Matt Harwood

*SOLD* Hard to believe this is a 50-year-old car, isn't it? Even more remarkable is that the restoration is now 25 years old and still extremely nice. As far as I can tell, this is a real GT, although early Mustangs are notoriously difficult to document since the factory lost all the records. All the proper components are in place, even the little things that forgeries typically omit, and we have pre-restoration photos of the car that show all the GT equipment, so I strongly believe it's a real-deal GT. It's also loaded with options including A/C, power steering, Pony interior, Rally-Pac, styled steel wheels, and a remote outside mirror, a feature I've never seen on a Mustang this old. All the sheetmetal appears to be original to the car, as there are no patches or signs of cutting and welding on the body, floors, or quarters. The car scored 385 out of 400 points in 1990 in MCA Concours competition and has been driven about 2400 miles since then. As a result, the correct code 5 Signal Flare Red paint is extremely nice and the body is very straight. The doors fit better than many old Mustangs and the finish uses single-stage paint, so it looks quite authentic. There are a few signs of age and what I call shelf wear, but overall the car remains very impressive. One of the only nicks on the car was present during its first judged outing, so it has been very well maintained since it was finished. The weather seals are supple, the white stripes on the rockers are bright and crisp, and all the chrome was restored or replaced during the restoration and sparkles today. And it's worth noting that many of the demerits noted in the judging sheets have been rectified, including a new windshield and back window. The black Pony interior is correct as well, and was completely replaced during that restoration. With only 2400 miles on it, the upholstery is still very good, the seats are firm, and there's minimal wear on the carpets. Everything works, too, which I find remarkable: all the courtesy lights, horn, radio, gauges, clock, and the A/C blows cold with good old R12 refrigerant inside. The gauges are bright and clear, the steering wheel is in great condition, and even the little stuff like the arrow for the shift indicator, which lights up red when you turn the key, is fully operational. The fold-down rear seat makes the fastback practical as well as sporty and the insanely complex vents on the sail panels work like they should. The trunk is detailed with a plaid mat and spare tire cover, as well as a jack bag, and the spare is a matching styled steel wheel with a redline bias-ply tire, which, if not original, is nevertheless pretty old. There's no way to determine matching numbers on an early Mustang, but this car carries a correct 1966-coded 289 cubic inch V8. The A-code made 225 horsepower using an Autolite 4100 4-barrel carburetor, which is still in place on this car. It's got a Cobra dress-up kit, which was probably installed after it was retired from show duty, and there's a cleverly disguised oversized aluminum radiator, but everything else appears highly correct. It's still in great shape, although you can tell that it has been driven and isn't quite as crisp as a show car. The C4 3-speed automatic shifts crisply and powers 3.00 gears in the 8-inch rear, which make it an easy highway car. Manual disc brakes were standard on the GT and it has a proper dual exhaust system with trumpets protruding through the rear valence. Handsome styled steel wheels carry brand new 14-inch blackwall radials that have less than 100 miles on them, so it's ready to go. I love this car. My wife loves it even more. She's got a '66 GT convertible and she's aching to have a matched set. Sadly, it's not to be. But if you're looking for an exceptionally nice early Mustang with all the options, you can't do much better than this. We're asking $42,900 and I'm always open to reasonable offers. The only Mustangs nicer than this arrive at shows in trailers.

This really is an excellent show. We attend each year and our whole family looks forward to it and we usually organize a caravan of friends to travel with on the way down. The hotels are around the "ring" of the commercial park, the cars and the show are in the middle, and pretty much everything is walking distance. Park your car, look around, get some food, go back to the hotel to freshen up, take a swim, whatever. It helps keep the kids occupied and doesn't get too overwhelming for them to sit by the car for hours and hours. I usually bring the 1929 Cadillac since they're light on Full Classics at this show, but since it's a big Buick meet, I might bring the '71 Skylark convertible or the '63 Riv instead. I keep longing for the '41 to be done so I can use it--if only my days were 36 hours long, maybe I could swing it! Anyway, great show, highly recommended, hope to see you all there!

