NTX5467

You can probably get a brass t-fitting and tap into the oil galley where the factory sending unit is, then run the mechanical gauge from there--even if it's just temporarily to see what the oil pressure is and/or how it acts upon initial start-up and at various rpm levels. On the earlier non-balance-shafter 3.8L V-6s, if they did not see reasonably regular maintenance they'd get a main knock in them--the center main bearing. From what my machine shop associate told me, the main oil galleys were cast in and then drilled. In other engines, they are drilled with one long drill bit, front to back, but on the 3.8L Buicks, the oil galley is a two-sized affair where there are front sections and rear sections, with a smaller section in the middle. One bearing, less oil, smaller cross section in the galley? Sounds reasonable, but with poor maintenance, the center section gets smaller with "accumulations" so the center bearing is somewhat "starved" compared to the other ones, even with good oil pressure in the system. Pressure but not enough flow, it would seem. Not sure what the aftermarket shops might see, but I suspect that very few GM dealerships stock anything for a 3.8L Buick V-6 other than some gaskets. HIGHLY reliable engine, especially if it's taken care of. Not sure about the balance shaft bearings, though, that's a "new one". Do you hear it with the sight shield on the engine or off? Sometimes, it seems those things are on there to dampen the sound of the injectors doing their thing. I concur regarding Fram filters. Fram is a very old name in the filter business, but when it became part of a big conglomerate in the '70s, things seemed to go downhill from there, construction wise. They might still "meet of exceed factory specs", but that does not mean they are built as well as an OEM brand filter. Wix, by observation, used to be a low-line filter, but when Dana Spicer bought them, that changed big time. In many respects, with OEM brand filters being so available these days, there's really no reason to buy an inexpensive filter unless that's all you can afford. I've used ACDelco oil filters on my GM engines and have had no problems, even well past 300,000 miles. Even the current DuraGuard filter media in them has smaller micron filtering specs than what they did in the early 1980s. If the motor's still running reliably, with no metal particles in the oil (maybe one of the GM magnetic drain plugs might be put into servivce?), then you might go ahead and run the engine a while longer. But also starting to save some money for possible future repairs or down payments. Sometimes using a thicker oil might make some of the noises lessen, just don't go too thick. Sometimes changing from regular to blended synthetic or to full synthetic might have an affect on cold start issues as the synthetic will typically flow easier and sooner than a straight petroleum base oil. For general principles, you might do the next oil change with the same brand oil you've been using, but use 10W40 weight oil. The "10W" spec is for zero degrees F, while the "40" is for "operating temperature". So, at ambient 70 degree F temps, it would not be fully at "10W" but probably more like "20". But then the same would be true with the 5W30 too, for when the engine is first started, yet it would get thicker when the temperatures rose. Might take some experimentation to find what will successfully diminish the noise you're hearing, provided it's related to clearances somewhere in the engine. You might also consider getting one of the stethoscopes at the auto supply tool rack. Or a long socket extension or even a broom handle can work too, but you won't have the ear pieces to deal with as you'll have to put your ear to the end of the "rod". Put the probe/socket/handle on various parts of the engine with it running and see where you put it that the noise you're concerned with is loudest. Then you can go from there. You'll probably hear LOTS of noises in there, but concentrate on the one you're concerned with. Be carefull, too, to keep any probes/rods AWAY from external moving parts (i.e., belts, pulleys, linkages)! If you don't desire to do this yourself, you probably can find a mechanic somewhere that can do it and then let you hear what he finds out. Could also be that the dealership mechanics know what they've talking about too. Enjoy! NTX5467

Dexron IV???? As far as I know, and what we get from GM, Dexron III is the lastest version, which superceded Dexron IIE (which came out with the first computer controlled GM automatics). Usually, in the aftermarket brands, you'll see Dexron III and Mercon IV as the same product. Mercon V is a part synthetic base atf. I know of some transmission shops that use that in GM transmissions too, possibly for the better heat resistance of the part synthetic base oil. Pennzoil and a few other brands now have a "universal" atf that covers Dexron III, Mercon V, and Chrysler ATF+3 specs in one fluid. Several years ago, there was an article in an auto trans trade publication about automatic trans fluids. At that time, there was a problem with some of the Turbo Hydramatic 440 transaxles about slow engagement in cold weather. The shop's owner's wife had a Lumina with that problem, so he figured it was time for a fluid & filter change, so he did that and used his "house" Dexron III fluid. The problem persisted. He scratched his head as he'd never had any problems with that fluid before. Being inquisitive, he called the local GM dealer and ordered some of their GM-branded Dexron III fluid. He brought the Lumina back in and changed the fluid, saving the fluid he drained out. With the GM-branded fluid, the problem went away. Still scratching his head, he drained it out and put the earlier fluid back in. Problem returned. So he put the GM fluid back in and let his wife have the car back. Still wondering why the GM fluid "worked" and the other name brand he'd been using didn't, he had some testing done and discovered the GM fluid was a good bit better in many respects than the fluid he'd been using. So, when he encountered that problem with other transmissions, instead of risking a dissatisfied customer he put the GM fluid in those transmissions. Key point -- GM might have an aftermarket company build their Dexron III fluid for them, even a company that has their own brand of fluid, BUT if it's in a GM package, that means it's built to GM's bid specs and not what somebody thinks it should be, even if the other fluid meets the Dexron III specs. There are also several aftermarket brands that have synthetic Dexron III atf. GM also has a good "Automatic Transmission Conditioner" that is a detergent and seal conditioner. Not a "miracle 30 minute" fix, as it recommends 1000 miles of use before draining, but it will clean things up internally before you do the fluid change. Sometimes, it's better to do a "slow clean" than a "wham bam" cleaning. In reality, though, getting things cleaned up internally, putting a good quality Dexron III fluid with a quality transmission filter in the trans might well cure the problems you have. If the fluid colors "dark" soon after the fluid change, then you might need to do another fluid only change in the near future. The "transmission flush" operations were popular for a while, but how "good" there are can depend on who does them, what machines they use, and if they get all of the lines hooked back up properly when they are finished. Plus, those flushes typically do not include dropping the pan and changing the filter--that's a separate deal. In some cases, they've caused more problems than they were worth, expecially after a few underhood fires (from improperly re-connected lines). It might be messier and more time consuming to drop the pan twice, but that might still be the best way to do it. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

