wroberts

Looking for a good tan color steering wheel for a 1980 Buick Electra, Park Ave. Please contact Joe Kreetts 321-636-8777 (Buick Nut)

Heres some of my pictures from the meet 1st of heres my ride, w/family Then heres some of my pictures, If I've posted your ride and you don't want it posted, reply and I'll edit the posting and remove it.

Well, was just by today to take some pictures and they scrapped it. One less 41 Chevy in the world

Was just at Taylor Auto Salvage, on Pardee Rd, in Taylor, MI, 16211 Pardee Rd Taylor, MI 734-281-1342 They go through about 500 cars a month, so anything that ends up in there is only there about a month before it scrapped. So if you want it, hurry. In the yard in the GM section is a 41 Chevy, or at least labeled as such, it certainly looks 40's. The Front Clip is missing, but the rest is there. The Frame and drive train are there, the doors apear whole. The engine has the valve cover removed, but it is in the car. I've never seen anything that old in any of the the yards I frequent. I wish I could tell you more about it, but I know nothing about most cars before 1960, as I'm an 80's car guy. However I strongly suggest you check it out and save what you can because It will soon be crushed.

Yes the 82+ Cradles had the steering Rack on the Cradle. I have a 82+ Skylark Steering Rack, but I'm not sure about it's fit to the column. Guys that I've seen use the newer celebrity eurosport steering rack have to swap out at least the ends of the column to bolt it up. Either way I have the rebuilt 82+ rack and an NOS 80-81 Rack. In order to use the 82+ Cradle it requires modifications to the tunnel area This depression needs to be made In order for the new cradle to fit. Heres what the exhaust looks like on the 3.8 Heres it comes out of the cradle Heres how my current exhaust is routed This is not my engine I don't yet have a new style Cradle and these guys did this swap without it, so I'm thinking that if I could get the exhaust to fit then I'd be OK. I'm thinking I could just cut the exhaust and reweld it pointing down. I'd plug the O2 and relocate it to the side of the exhaust pipe.

Heres the second part of the article Most guys that I know that have done this swap have used the newer 82+ cradle that is shared with the 83-96 Century, Ciera, etc... they did this for 2 reasons 1. they beleived the 80-81 Cradle could not support the torque of the larger engine 2. they had issues with the exhaust routing. However this article would seem to blow away reason #1 and if it's just exhaust routing I think I can get around that. Mine has the wrap around exhaust and does have the rear point directly out. However it looks easy enough to chop and point down, or just bend the exhaust down. I think I'm going to skip the cradle swap, clean up and lube the engine and put it in. I'll beef up the existing mounts and swap in new/upgraded control arm bushings. The article mentions that they gave the car back to Buick, I wonder what Buick did with it?

Actually I just found this article on a Skylark with a 4.1 in it. It's from Hot Rod, December 1980. So I guess I'm not quite the first guy to try something like this with a Skylark. My question is would the Headers from a 80 Century/Regal, like the ones mentioned bolt up to the FWD 3.8? One of the biggest issue with my swap and the others that I've seen on X-Body cars is that you can not use cradle on 80, 81 cars because the exhaust doesn't fit. (V8 swap into an 81) But these guys didn't seem to have a problem. I'd have to put the O2 sensor after the Y-Pipe to get it to work right, but thats no big deal. I'm also considering the "dollor port job" they did. I wonder what happened to this car from magazine.

I already have the Harness and ECM for the 86 3.8 and full sets of wiring diagrams for it and my Skylark. My day job is an engineer working for a wire harness manufaturing company, and I have access to a FULL set of terminal picks and anything else I'd need. My company provides the wire harnesses for 1 in 3 cars world wide. The wiring doesn't scare me, it's what I do for a living. I'll have all the emmisions stuff hooked up. The only thing missing from the Trans is the speed sensor, but some late 80's Caviers have an inline cable driven speed sensor that I can use, and will let me keep my dash. The 86 ECM is pretty much self contained, and way easier than the newer 3800 swaps. The stock TH125 thats in it is used by the Fiero guys with a V8 bolted to it. So the Trans should be OK. My 81 doesn't have a torque conveter though. That wasn't an option till the 82 year. Is it worth getting a newer TH125C with the torque converter? If I did the inline speed sensor I could get the ECM to control it, but I'm pretty sure I'd then need to get the chip modified to work with the trans. I live in MI so there is no issues with emmisions, I can do anything, it never needs inspected. I will put a full stock Century 3.8 exhaust in it though. I do want to pull it apart, heads, timing cover, oil pan, intake... just to look it over and make sure that while it looks like its never been opened up it actually hasn't and everything is there and torqued down right. I also want to lube it up good. I'm thinking about a CAM and Roller lifters, and maybe getting the intake polished. Car Craft also had an interesting article on backcutting valves. But I'm new to this and don't want to screw it up. While I'm also in a club that does a lot of these swaps X-Body Club I beleive I'll be the first person to do it with a Skylark, but in the 80's theres no real powertrain/engine compartment differences between the GM makes. However nobody in that group has experience modifying the 3.8. Of coarse I could just leave it alone, but If I'm taking it apart why not swap in some parts? For those of you not familiar with what can be done with a GM X-Body, or A-Body for that matter, heres some examples.. 3.8 (same engine as mine) mated to a turbo in a Citation. 3800 Series II SC in a Citation 4.9 V8

