KAD36

Thanks for the quick response guys - Mike I did just as you said. Got some small stainless washers down at the parts store. This pump is about 12 years old - I got it rebuilt on exchange from a well advertised Buick parts supplier. I have replaced all the guts once myself a few years back (thanks Willie for that bent nail trick) - there were never any lockwashers and I didn't think to add any - this is how it came. Long story short, I made a new gasket from some rubber/fiber material (one of my better creations actually), re-assembled dry, and hit the electric pump. No joy. It seeped a fine ribbon of fuel out the back. Humpf. When in doubt, use two. Made a second, stacked em up, and being experienced and skilled at cracking 50 year old cast parts and stripping fine pitch threads, took it as snug as I dared starting with the 2 center and cross tightening the perimeter then back to the center. Ran the electric ump for a few minutes with the engine off and it held. Its been idling in the garage for about 30 min with the pump on and looks good. Willie - you got me wondering if that pump housing is off true. I have wondered about this pump since I got it - especially if that boss in the center was true so there isn't any leakage from the suction chamber to the pressure chamber. BTW - is that Permatex anaerobic sealer fuel tolerant? I hesitated using any sealer this time. Well, better fixed now than on the way to Indiana. Odd how it just "went". Jeese. Gotta sit down and have a talk with that car...:cool:

Update - the six cover screws have no freakin lockwashers. Should they? I don't want to strip the housing.

Took the Buick out today for a short trip - its been out a few time this year, and its been run in the garage also. It was about 70 out here, and a few miles down the road the engine started surging - kind of like a vapor lock symptom on a hot day. I hit the electric pump and it went away. Turned the pump back off - and shortly thereafter the problem came back. Turned pump back on. Hmmm - not typical, dont see vapor lock unless its like 85-90 out, turned and headed for home. About a mile from the house, picked up a faint smell of gas. Got the car home, popped the hood, and saw water pouring through the front of the radiator. Water? Coolant leak too? No way, that was gas. Jeepers cats - shut everything down. Don't do anything to make a spark. Gas had been shooting from between the top of the housing and the top cover. It was probably dribbling when the electric pump was off, and flowing freely all over the radiator when the pump was on. This is the second time this has happened. The first time, upon removing the top cover, it looked like the cover gasket had shifted and gas leaked out. I had taken the cover off back then, ran it over a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface to make sure the cover was perfectly flat - which at that time it was not. The gasket is rubber and was in good shape - pliable - no rips or tears. Applied some fuel tolerant sealant and glued the gasket to the cover, put it all back together, torqued all the screws evenly in a pattern. That was about 2 years and 1500 miles ago. And here we are again. This time, the gasket was still in place, and I am not sure what went wrong. I reran the cover over a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and noticed there was a new "low spot". Hmmm - thought we took care of that last time. Ran a few more strokes until it was flat, the gasket looks good, still pliable with an indentation showing where it sealed to the housing - and have just resealed it to the cover. Its drying now. Any advice before I bolt it back to the pump housing? This is supposed to be simple like dirt. What do you torque the cover screws to (I have the early fuel pump with 6 screws on the cover vs the dome with 1 screw in the middle). Am positive there are lockwashers on there. Am I missing something subtle? Perhaps for a fail safe, one could install a pressure switch downstream of the pump that would prevent the electric pump from turning on if the line could not hold pressure, that might complicate things though when the pump is used to prime the system after the car has sat for awhile unless a bypass switch of some sort was added. Lesson learned - if your car acts up with what seems like a fuel delivery problem during a time when there shouldn't be one, think twice before hitting that electric pump switch to rescue yourself. Pay attention and KNOW YOUR CAR. If something seems odd, pull over and check the pump and line integrity first. And carry a fire extinguisher. Boy oh boy if that leak were spraying into the generator or the hot manifold - poof! - you guys could have a field day buyin tasty crispy fried 55 buick parts on eBay.

Looks great Paul! Goin in style!

Bob - thank you so much for taking the time to write and post your story. There is a wealth of knowledge here in 1 spot, and your ingenuity and tenacity in this endeavor is downright impressive and inspirational. Thanks again!

