Gene Brink

You've got it, Dan. God bless, Gene

Rigo, Nice looking and very complete. Black will be cool but I don't think I have ever seen a green one (which appears to be the original color) so it would be more unusual in green. Good luck with it - I am jealous of your find...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is a long thread on the LCOC board concerning the reduction/ elimination of ZDDP and its effect on our older flat tappet engines. If you are using the newer spec oil with ZDDP removed there are additives that can be added, or you can still use the diesel rated oils for now. http://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=18359 </div></div> Was not the Lincoln forum but was reading someplace that the elimination of zinc as an additive is not great for lifters all the old Buicks have (roller lifters are the reason it was dropped - no need for the protection it adds) but the article said racing oils still have the additive so there is another option.

Brian, Geez, hard to figure out. Assuming the wheels turned when you got the car they must not have been properly tightened when you got it. Since you only cleaned and greased bearings with nothing being replaced there should not be any difference. Any chance the brake shoes are a bit too wide and that is what is actually dragging? You can check by removing the shoes, putting the wheel back on and testing it - if it turns it is the shoes. Otherwise I'd have to assume that either the bearings are not correct or the drums have been replaced are a tad too wide. Good luck correcting...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's a 70 - look in the upper left...there is the first seven digits of the VIN. 446370Hxxxxxx </div></div> And 360 hp makes it a '70 as well...

A '56 I believe. Super/Roadmaster door is different so would have to be a Century/Special. Let us know when the correct answer is known. Best I can do, Gene

Vito, You might want to rethink where the vibration is a bit more. You indicated it went away when you shifted to second BUT regardless of gear the driveshaft and rear end will be turning at the same speed it was at the shift point because they are not dependent upon the gear you are in for a given road speed and hence do not change speeds as shifts occur. I'd guess either an engine, transmission or tire problem and the first step I'd take would be to rotate the tires (this since I did have a tire problem on a '68 LeSabre I owned - vibration around 30-35 but smooth below and above that speed - turned our to be some tread separation). Good luck!

Just could not resist sharing this <span style="font-weight: bold">Dog Diary vs Cat Diary</span> Dog's Diary entries.... 8:00 am Dog food! My favorite thing! 9:30 am A car ride! My favorite thing! 9:40 am A walk in the park! My favorite thing! 10:30 am Got rubbed and petted! My favorite thing! 12:00 pm Lunch! My favorite thing! 1:00 pm Played in the yard! My favorite thing! 3:00 pm Wagged my tail! My favorite thing! 5:00 pm Milk bones! My favorite thing! 7:00 pm Got to play ball! My favorite thing! 8:00 pm Wow! Watched TV with my people! My favorite thing! 11:00 pm Sleeping on the bed! My favorite thing! Excerpts from a Cat's Daily Diary.... Day 683 of my captivity: My captors continue to taunt me with bizarre little dangling objects. They dine lavishly on fresh meat, while the other inmates are fed hash or some sort of dry nuggets. Although I make my contempt for the rations perfectly clear, I nevertheless must eat something in order to keep up my strength. The only thing that keeps me going is my dream of escape.. In an attempt to disgust them, I once again vomit on the floor. Today I decapitated a mouse and dropped its headless body at their feet. I had hoped this would strike fear into their hearts, since it clearly demonstrates what I am capable of. However, they merely made condescending comments about what a "good little hunter" I am . The audacity! There was some sort of assembly of their accomplices tonight. I was placed in solitary confinement for the duration of the event. However, I could hear the noises and smell the food. I overheard that my confinement was due to the power of "allergies." I must learn what this means, and how to use it to my advantage. Today I was almost successful in an attempt to assassinate one of my tormentors by weaving around his feet as he was walking. I must try this again tomorrow -- but at the top of the stairs. I am convinced that the other prisoners here are flunkies and snitches. The dog receives special privileges. He is regularly released --and seems to be more than willing to return. He is obviously retarded! The bird has got to be an informant. I observe him communicating with the guards regularly. I am certain that he reports my every move. The captors have arranged protective custody for him in an elevated cell, so he is safe....... for now....

Larmar, Fingers are not any fatter but my typing skills certainly are not any better. 322 indeed. That is why one should proofread a bit...