I have an 81 Skylark Convertible So naturally this puts me in the modified category, so if I am I might as well go all out and yank that 2.8 Chevy motor and put in a Buick motor, a FWD 3.8 I picked up this new motor that was orginally donated to a vocational school by GM. Aside from taking the EGR, harness, and Fuel Pressure regulator. It's intact, and best as I can tell never opened. I plan on dismantling the engine and going through it replacing gaskets, checking torques, and lubing everything. But while I got it torn down I was thinking I might as well pop in some upgrades while I'm at it. What do you guys suggest? I'm thinking modest performance gains, but maily reliabilty as this being a convertible isn't getting raced. I know most of the internals swap with the RWD 3.8 from the Regal, and theres lots of stuff for that. Any body have any suggestions engine upgrade page

I'm looking for a Bumper Valance (AKA Air Dam): GM part # 25505906, item #7 for my 81 Skylark. New or used doesn't matter. will_e_roberts @ hotmail.com 734-546-1337

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I would use the flexplate from the engine you are installing as these engines are usually externally balanced </div></div> The engine I got doesn't currently have one, so I'm looking for which one I should go with. To mate the 3800 to a TH125 Trans most guys have to buy a special machined down one West Coast Fiero 3800 Flywheel but as I'm using a older 3.8 I'm unsure if the stock one will fit, if you're saying it does, then I'll just buy a new one. If I do get a new one should I have the motor rebalanced? <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I presume you will be using all of the necessary later model electronics that came with and work with the newer engine? </div></div> The 86 ECM I'm using does need a speed signal from the Trans, but to quote the manual "The VSS sends a pulsating signal to the ECM, which the ECM converts to MPH. This sensor mainly controls the operation of the Torque Converter Clutch" The Diagnostic steps for the error code I would get from not having the signal only involve the speedometer and TCC operation, no mention is made to any performance differences. Besides I don't have a TCC on my 81 Trans anyway. I do rember reading about other guys that have done similar swaps and GM did offer an inline cable sensor as stock item on one of the 80's cars, I just need to find it. If I don't I may get a custom chip with the speed sensor disabled. The 86 ECM pretty much just talks to the Engine. The only other input it needs besides the speed signal is the Park/Neutral Switch. The electronics for this swap is a lot easier than the 3800. So since I'm already in the modified class with the convertible Skylark, how much help would a 3.8 swap be in grading my modified car?

Well, heres my car: I'll be swapping this new FWD 3.8L into it: But before you tell me it can't be done here it is in the same body (A Chevy Citation, AKA GM X-Body, same as mine: I have pretty good details on this swap, but as you can see thats a 3800, not a 3.8. So I need details on what makes this swap different. I'm planning on upgrading to the newer (82-96) Engine Cradle found on X, and A Body cars, and if you will remember they made the FWD 3.8 for the Century T-Type. Included in this a new cradle mounted rack, and I got all the details for the wire harness and the 86 ECM I'm using is A LOT easier to manage than one from a 3800. The only question I have relates to Flywheels. I'm planning on using the TH125 Trans that I have as I need a cable driven speedo and am not going to swap in a Century dash, as the Citation in the above picture did. What flywheel would I need to mate the 3.8 to the TH125? Will a stock 3.8 work (OE# 25515222; 142 Teeth; Pitch 12-14; 11.91" Outside Diameter) Or could I use a flywheel from a 3.0 (Which is derived from the 3.8) to mate the trans? (I used to own an 84 Ciera with the 3.0 and a 3 speed Trans) So what do I need, please help (and yes I know I'm the Tech Advisor for 80-85 Skylarks, but as you should note this engine was not a stock option)

I've bought a lot of stuff on Ebay, and have used it to buy and work on my car. I've been bidding on stuff for 6-7 years. Here's what I've learned. 1. There will always be another one. -No matter how rare, there will eventually be another one on Ebay, don't pay more for this one than you want to. 2. Baby sit your auction. -Don't put in the full amount you are willing to pay at the beginning. Wait see what bids come in and then do your serious bidding in the last 5 minutes, 3. Look for mistakes. -I've bought a lot of stuff cheap because they mispelled something in the listing, or placed it in the wrong category 4. If it's high ask the guy a question. -Once you have his email you can always ask him about his unsold merchandise. He'll still have it 5. Save your searches. -I get daily emails of stuff for my car, it doesn't take me any effort to look. Theres a lot of stuff out there that is overprised, decide what you want to pay and stick to it.

My take on it is it depends on the Vin # That determines what year it is. If the frame has numbers on it that say its a 50, and you have a 50 title, then it's a 50. Only a collector could tell the difference, the state/insurance isn't going to know. Although if you have classic car insurance it may affect what they appraise it at. So in the end I'll say whats on the frame of the car, but this is only my personal opinion. The situation you are faced with is common enough. On my own ride, Not everything is from the exact year. I tend to put the best parts on it that I can find. I see no point to have a restoration come to a halt because you can't find a 50 front end when you have a nicely fitting 51 laying around.

Depends, whats the reason that you have the car? Is it to drive it and have fun, or try to win awards and sell it? If you have the car because you enjoy it then put what you like on it, and save the other stuff for when/if you ever sell it. If you're rebuilding it to sell the car then keep looking. For me personally, as a buyer, and owner, I'm more concerned about how the finished product looks and performs. I could care less if it matches a specific year perfectly. To other people, as a buyer and owner, they want an all original and are willing to pay for it.