I suspect we might know what the "intent" of the "driven to the meet" orientation of the Driven Class is, but the issues of "ferry use" might need to be considered. IF, the ferry is considered a "section of moveable roadway" and not a "boat", then everything could work "as stated", yet the driven distance would be what was on the vehicle's odometer and nothing other than that. If the ferry is considered to be a "type of boat", then that would be something totally different. Of course, if the vehicle was shipped to a Port of Entry and then driven to the meet from there, that would be open for discussion too. Yet, I believe we are most probably in agreement that the intent of the class was, as Keith mentioned, for the vehicle to be driven to the meet and not trailered a substantial distance to the meet's locale, then unloaded at the city limits, and then driven to the meet location on surface roads/streets, for example. Proposal: If, in the route from the Driven Class entrant's residence to the BCA National Meet, it is possible and somewhat advantageous to use a route that might include the use of a "ferry" as part of that route, whether it be for convenience, necessity, or a less stressful trip, that section of the journey would be considered to be part of the "driven distance" to the meet, with "driven distance" being defined as the indicated mileage on the vehicle's odometer. I perceive the main issue is the intent that the vehicle in the Driven Class be driven to the meet from the participant's residence and not the total distance driven per se. Many of these "distance" issues would be more important if there was or will be a "Longest Distance Driven" award in the Driven Class. I also suspect we would appreciate the efforts a member went to if they had their vehicle shipped to a Port of Entry and then driven from that point to the BCA National Meet (as happened in Flint with the entrants from Germany) and entered the Driven Class. Key thing would be that the nautical miles, whether on a ferry or a regular boat, would not be counted as the "total distance driven" whereas the actual land miles (from the residence to the shipping port and then from the USA Port of Entry to the BCA National Meet) would be important. If there were any disputes as to mileage driven, then one of the computerized Internet mapping websites could be used to verify the route traveled and the mileage involved. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

In ANY vehicle, there are some things that need to move and other that do not. For every place you take movement or deflection out of the equation, those forces will most probably be moved to a place that they should not be OR will compromise reliability of particular parts that now must absorb those torques, bending moments, and vibrations. To my knowledge, there is NO rubberized or polyurethane product that you can buy that will fully take the place of the highly refined elastometric "rubber" that is the "rubber" medium in those mounts, much less reliably mold -- AND CURE -- it in an "in the field" environment. I have heard of people using a Devcon90 product to build front suspension sway bar bushings with, but the type of action that sway bar sees is highly different than engine mounts, where you not only have vibration absorption issues to deal with, but supporting many hundreds of pounds of weight plus separation and compression forces (reaction to engine torque) too. If you did find the exact product they use in the mounts, the supplier will probably not sell it in tubes, but bulk quantities. If, per chance, you could buy it in a single tube or caulking gun tube, the cost could be well past the $30.00 range per tube, I suspect, and it could well take nearly three tubes by the time you're finished and ready for the mounts to cure. Such large blocks of liquid or gell polyurethane would take many hours, even days, to fully cure at ambient room temperatures too. You would be better off to buy the already-made polyurethane mounts from established vendors in that market. But, modern elastomeric mounts will last for a very long time provided they are kept free of engine fluids that might have leaked/seeped out and have settled on the mounts. Plus, whereas the elastomeric mounts might deteriorate and get soft with age, the polyurethane items will split, which will lead to MUCH unwanted movement. Typically, the split pieces could also fall out after their failure, causing more problems. It might be a challenge to rebuild the mounts, but the best long term fix is to replace them and be done with it. What you perceive you might save with your project, you can much more than make up for in frustration and vehicle down time. You might have more time on your hands than money, but you might use that free time to legally find a way to get the money to finance the new "factory OEM style" mounts. Many people use those polyurethane items to limit deflection for various purposes in the suspension of vehicles. There are some good uses for it too, as in sway bar link bolt grommets or support bushings (where they can aid handling) or even in control arm bushings too. Using them for engine and trans mounts in a street car that you're going to drive every day might be questionable (vibration and noise transmission issues). The only one I might consider using would be the trans mount. Back when racers "thought" they needed solid engine (side) mounts, the result was the outer castings of the engine block cracked (where the engine side of the mount bolted on) from having to absorb the torque forces they were not really strong enough to consistently handle, as in the tugging and compression from torque reaction during drag racing situations. One reason why the "front motor mounts" in those applications are the better way to do things, if the particular racing class allows them. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

It's possible that many of the newer design vehicles might "all look alike", other than the front end and tail lights. I suspect the recent "slab sided" look could well be driven by cost-to-produce issues, just as the "deeper drawn" (i.e., thicker) doors allegedly cost about $25.00/car more to produce than thin "more shallow drawn" doors do (at least that's what I read in an industry trade paper a few months ago). I think the pricing will be between mid-$20K to low $30K, depending on options and model. All things considered, I highly suspect that deeply sculptured side contours are a thing of the past, except possibly on the higher priced brands. If the one you saw had the 3.6L VVT V-6, then it should have been one of the higher trim level vehicles. The Trusty 3800 Series III (with fly-by-wire throttle) should be in the base and mid-level models. Looks like it ought to be a pretty nice car. Just wish there were more chrome accents on the interior--like to cover those "precision seams" where the trim panels meet. Modern interiors just seem a little bland to me, not to mention that brown wood does not really look good against graphite-colored interiors--at least to me. In some respects, many look very similar to others in design and architecture as each manufacturer tries to chase those "popular" import name plates. Oh well . . . Enjoy! NTX5467