It may not be that your media isn't sifting down, but I bet your pick-up tube is getting clogged. Mine does this too, and sometimes knocking the funnel with my knee will knock it loose, but more often, I'll put my thumb over the nozzle and pull the trigger, which diverts the air down the pick-up tube, clearing it out and it works fine again. Hope this helps.

Hell yes, I'd buy it. Tuckers are worthy cars and I've always wanted to at least drive one. The father of a friend of mine owned one and sadly his mother sold it a few years ago when they were merely $300,000 cars. I never got a chance for a ride. Is that particular car worth $800,000? Maybe. Could you restore it for $200,000? Possibly. Is it worth more than a million when it's finished? Likely.

SOLD! Thank you!

SOLD! Thank you!

You guys know I love untouched original cars, and this incredible E-Type is one of the most accurately preserved E-Types I've ever seen. I can't quite call it a "survivor" because it was repainted about 20 years ago, but beyond that, the list of parts that have been replaced can be counted on one hand. Heck, it still has the original hoses, the original fan belt is in the trunk, original spark plug wires, and even the original tires still on the original wheels! It has been recently and comprehensively serviced, so it's ready to drive or show at any level, although if you're going to drive it a lot, I might recommend replacing some of the original hoses and setting them aside. It does have brand new Pirelli radials and new chrome wire wheels, so that's handled, and the original Cosmoline-protected spare is still in the trunk, completely untouched since 1969. The mileage of 20,724 is correct. The guys who did the repaint were at least careful to respect the original look, so it's single-stage paint with a soft shine that doesn't look too far off the original Sable Brown lacquer. This is a life-long California car (sold new in San Diego) that came to Ohio eight years ago, but the California sun must have faded the paint enough to justify the repaint. However, the finish in the jams, under the hood, and on the chassis is original and you can see that it just wouldn't have measured up on a car of this quality. All the chrome except the grille bar is original (original piece included with car) and was pulled off the car, the back sides were cleaned and protected, and then it was all reinstalled with new weatherstripping. There are a few other pieces of new weatherstripping on the doors, but great care was taken to ensure that if it was original and usable, it stayed on the car. It still has all its original lamps and housings and still runs Lucas headlights. The black leather interior is equally well-preserved. Those of you with sharp eyes will spot that the driver's lower seat cushion has been replaced, but only because the original was a little dry. It is included with the car and is currently sealed in a plastic bag and has been treated with leather conditioner to restore it, and it could be reinstalled and will look just fine after another treatment or two. The carpets, door panels, and dash are all original, all the Smiths gauges are fully functional, the Philco AM/FM radio works, heck, even the clock works! The steering wheel is a reproduction Moto-Lita unit (they were the OEM manufacturer) but the original wheel is included--it was removed simply to keep it from breaking because the originals were a lot flimsier than the repros. The top was replaced in 1990 with a very correct replacement piece, but the boot is original. The original jack and hammer are included in the trunk (Series II E-Types did not get full tool sets). The 4.2 liter DOHC inline-six purrs to life thanks to a comprehensive service by the best mechanic in the area. The carburetors are original, the gas tank was flushed and cleaned, the fuel pump was renewed, and the suspension was checked and the tie rod gaiters were replaced. The car still uses ultra-rare OEM brake rotors, fan motor shields, spark plug wires, carb inlet fittings and seals, etc. All the fluids were replaced and it does have a new foam seal around the radiator. The muffler was replaced at some point, but the rest of the exhaust system is original and in excellent condition. The chrome wires and Pirelli tires are brand new, but the original Dunlop tires and wire wheels are included with the car and could still be used for show, as they have about 50% tread remaining. Don't drive on them, though. Two Jaguar experts have reviewed this car since the work was completed and each said they've never seen one this well preserved. There are details on this car that no restoration could possibly duplicate and parts that are completely unobtainable today. It starts easily, runs beautifully, and will have one more shake-down test-and-tune before it is handed over to the new owner. It includes a Heritage Certificate that verifies the features and the fact that it is numbers-matching throughout. The car is titled as a 1970 because that's when it was sold, but the Heritage Certificate proves that it's a '69. Given the way Jaguars are appreciating today (that XK140 OTS we had two months ago sold in 3 hours on eBay for full asking price), this one is going to be expensive. However, I believe that this is an A-list collectable and one of the finest available anywhere for those who appreciate authenticity, and as a result, I think whatever you pay today will seem like a bargain in 3-5 years. I know I'm breaking the rules, but if you're seriously interested, call me and we'll discuss the price. Thanks for reading!

