NTX5467

There was "plain" white, "diamond" white, and what I'll call the "Lucerne Special White". Diamond White looked neat, but didn't really look "waxed" when it was. A little dull as it aged. Disappeared for a few years to return after Lexus started using it, I seem to recall. Ground-up diamond dust, or something that looked that way, was supposed to be in it. An optional color in many years. "Lucerne Special White" (at a MSRP of $995.00) does look better than the Diamond White, but what pearl-like color it'll shift to can vary from green-gold to gold depending upon which viewing angle and lighting source (i.e., outside or inside). Kind of looks neat, but just not too predictable. The blue-green color they had in the later 1990s was more predictable in its color shift, I think. Not sure of how hard it would be to color match in later years, either. In the end, the "plain" white can be a good winner if you can find it. All "whites" are not the same, though. Some are more "blue-white" while others have more cream or gray in them. Yet they are all "white" and can be waxed and polished to a high degree of shine--which is good. I don't know that plain white was offered in all of the years that the Diamond white was offered on the same cars. Not sure if a plain white is available on the Lucerne, either. In those respects, if you want "white" you might have to take what you can find. I think some of the deeper crimson reds on those cars look nice too, but that's just a personal pref. "1" vote for Plain White Just some thougths, NTX5467

There possibly is a "park" switch in the motor itself. The instrument panel switch obviously is commanding (that's a later model terminology) the motor to turn off, just as it can change the speed, but if the park switch has failed, the motor doesn't know when to park the wiper arms and stop. Might need to check a Buick service manual for that year to verify my suspicions and/or find the real culprit. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

Barney, thanks for the kind words. I thought the heated wiper fluid was a regional "situation" and it seems that it was standard on a few models, but optional on the lower model lines. Then I saw the price of that option and I kind of laughed. Rather than a "gimmick", I perceive it had to do with a particular supplier coming up with what they considered was a "competitive edge" and then finding an OEM to bite for it--at a particular installation level of production numbers. Probably will make some supplier some money, might even keep them out of bankruptcy court too. In some respects, I suspect it can lead to more customer complaints for "not working" than it might help. I still like my tried-and-true Prestone spray de-icer, myself. One thing I DID find out about the heated washer fluid is that the temperature of the water output is related to which vehicle it's on. Something like 140 degrees on one car and 160 degrees on another car. We figured out it had something to do with the thickness of the windshield's laminate on particular vehicles as the defroster would not heat the thicker w/shield soon enough, so the water temp was increased to compensate. I don't know that this heated windshield washer fluid option is an indictment of American vehicle manufacturers being "out of touch" per se, just that they were trying to get an exclusive on the option before it was released to other manufacturers a year later--which would mean it would be on higher-end luxury imports too, but it was on a BUICK first. An attempt at market leadership that we're snickering at, it seems. There have been other items (of late) that GM has had first-year exclusive status on, but unless you knew what they were, not many people noticed. It was also pretty neat when many major import manufacturers bought electronic modules for memory seats and automatic a/c controls from ACDelco. I didn't know about that until a friend that worked for a Porsche+Audi dealership mentioned it. That was in the middle 1980s. Mercedes also used a hot water valve from a 1970 Chrysler AutoTemp a/c system in some their cars in that same general time frame too. And, of course, the TurboHydramatic 400 in Rolls Royces and Chrysler's TorqueFlite 727 in Aston Martins. Chrysler 440s and TorqueFlites in Jensen Interceptors, too. The USA automobile manufacturers used to have many premium products and assemblies that were gladly used by the European manufacturers--most possibly as the USA market was about "power this and that" rather than bare-bones performance and utility, so naturally we had the "highest evolved" items of that nature. In many respects, GM has the heritage of being a "bells and whistles" manufacturer. In some cases, these things have somewhat overshadowed the fact that the basic vehicles they were installed in might have been somewhat lacking in content, design, or refinement compared to the competition (especiallly in the 1980s and later) in particular market segments. Some customers are more forgiving in the "refinement" area than others might be, though, if other purchase criteria on the vehicle are met. Now, for the FUTURE . . . I saw the Buick Enclave "utility" concept at the Dallas New Car Show this past Saturday. It is great, especially if it hits the middle $30K price range for the top trim level. Great styling and lines, yep, "lines". Fantastic interior look and luxury appointments. In the showrooms in 14 months (as the presenter noted). The Camaro concept was also there. It looks much better in real life than any picture they have released of it!!!! Great styling and interior configuration. Yep, it has "lines" too! Then there was the Dodge Challenger concept. While it is reasonably true to the look of the 1970 Challenger, it is BIG and (in my thinking) has about 2" too much height between the rocker panel and the body side feature line. The metallic orange color didn't show off the body shapes and curves too well--at least to me. And then there was the Chrysler Imperial concept. 6" taller than a Chrysler 300, longer wheelbase too . . . even has a hint of Bentley in the rear 1/2 of the car . . . and it has a 5.7L Hemi too, with a top speed of something like 140mph+, but it'll take every bit of that speed to outrun the "ugly" award. But once you see the interior, it is a very nice place to be (and you can't see how the outer sheet metal looks, too much, from in there anyway). 4 passengers only in outstanding comfort with a '55 Imperial-style instrument panel. Really nice. The Camaro and Challenger had throngs of people around their turntables--cameras in hand and flashes going off regularly. Lots of interest, to say the least. I understand that Salado was another great meet, Barney. Always a great reason to "get out of town" and be with some great Buick friends and associates! Seems there was even a Corvair in the mix too???? Congrats to all of the show winners, including the "Most Drips" Award! Take care, NTX5467