I, too, like to see the things (i.e., water pump, starter, alternator, a/c compressor) all where I can see AND get to them easily. Probably one of the best late model vehicles in that respect is the Camry VVTi 4-cylinder, from what I've seen. When the GM people were justifying their placement of the starter in the Northstar, when it was a "new" engine, the dialog regarded the enhanced reliability of the starters and such. In reality, that's pretty true. It might look like a nightmare to get to, but the main thing is pulling the intake manifold off, plus the cost of the new seals to do that. Not like jacking things up and unbolting it as in prior times, but still not beyond what a competent mechanic can do (which I've seen done). But then, how many "typical" Cadillac owners will wrench on their newer cars? In short, we just don't see that much inquiry about starters for Northstars, either in the shop or on the customer counter. The worst thing about the Northstar's water pump is the "quick assembly" method to install it. Pretty slick, just put the outer o-ring seal on and twist it into place and locks against the appropriate locking tabs. There's a special tool to do that with too, but it usually breaks. When you start to change it after it's been on there several years (and many times upwards of 100K miles), that little seal o-ring has "glued" the pump to the housing. This is where the special tool usually breaks the first time. Then it can be "hammer and chisel" time. Still, we don't see too much volume on those parts either, considering the number of Northstars that are out there. So, some of these things that might be "issues" are not really issues, until they get to the 2nd or 3rd owner or so. We've been through the issue with the DOHC I-6 engine in prior discussions. In reality, from what we've seen, those engines are very reliable, but nothing will compensate for "customer" issues. Again, very little service work needed other than regular maintenance, by observation. I also suspect that if you start looking for engine parts, there will be very few dealers with any in stock--there's a reason for this, not related to "changing assemblies" specifically either. I really would not consider the Camry as a LeSabre competitor as it's more in the Impala price area. Avalon? Maybe, but then at the Park Avenue ride & drive event when the PA was new, they had an Avalon for one of the comparison vehicles. If you look at a top level Avalon, that little "high class Camry" is really in the PA's price area. Yet, if you compare the pricing for what you get, just looking at items standard and optional on the Avalon window sticker, it makes the PA look like a pretty good value. THEN look at fuel economy! That little item makes the PA or LeSabre look like an even better value in the long run, even considering depreciation. Lexus, most probably, is a better "target" vehicle for a Buick competitor than not. Buick's been hinting at Lexus with some of their little styling cues for a good while, especially with the Regals. It's somewhat common for car companies to "follow the sales leader" in styling cues and such. That's been going on for a long time, so with the high level Japanese cars being the market "leaders", then THEIR "conservative" styling has been the "benchmark" of sorts. So, don't really fault Cadillac DeVilles for being "bland" as the similar Lexus models are not the most dynamic styling exercises on the road. As I've said before, if I had the choice of a DeVille or a Park Avenue, I'd take the PA without thinking, even the Ultra too, as I perceive the PA to be the best value and something I'd feel more comfortable owning and driving. Just my preference . . . value, styling, "traditional American Luxury", performance, fuel economy, and less maintenance cost (that little Buick V-6 only needs about 4.5 quarts with an oil change instead of the 7.5 (approx) quarts of oil that many Northstars take on each oil change. Warranty coverage? Yep, that's a marketing point--Chrysler proved that in the early '60s when they did the first 5/50 warranty on new vehicles. In modern times, I don't perceive it's the strong marketing tool it used to be. No matter how long the basic coverage might be, there can be loopholes that require an "extended" warranty to cover. Just how much those longer warranties on the Hyundais and such really matter to the second owner might be reflected in their transfer rates to the subsequent owners (probably for a nominal fee and paper work, as is usually the case). Currently, there are some things that are covered under an 8/80 warranty on Cadillacs (not just body rust through coverage!). So, before a warranty can be fully evaluated, you need to read the fine print as to what is or is not covered and what any deductibles might be, if any. What might look good on the surface can really be "not quite so good" when you read the fine print--especially on extended warranties. Matt, you mentioned the "4 bucket seated luxury" in your comments. Have you seen the new Maxima with that option? Really pretty neat with the console extending fully from the instrument panel to between the two rear seating positions. By the way, Matt, pretty neat articles in "The Bugle"! Great pictures too! Somebody mentioned the manufacturers controlling initial supply of new vehicles to help keep demand high for the products. Other than the quality issues of a new vehicle, as they relate to getting production fully ramped up, that can happen. But the other side of things is that Chrysler really lacks the production capacity to really be a threat to GM or even Ford, BUT as with the first Ram pickup, they CAN do some things differently that gets the public's attention and imagination that can cause GM and Ford to alter their prior paths to "keep up". Then, Chrysler and Dodge are the ones being chased in the product desireability and design "wars", even though they can't dominate the total sales numbers. One other thing that relates to products moving "upscale". Many "trappings" of being a higher level vehicle these days include much more complicated electronic architectures in the vehicles and the "requisite" DOHC engines. In many cases, reliability and durability are sufficient for them to get out of the manufacturer's basic warranty period and to the end of the payment book--many things last a good bit past that too. Therefore, that first owner really doesn't have to pay for fixing those things as they are still under the manufacturer's warranty or an extended warranty purchased with the new car deal. Here comes the second or third owner after the vehicle has about 125,000 miles or so on it. Doesn't matter if it's a Mercedes or Lexus or Cadillac or Toyota, it's going to cost to fix things that break or quit working. If maintenance "down the road" was really an issue, those cars ought to be dogs on the used car lots, or is it the natural "gambler" orientations that many consumers have? Or do the possibly lower prices (due to greater depreciation) justify the possibly higher repair costs? Or do these later owners really not care or know about those things and just deal with them as they happen, as part of owning that fancy car? Or do they tap into the reasonably large network of independent repair shops that "know" those cars and their quirks and failure-prone areas, plus know which aftermarket parts are the best value? I'll concur with Matt's basic proposed vehicle specs. I might put a wheelbase and length concern in the mix so that it would be long enough for some "good lines" and rear seat leg room, plus sufficient trunk space to support that "traditional American Vacation" activity of old, but have enough "chassis" under it to not be afraid of curves and bumps and dips. If it's going to have to have the larger 18" wheels, then it needs enough brake rotor to fill that rim. Those wheels NEED to be spiffy too and accent the vehicle instead of just "being there". In many respects, the current LeSabre is a good size spec, but the wheelbase could be lengthened a few inches to move the wheels out toward the vehicle's ends a little more, but not too much. Enough length to develop some neat styling "lines" too. Then add an inch or two to the interior width (that 3-abreast seating deal, but comfortably) for that added touch of spaciousness. Not a "land yacht" or "barge", but something a 6'3" person could get into and be comfortable, front AND back. Don't forget about having enough foot room under the front seats for the rear seat passengers' feet either! Lots of little things can really make a difference even if the vehicle is shorter. And let's make "easy to work on" in the mix too. Easy to get the oil filter out of the engine without dripping oil over the front subframe or body work, for example. Spark plugs might be in there for 100K miles, but put them where they are easy to get to, for that second or third owner, or the orginal owner that wants to change them if he keeps the car that long. Same with the starter, alternator, and such. Plus an access panel in the luggage comartment to remove the fuel tank fuel pump module too, which some Buicks already have. Easy to fix could well translate into "easy to assemble" too. Pricing? Lots of orientations there. Key issue is "value", which has many discussable areas too. The LeSabre or Park Avenue might cross pricepoints with Cadillac CTS and Lincoln LS, but I suspect a LeSabre or PA owner would not look at a CTS and vice versa, similar for the LS too--just my gut suspicion. Imagine the conversation at the water oooler between a CTS owner and a Park Avenue owner . . . "Gee, I could have gotten a lot more car for the money I spent on my LS". Of course, if the CTS was a V-Series, that conversaton might be different. I suspect the typical CTS or LS owner is more concerned about their luxury nameplate on the smaller vehicle, which might fit their dwelling and lifestyles better than the larger car, plus a more nimble package for where they drive rather than how much sheet metal they can buy for the same money. For some people, "Less IS More". In my "Honda Experience", one thing I was impressed with was the fuel economy of the 4 cylinder engine and how well it ran (once it got past that initial low rpm weakness). What I started noticing was that even when cruising on level Interstate at 60 mph or so, if I wanted to accelerate just about 2mph or so, it'd "grab another gear" and then the tach would head toward 3000rpm or so. When it reached the slightly higher speed, then it'd back down into OD and settle back into the normal cruise mode. The transaxle shifted very smooth, so there was no real clue as to what was going on other than a little more engine noise and the tach action. Seemed a little odd, considering how much power it had, but then it was "weak" below about 2500rpm, with the cruise rpm being below that. If I'd been in a hurry to gain that few extra mph, it'd been understandable, but with such an easy acceleration, it seemed a little unusual. Putting the Accord against the Camry or Impala or Regal, who would choose which one would most probably depend on a diverse group of factors and orientations--none of which would be completely without merit. Onward and upward! Enjoy! NTX5467