You guys know I love untouched original cars, and this incredible E-Type is one of the most accurately preserved E-Types I've ever seen. I can't quite call it a "survivor" because it was repainted about 20 years ago, but beyond that, the list of parts that have been replaced can be counted on one hand. Heck, it still has the original hoses, the original fan belt is in the trunk, original spark plug wires, and even the original tires still on the original wheels! It has been recently and comprehensively serviced, so it's ready to drive or show at any level, although if you're going to drive it a lot, I might recommend replacing some of the original hoses and setting them aside. It does have brand new Pirelli radials and new chrome wire wheels, so that's handled, and the original Cosmoline-protected spare is still in the trunk, completely untouched since 1969. The mileage of 20,724 is correct. The guys who did the repaint were at least careful to respect the original look, so it's single-stage paint with a soft shine that doesn't look too far off the original Sable Brown lacquer. This is a life-long California car (sold new in San Diego) that came to Ohio eight years ago, but the California sun must have faded the paint enough to justify the repaint. However, the finish in the jams, under the hood, and on the chassis is original and you can see that it just wouldn't have measured up on a car of this quality. All the chrome except the grille bar is original (original piece included with car) and was pulled off the car, the back sides were cleaned and protected, and then it was all reinstalled with new weatherstripping. There are a few other pieces of new weatherstripping on the doors, but great care was taken to ensure that if it was original and usable, it stayed on the car. It still has all its original lamps and housings and still runs Lucas headlights. The black leather interior is equally well-preserved. Those of you with sharp eyes will spot that the driver's lower seat cushion has been replaced, but only because the original was a little dry. It is included with the car and is currently sealed in a plastic bag and has been treated with leather conditioner to restore it, and it could be reinstalled and will look just fine after another treatment or two. The carpets, door panels, and dash are all original, all the Smiths gauges are fully functional, the Philco AM/FM radio works, heck, even the clock works! The steering wheel is a reproduction Moto-Lita unit (they were the OEM manufacturer) but the original wheel is included--it was removed simply to keep it from breaking because the originals were a lot flimsier than the repros. The top was replaced in 1990 with a very correct replacement piece, but the boot is original. The original jack and hammer are included in the trunk (Series II E-Types did not get full tool sets). The 4.2 liter DOHC inline-six purrs to life thanks to a comprehensive service by the best mechanic in the area. The carburetors are original, the gas tank was flushed and cleaned, the fuel pump was renewed, and the suspension was checked and the tie rod gaiters were replaced. The car still uses ultra-rare OEM brake rotors, fan motor shields, spark plug wires, carb inlet fittings and seals, etc. All the fluids were replaced and it does have a new foam seal around the radiator. The muffler was replaced at some point, but the rest of the exhaust system is original and in excellent condition. The chrome wires and Pirelli tires are brand new, but the original Dunlop tires and wire wheels are included with the car and could still be used for show, as they have about 50% tread remaining. Don't drive on them, though. Two Jaguar experts have reviewed this car since the work was completed and each said they've never seen one this well preserved. There are details on this car that no restoration could possibly duplicate and parts that are completely unobtainable today. It starts easily, runs beautifully, and will have one more shake-down test-and-tune before it is handed over to the new owner. It includes a Heritage Certificate that verifies the features and the fact that it is numbers-matching throughout. The car is titled as a 1970 because that's when it was sold, but the Heritage Certificate proves that it's a '69. Given the way Jaguars are appreciating today (that XK140 OTS we had two months ago sold in 3 hours on eBay for full asking price), this one is going to be expensive. However, I believe that this is an A-list collectable and one of the finest available anywhere for those who appreciate authenticity, and as a result, I think whatever you pay today will seem like a bargain in 3-5 years. I know I'm breaking the rules, but if you're seriously interested, call me and we'll discuss the price. Thanks for reading!

