ply33

Looks like it is a replacement, not original, version as it does not have the hole for the hand crank. Reproduction grills that are made of stainless steel instead of the original's chrome plated steel are available for less than your asking price.

Jim Osborn Reproductions 101 Ridgecrest Drive Lawrenceville, GA 30045 Telephone: +1.770.962.7556 Fax: +1.770.962.5881 email: josborn@osborn-reproduction.com Jim Osborn Reproductions Inc.

On the Chrysler products the body was steel and the chicken wire is electrically isolated from the body by the roof fabric material. On those roofs the fabric is stretched around the wooden frame and stapled or tacked on the bottom. Then the frame with fabric is pressed into the opening on the body top. Trucks used a similar system but apparently used fiberboard instead of chicken wire to support the padding material. 1933 Plymouth Roof Installation shows the general installation procedure. If you replace the fiberboard in the illustration with an edging of metal strips and a center of chicken wire you then you have the system on my Plymouth.

Nice video! Thank you for sharing it.

At least they did not use "full classic" so they didn't have to answer to the CCCA.

Wood spoke wheels were available for Plymouth in 1933. Some have told me that they were also available in 1934 but my parts books do not show that.

Looks like they do use salt in France. At least there are French companies supplying salt for de-icing roads: France - ROAD DE-ICING | Flamingo Salt And another link giving amount of salt used on French highways: http://www.salins.com/nine-questions-on-de-icing-salt-79.html

That is true of the 1937 Plymouth. I was with the owner of one when he discovered that by accident. Being the same year as the Dodge in question it would not surprise me if it were true for that car too.

From memory as I am away from my parts books and service manuals.... The seal is, I think, two parts all spring loaded inside the impeller. The most obvious is a flat fiberboard/micarta piece that presses against the machined surface of the housing. That handles the rotating part as it were. Behind the micarta piece (inside the impeller) I believe there is a rubber seal. While it is on the rotating shaft, the relative motion between the micarta and the shaft is negligible so the rubber seal might be considered to be "fixed" in relation to the parts it is sealing. So the rubber keeps coolant from getting between the shaft and the micarta board. The micarta board running against the machined surface on the housing keeps coolant from getting into the shaft/bushing area. Again, this is all from memory and may well be incorrect. I do know that it should not weep. The only time my cooling system loses water is when I drain and flush it for periodic maintenance. Other than reaming the bushings to correct size, the only tricky part I remember was getting the right pre-load/end-play on the shaft. You need to press the pulley on far enough that the spring loaded micarta seal is pressed against housing enough to seal but not enough to wear rapidly. I vaguely recall a end play measurement that was supposed to get this correct. Once the pulley is in the correct position, then you drill and pin it. Later Plymouth pumps use the same internals but a different housing to account for the wider block and use of a water distribution tube. Also, later pumps have a hub that the pulley and fan bolt on to rather than having a one piece pulley/hub. You can fit a later Plymouth water pump on the 1933 if you make a custom backing plate with the correct inlet hole location for the 1933/34 block.

Not sure I can help much, but the pump should not weep. It has been decades since I've actually rebuilt one myself so my memory is not clear, other than the internals were the same for many years so rebuild kits up into the 40s or 50s should work. The last go around I had Arthur Gould rebuild mine. No issues with it for maybe 10 years now.

Originally there were three different numbers: An engine number (also stamped on the frame above the rear wheel kick up on the driver side), a body number (on the firewall), and the serial number. They are all different. Chrysler tracked the vehicles by the serial number, so that would be the most like a modern VIN. However many states registered the cars by the engine number. Serial number plates for Chrysler corporation cars of that era are located on the front passenger door hinge post. It will be a tag that says "serial number" and will have a numeric (no letters) sequence. There are people reproducing the tags but I am not sure of the legality of replacing one. The engine number was stamped on the block above the generator and typically started with the engineering code for the vehicle. I'd expect your original engine number started with a "D" for Dodge ("P" for Plymouth, "C" for Chrysler, "S" for DeSoto or "T" for Dodge Truck). If your paperwork has a number starting with "D" is it most likely the original engine number and not the serial number.

Interesting. I thought Chrysler was alone in having the insane idea of using the oil pump as a vacuum source. They used it on 1928 and 1929 Plymouths (perhaps other cars too) to supply vacuum for the fuel pump. I guess you could climb a long hill without worrying about fuel starvation but if something when wrong with the vacuum fuel pump you could lose oil pressure and/or have gasoline pulled directly into the oil.

Great article. Thanks for the link.

Did you actually click the link and read the single page? It boils down to a 6 step set of simple instructions. Actually only 5 steps as #5 is for small businesses and #6 is for residents. The instructions seem pretty reasonable to me (I am not a resident of SF): Wet the asbestos with water. Place the asbestos in 4 heavy duty trash bags (1.5 mils thick), one inside the other, and close with duct tape. (If you can find them, you can also use 2 special plastic bags for asbestos or "contractor bags" (3 mils thick) available from safety supply companies. Whatever type of bag you use, the total thickness of these bags must be 6 mils. Ducts and pipes must be no longer than 5 feet. If you can't find bags that are large, double wrap the ducts and pipes with heavy duty plastic and tape all seams with duct tape. Each bag should weigh no more than 30 pounds. Write "Waste Asbestos" on each bag. The disposal fee is 25 cents per pound for small businesses, and they must schedule an appointment in advance. Only San Francisco businesses that generate less than 220 pounds of waste per month may use this program. Call (415) 330-1425 for more information or to schedule an appointment. There is no fee for residents bringing asbestos from their homes, but there is a limit of 125 pounds per trip. The facility is open for residents Thursday - Saturday. Call (415) 330-1405 or visit our household hazardous waste page for hours, directions, and policies.