The way things are going with GM, already having "high feature" engines in the higher level vehicle lines (i.e., DOHC, 4 valve/cylinder), it would appear that Buick would be more closely aligned with the Northstar architecture than the Chevrolet-use pushrod V-8s and V-6s. Problem with the Northstar architecture is cost (assembly labor and all of those extra camshafts that can change timing and other related items controlled by computer input), which will dictate a higher priced vehicle. If there's a V-6 version, it will probably be the new 3.6L VVT V-6 or a variation thereof (which seems to be even more "ShortStar" than the previous DOHC 3.5L V-6 that was in the Intrigues and Auroras). Just my gut suspicions . . . One huge problem with one car covering the middle and higher price ranges is the same one that the beloved new Chrysler 300 has. Pricing from the middle $20s for the base 2.7L V-6 and then up to the higher $30K for the Hemi models, for example. To get that car into the lower price ranges, they still deliver a Chrysler 300, but without the leather steering wheel covering, the nicer sound system, less expensive seat covers, etc. The first one of these cars I rented was the base model, which had 3 whole miles on it when I got it. Grabbing a hold of that steering wheel was a turn-off. Felt like squishy plastic (the new Malibu has a similar feel, but is much firmer in feel), but the grain of it did perfectly match the instrument panel cover, though. The 2.7L might be needed for the export market, but with a heavier car than the previous Intrepids, the electronic throttle control was doing all it could to make that little engine carry that 4000lb car. Didn't need traction control! In short, it had the basic attributes of the fancier models the magazines have been raving about, but it was totally lackluster in so many areas. Or . . . was it because they were so good you didn't notice them? And then there was that somewhat athletic feel of the chassis of the earlier cars that was now gone, improved hardware notwithstanding. In short, NOT impressive. The second one I happened into was a 300 Touring, which meant more upscale trappings and the 3.5L V-6 with 250 horsepower. Also, a leather covered steering wheel. On this car, it was more of what I expected the car to be. Once I turned off the "ESP" traction control, or changed it into the "fun" mode, then the engine would spin the rear tires about as much as the earlier 300M did the front tires. The chassis felt firmer and more energetic about changing lanes and turning corners too. In other words, the car that Chrysler should have as the base model instead of paying extra for it. With the HEMI models, fancier trim still, although there's a non-HEMI fancier 3.5L V-6 model. Now, as the "powers that be" decided that Plymouth should sail off over the horizon, Chrysler has been trying to cover those price points with various models (including the base 300 and base Town&Country minivans). Now, in the grand plan of trying to move Chrysler "upscale/upmarket" (meaning in the $30K+ ranges), they are leaving a gap at the bottom. As things are now, the base Magnum "tourer" is only a little bit less money than the base 300. Where the new Charger will fit has yet to be determined. So, if Chrysler tries to move upward on the "scale" scale, in price and whatever else, that leaves a place for less expensive Dodges . . . but will also probably leave a gap at the bottom where Plymouth was as when Chrysler moves higher in the price ranges, Dodge will probably follow to a certain extent. Now, look at the Chevy Cavalier and the new Cobalt. Cobalt will probably be a much better car than Cavalier ever was -- and cost more too. Moving Cobalt up in the "scale" from what the Cavalier was. Hence, here comes Aveo to fill in the gap at the bottom, entry level car. Without Olds in the lineup any more, Pontiac has been on a "move up" situation too. Cadillac has the CTS for the middle $30K price point, but that doesn't totally compensate for the lack of an Olds in that price point region. With Cadillac also moving "up", then Buick will be tugged upward too, to a certain extent. None of this is new, though. When Chrysler discontinued DeSoto along about April 15, 1961, the Chrysler Newport models moved downward in price to cover the gap between Dodge's high priced models and the existing Chrysler models. Dodge fancied up their fancier models to catch the lower side of where DeSoto had been. Hence, Dodge moved up a little on their high end and Chrysler moved down a little in their base models to cover the gap where DeSoto had been. So, all of these grand plans to move various carlines upscale will always leave gaps somewhere. If one model/body style of vehicle is to cover about a price range of $25K to $40K, as the current Chrysler 300 does, there needs to be something "at the top" to justify the exclusivity of that higher price point. In the case of the 300, it's the HEMI V-8. Initial production of the 300 was supposed to be about 100,000 cars, or which 40% were planned to be HEMI Cs--it's running closer to 60% HEMI Cs, though. As Matt mentioned, the "product" drives sales. The new 300 looks the part too, but with appropriate "heritage cues" (as they now call them) that give it a family heritage look that goes all the way back to the C-300 in 1955. Similar in concept to the Buick grille. Plus product "perceptions" that "make" people buy certain import models too. For some reason, it seems that Ford and Chrysler can effectively play their existing model names to their advantage better than GM seems to be able to, but change the sheet metal the nameplates are attached to in the process. Is it a "name recognition" issue? Yet, the GM operatives desire to have new names to go with their new sheetmetal so people will talk about "that new Buick _________", in the orientation that it'll generate more salesfloor traffic and get more new people into the dealerships. Just as with economics, marketing orientations have so many variables that you can make positives out of negatives and vice versa. Chrysler is highly successful with its models that have high name recognition and GM wants new names that no body knows (even if they do have some prior history as a Buick showcar or something). WE would know what "Blackhawk" would mean, but some might confuse it with the ill-fated Lincoln Blackwood "fancy truck". If GM's going to put a new name on the LeSabre replacement, they need to use something from the '60s that has a dramatic "ring" to it. "Wildcat" and "Electra" are two that always seemed to sound good to me. And we all know that Wildcats were in the same price class as Chrysler 300 models were, the non-letter 300s that is. And Electras sold against similarly priced Chrysler New Yorkers. Seems pretty easy to me. The other thing to consider is how the new Buick model will interface with the Cadillacs and Pontiacs it'll probably share a platform with. Let the new "LeSabre" type Buick be toward the Pontiac side of things and the "Park Avenue" type be more toward Cadillac, just as it is now. Engines? The Bonneville V-8 is still the same 4.6L Northstar that Cadillac uses, although the earlier press said it would be a smaller version. They put the lower power version in the Pontiacs, but of the 4.6L Northstar V-8. Maybe they can do a larger Northstar for the Cadillacs and juggle displacements with the Buicks and Pontiacs. Again, remember that Dodges, DeSotos, and Chryslers all used Hemis in the '50s, but with different bore/stroke combinations to produce different engine sizes unique to each carline? Remember, too, all of GM's engines are now "GM Powertrain" engines. Chevrolet might have pretty much exclusive use of the LS1 V-8s in cars and light trucks, but the Northstar engines are only for the higher priced carlines. Similarly, the new Pontiac G6 will have a version of the new Vortec 3.5L V-8 (used in the new Malibu) that will be 3.9L in size. Where Buicks might fit into those strategies might be open for discussion after the beloved Buick 3800 V-6 goes away. But, I don't think many would complain about a GMPowertrain LS2 6.0L V-8 under the hood of a larger Buick, provided the chassis would let you fully use the power it had. But instead of having 400 horsepower, let it be a torquemonster of the breed, so it'd have a Buick flavor to it. Then put it in front of an advanced GMPowertrain 6-speed automatic transmission. Several possibilities. After looking at the new Cadillas STS the other afternoon, I was very impressed with the interior refinement, plus choice of textures and color/type of woodgrain trim. That chassis could generate a Buick or two, but if they are going to use one body to replace the LeSabre and Park Avenue, there'd better be more differentiation than there is with the Chrysler 300s. Contrary to what some might envision, the higher priced car needs to have a longer wheelbase on a longer body, resulting in the luxury of rear seat leg room. Can't do the same thing as with the LaCrosse where the higher level car gets the DOHC engine and sportier suspension tuning on the same body of car. Just my orientation. We also know that to not send the traditional Buick and Cadillac owners straight to the Lincoln/Mercury dealers, there will need to be a split bench front seat and a column shift, something the current STS does not have. Don't need to repeat that lapse of judgment as it was with the last generation Aurora and the previous Delta 88 owners. So . . . lets have a Buick Wildcat as the LeSabre replacement and then put "Electra" on the higher priced version, that would be a technological and styling and engineering capstone vehicle for Buick. Those names "work" and with the same degree of product finesse as the new STS displays, the product can "work" too. New names but still "Buick names"! As for the issue of wheel size, 18" wheels is plenty "big". The 300s have similar wheel diameters too. Besides, if they went to factory 20s, then that would NOT guarantee there would not be something "better" in the aftermarket. PLUS, an oportunity for the GM Parts organization to have some "factory authorized" wheel/tire packages with 20s. Bigger wheels need to have bigger brakes behind them. As there's a certain spatial relationship between the tire/wheel and the vehicle body, "big" is not always better. Consider "real world" situations where the roads are not always smooth. All of the harshness that is not absorbed by the tire's sidewall comes into the chassis somewhere and somehow. Not to mention the "safety factor" for when you don't see that curb at the bank drive-thru. Those "short sidewall" tires on larger diameter wheels might look neat, but they are much more vulnerable to damage from pot holes and such--even on the 60 series tires on the current Grand Ams. Then there's the issue of longer stopping distances with just a change to 18s or 20s from 16s. Some of this can be addressed with different brake pad compounds, but it typically means larger brake rotors and such too. ALL of that means more initial cost to the customer that might not need or appreciate it. Several different orientations. Not having 20s from the factory has not hurt the 300s either. In reality, what tends to make the 300 "work" as is, to me, is that the designers have successfully kept "the essence" of what the earlier models were, but put it into a completely modern vehicle. Same styling and advanced (for the time) engineering attributes, but in different decades. GM can do the same thing for Buick without pricing it into the stratosphere, but still staying under the $50K price points that the larger Cadillacs seems to have staked out from all directions. Sure, the higher priced Buicks will have prices that will overlap the Cadillac CTS, but the higher priced Buick's customer is typically not a CTS customer. There's always been price overlaps between the GM divisions anyway. Part of the greater choices you have with American vehicles. The reason the Chrysler Pacifica and also the Cadillac SRX got off to slow sales starts was that too many of the more option laden models were produced first. People saw this neat product but balked at the price with all of the goodies on it, and went elsewhere. After the product mix was reconfigured to include the more basic, but still nicely equipped models (of the Pacifica and the SRX), then sales rebounded somewhat. Unfortunately, it took about 6 months for that to happen. Lease rates? Highly affected by perceived "hotness" of the model and desireability of the used vehicles. I've watched some lease residuals for some cars, in their initial model year, be very high or at least higher than other cars in their price/status class. Next years model? Much more realistic residuals in the leasing price books. Higher demand means higher lease residuals just as they also equate into higher prices on the used car lot. I recently spent about three days with a new Honda Accord 4-cylinder sedan. How did I do this? It was a vehicle from the Thrifty car rental fleet in Columbus, OH. Yep, a Honda Accord "rent car"! Kind of makes those comments about the Buick Centurys in the car rental fleets have a new meaning? I was impressed in some areas, but surprised in others. Some things the average owner might not notice too, but I did. I would rather have one more than a similar Camry, for sure, as the Honda impressed me as being more "crafted" than "assembled". Yet, still a few areas and details that I was surprised they didn't do better with. Plus the keyless remote that would not open the deck lid unless I pressed it hard with the tip of my fingernail . . . Still, it's a neat car in many respects. Enjoy! NTX5467