John, Put on my '93 Park Av a couple of months ago and they do put out a bit less dust, no difference in noise (quiet) and do feel as though they stop better BUT as they replaced old pads that were worn down about 2/3d's of the way it is not a fair comparison. Cost was about ½ again so was not a whole lot more. Have not gotten the wheels really dusty yet but the dust does seem to be easier to wash off and is noticeably lighter in color. I'll stick with them from now on.

That should be what you have, Teach. 311 with 2 barrel carb.

Thanks, Lamar. Merry Christmas to you and your family.

Sounds like an easy fix. Simple "(not required)" added to the form would do the trick.

Stan, I had to move my '54 one time when the transmission was out. Carefully lifted the rear-end on a good sized floor jack and pulled it gently at the same time a friend pushed the front of the car. Would not want to go very far but you can move a bit. Good luck.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My Winter Storage problems were solved when I moved from the frozen tundra down to the suana called the Gulf Coast. Now if I could figure out how to keep the car cool when its 95 degress and 95 % humidity. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> </div></div> Southern California, Bill <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

Alex, Just guessing but would bet sitting for so many years has not been good for the carb and that the leakage at the top is because the float is sticking and not shutting off gas flow (OR the needle valve is hot and not shutting off gas flow) to the bowl. This is probably resulting in way too much raw gas getting into the cylinders and the engine is flooding. If I were you I would buy a spray can of starting fluid and give it a good blast down the carb and then try and start. If it fires right up you then have a fuel problem for sure and I'd guess a carb rebuild would solve it. Assuming (which may be a bad thing to do given how long ago the carb was rebuilt) the starter switch on the carb is not sticking once the engine starts the starter should disengage. Good luck.

Looks good, Robert. Regarding balance I'm sure the converter must be factory balanced (spot welded weight on an inaccessable [when installed] face means it had to be balanced already) separately from the engine/transmission combination with removeable weights. Both my '54 and '55 manuals have a section titled ENGINE MOUNTING ADJUSTMENT, FLYWHEEL REPLACEMENT, ENGINE BALANCING that describes how one goes about balancing if you experience vibration (I changed my Dynaflow in my '54 six times when I was a kid and never had to balance any of them at all!) and would think a '56 manual would probably have the same thing essentially. Sure it would probably take a while to accomplish as it is pretty much a trial and error method. Good luck! P.S. If you do not have anything let me know and I'll transcribe the '55 notes.

Happy cruising, Dan. So which one spends the most time in running condition? The Buick or the MGA?

Enjoy, Anders. Nice clean LeSabre.

Looking good, Robert <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Easy to explain - it's a "Spec" car (broken side trim)! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Roberto, Three things to check in the most likely order. 1) Is the accelerator pump working? With the air cleaner off have someone press the gas pedal to the floor while you look down the carb throat. Should see a good stream of gas. If not probably time for a carb rebuild (assuming all linkage is hooked up properly). 2) Is there fuel in the carb bowl? Might be worn gaskets so the gas is evaporating and you need to crank a while to fill the bowl. 3) Is the choke operating properly? If not get it working as it will make it easier to start a cold engine. The good news is that if it runs good, once you get it going, the fix should be pretty simple. Good luck

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">for those that are not from Pa, this is Miss PA </div></div> No wonder your son wants to ride along. Evidently he has not got an eye for cars... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Lamar, Someone may be confused. Diana Lewis Powell (generally known as Diana Lewis) was an old hollywood star (which makes sense given the Coachcraft of Hollywood customizer) and is described as "the second Mrs. Powell" on the web (no mention of Howard whose biography on the web only shows one wife - Marcela). Born in 1919, died in 1997. Pretty cute judging by pictures on the web so would look good on a Buick. She also owned an '81 Excalibur Phaeton so evidently liked customs for a long time.

Randy, I'd bet electrical. Try pulling plug wires, in twos - both from the same section of the coil pack, until there isn't any change in how the engine runs to determine which cylinders are not getting spark. It will either be the coil pack or ignition module (and I'd bet the ignition module is bad). Both can be tested if you pull and take into Auto Zone (or others I'm sure) for no charge. A quick $60 or so for a shop to plug into their computer. Good luck P.S. Remember if you are not getting spark the raw fuel is still be injected into those cylinders so you will quickly contaminate the oil as well as really stressing your catalytic converter with the very rich exhaust flow so do not drive much this way.