Hey Jim It was 45 out today so braved the warm upstate weather and fired up the Buick for a little bit. Heres some of the trunk junk from 50+ years ago that we found in the car...and thats just part of what filled up the trunk on travel back then. The campbell tire chains are in my shed, still in the box. Box like new, chains worn to a nub. No more battery - guess I should have kept it. It was a beat up Delco battery with the yellow caps. The lantern still works!! See what I mean about them jumper cables? Bzzzt! So, the basic sequence of events in time of breakdown is you give yourself a hernia lifting a 90 lb tool box from the package shelf in the trunk and hauling it to the front of the car, top the car off with gas, and since we all pour gas as accurately as we pour beer, who needs a funnel, and then try to jump start it. *Poof* Then you could huddle under the blanket with your flashlight and sore back until help arrived and try to explain what happened. With that vision in mind, the can was unceremoniously removed from the trunk and today serves permanent lawn mower duty.

My grandfather left belts, radiator hoses, jumper cables (with fabric insulation), a folding army shovel, a wool blanket (also us army), a big red steel toolbox packed full of tools, a 6v lantern, spare battery, and a 5 gallon gas can in the trunk. He also had tire chains and a paint can full of cinders for winter. There was no room for luggage when they travelled. Anything could be fixed real time. My parents said it was an adventure, especially if a ground hog or a buck was spotted in a field while driving. He eventually added Air Lifts to the rear springs so it didn't bottom out. They were still there and intact when the car was pulled out of the shed. The lantern, shovel, cables and blanket are still in the trunk. The toolbox was like 100 lbs and its outta there. The cables would probably explode if used, they are just for show. They look like what Doc Brown used to connect to the clock tower in Back to the Future..

Indeed Rob. Chipping away at it over a long enough period and you get to re-restore things you did 20 yrs ago so it comes apart easier the second time and you make less mistakes. That's my story and I'm stickin to it

Thanks Willie - going through your chronology on your website recalibrated me. I've been procrastinating fixing bubbly rust and a rotty rocker panels and dogleg almost as bad as procrastinating on the dynaflow. My budget allows me to do some weld patching and touch up until both kids get done charging me for college then can do it right. All the folks restoring mid-fifties Buicks are inspiring and the work, craftsmanship and common sense to repairs and improvements just impressive. Look for me to be bringing up the rear. Mike - Rereading your post end to end and going through my pics from charlotte of your ac install was a good shot in the arm. Decisions decisions of what "little" project to start next (I want to add AC too and absolutely hate sanding). John - who are the folks upstate you would trust I could call and talk with for a bit? Reading all the various auto body and paint web sites gave me analysis paralysis. Plus i think too much. You can pm if you'd like. Thanks guys

Thanks for the info Willie. I didn't know you could still get that stuff. When we painted my car (back in 83), we sanded it down but not to bare metal, and used some sealer/primer product over the paint - can't remember what it was but at the time my cousin said the car body was very solid and we couldn't beat the factory baked on primer so left it on. We also used a single stage acrylic enamel - it had the right kind of gloss to it like the original lacquer, it was easy to apply, wet sanded well and cost effective and it has held up pretty well in service, although it is kind of checking like mad now on the roof but after 29 years it owes me nothing. While "touching up" the car over time, I've kept with the acrylic enamel for those reasons. Not meaning to hijack Mikes thread, but being a neophyte on new primers these days and heading into my own bodywork project - was planning to stick with the same paint, go to bare metal, and was wondering about what to use and the order to apply it in - an epoxy primer, an etching primer, etc. ?? Prime all the metal, prime with etching primer, then fill, then reprime? Fill over bare metal then prime with epoxy primer, then prime with a filler primer and sand then wash all the dust off it? What works best? Have found numerous articles on this on other sites and it seems like its all over the freakin map. Frustrating. I can get through metalwork, welding in a patch panel and grinding it smooth, and using products from the same manufacturer for compatibility, but what to do, what to use for primer and filler, and in what order after the grinding is done up to shooting the first coat of base seems like a plethora of options and opinions. I'm looking for a simple effective way to get from a to b that lasts. Or I'll make the bodywork right and shoot it with something. Literally. I'll repost this elsewhere if this doesn't fit the thread. Boy Mike is doing a nice job on your 55. Sorry to hear about the tar baby - what a freak event. Bet that sent you "high order".

