Gene Brink

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here's some interesting stats for you. It took me 2.5hrs to swap out wheel cylinder on L-side and only 45 min on the R-side! Dohhh!! </div></div> Sounds like "practice makes perfect." When I was young and thought the gas pedal was supposed to pushed to the floor all of the time I got very proficient at changing out Dynaflows in my '54 Super. First one took me two days, by the time I did the last one (the 5th one!) it only took me two hours...)

July 10th. All GM Show Info

Paul, You pulled the correct wire to check for coil output. Dave is giving tons of good info - just take it slow and check step by step to narrow down the possibilities. You may well need a new coil but need to be certain you are getting current to your points (as well as the coil) as well as determine that the points are opening and closing (redressing the points as Dave points out is an excellent idea) in order to be certain the coil is not putting out. Pretty simple overall and you will certainly find your problem soon (and then you can start on something else...). Good luck

Paul, Several things to check. 1) Cable connections to insure you are getting proper voltage through the system (might be the cranking speed problem as well) 2) Pull the coil wire from the distributor and hold the end around 3/16" from a clean ground point on the engine and have someone crank the engine. Should get a nice spark jumping to ground. If so the coil is good (and probably both primary and secondary circuits). 3) Might be the distributor cap. Check for dirt, moisture, corrosion, cracks, etc 4) Possibly the spark plug wires/terminals are bad? 5) Only if you got no spark from coil test above connect a test lamp between the distributor primary lead and ground and crank the engine again. If the test light flickers on and off the primary circuit should be okay and the points are opening and closing (but the setting could be way off - either gap or timing). If the test light remains on the points are not closing properly or the ground inside the distributor is bad. Check gap setting and all electrical connections. If light remains off when engine is cranked the primary circuit is open or the points are not opening properly. Check points and connections again and if all is okay you probably need a new coil. 6) If all checks out your ignition timing or point gap is apt to be way out of spec so the car won't start. One last point about the cranking speed it has been many years since I had a 6 volt car but I do clearly remember that they crank considerably slower than 12 volt systems so don't be too concerned that the engine does not really crank over as fast as you are used to in newer cars. Good luck.

You've got it right, Brian. Check this out Hwy 50 History

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Now to get this baby unloaded without scratchin her up. </div></div> Be careful, Earl. It takes a long time to get them just the way you like 'em!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Gene, The 'suggestion' is that they affect or outright control the findings with their checkbook. There are already far, far too many conspiracy theorists out in the world already. Joe </div></div> Just one question, Joe. Is this a conspiracy theory?

Len, Camshaft bearing (front one that is) is a tricky little bugger as it has multiple (three if memory is correct) holes in it that allow oil from the main oil galley to both lubricate the camshaft bearing and ultimately both rocker assemblies. The holes are NOT equidistance apart so it has to be properly installed. Sadly it sounds as though only two of the three holes may be lined up (which would mean the bearing needs to be removed and put in after turning 180 degrees on a horizontal plane. Hope I am wrong and wish your friend the best of luck.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ah, there goes Dave again.</div></div> Huh What did Dave say, Joe? He is right, Toyota and GM will most certainly "fund" (by paying some $$ to use these results in advertising --- and why not?) JDP's research until they find themselves with lower rankings. Seems right on the button.

Ditto on the '61. It has been at the SGV show for 4 or 5 years now and is sharp! Thanks for posting - I took several shots as well but have not downloaded to the PC to do anything with them yet... Will (soon hopefully) and post if I have anything not already shown.

Bill, Good to hear that the fix was so "easy" (especially for all of us readers...). Was just thinking of you yesterday and almost sent an e-mail asking for an update. Enjoy the '47 when you get it back on the track!

Ditto to Keith's comment!

Ken, As the pedal pumps up I'd say you must have air in the lines someplace. Shop manual gives three possible causes for a "spongy" pedal. They are: 1) low fluid in master cylinder so air is sucked into system (this is probably not your problem); 2) clogged filler cap vent that permits air to be pulled past the piston secondary cup on the return stroke; 3) leaking check valve causing loss of static pressure in the system permitting air to be pulled into the system past a wheel cylinder. Fix by cleaning/replacing as needed. Bleed order is left front, right front, left rear, right rear. Good luck

59" both front and rear. Good luck.

Congratulations, Gary. Good luck as you proceed...

Gary, Assuming these are "dry" readings. Have you run "wet" yet and if so what are they? I'll go out on a limb and guess your problem is in the head and a valve job will probably be all you need (although I'd want to run a bit to see if things did not improve with a bit of use). I'm guessing that with one cylinder at 80# that the other bores should not be worn greatly either so may be in pretty good shape. A wet reading, if the cylinders/pistons/rings are fairly decent, should show little change (indicating air is still escaping past the valves [could even be a head gasket as 3 & 4 are next to each other]). If pressure jumps a bunch on any given cylinder that cylinder will have excessive wear (or even a cracked piston).