The website for the reman units is www.gmusedparts.com. The prices look really good compared to a unit from the dealership. I have not used that company so their mention is NOT an endorsement of any kind, just for information only. They also state a "lifetime warranty" so that should could for something. In any case, be an informed shopper and be sure that what you get fits your specific year of engine, plus any necessary gaskets or other things to complete the job. The pulley on the nose of the supercharger is a press fit situation. It takes a special puller to get it off. Their lifetime warranty specifically is voided if the aftermarket underdrive supercharger pulley is installed, if that matters in your case. I somewhat suspect that your wife's comments might change when she puts her foot in the throttle sometime--just my gut suspicion. Enjoy! NTX5467

If you haven't checked earlier, make sure the vacuum supply lines to the basic vacuum reservoir under the hood (which could use a manifold vacuum port or a tap from the vacuum line at the power brake booster) and then to the control head in the instrument panel and then to the programmer under the passenger side of the instrument panel are all in good shape. There might be some electronic sensors, but modulating and directing vacuum to particular parts of the programmer servos is what makes things work with regard to changing the air flow to different functions. With a "normal" systen, when the air goes to the defroster and floor vents, that's the default mode for a loss of vacuum to the control head--might be similar with the automatic systems too. If the vacuum tap is at the power brake booster, it could also supply vacuum to the cruise control system too. It might be a good idea to find a GM Parts book (earlier edition) that might have a more detailed picture of the system you have than the more current versions in the computerized parts database systems we now have. This can be more informative, as to where things are located, than the GM service manual for the car might be. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