Maybe this video?

A long while back when I lived in the LA area, I was skiing in the Sierra above Fresno and the water pump bearing went out. Tried nursing it down to civilization but the thing eventually froze up and I was stuck. By the time I got towed into town there was only a Pep Boys open (which had the pump) but no mechanics available. The tow truck driver pulled past his apartment, went in and got his personal tool kit then dropped me, my jeep and his tools at a lot next to the tow truck company office. Said to return the tools to the person behind the counter when I was done. Saved me from having to spend the night there as I was able to replace the pump and drive the 200+ miles home that evening.

I don't believe that the number of cylinders was mentioned in the thread at all. I assumed the six cylinder but Best Gaskets also shows the in-line eight gaskets on their web site.

Yet another reason to go with the electrolysis method: The washing soda and water mixture gets pretty dirty looking but it does not smell nor attract flies. If your plants need an iron supplement, just pour it out in the garden.

Since I can get a manifold gasket kit at for my 1933 Plymouth at my local auto supply I am a bit surprised that the set for the larger Chrysler engine would not be equally available... Do you have the part number(s) for the gaskets and/or the gasket set? There is a good chance that if you enter them into NAPA Online's advance search you'll come up with a modern cross reference. Looks like Best Gaskets makes them, so if you can find a local supplier that carries that brand you can get it. See: Vintage Automotive Gaskets - Head Gaskets and Rear Main Seal Gaskets - Best Gasket.......[510]

It does not surprise me that early cars used the same measuring scheme as bicycles: A fairly large number of early cars used bicycle derived parts and/or were designed and built by people who got started by making bicycles. For what it is worth, it seems that the 5.25x17 tires available for my car have an aspect ratio of 1.01:1. Very close to your 100%. This is based on looking at the stated size and the "mounted tire diameter" for those brands and models of tires that publish the information.

Not sure if your vehicle has it or not but I had a 1982 Plymouth which took a special diagnostic plug and tooling. Might be the same as it is a similar vintage. However you could turn the key on-off-on-off-on (or maybe another on-off cycle, its been a while and I've forgotten the details) to get the ECU into a mode where it would flash the engine light with the stored codes. Basically the light would blink-pause-blink for each two digit code until it had read them all out. Perhaps your car will do the same thing. Not sure were to find the codes any more. I had the factory service manual for the car at the time and they were listed in there.

I am not sure which interchange book you are referring to. An auction number would help on that. There have been some generic interchange books that I've seen that I thought would not be very helpful. The 1928-33 Master Parts Book will be invaluable. I purchased a reprint years ago and still constantly reference it. It would be nice if it had more and better illustrations, but a careful read will often get you the information you need. A supercedence (spelling?) list from the late 1930s or 1940s would be another good thing (which I am looking for now). I now use a 1936-48 parts book for that since many mechanical parts are the same between 1933 and 36. Once I have the newest Chrysler part number I can find for the item I am interested in I then try NAPA Online or Parts Voice to find a current supplier. It is amazing how often I can get a cross reference to something I can get at my local auto supply store.

I will be interested to see the pictures. One thing that took me years to learn was that the firewall will be black regardless of the body color. I was certain that my car was originally black because of that...

P.S. A Google search for "1933 Plymouth" turns up, on third link my page at 1933 Plymouth DeLuxe Six which does show the 189.8 engine detail. Is your car a PC, PCXX or PD? Serial number on the passenger door hinge post will tell for sure. Does your car have an original interior and/or original paint? I'm trying to reconstruct the paint/trim codes for 1933 as Chrysler Historical does not have that.

1933 is the first year for the six cylinder engine for Plymouth and is a bit different than all others. It even varied during the year. A quick summary off the top of my head, I might be forgetting something though... 1. They used three different setups for the oil pump and oil pressure relief valve during 1933. Along with a factory retrofit kit for the middle version. You will have to check your parts book against the engine number and look at the engine for a while to figure out what you have. 2. The late 1933 (with the oil pressure relief valve on the driver side of the block) and the 1934 engine blocks were basically the same. 1933/34 engines are slightly narrower than the 1935 and up blocks as they added the full length water jacket and water distribution tube in 1935. So head gaskets are 33/34 specific. However all the other gaskets (pan, valve covers, etc.) are the same for 1933 up through end of industrial production in the early 1970s. 3. They stroked the engine in 1934 to 201, so the 1933 rods and crank are different than the later ones. But, as far as I know, you could use a 1934-41 crank and rods in a 1933 block if you wanted. I've left mine stock as I figure it will deal with higher RPMs better with a slightly shorter stroke. 4. 1933-41 189.8 and 201 engines used the same bearings and pistons. The 1942 218 changed that. 5. Water pump housings changed for 1934 and again for 1935. Same mounting hole pattern but the inlet to the block differs. You can make up your own backing plate to put a later water pump on. Or rebuild your water pump with readily available parts (internals were the same for many, many years). Arthur Gould does a great job on rebuilding these too. 6. It is possible to put a later engine into the 1933 but there is a clearance issue with the starter. The starter position was rotate outward a little when they went to the full length water jacket in 1935. I've seen some where the back of the starter was ground down. And another where an adaptor plate was made. If you feel so inclined to reduce your power, a 1933 engine can be bolted into replace the L-6 engine on any later Plymouth.