ply33

The horror stories I've heard about DOT5 (silicone) versus other types of brake fluid have been when they are mixed, so I'd really try to figure out what is in that "new" old car. Out of the container the DOT5 fluids I have are purple. I don't know if that changes over time in the brake system or not. But I think a sure fire way to tell what is in the system would be to take a little fluid from the master cylinder and put it on a painted surface: DOT5 will not damage paint while DOT3 will. In addition to being good for use in vehicles that are stored for long periods of time, the fact that DOT5 won't damage paint was one of my considerations when I used it in my old car.

I don't know about silicone used in rubber applications but it is my understanding that DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluids are hydroscopic (can absorb water from the atmosphere) but DOT5 (silicone) brake fluid does not.

Controversy brews over increased ethanol fuels for older cars | The Car Tech blog - CNET Reviews

Until I looked at Google maps just now I did not know where Phoenix, OR was. Practically on the California border and Yreka is pretty far north in California... I can believe that the car, in good mechanical condition, could do 70 and that it would run nicely at 55 since that describes my 33 Plymouth's performance. But I wonder if he can do that on the grade from your town toward Mt. Ashland. All I could do on that section of I-5 on my return trip from the Plymouth Club's meet in Portland last summer was a bit under 50.

Looks like a nice solid car. California YOM tags in Oregon? I assume then that the car was recently purchased and/or the owner just moved to your area.

You might want to look at 7. What parameters determine octane requirement? Go down a little to a table that gives compression ratios versus octane requirements. Looks like you will want something between 96 and 100 octane. And, at least where I live, that is not available at the local filling stations.

Per Rusty_OToole's post, the engine number will be the best bet for identifying your engine. I've marked this photo to show were to look for it.

I spoke with the owner of the Doble that was at the Santa Clara Valley Model T Ford Club organized "Antique Autos at San Jose History Park" last Sunday. He claims to have 5 Dobles and that 10 are known to exist. The car he had there had very nice lines and it was impressive to see it steam up in 20 seconds and drive off after the the 20 minute demonstration of steaming up a Stanley.

Was the 38 Olds positive or negative ground? The VWs were negative ground and I suspect installing a solid state radio designed for negative ground systems would need total chassis isolation if installed in a positive ground car.

Yesterday I saw a 1937 Chrysler Airflow with a wicker picnic basket on the rear floor. In that basket was a battery operated iPod speaker system and an iPod playing vintage music. Not actually a permanent solution, but you might get your music that way until you find the appropriate radio for your car.

Another possibility for steering and suspension parts is Rare Parts out of Stockton, Calif. Steering & Suspension, All American Cars, Import Cars, Off Road and Trucks | RareParts.com They may not be the cheapest but if they don't have it they will make it. And if they have to make it for you from a sample they will add that part to their inventory so the next person who needs one can get it. For example, they actually make the steering drag link for 1933 Dodge and Plymouth.

I suspect that your state will more upset about using fuel that doesn't have a road tax collected on it than the feds will be about the lead.

By the way, the nuts that hold the manifolds onto the block are supposed to be brass. And there are special tapered washers for the exhaust studs that allow the manifold to move slightly as it heats up and cools down. You can get them from Vintage Power Wagons. If the original brass nuts are on there then removal of the manifold assembly should not be too hard. If some previous owner used steel nuts or replace them with steel bolts.... Well there are words for that. The tough ones, at least for me, are the four bolts that hold the intake and exhaust manifolds together. If you don't have to open things up to repair the heat riser then just leave them be. If you do break that joint open, then when you are putting things back together you want to have those four bolts loose until the manifolds are firmly bolted to the block so that they line up straight and flat on the block. Then tighten those four bolts that attach the exhaust manifold to the intake.

The manifold gasket set is the same for all Plymouth and US built Dodge cars with 6 cylinder engines from 1933-59 (and industrial applications to about 1972). Canadian Dodges and the larger Dodge trucks have a 25 inch long block that is closer to the DeSoto and Chrysler engine. Anyway, the hidden fastener is on the bottom in the center of the manifold assembly. Do follow Bamfords Garage's advise and visit the P15-D24 web site and discussion forum. While most of the people on there have 46-48 Plymouths and Dodges there are a fair number with vehicles outside that year range too.

Incandescent bulbs can, to a certain extent, be self-limiting. A higher voltage leads them to run hotter which increases the resistance of the filament which cuts down the current flow. An LED, as I understand it, does not work that way. The high output LEDs I've see specifications on run on about 3 volts so even in a 6v electrical system they need some sort of voltage reduction setup. If all they have internally are some inline resistors they may be more sensitive to over voltage conditions than a incandescent bulb. But that would depend on the internal construction of the specific bulb...