I'll admit that I have no knowledge of how the spring should be configured, but one from something like a '69 or so Chevy might work as it's just a spring that wraps around two pegs, one on the valve and another on the butterfly that's attached to a counterweighted shaft. If the shaft has that much wear on it, it might be best to find a repair kit or similar NOS part? Otherwise, brazing it up might be the best alternative. A little manifold gray paint after a little dressing of the braze and that might take care of the whole deal. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

At the dealership level, the supercharger is only serviced as a reman assembly--no nose piece or any other part of it is available separately from GM. In other words, GM does not want any tech in the field doing anything that could be done better in a much more controlled environment by people who deal with these things daily--especially if they might be paying the bill for a warranty repair (which this might not be anyway, but that's how they configure parts replacement issues many times). Replacement parts and sub-assemblies are available from aftermarket vendors. Check the www.RegalGS.org or some of the Pontiac Grand Prix boards for much more detailed information on where these sub-assemblies can be obtained. I found a particular website for these items a while back, and think I might still have it saved on my work computer. Seems like the bearings in the nose piece are the most common to fail so that item is available as a bolt-on item. The first year of supercharged 3800s had a "non-serviceable" nose piece. After that initial year, there are oil ports in the nose piece to change the supercharger oil every 50,000 miles (GM recommendations). The supercharger oil is a GM lube also, mostly stocked by the Pontiac dealers. Any GM dealer can provide you with that part number, which is in the "Standard Parts" section of the GM parts database, in the Special Lubricants section. They can most probably pull up a list of stocking dealers in your area via the "D2D Link" or you can do it via www.partsvoice.com. I know the nose piece bearings are probably the most common to fail, as that's where the main pressure from the drive belt is first encountered by the shaft. Yet, that front bearing can act as a lever arm to put more force on the other bearings in the housing too. Therefore, you might be better off to change the whole supercharger unit (also available from the aftermarket vendors) than just the front nose piece--in the long run. Putting new bearings on a worn shaft might not be a good idea either. The supercharger might not spin as fast as a turbocharger's impeller, but it still runs quite a bit faster than crankshaft speed. When I get to work, I'll see if I still have that website saved, but you might do a Google search or searches in the Grand Prix or RegalGS.org sites just in case I deleted it. Seems like somebody was selling "overstock" units a while back too? Enjoy! NTX5467

Consider that if an engine block suddenly warps or distorts, it's NOT going to be in such a great amount without making the block totally unuseable. Meaning, the crank will not turn, the cam will not turn, etc. If the block was machined correctly when it was done at the engine plant, it should still be architectually sound in that respect. If it's gotten this far in its life, that would prove it was done correctly "back when". Make sure you are using known accurate distributors for that particular engine and not something that people claim "will fit" or is from a reman "pile". You can check the numbers stamped on the distributors for that information. Even if it's not for your particular engine and year, if it's from the same engine family, it should usually fit UNLESS there were some year-model-specific changes to the block and/or distributor that might not let it fit properly when you suspect it should. I concur that distributor shafts and oil pump shafts usually do intersect in a generally straight line, as you would expect. The type of mis-match you describe is not as the factory engineers designed it, I suspect. No side loadings should be happening (as you describe) anywhere in the oil pump shaft/distributor shaft interface. Basically, recheck all of your engine numbers to determine if the distributors you've been getting (from whatever source) as the ones to actually fit your engine AND then make sure they are seated firmly and squarely on the appropriate mounting surface of the block. Where's the distributor that was in the engine initially, or when you bought it? A too long distributor shaft might also be an issue and result in the cocking of the shaft when you try to tighten it down. Many things to make sure or and verify before you get to where you can say the block is the problem! Hopefully, the engine has the correct oil pump and related shaft in it too! Just some thoughts, NTX5467

Ken, for good measure, you might get a manual oil pressure gauge and screw it into the block to see what the real oil pressure is at idle so you have a general idea of what the "normal" area of the car's gauge might be. Did the machine shop possibly shim the relief spring in the oil pump when they did the work, possibly? A stiffer spring will usually result in higher oil pressure, or a softer spring that is shimmed can do pretty much the same thing, at all rpm levels. Higher pressure might take a few extra horsepower to run the oil pump, but as mentioned, it's better than not enough oil pressure. Enjoy! NTX5467

As great as some events get to be, even from more modest earlier days, they can become less tolerable to participate in as time goes on. The other side of that deal is that it keeps the past legends of Woodward Avenue alive for those whose parents might have "played that venue" or had friends that did. It's great that the car companies are also involved in promoting the event too! While the younger enthusiasts might still like to be on the street, in many cases you can have just as much fun by parking your car early, walking around, and watching the parade of vehicles. Just depends on your personal tolerance levels and what your vehicle will similarly tolerate too. One of those situations were you participate at the level of your tolerance and enjoy as much as you can stand. Enjoy! NTX5467

One issue with the "new" vs. "replated" items being mixed could involve the "color" of the chrome plating. Look at the chrome bumpers on a Ford pickup and then look at the same things on a Toyota pickup and it's quite obvious. Factory chrome can also have grinder marks in the base metal (usually only seen under a light at a particular angle to the part) whereas the rechromed items will be totally smooooooth--although each one will look smooth until you put them both side by side and checked for buffer marks. I've seen this on door handles, for example. Once you know what you're looking at, you can tell if it's OEM, repro, or rechromed. Iverson does advertise that he does pot metal items in addition to his other products. He also has some stainless steel polish too. From what I saw this past week of his display nameplate scripts that were redone, they are definitely better than concours quality, but would certainly make OEM items look like they need to be plated too. One thing leads to another . . . Just some thoughts, NTX5467

If the heat crossover in the intake manifold is not carboned-up or otherwise restricted, you could already effectively have a "blocked heat riser" situation (i.e., a "cold" manifold). In that case, as I found out, it can magnify the exhaust pulses in the manifold with the heat riser mechanism. Things are far from smooooooth in those pressure pulses! In the '60s and '70s, when heat riser valves would rattle (and people didn't like it then either), this was a good thing as it usually meant the valve was still working. If the shaft's bronze bushings in the exhaust manifold were too tight, then "no rattle" meant "no workie" (due to the friction drag of the bushings on the shaft) eventually. In my case in my '77 Camaro 305, the vacuum operated heat riser "actuator" started rattling loudly. The rod had come off of the ball stud on the heat riser valve as the ball stud was now oval-shaped instead of being a "ball". When we changed the engine several months later, the exhaust crossover in the intake was solidly carboned up (after 400K+ miles). When we could keep the rod on what was left of the ball stud, it was quiet, but otherwise the unrestricted valve would violently swing open and closed against it's residual spring pressure (due to the exhaust pulses being "pulses"). Your existing heat riser thermostat spring might be having some age issues, but I suspect (from my experiences mentioned above) that there might be something else making it worse than it should otherwise be. In many cases, a "cold" manifold might not cause any driveability issues in the colder times of the year, but you might need to also tweak the automatic choke adjustment and use some of the fancy spark plugs to mask the warm-up driveability issues that might result from less exhaust heat in the intake manifold. The degree that these issue might happen is somewhat variable (fuels, air temperatures, carburetor issues, "state of tune" issues) from vehicle to vehicle. Tacking the valve "open" is an old hot rod trick that many have used in other situations too. Whether you check the heat crossover in the intake or remove the exhaust manifold, there'll be some work involved. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