I figured I was the only one who noticed all the sub-standard work on that '41 Buick simply because I have one. There were so many things wrong on that car and they kept calling it a show car that I was puzzled. Did they just not know any better and figure that shiny was good? Did they cut corners to meet a budget? Did the TV schedule have some influence on it? I was especially astounded by how difficult they made it seem to find a small-series Buick 248 straight-8, as if it was unobtainium rather than something built for more than a decade. Even the dual carb setup, which was apparently what they were looking for, is a relatively easy thing to find on eBay. Big series? Not so much. Anyway, I, too, was surprised that the guy spent more than $60,000 and got a car that wouldn't even get 3rd place at a Buick Club meet.

In all fairness, you're not really comparing apples to apples there. An early Mustang and a late Z-car are two ends of a very wide desirability scale. An early 240Z just sold at auction for a bit over $70,000, and they've been hitting $40,000 with increasing regularity, but as with Mustangs, it all depends on the car. An early 240Z is (no offense intended) a lot more desirable than a '78 280Z, and therefore more valuable and more apt to find an enthusiastic audience. Compare a base 1970 Mustang and a base 1970 240Z and I think you'll see that the Datsun might be more valuable. Heck, compare your car with a 1978 Mustang and see which one has a stronger audience--I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. Sure, early Mustangs with the big engines get a lot more attention, but the Z-cars are finally getting some respect from serious collectors. In fact, many Japanese cars are finding enthusiastic young owners with disposable income, driving prices up. It's not that there's automotive racism, it's just that cars that are undesirable tend to remain undesirable, while desirable cars will appreciate. It's always worked that way and collectors don't care where the cars come from if they're cool. Nobody hates your car because of what it is, it's just that the early 240Zs are the ones collectors want to own, not the later cars with smog-choked motors, heavier bodywork, softer suspensions, etc. It's the same reason that the Series I E-Type Jaguars are more valuable than the later Series III V12s, despite being ostensibly the same car underneath.

I saw that last 15 minutes or so and was wondering, "What the heck is this?!?" I didn't see any apparent danger, and I'm not sure that big cities in Argentina are full of people who will kill you for a unique old car or hot rod, but that one bodyguard dude made it sound like they were Marines driving through downtown Tehran in convertibles. Then when the bodyguard said he bought an MGB and wanted to take it home with the other cars and they said no, he got all huffy and took off. Yeah, an MGB from Argentina is a gold mine, because you can only buy those, oh, EVERYWHERE, for $8500. He didn't seem to understand that a 40-foot container would hold two cars. Three cars don't fit, even little cars. They couldn't just "throw it in there," they'd have to book another container, which certainly isn't cheap. Then they said they found a '50s Eldorado convertible worth "in the $300,000 range." That's when I turned the channel.

My mechanic has a sign on his wall: Labor: $50/hour if I do the work $75/hour if you tell me how to do it $100/hour if you help

Cadillac never made a straight-8. LaSalles used one later, but I think it was Oldsmobile-derived. I'm sure someone will recognize the water tube on the top and figure it out, though.

And with the shiny bling-bling wheels.

