Matt Harwood

Go get back in your Camero, will ya John? Check the hidrolics before you go or you'll end up riding in the back of a herst. On topic, however, this is a nice little car and I have to say that I've never seen a '41 Desoto convertible before. '40s Mopars are some of the best-driving cars of the period and this would be a lot of fun. Good luck with the sale, I think it's a neat car!

Perfect! It worked exactly the way you said it would. Excellent answer and excellent instructions. Thank you!

I should have this quote painted on the wall of my showroom. Someone said it in an earlier thread and it's just as true here: bargain-hunters usually screw themselves.

In the old software, you could upload your photos and then rearrange them so they appeared in the order you wanted. The new software just seems to upload them in a random order and there's no way to reorganize them once they're uploaded. I even tried uploading them one at a time in the order I wanted, but after five or six photos, it started putting subsequent uploades above the others, so there's really no way to predict where they'll land. It's not a big deal, but it's kind of annoying beause I like to present the cars a certain way that makes sense. I spent quite a while trying to figure it out--is there an organizing feature I'm not seeing after the photos are uploaded? Thanks! PS: FireFox has gagged twice on some script related to the photo upload. Once it was enough to crash FireFox, the second time I was able to ignore it and refresh the page and continue. Don't know if they're related.

*SOLD* The hardest thing for me to do in this business is to not fall in love. However, I'm going on record right now saying that I love this Cadillac. I bought it with my own money and I'm pretty choosy about how I spend my cash, and in the last month I've driven it about 500 miles, including a 250-mile day tour a few weeks ago. I drive it to work every morning and home every night, weather permitting. And it just works like a car is supposed to work. Like the 1963 Riviera before it, the 1932 Buick 90-Series sedan that I sold two years ago, and the 1941 Cadillac 60 Special that won AACA HPOF of the Year, I'm sure I'll regret selling this car. Is it a perfect car? Hell no! It's pretty nice, perfect for tours and casual shows, but not points judging. Get in, have fun, and if the bugs get plastered all over the front end or it starts to rain, well, who cares? The paint is probably 30 years old and while it's acceptable, it's not perfect. There's some checking and some micro-blisters atop the front fenders, so we gave it a professional buff and polish to wake it up and it looks quite presentable now. I'm proud to be seen in it, I take it to local shows and tours, it was in the Memorial Day parade in my home town, and I think it looks great. I was going to paint the top dark gray for a two-tone look, but I think putting new paint on this old paint is a mistake, so when you repaint it in 4-5 years, that's the time to do it because the Sedanette body just begs to be two-toned. The body is very straight and I don't think it's been off the frame. Fenders are good, doors fit well, and the trunk lid, which is problematic on fastbacks (ask me how I know) fits extremely well. The chrome is a mix of original and restored pieces--obviously the bumpers and bumper guards are new and they're quite nice, but I think the rest is original. The grille is very good, the hood ornament is excellent with crisp details, and the pot metal pieces like the hood vents, door handles, and windshield wiper stands show the usual light pitting. I've been trying to find some better door handles, because I think they're the worst parts, and to me, the door handle is the car's handshake and I like it to be nice. But overall, there's nothing that jumps out as deteriorated or needing immediate help. And yes, the skirts are steel, not fiberglass repros. The interior is new as of 2014. It uses period-correct striped wool cloth to achieve a very proper look and there's new stuffing underneath so it's all-day comfortable. The door panels, headliner, and carpets were replaced at the same time, and it all looks great with minimal wear. Obviously the steering wheel is deteriorated as it's wrapped in leather now, and things like the window garnish moldings and dashboard are painted body color instead of woodgrained, but I almost think that was optional in 1941--at least it was over at Buick. All the gauges work, the wipers really want to work, but the radio and clock are inop, although the radio does power up. The heater and defroster are disconnected, which is a good idea just to avoid trouble while touring with 20 feet of heater hose under the car, and the trunk was restored with plain carpet so it looks tidy but it's not 100% correct. There's also a full sized spare with cover and a jack assembly, just in case. The engine was rebuilt a few years ago and runs superbly. I spent $1800 or so to have the water pump rebuilt, new exhaust manifold gaskets installed, and a few other details done when I first got it and now it runs like it should. Someone at some point replaced the hand throttle with a manual choke, but it would be easy to switch it back or just leave it alone, it works fine. Pull the choke, turn the key, push the button and the sucker starts instantly and idles well, even when it's ice cold. It's got a nice V8 burble from the exhaust, which looks like it was done by Meineke, so if I keep it all summer and continue driving it, I bet I'll replace it sooner rather than later. The engine bay is nicely detailed with correct green paint on the engine but the manifolds are painted instead of porcelainized. It has a 3-speed manual transmission that shifts well and the clutch action is light, and the only thing keeping me from making this a permanent part of my collection is that I'm a HydraMatic guy, but I understand that many people prefer the manual.The front suspension was rebuilt last year in preparation for the 2014 Glidden Tour, which this car completed without incident. The brakes are also recent and it rolls on four brand new Lester whitewalls with freshly powdercoated wheels and nice hubcaps. There are no squeaks or rattles underneath or inside, it tracks straight, it feels tight, it stops true, and holy cow, I LOVE driving this car! It cruises happily at 60 MPH without issues and we ran it pretty hard on that tour two weeks ago and it never complained a bit. No hard starts hot, which is unusual for a flathead Cadillac without an electric fuel pump. I recently sold a burgundy 1941 Cadillac sedanette to a large, well-known dealer and it's now for sale for about about 50% more money than this one, but quite honestly, this one drives better. The paint isn't as nice, but all things being equal, I would rather have this one and that's not a sales pitch. I'm asking $32,900 for this handsome Cadillac and I don't think you can find a better tour car than this. Some folks say it's too modern and that using a car like this is cheating, but there's a very definite appeal to being able to get in, turn the key, and go anywhere in modern traffic without a second thought. This car will do it and do it well. Thanks for looking!