Get a competent technician--not an auto supply store!--to pull the codes and see why the light is on. "Running great" does not mean that a minor issue (i.e., loose gas cap on the later OBD II vehicles) is turning on the light. It nees to be out. Black tape is NOT an option (and might not send the correct signals to anyone that might see the car about the vehicle's maintenance). Unhooking the battery for a certain period of time will make the computer "lose it's trouble code memory", but that does not mean that what set the code initially will not cause it to be set again. Seems like there's also a "50 start" criteria in the mix too. Unhooking the battery also means resetting all of the radio presets and similar things--not to mention setting the "Theftlock" feature that "locks" the radio until it's "unlocked" with an appropriate code, so the radio doesn't "think" it's been stolen--if the radio has that feature. Getting the codes diagnosed and dealt with is the best option. There's a reason they happen. Plus, they most probably will need to be dealt with prior to getting your state's vehicle inspection too. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

Typically, as the fan clutches decrease in sales, the "more specific application" items will be replaced by more "will fit" or "universal" part numbers. That typically means, among other things, the "4 slot" flange where it bolts to the water pump instead of the "4 hole" flange. One other critical item is the "pilot hole" where the clutch fits the water pump snout, as it needs to be of the correct diameter if the mounting flange is of the universal configuration. When the manufacturer looks at engineering a particular application, they look at lots of little issues that might be important with a new vehicles, but as the vehicles age, if the cut-in temp is 5 degrees different, for example, it might not be quite so important. Hence, with time the replacement companies will combine their part numbers into more general application part numbers (i.e., more universal fit). Therefore, the clutch you might find on the open market today might not look like the one that came on the vehicle from the factory, not to consider the "thermal" versus "viscous coupling" issues or different front and rear castings of the clutch halves. At this point in time, having the shaft length being close to what it should be with the correct pilot hole diameter being much more important than if the clutch kicks in at 190 degrees of 195 degrees, for example. You might also check out some of the online parts websites that have really good catalogs online, just to see what's out there and what the brands and part numbers might be for them. NAPA also has an online catalog function too. It can be a little involved to use, but www.rockauto.com is a site I go to every so often when chasing something that everybody might not know how to look up. In other words, just because one parts source might not have something, don't give up until you are sure that others don't have it either. Usually, if one company has it, others will too as the number of production facilities making a particular part is very probably very low, yet everybody sells it in their own packaging with different numbers. In the case you might not find the particular application, if you can find an old vendor parts book (TRW or DANA Corp Fan Clutches, AC-Delco Air Conditioning Illustrated Catalog, for example) that has a chart of the shaft lengths and other mounting specs (and was released early enough to have "real" listings for the desired vehicle), then you might find another application that is still available that might work, but would fit a Chevy or Cadillac or Brand Z, for example. ALSO be cognizant that some of the later models have "reverse rotation" water pumps, hence the little arrow showing rotation cast into many pumps front casting. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

Those parts will be "manufacturer only" items. No "auto parts" store sources. If you can't get the parts from a GM dealer somewhere, then your other alternative would be the salvage yard people--who will ALSO sell you the complete tail lamp assembly and not a part off of it (as selling a part off of an assembly like that would basically make the resulting assembly "non-saleable" to them). It might be that the only difference in the GS and non-GS item is the black paint that might not be there on the regular model's part. Even if the new part, if available, might seem expensive, just consider how much time YOU would spend going from salvage yard to salvage yard to see if they have what you need AND if it's in good enough condition for you to buy. Calling on the phone can be a good tactic, but many yard operators might not know every vehicle in their inventory so somebody's going to have to go out into the yard to search potential vehicles for a good item, unless they are a "dismantler" that already has removed them from the vehicle. End result, the best way to find what you want is to make a trip to any potential salvage yards yourself. Remember, too, that if you purchase a used item, it could well be getting ready to have the same problem that your item already has--therefore, no net gain for lots of time, fuel, and money invested. Consider ALL of these side issues before you determine if the dealership price is too much, but THAT's your judgement call as it's your money, time, and fuel. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

I suspect that most OHV American V-8s will be "interference" in nature. Meaning that if the timing chain breaks, there could well be a few bent valves. A few bent valves don't "destroy" an engine unless they crack the affected pistons, which is not too common. Usually, a valve job (which the engine might have been getting ready to need anyway, with attention to valve guide clearances too) plus checking the push rods for straightness might be all that's needed to put things back in good working order. With the OHC motors, the hydraulic lash adjusters probably don't have the "travel" that hydraulic valve lifters in OHV motors do. The additional internal travel might help limit potential damage in the OHV motors when valves might contact pistons. In many of the later low compression motors, it's not nearly as critical as it was in the old 10.0 compression ratio days as the piston top is much deeper "in the hole" and away from the valves at TDC. I concur, loss of power and backfiring is usually a timing chain issue, BUT could also be an ignition module that went away too (although that might not keep the engine from turning over--unless one of the backfires while cranking jammed the starter drive, possibly). Usually, when an engine "jumps time", the plastic timing gear portion of the cam sprocket fails and the timing jumps one notch retarded (lower power, backfiring) and then it can totally fail. Timing chains that break aren't that common, from my observations, but failed composite material (plastic on metal) cam sprokets for those general year of engines were. In some of the Buick V-8s, there was something about the oil pump drive/distributor interface that could cause problems suddenly, but not usually backfiring per se. Just as the electric fuel pump can go away over time due to fuel filter restrictions, the ignition coil and module and distributor rotor can do similar if the ignition has to produce too much voltage to fire the plugs. The spring loaded carbon contact in an HEI cap does not have to be there to fire the plugs, BUT it'll make the coil work harder to produce the fire to jump the gap, hence more heat. No dielectric grease to provide the heat sink to keep the HEI igniton module cool will similarly cause the module to fail from getting too hot. I don't know if your system is the GM HEI unit, but these are just some ignition-related issues that can cause some of the symptoms you mentioned. Enjoy! NTX5467