As I've said, I'm not really a muscle car guy, but these awesome Mopars keep showing up in our showroom, each better than the last. The latest is this bright blue 1970 Challenger R/T convertible. It's got just 59,000 or so original miles and a numbers-matching 383 cubic inch V8. It is mostly original save for a repaint a few years ago, a detailed engine compartment, and what I have to believe is a newer convertible top, but otherwise is very nicely maintained, not totally restored. The paint is two-stage urethane, so it's a lot shinier than the original enamel and the white bumblebee stripe on the tail is buried under the clear for a smooth look and feel. The fender tag says that the bumblebee stripe was originally black, but that doesn't make much sense with the white interior and blue bodywork, but I guess it's possible. Panel fit is just the way the factory did it, as the car was not blown apart for the repaint and there's original B5 Blue paint in some of the more remote areas. Excellent chrome and stainless, all of which appears original, but the emblems are so bright and crisp that I'm guessing they've been replaced. The white bucket seat interior is completely original, including the seat covers, door panels, and carpets, and it's really remarkably well preserved. It's only a little discolored, which is inevitable over time, but the seats are still firm and supportive and the back seat looks completely untouched. It has a full set of Rallye gauges in the woodgrained dash, but the tach is not working because of a modern distributor. The factory Music Master AM radio is still in the dash, the Slap Stick shifter moves through the gears easily, and the power top folds easily without any wrestling to latch it. I'm impressed by how well-designed Chrysler convertible tops are, as this one drops completely below the body line where it vanishes under a white boot. The trunk is rust-free, featuring original floors and quarters, as well as a new mat and complete jack assembly. There is no spare, but the car does come with a complete second set of 18-inch Boyd Coddington wheels, if you're into bling. I have personally verified that the 383 cubic inch engine is the original, numbers-matching piece and it runs superbly. The owner believes it has been rebuilt, and he's only driven it about 5000 miles in the 10 years that he's owned it, so it's still quite fresh. It certainly runs well, starting almost instantly, idling without a fuss even when it's cold, and the smooth torque of the big block is hard to resist. The engine bay is correctly detailed with proper engine paint, hoses and clamps, and a Magnum air cleaner and except for the modern MSD billet aluminum distributor, it's quite stock. Underneath, it's totally original so it's a bit crusty, but there's no critical rust beyond some surface scale on the cast iron parts. A new Flowmaster dual exhaust system was installed two summers ago and it gives the car a pretty nasty bark that seems to suit its personality. It's a little loud, but this is not a car that you're going to be sneaking around in, anyway. A super clean, ready to enjoy Challenger R/T convertible with a good pedigree. A few years ago, these were $90,000 cars, but they've cooled quite a bit since then. We're asking $64,900 which is competitive with, say, a 1969 Camaro SS396 convertible, and I think I like the Challenger's look a little better. And we're always open to reasonable offers. Thank you for looking!

The GNX is a special animal indeed. More boost, more aggressive engine controls, and even more upgrades to the suspension. If you can find a GNX, expect to pay 3-5 times more for it than a garden-variety GN. Most have very low miles as EVERYONE realized that they were going to be special, and only a relative handful were built. These turbo Buicks are still legendary. I have a 1993 Mustang with a rather stout 5.0 stroker motor in it that I bought new and built for road racing when I was working at a major Corvette tuner in the mid-90s. My Mustang dynoed at 306 horsepower at the rear wheels (maybe 360-375 at the crank) and about 330 pounds of torque. Not stellar numbers today, but enough to push it into the 12s on street tires and make C5 Corvette and Viper drivers wonder what the hell I had under the hood when I would stuff that Mustang up their tailpipes on road courses (which is, of course, what the car was built to do). At any rate, my Mustang is a pretty fast car. And I STILL won't mess with a big, bad, blown, black Buick on the street. You're a computer chip away from a solid 300 horsepower and a few minor upgrades away from 400. These cars have HUGE untapped performance potential and the GNX only scratched the surface. The only thing better might be the 1989 Trans Am Turbo pace cars, which featured this engine in a chassis that was 500 pounds lighter and actually designed to handle and stop. If you're of a certain age like I am, that was the greatest car GM [barely] built in the 80s.

I would take it back to T-Type status, too, which is far less common than the Grand National, and with low mileage, it's a great find. Was all that blackout trim standard with the T-Type? I know I've seen several with lots of chrome but never one all blacked out. I recall working at another dealership and a Regal T-Type came in that was loaded to the gills and dressed like your grandmother's car. Burgundy with tan leather, a padded opera roof, landau lights, lots of chrome, etc. The only giveaways that there was serious blasting powder under the hood was the bulge on the hood (with badges), dual exhaust, and the GN-style alloy wheels (which apparently came with the turbo motor). One of the coolest cars I've ever seen. I would have put a set of widened steel wheels with wire hubcaps on it and gone hunting Corvettes with Grandma's Buick. It was AWESOME. This is a cool car. Don't be discouraged that it isn't a GN, put it back the way it should be and enjoy it. You'll have the only one at shows and instead of everyone walking past saying, "Oh, look, another Grand National," they'll be saying, "Wow, what the heck is that?" Interesting is far better than generic and the herd isn't always right about what's cool and what isn't.

