old-tank

Gary I have no experience with Japanese bearings. Willie

Gary The bearing that I used (Bower or BCA number=RA 1502 EL) will work on 45-55 and I got it locally at a bearing/seal supplier. The inner race that is pressed onto the axle is harder to find and I don't have that number---you probably don't need to change it anyhow unless there are large pits or gouges. A lite coat of grease on the seal edges and axle should do it. Check the country of origin on the package...for all I know these may be foreign by now too. Willie

Gary Install both the same way with the cone or lip pointing to the center of the axle. Unless your old bearings are defective, consider using them instead of some possibly newly made in China bearings that will soon fail. If the old ones are bad, try to find some NORS American made bearings like New Departure. Pack with a good grease like Vaolvoline Synthetic and you will never have to service again. Willie

Thanks for the responses so far. I checked and the thinnest they have is 1/32 inch (~0.030)...I need 1/64 inch (0.015). Willie

Tinkering again: trying to rebuild the vacuum diaphragm for a 55 Buick. The material appears to be 2 ply rubber/cloth mesh reinforced about 0.015 inch thick. I made a working unit using vinyl seat uphostery material, so I know my method is workable. No, I am not going into business, but will share with others that are willing to spend some time instead of money. Willie

Old discussion that never did get resolved and is now missing some images. Too many differences in measuring technique. My personal conclusion is that the length of the 1954 and 1955 50-70 series are the same as all of 1956 and that length is one inch (1") longer than the 1954 and 1955 40-60 series. Take your pick of actual dimensions submitted. Willie

High resolution photo Shown is the vacuum line off the manifold going to the lower rear of the fuel pump and the vacuum line from the front of the fuel pump going to the wiper motor and washer switch. Let me know you need a photo of a loose fuel pump with the fuel and vacuum ports shown. Willie

Bob I need something like that but 1/64" or 0.015" for a 55 vacuum diaphragm. Willie

Thanks for the suggestion on McMaster-Carr, but no joy. The thinnest material that would be suitable is 1/32 or ~0.030 and that would be too thick. Google 'vacuum diaphragm rubber' lists some sources, but all are Chinese. Still looking... Ben I would not use a 50-60 year old pump. Rebuild, but just replace the diaphragm(s)...the valves and other parts supplied in a kit would not need to be replaced. Willie

Tinkering again: trying to rebuild the vacuum diaphragm for a 55. The material appears to be 2 ply rubber/cloth mesh reinforced about 0.015 inch thick. I made a working unit using vinyl seat uphostery material, so I know my method is workable. No, I am not going into business, but will share with others that are willing to spend some time instead of money. Willie

My question is how are they making these things smaller but heavier? A 4000 lb 55 Buick is considered a big heavy car, and it is. And there are plans for 4 cyl engine in that thing? Remember in 1976 they put a 105 hp V6 in the 4800 lb LeSabre...that same year the 455 was only rated at 205 hp. Willie

1961 in a 57 Ford wagon. This was only the 2nd time I drove that car (learned on a 51 Plymouth) and passed the test even though I launched the officer off the seat when I simultaneously hit the brake pedal with both feet expecting a clutch pedal. I aced the parallel parking due to the great visibiliy of the wagon. Willie

Measuring between the beads is how I do it. If tires are mounted I take them to a tire shop that does computer balancing...they have a caliper that gives the width needed to set the machine. In 55 the rims are 5.5" on the Special and 6" on others. I bought a replacement 6" rim from an early 50's Buick. Willie

Air from oil fillers/breathers is from a hole in the piston. Pull the head and then be prepared to pull the engine for rebuild or replacement. Willie

Paint shades will vary greatly between suppliers and between batches from the same supplier. The last paint ordered from CARS, a quart can and a rattle can did not match. My last project below, I painted the block with Alpine green (detroit diesel) bought locally (Duplicolor) and then added parts from other projects...you should see at least 3 shades of green. But, it does not look very noticeable in a dark shaded engine bay. Another example is the engine from my CVT in the signature below. I saw Thriller's car at the Nationals, and while it may not have matched the cars next to it the shade was well within the variations I have seen. Willie

This is apparently the procedure to adjust and preload pumped up lifters. What would be the procedure for new presumably collapsed lifters? If you did the above they would never pump up and the valve would be held open. Does the service manual advocate pre oiling and pumping up manually in a can of oil? I guess the only way to kinow for sure is to remove them for inspection. If they were previously adjusted and quiet and are now noisy, then more running with Rislone may help. Willie

Looking at all the discussion of the LaCrosse, I decided to check it out. No 2010 models locally but the 2009 is a little car compared to the Mercury Marquis for example. But looking up the specs it weighs around 4,000 lbs; AWD is 4,200 lbs--that is what my 55 Century 4dr hardtop and CVT weighs (Mercury Marquis=41,000 lbs RWD with a full frame). The engine specs are another thing: 3.0L, 255hp @ 6900 rpm, torque=217 ft lb @ 5100 rpm...all that and a final drive of 2.77. A nailhead peak hp is in the 4,600-5,000 rpm range and peak torque is at 2,000-3,000 rpm with final drive of 3.2-3.6. Who the heck drive will drive that car to regularly get that potential output from it? I guess that's why they need a 6 speed transmission. Is this progress or another boat anchor? Other cars are like that too: Ford Fusion 3,500 lbs=55 Chev; Fusion Hybrid=3,800 lbs=55 Special. Progress? Willie

Zero compression and smoking, probably a hole in the piston. Do what kaycee suggested, but you will probably have to pull that head for inspection. Willie

As always Joe has a good description of the starting circuit. Even if the the vacuum switch is malfunctioning or there is a jumper wire in place the starter motor should not continue to operate after the engine starts. Other things that can cause the starter to operate after the engine starts is sticking solenoid contacts. This is almost alway caused by a low voltage condition such as weak battery, undersized cables, resistance in the ignition switch or starter relay (if equipped). (On 12v cars with a ballast resistor that is bypassed during cranking the engine will continue to run and the starter operate even with the ignitions switch off). Frank, this is all probably too much information. First thing to do is go back to the last thing you did to create the problem. Willie

Barney this should be filed under "Dang, why didn't I think of that". Good idea, thanks for sharing! Willie

Do a compression check and report back. Willie

Fix one thing at a time. Most of these cars have multiple unrelated problems. Willie

No...if lean enough to run at high altitudes it will be too lean at lower altitudes. In my case I was too rich at high altitudes and just right at lower. My experiment with the leaner high altitude jets in the old Ford proved this. Willie

ian mac The kit from CARS will not have what you need...either try carbking or salvage those parts from a used carburetor. Willie

ian mac: You may be on the right track speculating on the change in altitude causing the driveablility problems. Last month when we were in Colorado for the BCA national, I had increased driveability problems with my car (55 Century) with increasing altitude. I live at 550 above sea level (asl) and the car runs great. At 6,000 ft asl in Colorado Springs It started running to rich...chugged black smoke on startup. At 9,000 ft asl in Dillon,Co I had to hold the choke open to start cold and after warming it still had a hint of black smoke from the tailpipe. At 12,000 ft asl at Loveland Pass, Co. even when warm it was hard to start and would barely run chugging black smoke. I remarked that it I lived at those high altitudes I would have to change the carb for it to run leaner. 25 years ago I tried to get better mileage out of a Ford flathead V8 by changing to 'high altitude jets'. It would barely run and overheated from being too lean. So if your car ran well at high altitude it may have had carb modifications. Look for some stock rods and/or jets. Check user 'carbking' on these AACA forums...he may be able to help with advice and/or parts. Willie