Gene Brink

Bryan, Know what you mean and it seems to be true - especially over the last couple of years as it seems as though there is less posting than previously. Dave has hit one reason I think and it seems to me that there may be another as well. Intolerance. When someone has an idea that differs from some (even the majority) it triggers an all out assault from a few regular posters which may have the unintentional (I hope!) result of less participation by some (Dave Moon, Matt Harwood, Joe [in San Antonio I believe] and Skyking come to mind - and I know Dave no longer has his '60 Buick so a bit less interest seems understandable and he still weighs in -- just not, sadly, as often). Must say I enjoy a lively exchange even when it involves criticisms but there should be a level of exchange that remains respectful and sometimes think we collectively have fallen short of that and miss some of those that "stirred the pot" so to speak. Still a very pleasant way to pass some time and I am never less than amazed at how helpful people are when a need is expressed.

And if this persists pull the thermostat and check it. Could be that the wrong temp unit was installed and it is staying closed much of the time to keep the temperature where it is "supposed" to be.

Phil, Fascinating sleuthing! Great that you managed to get the plate - particulary since it had been removed frome the car! And you've managed to free the motor - with some luck you may not need to overhaul.

Thanks, Phil. Fascinating. Best of luck as you continue.

Thanks, Scott!

Thanks. A lot of fun and all the cars are just right age-wise. Got all 48 correct (could never do with 70's and newer...

http://www.windingroad.com/articles/blogs/flip-this-car-1994-buick-roadmasterpart-6/?utm_campaign=Weekly+Email&utm_medium=email&utm_source=email-105. Thought this was a fun read. A lot of fun for very few dollars (and some surprises too).

Rob, You might be okay with R134A. Won't be as efficient as R12 but perhaps adequate. I had to replace the compressor on my '93 Park Ave and the A/C went from really cold (cooled the car down fast) to not so cold comparatively but in all temps up to 100+ will keep the car cool enough. My understanding is that new cars make up for the difference by having larger condensers. Maybe someone else has some experience with older A/C units and how efficient they are using the new refrigerant so you can get an idea of what to expect.

Thanks, Rob. A fun respite from work...

'55 manual gives two possibilities. They are: (1) If front oil pump pressure is OK, remove and inspect clutch assembly (par. 5-20) (2) If front oil pump pressure is OK, but high accumulator pressure is low and accumulator body gasket is not leaking internally, inspect for leaks in reaction flange gasket. If gasket is satisfactory, inspect clutch piston outer seal and ball check, also oil sealing rings on hubs of reaction shaft flange and low drum (par. 5-20) Manual also offers this - "When a Dyknaflow transmission does not operate properly it is advisable to first check the shift control linkage adjustment, after transmission is warmed up to normal operating temperature and oil is at proper level." Thise seems like good advice however as your transmission works properly after time it does not seem as though the adjustment is off. Good luck

I'm with Dan, brass will not rust and is just a bit softer so in my experience just a bit easier to drive in. Good luck!

Cengiz, It has been almost 50 years since I owned a 2 door 50 Super but am pretty certain there isn't a chrome strip but rather windlace (cloth covered foam rubber). Take a look at this website to get an idea (there may well be others so do some searching) Good luck - Buick Super Windlace

Randy, May be slightly different. My '55 shop manual shows the following: 40-60 series - measurement from centerline of holes in the side rail to center of transmission mount = 21 1/4" 50-70 series - measurement from centerline of holes in the side rail to center of transmission mount = 22" Overall side rail to side rail (center of each) is 42 1/2 to 44" - 50-70 being larger. No measurement for the actual trans mount member but the drawing looks as though the mounts welded to the frame are identical on both frames which would mean the trans mount member would be slighter longer on the large series car. If you are looking to buy I'd suggest measuring to be certain what you buy matches the measurement on your frame.

Craig's list has a clean white 4-door with 48,000 miles. All info in posting at '63 Buick Lesabre - Clean, original!

Justin, Couple of thoughts if double checking all connections does not help. Remove the starter and clean up the commutator to be certain you are getting good current flow to the brushes. And, while apart, replace the brushes if worn. Do both before getting a new starter as they are tough and should last and last. Similarly the generator may be a bit corroded and in need of the same attention. Good luck!

I am envious... Enjoy!

1969 Opel Rallye Kadet. Rolled it around one year after buying new and bought a 70. Both light green with chromed wheels. Drove the 70 for years. Fun cars both and with 102 horsepower were pretty quick little things...

And then you'd be ready for a blast down the quarter mile again, Bill?? With better results than the last time I hope

Quick read and gives a good impression of the car. www.windingroad.com/articles/blogs/blog-buick-does-it-again2-million-americans-wont-even-know/?src=Nextscreen

More encouraging words for the new Regal at Winding Road | Blog: Buick Does It Again?2 Million Americans Won?t Even Know

Sid, One suggestion I'd make is to carefully measure each cylinder for roundness and taper. If they are out by much your new rings will not seat properly and you will have blowby and go through oil like you are an Arab sheik. Learned this the hard way on my '54 in '64 and it has stuck with me. My '55 shop manual says the maximums are: taper - .005" and out-of-round .003" - exceed either measurement and they say to bore and replace the piston. Good luck and happy driving!

Born in '47. Parents had a '47 they bought in '49 (replaced a Studebaker my dad got after coming home from WWII). No real memories of it. Can remember thd day in Sept '51 when my dad took off from Milan, ohio to pick up a new '52 Super 4 door in Flint. Drove up to my grandparents' house in late afternoon honking the horn. Broke the car in returning to Los Angeles and had the car for 160k+ miles and junked it in 1965. Second was a '54 Super which I inherited from my folks in 1965 when my mom picked up a '64 Skylark. (Next up was a '59 Caddy they got in the summer of '65 - many memories and one of two non-Buick my folks have ever owned.) That makes me 18 and grown up (or so I thought at the time) but my parents continued the "good example" by buying a new '66 LeSabre, used '75 Skylark, used '67 Wildcat (love it - fast and a sleeper), used '82 Regal, new '91 Le Sabre and new '01 LeSabre (which just passed 140k and they are talking about replacing with another car which I'd bet will be a Buick) over the next few decades . In addition to my folks driving mostly Buicks I've also owned a '54 Century, '55 Century, '66 Skylark, '68 Sportswagon and a current driver a '93 Park Av.

Mr Earl is correct. Two large bolts holding the hinge to the hood assembly (probably 1" or so head size) and a friend (or two) is a definite yes.

'54 Buick Super 2-door. Wish I still had the car...

Bill, Any chance your camshaft was turned down when the engine was rebuilt and your pushrods are just not long enough to fully open your valves? If the engine can't breath and exhale properly it won't run well at all. You should see plenty of oil (won't throw about excessively) flowing when running (valve cover off of course) with plenty of clatter if any are not getting oil. Re: pre pumping lifters. Don't remember this having to be done on '50's but did have to do on my '54 and did so by imersing in oil and manually pumping up and down with a push rod until all air was expelled. Having said that unless you have depressed the lifter seat so it is blocking the oil inlet they should fill up pretty quickly when running anyway - will just be loud because they were dry. Last thought - if the timing chain is off a tooth or so the engine could run smooth, timing would appear to be okay and run without any real power (did this once on an old MG - one tooth off and the car would not run over 2500 rpm). Might be worth dead timing and then seeing if the timing marks agree. Good luck (and stay cool if you can this time of the year)