ajordanbuick51

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About ajordanbuick51

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    www.alexmjordan.com
  1. Wow that is neat. I had already went and bought some Liquid Glass auto polish right before you posted. So we polished the car all up and used the pre cleaner and then noticed the fuel pump started to leak..Haaaa just my luck.(The car does shine like a new dime though) Now I'm trying to decided who has a fuel pump and how I can either get the rebuild kit or a rebuilt fuel pump? I'm going to try Bob's Automobilia, and Kanter, and a few others to see who has the best price and time to delivery. Got to have this by friday at the latest. Ahh and I had just lost a bid on a rebuilt duel action fuel pump. Alex
  2. Hi, So I?ve got the car running in tip top condition now and its time to clean it up. I?m not sure if the paint is original or not. But, over all it is in good shape. My question to all is if the paint is the original paint can it be polished, buff, and wax with today?s products? Or is there something better? Someone told me that that kind of paint you could even use motor oil to clean it. I?m a little unenthusiastic to want to use motor oil to bring back its shine. I pretty sure the chrome is same chrome used today and can be polished with modern day polish like #7 Turtle wax correct? I?m putting a picture to show how good the paint has held up staying in an enclosed garage the last 20 something years.
  3. Just a thought but the dist has a grease fitting that is in the place you are talking about. I,m posting a picture of my 1951 buicks dist shaft from the underside. Hope that helps. If you need a grease fitting you can get them at a parts store or some where like www.mcmaster.com Alex
  4. Don't make the mistake I made. I started a 51 buick up and noticed valve noise. It turns out, it was actually pushrod noise. After sitting so long those valve will become stuck from the gas and oil turning to something stronger than super glue. TAP THOSE VALVE WITH A RUBBER HAMMER(on top og the springs/rocker arms! Save your self some money. Don't do something dumb and have to replave about 6 different push rods! Sorry just thought I would put that out there. Alex
  5. Hi, The other day I was checking the valves when I noticed 3 push rods were bent. I was able to take them out and measure them. I was getting 10.25" Is this correct for a 263 straight 8 w/ dyno flow trans? This car is a 1951 buick Super ser 52. The bent rods may be slightly crushed and wondering if they were actually 10.5" Alex
  6. AHHH I found 4 bent pushrods, and 1 hyd lifter not working. this car was running on like 4 of the eight cyl, kind of neat it would even crank and run. Any ideas how the pushrods got bent? I wonder how long they had been like that. Well I wonder if I should just replace the 4 bent rods and clean the 1 hyd lifter or just rebuild the head and have it shaved. This would explain the loss of power and the car running ruff and smoking. When I get back home, I'm going to post some pictures of these bent rods. I wonder if someone set the rocker arms to tight on the pushrods? thoughts?? Alex
  7. Ok so I want to replace the hood emblem on my 51 buick, every now and then I see them on ebay and see them as NOS the last one I saw went for $225, yeah I thought that was high.. well follow this link to see what the last NOS emblem went for....go on just see.... Ebay 1951 Buick NOS Hood Emblem Anyone know if you can find a reproduction or want to sell one?\ Alex
  8. Well Looks like I will be ordering a new valve gasket from Bob's automobillia. I think the tube may be clogged from the new type of oil that is to clean all the gunk out. It think the detergents must have free some gunk. Thanks for the quick reply, it gives me a starting point. Mainly I just wanted to know if these engines were quiet or not. Alex
  9. I recomend just taking a 1" socket and placing on the crank bolt on the front of the engines and turn the engine "CLOCKWISE" until you get it just right on top of the ridge of the dist nut and set the gap. lot better than bumping the engine over a few times. Also makes it easy if you take the spark plugs out, but you can still turn it with them in just get a long breaker bar. I just did this with the 51 buick 3 weeks ago. Alex
  10. Hi, so after a lot of restoring and overhauling on a car that has just sat in the garage I?ve cranked the old dinosaur up. It has had all kinds of new stuff and fresh 15w-40 Shell Rotella oil w/ new filter. The car seems to have a lack of power pulling hills. The valves are making all kinds of clattering noises, is this normal for one that has sat un-cranked since 1990? I did every kind of preventative maintenance, including taking the oil pan off and cleaning all the old gunk out of the bottom. The oil pressure is great!. Will the noise in this straight eight with dynoflow stop having valve noise after it has been driven aprox 100 miles, or should I just take the valve cover off and inspect what is going on and lesson with a tube to my ear to narrow where the sound is coming from? I?m assuming that the loss of power is from ?Stuck Valves??. I know this car only has aprox 128 Horse power, do these cars just not move very fast or have a lot of pulling power being ?low compression?? I?ve read about one person actually put a quart of ATF in the oil to get these valves/ lifters to stop clattering? We went up and down the street and the car seems to improve after driving it a little bit. Others on this forum suggest hitting the valve with a rubber mallet (seems kind of risky) to help loosen them up. Love to hear what you guys suggestions on noisy valves, I have a shop manual, however just wanted to hear from you guys first. Also will it hurt the car to drive say 50 miles with the slight clicking noise? It seems to be making the noise at all speeds of the engine. Alex 51 Buick Super
  11. bob's automobilia sells the stuff that is supose to be the stuff that was made for it. I got some to top off the 51 buick.
  12. WOW that engine looks nice. Did you keep the 6volt system too? See some of my other post on here to see my 51 buick's engine. Did you turn the air-filter just for the pic or is that the side it orginally pointed(toward the front)?
  13. Thanks guys for the reply. I didn?t think about the solenoid on top of the starter depleting so much power. The starter is covered with a thick layer of gunk from over the years. It didn?t look like it was too hard to take off. I noticed in my box of spare parts for the car I have a NOS solenoid. I think I will take it off and put that new solenoid on it. I take it I will need to disassemble the starter to oil the bearings? I will defiantly clean that switch on the side of the carb. w/ alcohol. Attached in the pics is of the underside looking up at the starter rely and dist. shaft. One can see the oil build-up on the engine. At the bottom you can just see the starter. I will try some starting fluid as well. DO I need to momentarily bridge the bat. & Gen. Terminals on the voltage regulator every time I hook the battery up? Or just when the car sits for a long time w/out the battery?
  14. Hi I noticed a questions about the same carb however not many pics. I have many questions. I have just finished really doing a number on this old Buick. New wires, plugs, oil pan gasket and filter, new oil, new trans Oil pan gasket and new fluid, Boiled out gas tank, flushed out the gas line, New sending unit, flushed out the engine coolant, and put a new battery on it...the list goes on... Here is my questions: The carb was rebuilt back in 89, however when I go to turn the engine over, gas shoots out of these two holes on the top of the carb(See pics attached below). Is this just the over flow? I had to really spray a lot of carb cleaner before I could even move the gas pedal from the years of gum from the old gas(last cranked in early 90?s). It looks like gas is leaking from around seals see pics. This Buick starts when you press on the gas pedal when the switch is on the on position. When the car sounds like it is going to start the starter is still turning because the swith is on the side of the carb. The owner?s manual says it will automatically detect when the car is warm and know when to shut off the starter? However I noticed someone has also wired a starter switch under the dash as well and into the starter rely. Both will work the starter. I?m I missing something on how to keep this starter from turning and hitting the fly wheel when I press the gas pedal? Should I just step down all the way on the pedal in order to crank this car? I have the service, manual however I do not have it with me right now. I have yet to crank this car because the battery is drained to fast before I get it started. I dry the plugs off before I try starting the car. They are a little wet so I know they are getting gas. And I hear the engine sound like it wants to start up so I know the plugs are firing. Question is to have the carb rebuilt again or not? The two jets in the pics below shootout gas when the accelerator is pressed. I would think this shows the carb is working great? I?ve read that these carbs need to be primed by pouring a little gas down the carb?
  15. I've had trouble finding a replacment tank..used, new or remanf. or something that I could make work. If anyone one knows a good place that would help too.