Thanks, Crin. Should be both fun and helpful!

Silly of me to have left out adjustment notes. Per the '55 manual try: To regulate the clock for more accurate timekeeping, place small screwdriver of similar tool in slot in small knob "B" behind the reset knob and turn toward "F" if clock is running slow, or toward "S" if clock is running fast. It is advisable to move the regulator only one division or graduation at a time. By following this procedure your clock may be regulated to keep exceptionally close time Nice to hear it is running now.

Randall, <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Face it....an increase to $3.75 a gallon is just the beginning. America is so far out of phase with the rest of the industrialized world in what she pays for petrolium, we will have to increase it a lot more just to get up to par with Europe. </div></div> Cost to produce gasoline is not as great variable through out the world as it seems as the fixed costs are pretty well set and do not vary with the price of crude oil. Taxes (which indeed are part of the price we pay for gasoline) do vary greatly through out the world. If we do not tax as they do in other places we will not pay as much for our "gasoline" (and taxes...) as in other places. We see a good example of that right now from city to city and state to state. We may well be heading for permanent +$3 per gallon gas but it will not be just because crude oil costs more. Gotta agree with Dave. Decreased sales of gas will lead to reduced prices. Production keeps producing and the dealer has to move it out of their tanks into yours hence the incentive of lower prices <span style="font-style: italic">unless</span> the reduction is permanent. If it becomes permanent prices could increase to meet the fixed cost demands of the business' involved. The recent rage over SUV's, etc. certainly has some basis in the relative "cheapness" of gasoline and I don't see any reason the same thing would not happen again.

Nice work, Will. Any performance figures? Should be pretty quick...

This is from the '55 Owners Manual but I believe is the same for your clock. As, over the years, it is a certainty that the battery has been replaced and the clock was not properly set I think it might be a good idea to try this given your clock does work. Good luck - FAILURE OF CLOCK TO RUN - IMPORTANT - The electric clock requires special attention when reconnecting a battery that has been disconnected for any reason, a clock that has been disconnected, or when replacing a blown fuse. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT THE INITIAL WIND BE FULLY MADE. To be certain of this, proceed as follows: 1) Make sure that all other instruments and lights are off. Connect one terminal of the battery first. 2) Before permanently connecting the other cable, touch the terminal to its post on the battery. Immediately afterward strike the terminal again to see if there is a spark. If there is, allow the clock to run down until it stops ticking and repeat as above until there is no spark. Then immediately make the permanent connection before the clock can again run down. The clock will run down in approximately 2 minutes. The above procedure should also be followed when reconnecting the clock after connections have been removed, or when replacing a blown fuse. Be sure to disconnect the battery cable before installing new fuse.

Barney, I've largely kept my opinions to myself with regards to the "hot" issues of late (gas prices/oil exploration/mileage; modifieds/customs/stock) as it has been my experience that people are pretty entrenched in their positions and while I enjoy a good exchange (and have enjoyed largely reading the exchanges thus far) have found it is generally not worth the effort to engage in attempting to change anyones religion, political persusion, world view, etc. Having said that I do think the BCA should reach out to anyone with interest in Buicks (to include modifieds and customs). I am saddened when someone cuts up an old car to modify but it is not sacrilege to do so.

While I am between Buicks (and with three girls [one in college the other three going over the next few years], etc. it will probably a good while before I get another "old" Buick which is much different than a "new" one which I may indeed acquire soon [by new say a '96 or so LeSabre/Part Ave]) the why's are pretty easy. 1) That's what my dad had when I was growing up and whose dad is "wrong"? Earliest memories (vague) are of his '47 Super he traded in on a new '52. 2) Really remember the '52 Super he picked up in Flint [took the train to Flint - not a direct route from Milan, Ohio either] and drove back to my Grandparents home in Milan. We drove it home to California and gave it a good breaking in. I learned to drive in this car. Loved the straight eight - how smooth it was, overhead valves instead of flathead, fun working on with my dad. 3) My first car was a '50 Super ($25 for a clean, well running car - those were the days). 4) The first car I thought was pretty "hot" was my '54 Super. Was not really that fast but I kept the pedal to the floor and eventually... Loved the V8 and it's uniqueness with the upright valve covers. Not a Ford, Chevy, Mopar, etc. which made it even better. 5) The other 6 Buick's I've had were all fine cars. Not a lemon in the bunch so what is not to like? I think you said it pretty well, Dave. Great combination of style, mechanical reliability, size, etc. Great character - sadly lost for most cars today.

Try Auto Colors Library

Evidently it is not enough to have GM on the seatbelts only as it has been for 40+ years? Don't think the BL tagging of autos is what caused the demise of MG/TR/et al but... Be nice to have a piece of the vendor that makes the GM logo as it will be on a lot of cars/trucks.