I'm sure the Corvette collectors are assuming that this is a smart investment, but it's been proven time and time again that stashing a new car away and hoping that it appreciates in the future is a money-losing proposition in 99.9% of the cases. There are dozens, if not hundreds, of 1978 Corvette Pace Cars and "Collectors' Editions" on the market, all for around $25,000, which, in inflation-adjusted dollars, is less than they sold for new. Yet they all carry 30 years' worth of insurance, maintenance (or not), and storage costs. Stuffing them in trailers is cheap enough I suppose, and they probably don't figure to need insurance, but if they're smart millionaires, they'd also be looking at how realistic a proposition it is to turn those cars into money someday. A complete collection of low-mileage 'Vettes is kind of interesting, but I know of at least two such collections that have complete sets of all Corvette years and multiple models, and unless they expect to sell the whole pack of cars to one guy at one time who figures there's some kind of upside for having a complete set, well, they're just going to end up selling used cars that need restorations one at a time to buyers who are savvy about pricing. On the other hand, the Lambrecht Auction proved that there are plenty of people out there who will pay a substantial premium for a ruined car that's been sitting in a field for decades with 0 miles on the clock. Maybe your millionaire friends are on the supply side of the "barn find" phenomenon? Step 1: Take a nice car and stuff it in a trailer for a few decades. Let it rot, the rattier, the better. Step 2: Concoct a story about reclusive millionaires and secret late-night trailer loading, just to tantalize the imaginations of car guys. Step 3: Profit!

Guys, you're scaring him. 30 minutes of dry salt exposure on the back of a truck isn't going to do any damage to his car. Call a local towing service for a flatbed rollback truck. I wouldn't even bother with the tarps and covers, although I guess they can't hurt. It might get a little dusty, but there are no parts on a 1970 Lincoln that will be irreparably harmed by a little salt dust. It's not live acid, it's just dust and if it's not wet, it's inert when it touches metal. Water is the catalyst for salt causing rust, and any metal can withstand dry salt dust for a half hour with no ill effects. You're acting like driving on dry winter roads is like going through a sand storm in the Sahara Desert or something. All the cars damaged by salt are those driven in it long-term, with wet salt water spraying off the tires and into all the nooks and crannies. If the car isn't already rusty, a light dusting from riding on the back of a truck isn't going to accelerate the process to any appreciable degree. Yes, long-term exposure to wet salt will have a negative impact, but a little dry salt dust, even if it gets into all the nooks and crannies, isn't going to cause the car to become a rust-bucket overnight. I drove my 1929 Cadillac home on Christmas Eve to have it in our local Christmas parade--in CLEVELAND! GASP! Nevertheless, it's still beautiful, still shiny, still rust-free. It didn't fall apart. I don't expect it to start rusting next summer when I wash it with water. Don't over-think it, particularly for such a short trip. Call a roll-back and get it done in 30 minutes for $125.

It'll be an extra charge to have someone else set it up for you. I just paid the $600 or so to have them do it for time reasons. It took one guy the better part of a full day to set it up, and he'd done it before. Some of the pieces, primarily the rails on which the car rolls, were quite heavy and he used a crane on his truck to unload them, put them on dollies, and maneuver them into position. Other designs might be more user-friendly and easier to set up yourself. I don't think it's that hard and if you're reasonably competent and have a few guys who can help you move the heavy parts, I bet you could handle it. One other thought I had was to check the thickness of your garage floor. Some recently built residential houses only need 4 inches of pad thickness and a lift with a heavy car on it might crack or damage such a thin floor. Since your space is a dedicated hobby garage, I bet they did a 6-inch or thicker pad, which should be OK.