Poor Model As, they always get treated to the most haphazard modifications by folks with questionable skills and tastes. I have a relative by marriage who has some kind of Model A that has a Toyota motor, some kind of hybrid Pinto/Mustang suspension, VW wheels and brakes, and all kinds of other bizarro modifications. The car looks awful, but it's still distinctly a Model A. Why he did it that way, I can't say, beyond the fact that he's a tinkerer without a lot of money. But every time I see it, I shed a bitter tear for that poor little car. For the time and money he's spent on it, he could have done it right. Instead he has some kind of abortion that is neither fish nor foul. Now I understand why Frankenstein's monster followed his creator all the way to the Arctic to kill him...

Jack, that's kind of apples vs. oranges. I agree that satin black looks great on that car's trim given the other modifications. But on a relatively stock 1926 Dodge? Not the same, not even close.

I, too, vote for the Buick. 1931 was the first year for straight-8 power and for that reason alone I like it more than the REO or the Model A. The Model A isn't really even in the same league with the other two and in terms of poise and driving experience, the Buick will be the best driver of the three. It's amazing how much better more expensive cars were back then. Today, all cars drive about the same and it's all shades of gray, but back then, a more expensive car was better in every tangible way, from materials to the way it "feels" going down the road. The Buick, and to a lesser extent the REO, will be superior road cars. Still primitive, but not AS primitive as a Model A. And I have to think that an A/C compressor on a Model A engine would steal half its 40 horsepower, maybe more. Not sure I'd want that to be honest. I also like the Buick Club of America, which is one of the biggest and best organizations for old cars. I'm sure the REO club is great, too, but just based on sheer numbers I think the Buick will have a better support network. As you say, the Model A will have better parts availablity, but neither the Buick nor the REO will be made of unobtainium, so I wouldn't worry too much about parts replacement. On the other hand, in the future if you want to sell the car, Model As are pretty easy to sell, Buicks less so and a REO even more so. Price them right, no problem, but none of these cars will appreciate noticably while you own them. Get in and enjoy! Put me down as a Buick vote.

I shipped this lovely low-mileage 1964 New Yorker to an excited new owner in Germany a few months ago and it arrived missing some trim pieces. Sadly, it appears that they were stolen while in transit and since their value is below the deductible on the marine insurance, there's not much to be done about it. I told him I would help him find a replacement piece, so if anyone has a '64 New Yorker parts car with the trim (missing) shown in the photo below, I'd like to buy it. He also needs the emblem on the C-pillar on the driver's side, which was also stolen. Any help is much appreciated!

I hate to say it, but you can always tell when a restorer couldn't afford chrome because the alternatives look awful. There's just no way to make a powdercoat or paint look like real plating. Doing the grille shell black, if that was correct in 1926, is not a big deal but I would strongly recommend against doing it on the bumpers. It'll just look cheap and like you gave up and took the easy way out. I'd rather see deteriorated original bumpers than the wrong finish and I bet I'm not alone. Save up for the chrome and you'll be happier with the end result. Otherwise you'll always look at it and wonder if everyone else has noticed how bad it looks (yes, they have, they just didn't say anything). PS: $900 for a grille shell is a bargain! I got a quote for $2300 for just the grille of my '41 Buick...

4409 is a Special Model 41 4-door sedan.