Have you checked with the publisher? Skinned Knuckles "volume" year is from either August through July or September through August. I'd have to pull a copy off the shelf that is 200 miles away to be sure which. And, traditionally, they have published an index to the year's articles in the last issue of their volume. So look in a July or August issue to see what articles were published in the last year. For articles published more than a year ago, you are probably best off is you can get the end of volume edition for each year and go from there. I have heard of an effort to index all of their issues but don't know of the current status for that.

Or a clogged vent hole in the gas cap...

What Tinindian said. Here is my list of obsolete filter numbers that you can look for at swap meets or on ePay: Plymouth Replacement Parts You have several options: Look for them on ePay, etc. The are still pretty available. Buy a new one from a specialty supplier. I think Roberts still lists them. Because of my web site I get some odd ball emails at times. One was from a company in India that claims to manufacture this filter. Maybe Roberts and others get them from a company like that. Get a period filter assembly that uses replaceable elements. There are several different ones out there, all pretty available. And most of them use elements you can buy at your local auto supply. There are a few types listed in the Plymouths parts book and there are more that were made by companies like Fram. There is a fellow advertising in the Plymouth Owners Club's magazine a unit that looks like the sealed filter but it apparently opens up and a modern filter can be installed inside. By the way, you don't need to replace the bypass filter at every oil change: If it clogs up nothing immediately serious happens. The oil just gets dirtier. This is different than a full flow filter where clogging is too serious to let happen. (Either the built in check valve fails and you get no oil to the engine or the valve works and a lot of accumulated gunk goes into your engine. Since you don't want either of those things to happen and you don't know the state of the filter you should replace it at every oil change.) My solution was to figure out how many more decades I think I will drive the vehicle, figure out how many miles that works out to with my average yearly mileage, then stock up enough filters to last.

I got mine maybe 8 or 10 years ago from Page Title It was a bit of a hassle as he was not setup for international commerce at the time. I have heard that since then the situation changed and you needed to go through a US distributor. I paid about $6/bulb at the time and I understand they are closer to $20 now, mostly I think, due to distributor markup.

State in question is New Jersey, whose laws I know nothing about. However in the few states I've lived in I don't recall a requirement by the state that your insurance has to have the same restrictions as the licensing. Generally it does make sense to make them the same, but I can imagine circumstances where you might want to have them different. For example, in California the YOM plates are basically just plain old vanity plates. You pay the full regular yearly registration fee for them. Because of that the state places no restrictions on use. However you might want to have collector car insurance on the vehicle as it is cheaper than the alternative and generally gives you better coverage. In this case your driving restrictions are set only by your agreement with the insurance company.

Speedometer operation is pretty simple. At least in theory. The needle has a spring to return it to zero. And it has an aluminum disk or cup and covered by that cup is a bar magnet connected to the the speedometer cable. As the magnet rotates it sets up eddy currents in the aluminum which have the effect of trying to rotate the aluminum cup with a force proportional to the rate the magnet rotates. That force moves the needle until the force from the return spring is enough to balance it out. Things that can go wrong: Dirt or damage to the needle pivot points, magnet weakens with age, spring ages or breaks. However as simple as they are they are also very delicate and my experience has been that when I try to fix one it just means a higher bill from the professional to repair the damage I've done in addition to the original fault. Unless you are used to working on delicate instruments, like watches or mechanical clocks, and have the appropriate tools I'd leave it to a pro.

= = = = = = = What is there to "think" about ? Unless you have a special source for fresh 1950's gasoline' date=' you either get an electric fuel pump, or you will be having fuel starvation problems (people like to call that "vapor lock"). ...[/quote'] I like running the car as close to stock as possible. The few intentional changes I have made are totally invisible and can be reversed quickly. Cutting the fuel line from the tank, installing a pump (maybe with a hole drilled in the frame for mounting it), running wires and mounting a switch somewhere on the dash (again maybe another hole). Are, for me, big visible changes. And the downside of not having an electric fuel pump? Twice this summer, both times in 100F heat after long high speed driving, I had a hot restart problem. That is not, quite yet, enough of an issue to overcome my distaste for altering the car from stock.

Don't know the details on yours, but he thermostatic spring on Plymouth is set to pull the flap to a position to heat the intake manifold's "hot spot" when cold but then weaken with heat and allow the counterweight to move the flap to a bypass position when warm. So if the spring is broken you end up in the warmed up position. Maybe your Buick works the same way.... The Antique Auto Parts Cellar, also known as Then and Now Automotive, has the thermostatic springs for Plymouths. They might have one available for your car too.

Mind if I use your photo on my web site to show what the those lug nuts should look like?

A thermal absorption cooling unit would be my guess too. Absorption refrigerator - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia