ply33

Interesting. But I am an impatient person so I'll stick with using electrolysis for rust removal. Hours or overnight versus weeks. I already have a battery charger and a couple tablespoons of washing soda is probably cheaper than 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of molasses.

If it is a 1930 or later Chrysler product then there might still be a serial number tag on the right (passenger) door hinge post. Serial numbers were assigned to assembly plants in ranges for each model produced to you can tell what the car model is and where it was built.

On either car, the serial number tag should be on the right (passenger) side front door hinge post. That number will allow you to look up the model and plant the car was assembled at. That said a real easy way to tell a PA sedan from a PB is the rear window. The late 30-U and the PA models have an oval rear window. See Plymouth First Decade: Where is the VIN? for a list of Plymouth serial numbers.

From the pages of the August 1934 issue of Automobile Digest (a trade magazine for automotive service shops) comes this multiple page ad.

Drove the 33 to Portland, OR last summer for a show. Nearly every station I stopped at the attendant suggested that I do the filling. And the ones that did not suggest it allowed me to do it after I asked. Granted the sample size wasn't large and it was only along US-101 and I-5. Maybe someone who actually lives there can clarify but it seemed to me that the attendants did not want to be responsible for damage to a vehicle they were not comfortable with filling.

CarbKing apparently has more information on this than I. I will toss in that the final 1928-33 Master Parts Book lists the C6A2 for PD and all PC variations. As far as judging, I'd be surprised if the AACA judges would know the difference between the various Carter versions. For Plymouth Owners Club I'd bet they would only notice if the carburetor had the reinforcing flange from the top of the float bowl to the inlet (33 does not, later ones do). And they would be looking for the little brass tag listing the carburetor number which could be stamped with anything you like.

Seems like many cars have the gas filler on the side opposite the exhaust/tail pipe. I suppose that might be for safety reasons. Or maybe they lay out the exhaust system to be on the side opposite the fuel filler. Chicken or egg... Does not explain the positioning of fillers that are not on the side at the rear of the vehicle (1950s & 60s pickup trucks come to mind as well as those cars with the filler behind the license plate).

I really like the hood ornament. That car has great style and looks to be in excellent condition. Congratulations!

And wackos like me too. I have wondered why they just did not slant the glass in a the top a little on all windows. It would not take much to move the reflections to below eye level. At least in summer you can usually have the windows open which helps a lot. And for hand signals, rolling the driver's side window up and down at each turn is a pain anyway.

If that water is there from condensation from sitting so long, then there might be similar issues with the lubricants in the transmission and rear end... Also, DOT3 brake fluid is hydroscopic... Might want to flush and replace all fluids before driving the car.

Thanks! I've added it to the database: Plymouth Replacement Parts And people can find it by doing a search by name or part number at: Plymouth Replacement Parts

Ditto what SilverGhost wrote. My guess would be condensation based on your location since you are in an area that gets lots of fog and a fairly large temperature change from day to night. Assuming, of course, that Sausalito is where the car was stored.

If you could post the part number from Grainger, I could add an entry in my online database for Chrysler part number 304188 (Water pump packing) so the next person who is looking can find it faster. Thanks!

I believe you will find instructions in the "Operators Manual" for your car. A quick search turns ups: 1930 PLYMOUTH Full Line Owners Manual User Guide: eBay Motors (item 270584816134 end time Nov-22-10 14:16:52 PST) There may be other vendors also, but that is the first I found.

See: 1933 Plymouth Wiper Motor Tune-up If that doesn't work then Ficken Wiper Service (Wiperman) has been highly recommended.

Air bubbles get in when the fluid is agitated so you have to be careful when filling the master cylinder. I don't see a mechanism where the fluid would entrain air bubble by cycling the barometric pressure. My guess it that it is a "urban legend". For what it is worth, I live very close to sea level and have driven my silicone brake fluid equipped 33 into the mountains at elevations up to 9,000 feet on several occasions with no issues due to brake fluid. Mind you I am careful to use engine "compression" braking on down grades to avoid brake fade with those tiny 10x1.5 inch drums. But that is not an issue with the type of fluid, all internally expanding drum brakes will have fade issues if the drums get too hot.

Perhaps you meant "regardless". Or maybe "irrespective".

I've had good experiences with YnZ's and Harnesses Unlimited. And I've heard others have had good experiences with Rhode Island. None of those will be cheap, but the quality is right up there. Generally you can have the customize the harness a bit too for things like turn signals.

The advanced search at NAPA Online shows possible cross references for 909501 to BRG B01. It does not come up with anything for 909502. But one out of two is better than nothing.

And there are some that require you to answer an old car question or even a marque specific old car question before the registration completes and you can post anything. That stops nearly all the spammers.

The thread on "NOS Champion spark plugs" got me wondering. http://forums.aaca.org/f169/nos-champion-spark-plugs-what-do-186596.html In an era long, long ago there was a distinction between NOS and NORS. If I recall correctly, NOS (new old stock) was stock from the original manufacturer of the vehicle with a possible extension to stock from a supplier to the original manufacturer. NORS (new old replacement stock) was old stock from after market providers made in the general era of the vehicle. I would think that those "NOS Champion spark plugs" should really be "NORS Champion spark plugs" for most applications. But I haven't see NORS used in years. Is that a dead term? When did it stop being used? Am I remembering all this wrong (that has been happening with more regularity than I'd like recently).

About 20 years ago the Ski Sunrise ski area north of Los Angeles was still using a flathead Ford V8 engine to run a rope tow. Don't know the current status, I've heard the area was sold a while back. The Dodge Ridge ski area has a beginner area with a rope tow that, at least through last year, has Model A wheels for idler pulleys. I haven't looked to see what they use for powering the setup.

I think that is the crux of the problem for lots of car shows, not just ones trying to get brass era cars to come out. I will pay to enter my car in a show if I know that the money is going to a charity I approve of. But otherwise entry fees for cars is a turn off for me, especially if the general public can get in for free. The local Model T club hosts a very nice event at a local history park each year. No entry fee for vehicles but they must be 1945 or earlier. There is a great turn out of Model Ts (of course) but there are usually a dozen or more other brass era cars. This year they had a steamer theme and had two Stanleys, a Locomobile, a White and a Doble. All were fired up and driven around the show so people could see them in motion. So getting older vehicles to events can still be done. And they are out there, I saw a Model T touring drive by as I was waiting to make a left turn into the grocery store parking lot this morning.

Yep. If you've switched to 12v then you need an ballast resistor or you need to switch to a "12v coil" that has a ballast built into it... I did not mention that above because I am stuck in the "as built by the factory" mindset.

DeSoto Frank is right on the money. I've got about 20,000 on my current set of points. As per other posts on this thread, suspect you have condenser problems. Use a modern condenser. And when you are doing a tune up if the old points aren't pitted, just worn down, then keep the old condenser as it is working just fine. It might be polarity too. All the 6v MoPars were positive ground and the coil, etc. are built using that assumption so your spark will be hottest if the polarity is correct.