Great find - pre-56 units the shaft cannot be separated without disassembly of the unit and I wouldn't recommend it as Bhigdog indicated. Shipping my 55 unit from Binghamton NY to St Louis, for reference, cost me almost 100 bucks UPS - that was the gear and pump, and I had to build a wooden crate and clamp it down in there. Hopefully my situation was worse case learning experience and you can do better. Good luck!

Looks great Mike. What kind of primer did you use, and how many coats?

Hey Brian - just curious - did you try cranking the adjuster all the way out tight, and with the drums on step on the brake to try to seat the shoes first, then back off I think 7-10 clicks? And it still hits? Top curve of the shoe is fully seated on the anchor pin? Both driver and passenger shoes are the same? Big shoe in back on both sides? Establish a little drag on all of them, hit the pedal a few times, then starting on the front, adjust tight, then back off until just scraping as Chris said. What I do is count the clicks on one of the fronts from full tight to when it can free spin about 1 revolution by eyeball, then set all the wheels to that as a starting point. Adjust +/- a little from there until they all feel the same. Then they wear in on their own. If a drum is cut too big, the center of the shoe hits vs the whole shoe - takes a while for that to wear in. If just the top is hitting and everything else is equal seems like it wants to seat correctly.

Jim - that would work too - double check that area on the road draft tube you're eyeballing has enough meat and is contoured to to hold a grommet or a few threads before you lay into it. Thanks for the feedback guys.