A few other points. One, I didn't mean to imply that having money is the only way to have fun in this hobby, but what Berine said makes the point better than I could: bargain hunters usually screw themselves. Two, I don't care how much money you have and I don't limit my business to high-dollar cars (I just sold a really nice MGB for $10,000). There's room for everyone at every level. However, if you make a low price your main criteria and aren't equipped to make a reach for the right car or to spend a little extra when the car you do have needs help, then you're going to end up like the original poster who got a bargain that turned out to be the most expensive car he's ever owned in terms of emotional captial. I know exactly how he feels and it stinks. My advice applies no matter how much you have to spend. If you're pinched for cash, then save up for another year or two and get yourself more of a cushion. Times are hard for a lot of people, but this is not a hobby for people without at least a little disposable income. And even though it seems hard to understand from your perspective, buying a quality car for more money up front is ALWAYS cheaper than buying a car that needs work that you have to keep paying to fix. A cheap car is The Death of 1000 Cuts. This isn't a game that can be done on the cheap. It can be done relatively inexpensively, but money is the lubricant for the machine that is this hobby, there's no way around it. Save up a bit more, start shopping in about the same price range you're looking in now, and you'll be equipped to reach up to a really good car when it comes along without stressing yourself or your finances. Otherwise you're just spinning your tires.

What's the best place to buy a car on the cheap where you are guaranteed to get a great car, don't get scammed, and don't have to pay shipping? If you find this mythical place, please let us all know! Seriously, though, as a dealer, here are my thoughts: My advice is to pay more for the right car. My advice is that if you don't trust the seller, then pay for a plane ticket to go look at the right car in person. My advice is to pay for [enclosed] shipping to get the right car home. My experience is that everything you're looking for (inexpensive and local) is the ideal way to get a crappy car, but at least you'll get it cheap. If you want a good car, you should be prepared to spend more time and money hunting it and possibly more money to get it home. If you shop price and price alone, and/or if you limit your geography, you'll end up with a car that you settle for simply because of price or porpinquity. In the long run, a few extra dollars (even a few thousand extra) will be insignificant compared to the price of fixing a bad car and/or the lousy feelings you'll have about your new/old car that's not what you expected (feelings you're having right now about your Model A, yes?). This is the hardest thing for people to understand and every day I deal with price shoppers who make the same mistake, but this is a hobby. Why invite headaches by making a discount price your primary criteria? Quality should matter above all else, but given the number of truly crappy cars out there, most folks don't seem to care about anything but price. Don't be that guy. That's my advice.

That seems like a heck of a lot of car for not a lot of cash to me. I even like the color and you can't go wrong with how well these A-body GM convertibles drive.

I'm really none too pleased that there's really only one game in town for antique tires. Radials? Not really a problem, but when I went looking for new 20-inch tires for my '29 Cadillac, I discovered the Coker makes them all, regardless of what brand is on the sidewall. I paid $465 per tire (times six--sidemounts, don't you know) plus $90 each for six innertubes, plus $45 each for flaps, plus $40 each to mount and balance, plus shipping, and wouldn't you know it, they turned yellow within weeks. Many headaches later, second set of tires, wheels beat up by a second dismount/mount process, three new inner tubes, and I have a different set of wide whites that turn yellow even faster than the first. I can scrub them and they'll stay white long enough for an afternoon show, but by the following weekend, they're yellow again. So yes, I do think we're being screwed. Quality sucks and since there's no other game in town the lone manufacturer doesn't have much incentive to work out the problems.

To be honest, even people well-versed in the hobby are forgetting (or never even really knew) what "unmodified" means. The Ohio Region of the CCCA hosts a big car show every Father's Day and we insist on unmodified, stock, as-the-factory-made-them cars. This year, for the first time, we added a check box on the registration form where you indicate that your car is unmodified and then you put your initials next to it. We're hoping to avoid the half-dozen or so hot-rods that show up each year and make a big scene when they're asked to leave, which embarrasses everyone. Last year a guy with a big engine and giant tires on his '60s Dodge was asked to leave and he did a huge burnout in the parking lot before he left. Yeah, that's the kind of quality people we want... My wife, who is the registrar for the show, is being innundated by questions about what qualifies as stock, unmodified, etc. "I have a 1954 Jaguar that uses an electronic ignition, can I still bring my car?" "My 1968 Mustang has radial tires, can I still come?" "My 1929 Model A has a modern water pump, can I still go to the show? "My car is converted to 12 volts, is it still eligible?" This is a veritable minefield she is forced to walk through because the line is so blurry and ill-defined. How "modified" is modified? If it looks stock, is it OK or will someone call us out on it? If we let a car with aftermarket wheels in, what happens next year when someone at this year's show wants to bring HIS car with aftermarket wheels (and maybe some other modifications)? It's a very slippery slope indeed. A good example is a guy who contacted us yesterday who owns a 1926 Model T with period-built Mercury speedster body. Is it modified? Well, yes, but I say let it in because it was done in-period (or at least could have been). However, there are those in the club with different opinions, all of them valid--it IS a modified car. It's a pretty gray area. It seems to me that purists know how the cars are supposed to be and are concerned that ANY modification will exclude them, and I don't think that's right because altering an old car is almost inevitable to keep them on the road or to maximize our enjoyment of them. On the other hand, there are plenty of folks with heavily modified cars who don't seem to understand that the cars are modified at all. For example, a lady contacted us and told us that her '56 hardtop (make undefined) looked stock and could she bring it. We asked for photos. Sure enough, a 1956 Chevy with modern paint, shaved trim, lowered suspension, big wheels, chrome engine, and leather interior. She apparently had no clue that the factory didn't build that car like that and even told us WE were the morons because we didn't understand what "stock" meant. WTF? There's a disconnect, but only one side of the equation seems to enjoy actively sticking their thumbs in the eyes of the other (post #1 is a perfect case-in-point). Every single one of the dozen or so hot rods that show up the morning of our show and expect to get in at the gate (it's pre-registration only, there's a fininte amount of space) goes away angry, acting like WE are the problem.