Mine is not bolted to the floor and actually came with casters that can be installed. The system is rather clever and involves lowering the lift down on them and it lifts the posts. It's quite stable without being bolted down with the posts at the outer corners of the rectangle. And to be honest, if you have a 6000 pound car 5 feet in the air and it starts to tip, a pair of bolts in the concrete isn't going to stop it from coming down. It can't hurt, but given that mine was designed to be moved I don't worry about it.

Having purchased several lifts and worked in shops with lifts, I can say with confidence that you always get what you pay for. Cheap lifts have an inexpensive buy-in, but will probably kill their motors faster and depending on the design, may not be safe for bigger cars. I had a client with a spectacular collection of '30s Full Classics, and he was short on space so he bought a bunch of inexpensive Chinese lifts to stack them. He had a Marmon Sixteen on one of them and it started to bend, locking the mechanism and leaving the half-million dollar car teetering. It took two tow trucks and about a half-dozen jacks of various sizes to get the Marmon down safely. The lifts were in the trash the next day. I recently bought a Bend-Pak lift for my shop. I bought a slightly larger and heavier-duty model (rated to 9500 pounds) so it would handle larger vehicles like Dodge Power Wagons and my 1929 Cadillac. I bought the 220V motor for longevity and the extended ramps so low cars can easily get on it. Aside from an initial problem with the catches not releasing due to too many springs on the pneumatic lock cylinders (some European requirement), it has been just fine and doesn't even blink with heavy stuff on it. Spend a little more and get a quality domestically-built lift, not some Chinese bargain-basement piece. Remember you're going to have expensive cars on it and you're going to be working under it. Don't take a chance that "hopefully it won't happen to me." The moment one of those posts starts to bend or move out of position, you're going to wish you'd spent a little more.

I've never found raising the price on a car to be an effective sales tool. You should probably delete your old for sale ads on this site that show this car with a lower price back in July...

There is no more expensive car to own than a cheap Mercedes-Benz (or Rolls-Royce). Be not tempted by the low cost of entry on a car you would not otherwise be able to afford. If you can't afford a good one, you definitely can't afford to restore one.

This whole "matching numbers" thing has gotten way out of hand. It started when the muscle cars became collector cars instead of disposable beaters. It was a way to separate real muscle cars from easily cloned versions, and a premium was assigned to cars that were well-preserved and not abused, which was often indicated by the presence of original running gear. The Corvette guys took it to a whole new level with date codes on every engine component, and now buyers of just about any car expect "matching numbers" to mean something. As a matter of fact, early Mustangs and even Shelbys are impossible to authenticate as "matching numbers" yet I see them advertised that way all the time. I have guys asking me if the $20,000 1954 Mercury I just sold had "matching numbers." Really? I get the impression that rookies ask about it when they're not sure what else to ask, and I blame auction TV for this, because it makes people think that you must buy a car with matching numbers or else it's going to be worthless. Personally, I'd rather pay less for a non-matching car and drive the hell out of it--why worry about blowing up 20-30% of your car's value if something goes wrong in the engine? All that said, I'm firmly of the opinion that unless you're talking about an easily cloned muscle car or something with substantial monetary value, matching numbers is irrelevant and adds zero value to something like the 1947 Ford we're discussing here. If it has a correct motor that's from the right period, then it should make no difference in value. I think the better question (and the one I think you're really trying to ask) is, "Is the car more valuable in original form or if I modify it?" And in that regard, there is no answer. These are nice cars when restored, but even the best will be hard-pressed to break $30,000 or so (I sold a pretty nice one a few months ago for $20,000). A well-built hot rod might go for more, but it all depends on who is doing the building. Throwing in a small block Chevy and a 9-inch rear does not automatically add value; at that point the quality and the builder's reputation play a factor. If you've acquired this car at a good price, you could probably finish the restoration and sell it in the mid-$20. Or you could build a hot rod, but then you're investing a lot of time in re-doing work that's already done, and you have to hope that your potential future buyer has the same taste you do. I think the hot rod route will ultimately be far more expensive, too. However, if you're keeping the car, who cares? Do what you want and have fun with it and let the future take care of itself. Just have fun!