If your engine is worn and you are interested in eliminating some of the oily blow by from the crankcase breather from getting all over your engine compartment, a PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system can be built and added for about 20 bucks. I thought it was worth a try, built a prototype to test out, and am pretty happy with the results. Trying a few different valves, I found one that pulled enough vacuum to stop the blowby gasses from coming out the breather at idle and at moderate load. See what you think, and if you have ideas to further improve or comment on the design, please contribute. A PCV system is comprised of 4 basic components: 1) a breather, to let fresh air into the system, 2) a PCV valve that meters engine vacuum to pull the fresh air through the engine and evacuate the blowby and other crankcase gasses, 3) hosing/grommets to plumb the system from breather, to crankcase, PCV valve, and vacuum source, and 4) a vacuum source, usually at the intake manifold or a non-metered vacuum source at the base of the carb. The breather is connected to one end of the valley cover or one of the valve covers in a V engine, the opposite end of the valley cover or the opposite valve cover is connected to the valve side of the PCV valve (usually the larger diameter side of the valve), and the other end of the PCV valve is connected to an engine vacuum source. At idle, when engine vacuum is high, the vacuum pulls a piston inside the PCV valve against a spring and seats the piston such that a very small amount of metered vacuum is pulled through the valve. For a properly sized valve, this vacuum should be enough to evacuate the crankcase of blowby vapors, which are typically low at idle, and low enough as to not adversly upset the idle circuit and performance. Since the vacuum loss at idle through the valve leans out the mixture, it must be compensated for by richening the idle mixture screws anywhere from ¼ to 1/3 turn CCW. Under load, blowby gasses increase, and as vacuum drops with engine load, the spring inside the PCV valve unseats the piston, opening the valve further, allowing more vacuum through the valve, and thus enabling greater evacuation of crankcase vapors. Under conditions of extreme load or worn engine components, the PCV system may not be able to keep up with the generation of crankcase vapors, and in this case the vapors will escape out of the breather. Under load and high rpm conditions, the vacuum flow pulled through the valve is negligible compared to that passing though the carb, and you should notice no difference in engine performance. A PCV system can be either open or closed. An open system, which first came out in the early 60s, used an open air breather feeding a PCV valve plumbed into the intake manifold or carb base to mix and burn the crankcase vapors with the incoming fuel charge. If the PCV system could not keep up with crankcase vapors, the vapors would spill out the breather into the atmosphere. In a closed system, the breather is moved into the air cleaner, or some other location such that any escaping gas would be reintroduced to the engine for combustion either through the air cleaner or intake manifold. Some of us may remember GM cars of the 70s-80s that had the little foam breather in the air cleaner. There ya go. My prototype system is an open type, the parts list is below and ran about 22 bucks at my local parts store. Oil Filler/Breather cap – Stant #10070 (this is a sealed cap with a fitting on it for a PCV hose) PCV rubber elbow – Dorman Help #47028 PCV Valve - PV679 Purolator 11/32 pcv hose - Thermold Various brass plumbing - 1/8” pipe T, 5/16” x 1/8” hose barb, 1/8” adapter When at idle crankcase vapors kind of drift out from both the filler cap and the road draft tube (at least on my car); there is little to no positive ventilation. At speed, the venturi effect of the road draft tube creates vacuum which pulls clean air in through the filler cap and pulls out crankcase vapors from the road draft tube. In my PCV system, the flow is reversed. Air enters the road draft tube, passes through the valley area, out the filler tube and cap, through a fitting in the cap to the pcv valve, and then into the intake manifold at the vacuum source for the wipers. I chose this for 3 reasons – first it was quick, low cost and effective, and second, it eliminated any crankcase vapors from coming out of the oil filler and blowing back on the engine, and third, I could disconnect the whole thing in a minute, plug the vacuum source and put the OEM filler cap back on. The PCV valve chosen is for a 350 V8 engine – I tried one with a smaller port and it did not draw enough vacuum to properly evacuate the engine. Perhaps a tight engine with less blow by could tolerate a lower vacuum valve. Pictures below: So hows it work? Well, so far, so good! Both at idle and with the engine at about 2000 rpm in Drive held against the brakes, wheels blocked, there were no traces of any crankcase vapors coming out of either the road draft tube or the breather. Prior there was a visible amount (I used to keep an old sock over the filler cap to filter off some of the oil vapor). Backing out the mixture screws ¼ to 1/3 turn smoothed the idle right back out at 475 rpms in Drive. No issues seen under load when driving. For a basic system, it works well and I'm pleased with the results. Plus the engine can go back to a stock look easily. No fumes out the back or under the hood or in the passenger compartment. Moisture and other corrosive gasses are pulled out of the engine effectively at idle and at speed, and reburned. Makes for less emissions. Let me in fairness point out that there are only about 100 miles of testing on it so far - I don't plan to rejet the carb or anything and am not sure how necessary that is - maybe someone with more knowledge can chime in. If anything goes amiss, I'll give an update. To improve upon the design, the vacuum source should be in the center of the manifold so that all cylinders are equally “diluted” from the introduction of crankcase vapors. Using the current vac port on a 55 intake manifold that goes to the fuel pump for the wipers favors leaning out the front bank of cylinders. My thought was to drill and tap the underside of the manifold in the center, thus better hiding the port. A typical modification also is to retain the open breather at the filler neck, and remove the road draft tube. A freeze plug can be fit or epoxied onto the opening for the road draft tube, drilled and fit with a PCV valve grommet, and the valve placed in the valley pan vs the filler cap. I may go that way after running this setup for awhile. If you wanted a truly closed system, a sealed filler cap could be used and the breather and hose could be placed in the air cleaner, although one would have to be careful if using the oil bath cleaner and not have an issue drilling a hole in the side of the air cleaner (something I couldn’t do!). Another approach is to drill and insert the grommet and valve back of one of the valve covers, and drill the other for a breather (unless the valve cover already has one). Still another variation could replace the current 55 valley pan filler neck with one from 63-67 corvette, which had a pcv fitting plumbed directly onto the filler neck instead of the cap. You can find these on eBay for about 20 bucks. Also, while air is going "backwards" through the road draft tube, I don't think there is any fear of blowing gunk back in the engine - there is not enough pressure to do so. If you are concerned pull your valley pan and check it out. I had mine out about 2 summers ago and soaked it to get as much junk out as possible - although if you follow one of Old-Tanks threads, he outlines an innovative way to disassemble and clean the innards of the road draft tube mesh filter. Basically, you just need a source of intake air and a design that provides cross ventilation through the crankcase back to a centralized point on the intake. So, go out, pop that hood and have a peek... :cool:

Budd - my original windshield had the dark blue band along the top. E-Z-Eye code is also LOF within the shield, AS-2 NX under the word "plate" - same insignia as yours. All my glass has AS-2 NX on it, except the rear quarters have NUX. My car is an early 55, came out of the Wilmington DE Buick plant if thats of any value. Can you post what you decide on a windshield supplier - am interested in one that will put the "bug" on and have the right thickness glass. Adding the bug was not an issue when I replaced some of my side glass but one supplier told me he could not put it on a windshield. Currently I have a non-E-Z-Eye windshield in the car and plan to put the correct tinted one back in. Cracked the original one a long time ago while the car was on college duty. Nice job and thank you for keeping your site pictures up by the way - helped me out.

