s also good. Almost no shop will have experience with type of car you’re playing with. I would set the toe at negative 1/8 of an inch. Be sure to set air pressure at 45 front, 40 rear and road test it. Little steps. If the front end as any issues, alignment is just a waste of time and money. I would expect them to bill you for several hours plus shims if they align the car. I doubt they have the proper equipment to set camber. I would run positive 1/2 to positive 3/4 castor. First I would do a sweep and see what cross camber and cross castor is………setting everything perfect isn’t always the best option with camber issues. Also, check for death wobble. You don’t want to discover that with a load of people in the car.

Interesting thread, and very technical……….I have only experienced two bad condensers in fifty years and countless miles. One car had 103 year old originals in it.(1914 Caddy). I have had at least twenty coil failures over time. Seems today lots of the old units that were fine for decades are giving up the ghost. Had a coil failure last week on the 851 SC speedster. Happened right after the float sank. It was a rough month driving the Auburn.

Probably doesn’t have seals. Most likely just felt. Don’t be afraid to take it apart. Some cars just have reverse slingers, so as long as they are not overfilled you’re good to go. Never had a big Chrysler rear apart. Post photos when you take it apart.

If your tank is missing, it was probably running on an electric pump with those two Johnson carbs…….a very bad idea and basically begging for a fire. Most likely your carbs are modified…….so be ready to take them on also.

I prefer not to drive cars with cracked blocks……..and yes especially on pre 20 stuff there are often cracks and castings flaws that evapo rust will find. Finding cracks doesn’t bother me, driving a car with a crack would.

I agree.......we shall see!