You're right, and I apologize. That's not how I meant it, of course. What I meant to say is that old cars are not targets for thieves interested in monetary gain because the cars and their associated parts are difficult to sell. Thieves are interested in quick gains, not the potential for a big score on a rare old car. As a result, something like a 1926 Dodge or a 1929 Cadillac or, as I mentioned, an early Rolls Royce, has zero value to them. There is literally nothing a thief wants less than a car that will be impossible to fence.

Western Union = scam. Every time. I'm shocked that anyone still falls for it, but it obviously must catch someone else they'd stop doing it.

First, Volo isn't a museum, it's a car dealership. With that in mind, it shouldn't be a surprise that the cars at their show cover the entire spectrum. Much as I'd love to feature only CCCA Full Classics in my showroom, as a dealer I have to have a bit of everything in stock if I want to capture a larger market and excluding modified cars would empty my showroom. Or perhaps it was put on in conjunction with the AACA local chapter as a fund-rasier. That's what we do locally in our CCCA region, we have a large car show that shares revenues with the venue that hosts it. We get the registration fees, they get the gate. I'm guessing that's how it works and that's why it's priced like it is. Secondly, this wasn't a trick they played on you, the admission fee was published and advertised that way. You were surprised only because you didn't pay attention, not because they did something underhanded. They didn't want you going to your friend's car after you refused to pay admission for obvious reasons, you can't blame them for that. How could they know you were going to get your stuff and leave immediately (would you have?). We do the same thing for the very reason Bulldog mentioned--to get more cars in the gate. Each registered car @ $24 gets two people in the gate, and the club gets to keep that money. Otherwise it's $15/person and the club gets zero. More cars = more money for the club. Finally, the car that won the big prize doesn't seem like everyone's cup of tea, but they probably have some kind of guidelines that determine which car wins and that car won. People's choice, probably, and if there's one thing I've learned, it is that the general public has pretty poor taste in cars.

Interesting how perspectives and times change things. I envy you guys who could buy cars for triple digit prices back in the day. My "one that got away" was a 1934 Packard Twelve sedan that I probably could have bought for $65,000. It would have required me to sell everything I owned and mortgage everything I couldn't sell and probably take out a loan, but I regret it once in a while. I regret it even more in that we had it consigned and for sale and the buyer and seller made a private deal and cut me out of the transaction, so I didn't even get a commission. I'm not in the business of suing people, but it was a pretty lousy thing to do, especially since the buyer is a guy known for doing things like this. My mistake and I don't let it happen anymore, but I still regret the whole thing. I also regret selling my all-original 1941 Cadillac 60 Special. That was a wonderful car.

Well, the answer is "it depends." It depends on the condition of your cooling system, the weather, how far did you drive to get there, and other factors. If the car is already very warm when the parade starts, sitting still won't help much. If the cooling system or block is full of gunk (typical on straight-8 Buicks) then it won't have the reserve capacity you might need for a parade. There's no way to say that all 1934 Buicks do well or do poorly in parade conditions. Personally, I worry less about overheating and more about the wear and tear on the clutch--parades are murder on vintage clutches. Whenever I do parades, I take a car with an automatic or a truck with a very low first gear that can just creep along without slipping the clutch.

SOLD! Thank you!

I don't think it is, although I've been wondering about it. I just hovered over a few members' names and saw that one was red and had a -7. How do you get -7 likes? I don't particularly care about likes, but that number definitely has me curious now.

Location and price?