For that amount of money, and considering the car "died" while driving, it sounds more like the "fuel pump module" than the "fuel injection system" to me--just my gut suspicion. Two related, but different, situations! IF there is not a certain level of fuel pressure, then the injectors will not fire. Hence, my suspicion that the fuel pump area is where the repair will need to start--PLUS a new fuel filter, whose maintenance can make a fuel pump go bad as when the filter becomes restricted with time, it makes the pump draw more amperage to run, sometimes melting the wires on the sending unit in the process. Fuel injectors are a different item--and 6 of them. If the tech has no knowledge of the fuel injection/fuel pressure interaction (there's a pressure checking port on the fuel injection fuel rail under the hood), then he might be starting at the wrong end of the car. Fuel injectors will make the vehicle run "funny" or get poor fuel mileage, but not kill the motor. Depending on sources, fuel injectors are usually around $100.00+ each (six of them) and the fuel pump could be about $100.00 too (possibly with a new strainer being extra), but if the sending unit needs replacement too, that could at about another $350.00 to the pump replacement price (working from general memory here) plus applicable labor charges. By comparison, finding a reman QuadraJet for an Olds 307 V-8 was very well past $1000.00 last time I looked, with rebuilds of same (if you could find someone to do it) could be well past $300.00, as points of reference, but depending on locale and who does the work. Also, have them to a "tap test" on the Mass Air Flow Sensor. If, with the engine running at idle, you can "tap" on the sensor and it kills the engine, that's most likely the one item that could need replacement, provided everything else is operating ok. One neat thing about computer diagnostics is that, although there are a multitude of things that can cause running, not running, or any other variation in between, knowing what the codes mean for THAT PARTICULAR year model of vehicle (especially on the earlier systems!!!) can not only expedite the repair process by zeroing in on the exact and related causes, it can give the tech greater confidence in what they do. Therefore, having a high quality code scanner and the appropriate GM "decode" manual for that year of vehicle is highly important. In other words, no "generic" check engine light code. Also, the computer has a certain amount of memory in it, to store codes and also the operating parameters of when the check engine light was triggered. This is where a very good working knowledge of the computer system and a quality scanned can be invaluable. Yet many techs can still desire to "throw parts" at repairs and not get anywhere when, in fact, knowing what information's in the computer might help them build an effective "road map" to effective repairs--still they have to know what they are looking at when reading the codes, as in some codes relate to other codes. It looks like you've got many things replaced that would have needed to be replaced as time progressed, but sometimes the "low hanging fruit situation" will not totally guarantee that a few other things might not crop up either. With any fuel injected vehicle, fuel filter maintenance is important to prevent future expenses, but even mechanical fuel pumps wore out too. So, the fuel pressure check and then the tap test on the MAF might well be all that's needed to see where your problem is. DO make sure you understand what they will be replacing as details ARE IMPORTANT should any questions arise later. Enjoy! NTX5467

Wash the steering wheel with soapy water and then rinse with clean water. You can use a car wash sponge to do this and put lots of towels in your lap to catch the drips. This will be better than any cleaner you might use, unless there are some accumulations that are tough to get off. Combination of the vaporizing residues of the interior plastics with the body oil from the driver's hands are the main cause, over a period of time. Once you get it cleaned off, it will take just a few minutes to maintain it every so often. Same with the door panels and arm rests too. Too many cleaners will leave a residue that will tend to make matters worse in humid weather, also. Hope this helps, NTX5467

Seems like, if I recall correctly from magazines I was reading back then, that production stopped on April, 1961? Maybe April 15th like the other mid-year discontinuations that Chrysler has done (E-body Challenger/Barracudas, 1981 Chrysler Newport/New Yorkers)? I do recall that then-current DeSoto owners were offered a $100 or $200 extra allowance to trade their vehicles for another Chrysler product, if they should desire. Seems like the last DeSoto did look more like a Chrysler (which they probably shared many body parts with beginning with the 1959 models) than the flashier earlier DeSotos. In those earlier times, Chrysler's product divisions tended to mirror GM division for division. With more commonality in the mechanicals, it was easier for Chrysler to pull off a "consolidation or reconfiguration" of their model offerings than it would have been for GM to do similar. Better dealer support, other than "crash parts", too. When all of the carline engines became "corporate" in post-Hemi (v1.0) days, that whole consolidation process became easier too. Prior to that time, each division's Hemi V-8 had different bore/stroke combinations with Dodge having the smallest and Chrysler having the largest CID. The DeSoto engines had the longer strokes of the bunch, yet smaller displacements than the Chrysler versions. Yet by about 1960, all of the displacements were the same for all carlines, but now with specific performance packages for each division's hot rod. The DeSoto name lived on after the discontinuation of car production in the USA, as a truck brand in South America, I believe. Kind of like "Fargo"? Enjoy! NTX5467

. . . and we all know that project time can be ever expansive yet money doesn't always work that way. Key thing is to take the time to do a good job and make it "right" up front rather than rush through it thinking you'll go back to change something later. It WILL be worth the wait and worth more in the end if it's done right to start with. Best of luck on your project and keep us posted on your progress. Take plenty of pictures for documentation too, should anything ever be questioned. Enjoy! NTX5467

What you perceive is the "distributor cap" is, in reality, the "coil pack" for the ignition system as it is a "distributorless ignition system", fully computer controlled. Underneath the coil pack is the "module" that runs things. There were two different styles of coil packs back then. One was configured with one large coil pack where all six plug wires pluged onto it. The other was configured from 3 coil packs, with two plug wire each on them. This can be important if you need to replace any of those parts. No interchangeable pieces between them, as I recollect, as they were from different vendors. I don't think it matters with respect to the plug wires that mate with them, though. I might be a year model or two off as it's been a while since I've dealt with those things, but it seems like the question was "Magnavox or not Magnavox?", with respect to the coil pack. These are not typically something you change as a part of "normal maintenance", though. Not sure if the ignition items might be contributing to your driveability issue, though. Does it seem to happen with a certain amount of fuel in the tank than at other times? The idle speed is probably controlled by an Idle Air Control solenoid, which should be on the throttle body. If, per chance, it doesn't work right, it might cause a low idle speed situation OR if the passages in the throttle body that it controls are deposited-up. Might also be an EGR valve that is not closing at the lower speeds too, sometimes. But the IAC is what controls the idle speed, ultimately. You might also check the many vacuum hoses that attach to the side or top of the throttle body itself. The might be having some "age issues" as the plastic block they attach to might also be having. Seems like somebody makes those blocks out of billet or an aluminum casting now? A general cleaning of the throttle body (thorttle blade and internal passages) might be all you need. Check with your local GM dealer's service department and see what they are using to do that with as there are some automotive chemical vendors that only supply dealerships with items you can't find at the auto supply, usually as a comprehensive kit. You might even get them to do the job for a nominal charge, as it might require some special tools to do it "right". I don't recall if those engines have aluminum cylinder heads, but that CAN be an issue if you desire to change the spark plugs and it is an alloy head engine. As in doing it only when the engine is fully cool and using an appropriate anti-seize compound on the spark plugs you put back in. You can do a lot worse than put the OEM-spec (or revised OEM-spec) ACDelco-boxed spark plugs back in there too. Just some thoughts, NTX5467