old-tank

Update: Here is an image that has recently been on the forums... I enhanced it and it shows a 55 Buick rear with an open driveshaft. The lever shocks are present as are the strut rods and the panard bar. Also visible are the pinion locking bolts. There are probably some links above the axle that are not visible. Willie

d2_willys Like I stated the tool showing installing the driveshaft...just reverse the nuts and it will pull. It is easier to understand if you have your parts in front of you. I have never seen a yoke for an open driveshaft installed, but it probably could be done. There is a pinion seal...check the service manual for details. Willie

Rich Congratulations (or condolences) on tackling this job. I made a puller using the front and rear flanges from a 55 Buick torque tube. Using this method, forces are directed through the front pinion bearing and this could damage it; I have used it on 3 R&R projects and loaned it for 4 other projects without any issues. The other way that I used before this was to have a driveline shop cut off the tube (shaft), press the remainder off the pinion and then weld the tube back on after pressing on to the pinion ($$$) and then straighten the shaft. You will not need heat or a BFH using the puller...let us know if you have any other questions. (the puller is shown installing)

If you isolate the tank like it is supposed to be, be sure to use the original steel gas line fitting. If you use a section of rubber line the tank will not be grounded and the gas gauge will not work...otherwise run a separate ground wire to the sending unit. Willie

RediRad I saw this advertised in the Bugle today and wondered anyone has any personal experience with this product. Willie

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I seem to recall figuring that out long time ago now. I think I was just hoping I was wrong. So that means no chrome trim rings on my lil Special.</div></div> Wrong again motor mouth. Many Buicks, even Specials had the optional full wheel covers, so the trim rings could be a 'step up' option on the Special. Willie

A synonym of prolific is fertile...I'll leave the rest to your imagination.

Pete The small hubcaps were standard on all models except 70. The cap was used alone on the 40 and on the 50-60 a trim ring was added (55 parts book: group 5.871 p/n 1323462 1955-50-60). The trim ring is identical to ones used on 15" wheels of early 50's Ford trucks. My CVT originally had small caps and trim rings on wheels painted body color (Temple Gray) with black stripes. I did not intend to ambush you Pete ...I'm just old and slow about getting pictures and research done. Willie

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'll be driving Black Beauty there from Central Oregon. Plan is to meet a couple others somewhere on the Interstate in Oregon and caravan through Salt Lake City, across southern Wyoming and then south through Denver </div></div> Before you commit to that route, talk to Bill Stoneberg as that was his route on the Seattle trip 2 years ago. I took the southern route: I-70 to US-6 to Provo and it was much cooler and scenic and I would recommend Provo as a place to stop. The only trouble I had with that route was when I got caught on US-6 behind a 26 car/truck caravan of mexican migrant workers going as hard as they could at 45 mph. Oh yeah, I will be driving the 55 in the avatar, but probably no caravan with other Texas Road Warriors. Willie

Take your brake shoes and drums to your local brake/clutch service center and have the drums turned and the shoes relined and fitted to the drums. You can request a friction material to suit your needs. Do not use Raybestos shoes...they will not stop the car until they get hot. Others with a 60 Buick will probably soon chime in here. Willie

John Look at the wheel covers...it'a a 55 Special.

Budd Some differences on my original 55: Starter green with even the tag painted; distributor stem and clamp green (upper 'bowl' was black with no paint on the tag); even the base of the carburetor was green; the vacuum and fuel lines were green. Mudbone The fuel pump in the picture appears unpainted, but I am 100% sure it was painted...all of the painted parts (green)discussed had to be on the engine for the initial test run. Initial test run is the standard when decideing on paint for a part....they did not add or change necessary parts and they did not remove bolts that went into a fluid cavity (power steering bracket...other brackets like air conditioning were added without removing existing fasteners). Willie

Pete Pulleys are plated, probably originally cadmium; balancer, fuel pump, air cleaner bracket are green. I don't know what water pump is on the engine, but it is not a 55. The only way to put a different year pump on is to change the timing cover...I think you can even put a 401 pump on a 322 if the timing cover is changed also. Willie

Polarity is not an issue except for the ammeter. If the radio has had the original 6v vibrator replaced with a solid-state unit is will not work either. You NEED negative ground for any modern 12v accessories. Willie

Bill Thanks for sharing your experiences with the Kanter drums. I will send you a private message about the dash. Willie

Update: got the radio working using a resistor that is so simple.... http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ub...adio#Post586011

Turns out the solution was very simple: Tekonsha 2012 Single Variable Resistor Trailer Brakes. Just adjust the slide until you have 6v...can mount nearly anywhere; I mounted it on top of the radio...some heat, but acceptable. Willie