Heres one of the "lineup"

Dave - interested to hear how you make out. My NOS parts were purchased at Carlisle, Hershey, eBay, or occasionally I would see something NOS on line at a vendor. I was also lucky enough many years ago to find a wrecked 30,000 mile Roadmaster in a yard, bought the transmission and with the help of the yard man gutted it, and inspected the pieces in an afternoon, cleaned them and took them home. You can get an idea from FATSCO or Autotran of what is still out there based on what they list in stock - assuming they list all of their stock - or watch the CARS or Buick Farm NOS listings. Seals, soft parts, clutches, bands, sprags seem to still be available or findable. Oddball "hard parts" like stators, pinions, the variable pitch turbine assy etc seem to be more difficult to find, however an experienced vintage rebuilder probably has sources not available to us. I went into the first rebuild pretty clueless back in the 90s, I trusted a shop back then that today am certain did not properly know what he was doing and did not repair everything that was wrong with it. It is disappointing to trust a shop, drop a chunk of change, be told X when Y was done, and have lack of confidence in the result. There is just no way to tell. Why the Low band adjusting screw was bottomed all the way out and the band material gone and drums scored tells me he never replaced that band and never knew how to adjust it. Wrong valve body gaskets covering up 2 ports? Careless. I paid almost 1000 back then. I failed to ask enough questions, didn't understand how the transmission worked, didn't go see the old/new parts, had no referrals, didn't inspect the shop for cleanliness and organization - my lesson learned was these things are a must do when you are getting any unique, non typical significant work done on a vintage vehicle that you don't want to do yourself. Or - find a place that "does it for a living". Often. Don't trust "I used to work on them" as good enough. I should have brought it back to him after the first 100 miles when the oil looked to me like it had metal in it - it wasn't "band material" or "new parts breaking in" - it failed that quick. But my options then were limited and I figured I would drive it till it dropped. Well - it never let me down! After studying a shop manual, reading many posts and getting sound, proven advice from knowledgeable people on this forum who were willing to teach me, it was beginning to appear things weren't 100% and I made a list of those areas most likely needing attention, assuming metal had been circulating through the unit and it wasn't "band material" after all, and the thrust washer pieces were not carelessly left in the pan, but a new failure after the rebuild. You can make smart purchases on the likely parts needed at a good price when you are on your schedule vs having a car laid up in a shop. Guts from the used unit, for those oddball things like the stator assembly that may never show up again. Since the vanes had been smashed on opening the unit during the first rebuild, my worst case assumption was the first guy didn't know what he was doing and they would smash again. If it was slipping, my hunch was clutches and bands shot and hence any gripping surface probably scored and burned so picked up those parts. Found a new front pump and plate at a swap meet. Reverse ring gear on eBay. New shafts at a old dealership in PA near my grandmothers house. Brand new bands at Carlisle one year - they were unmarked, but I knew they were correct for the car. It was a fun journey. This time around I wanted a rebuilder who was willing to take the time to mic out and select fit everything and not just slap clutches and bands in during a rainy afternoon. I also wanted someone with ready access to a machine shop in case parts needed to be fabricated or milled. Generally, all the parts suspected bad were indeed bad and I had solid replacements ready for the "unobtainiums". The rear pump inoperative, wrong valve body gaskets, and this spring and roller kit were surprises. Rob - in my opinion, having those parts is only important if you suspect catastrophic damage. In my case, the metal in the oil and the inability of anyone to remember if the pan was cleaned out the first time were red flags. My advice - if the dipstick wipes dark grey or black on a white paper (even when the oil looks red), if it turns a dark maroon or black well before a scheduled change (20 - 25000) miles, or you have seen any metal pieces, shavings or thick layer of grey metallic muck in the bottom of your oil pan (check with a magnet - although the turbine and bushings are non metallic), you could have some damaged parts in the unit. Call and talk to a rebuilder and see what they think on parts. Otherwise, you should be just fine with whats readily available out there. Most important advice - trust your instincts. Some other advice - in the event a shop cannot get a part, will they let you work with them to find it? Ask your rebuilder if it is ok if the car is laid up in his shop for a month or so. Will he keep it inside locked up for you? Does he have enough floor and bench space to accommodate your unit if a long term parts hunt is in order? That was another lesson learned - I ended up paying a daily shop fee the first time because the car was "taking up space" after a "reasonable time"elapsed and other customers could not get their cars in - so he was loosing business on my account. Bonehead. I took the car for about a 30 mile trip today - its 35 deg out and there is still nothing like getting behind that big old red and chrome wheel, kicking both heaters on until the heat blasts you out of the seat, and motoring down the highway at 70 mph. One nice thing about cold weather driving - no bugs on the chrome!

Dexron III specificed - no specific brand mentioned.

Ed - reference question 2) used Coil Spring Specialties on my Buick and had the back raised about 3/4 of an inch and they came out dead on. Very happy with them. Relevant thread attached. Good luck http://forums.aaca.org/f162/coils-spring-source-1955-buick-special-223381.html

WD 40 and carb cleaner both would both give a change in RPMs and lead you to the leak more safely, especially by using the nozzle and pinpointing areas of common leaks vs a spray. Your advice makes sense and these products are simply safer. By atomizing an already highly flammable liquid in a spray bottle on a running engine, its hard to control where the vapors go and imagine if the fan blew the vapors back onto a bad plug or coil wire while you are spraying that near the carb. **Poof**. It would be like a scene from Wile-e-Coyote in an old Roadrunner cartoon...we don't want that!

That makes it easy - now I will know what to ask and check for.

Thanks for the compliment John - but its a tired 50 footer/50 mph paint job at best and they would look great together. I replaced my busted welder with an Eastwood 135 - its a nice little machine - and picked up some metalworking tools to teach myself bodywork - intend to make up some dog legs and rocker panel repair patches this winter and clean it up some. Have not tried anything this intricate before. When I'm done putting 2 kids through college may pursue a full up paint job - either a DIY or outsourced - I just enjoy driving and tinkering with it too much to take it off the road for very long. So, on the valve guides - Willie your point about the rubber seals jogged my memory - that was what the guy at the machine shop said who worked on the heads - that the valve guides had no rubber seals they were just metal inserts. He wasn't experienced in the older Buick engines. Now, that always seemed odd to me - don't you want to keep the oil out of the valve guides so it doesn't bleed into the cylinders (so you don't get that puff of blue smoke when the car starts in the morning)? Maybe the metal to metal clearance is just tight enough to allow some oil in for lubrication on the stems? It seems you and Dave are saying the same thing in principle - if you use original rocker arms, the oiling to the area is sparse and you don't need the rubber seals, if you have a newer nailhead or use replacement rocker arms that flood the area with more oil, presumably to correct for low oiling from the factory design, then you do need them - is that the guidance one would take when doing a rebuild? Maybe if the seals aren't used then more reverb would be expected in the manifold and it would show up on the gauge.

Hard core DIY'ers avoiding the expense of a rotisserie to detail the undercarriage.

Damaged parts Photo 1 - Contact damage from stator. At the center of the turbine, below the pinon gears, was where the broken thrust washer should have been. the center of the turbine by the pinons had deep wear grooves all through it. photo 2 - Shattered piston pieces missing. Compare to prior photo of replacement stator on bench pulled from low mileage unit prior to reassembly. There is a sealing ring that goes around this part, and when the piston in the high accumulator is actuated from the throttle linkage and ports fluid here, the pressure on the back side of this assembly is what moves the piston, rotates the crank pins, and hence the stator pitch. You can see one of the stator blades under the pencil misaligned from the others as it was loose on the crank pin - a couple of them were jammed misaligned like this, making for a rather inefficient torque converter. The piston and blades should move freely when assembled in the stator - mine did not. You can see some of the piston debris on the newspaper below. photo 3 - Disassembled stator with the broken piston - the jagged areas by my thumb should all be round, with a slot to set the piston ring in that seals against the cylinder to actuate the stator. photo 4 - Picture of a good friction and steel plate, compared side by side to what came out of the car. 3 of the 5 were worn and had no material left on them, all were discolored. This was the "better" of the remaining 2 friction plates that had some material left. picture 5 - Flip side of stator showing contact and 2 of 4 broken stator vanes. pictures 6&7 - Scored drum - compare to photo of resurfaced drum on bench prior to reassembly