Everybody is entitled to their own orientation of the merits of any given product . . . including US. Just as with politics, there are "radicals", "centrists", "conservatives", "progressives", "regressives" or any other tag that might be desired. Being able to determine what is what by whom (what my old college communications text book called "filtering" and "determining point of view or perceptual bias") can be just as important in reading media accounts as it determining why somebody's screaming and hollering about something. I do concur that when something . . . anything . . . is read in an allegedly prestigous big city newspaper or comes from a noted wire/news service, the readers take it "as gospel" and being totally correct in all respects, plus possibly quoting it to their friends and associates (which further spreads any inaccuracies in the article or reporting). If a retraction or correction is noted later, the readers usually miss that (I suspect). GM and Buick have been making progress in many areas. Many of the JDPowers surveys highlight many of those things too, but too few people read those things and continue to talk about things as they might have been 10-20 years ago (which might have been flawed information back then too!!!)--including news media operatives. By observation, the imports usually are talked about in glowing terms and domestics are (basically) stomped upon. Only when consumes get out and look around for themselves and look at ALL media accounts/comments might they make a buying decision to purchase a domestic vehicle over an import. For example, that new Camry might be a great car, but for more money than a LaCrosse/Allure or Impala LS? Those two extra EPA highway mpgs can come at a somewhat stiff price (for the 4 cyl Camry and the V-6 Impala, for example). Just depends upon what people are looking for or perceive they need. We've been through that before. Whether or not we might agree or disagree with the LATimes article, this IS America and we can all have the same right to our own orientations and beliefs. I believe that Buicks have been selling well, but in a somewhat depressed market many operatives only know how to report decreased numbers of sales rather than look at how things are going relative to other brands in the same sales classes. Consider how many smaller car companies were selling less than what Oldsmobile was selling when it was discontinued--which might be used as ammunition for GM deleting more car brands by some that fail to understand that for GM (or any other car company) to grow and/or maintain total market share it takes a multitude of vehicles in different market areas to really work. Having all of thsoe market areas to be in can also allow particular GM divisions to get a little brave and do something neat (which might really hurt smaller car companies) every so often without betting the bank account on one trick pony (so to speak). Many people also seem to forget that, by observation, as soon as one American car company or companies back away from a particular market segment, the import brands usually fill that gap pretty soon and profitably. It might be hard to justify the business case for marginal sales vehicles, but keeping those particular vehicles in the product mix AND better promoting them can make them more profitable and increase sales, not to mention keeping loyal customers loyal (as in not giving them a reason to "stray"). It's always harder to get something back than to keep it in the first place. Also, Subaru has been a GM "partner" for a few years now. From what I recall of GM's advertising boycot of the LATimes, they "made up" sooner than later but GM also got some consessions in the negotiations process too? End result, it got the attention of the LATimes but the actual settlement was not that stiffly enforced? How the LaCrosse/Allure (replacing the Regal/Century), Lucerne (replacing LeSabre and Park Avenue, and Enclave (replacing Rendezvous and Rainier) might affect Buick sales remains to be seen. Look at what they had in 1955 (model lines and type of vehicles) and compare it to what they will have in 2007. By the way, I saw the Enclave at the Dallas New Car Show this weekend. It IS a very nice vehicle--period! Looks great, inside and out; has some innovative features and appointments; should sell well too; should further lower the "average Buick owner's" average age too. 14 months and counting. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

Looking back, it's amazing how compact and efficiently designed those old dealerships were. I always loved the ambience that many of them had, which is totally missing from the "boxes with walls" that modern dealerships have become--regardless of brand. There was really something special in the way they looked and felt--at least to me. Newer and bigger is not always "better". Sure, by some "modern" standards, they were allegedly "dumps", poorly lighted and maintained, several elevation changes in some cases, but they were also built out of stronger concrete than has existed for several decades now--typically. Yet the dealership employees were generally more friendly and kinder than in modern times where everything (including when to call the customers, as in "customer relations management") is computerized, where you shared information with the salesperson as you became friends because you wanted to rather than at the salesperson's insistence to fill up his computerized customer files. And don't forget the "high security" given to new vehicles prior to show date! Those were the times! Thanks for the memories! Some great postcards and pictures in this thread and related articles! Enjoy! NTX5467

Sometimes, there is a little flat spring to move which basically locks the wiper arm to the splined shaft when the arm is pushed all of the way onto the splined shaft. In other cases, there can be a little lever to move too. In either situation, you have to know where they are, but once you know where to look, it's pretty easy to find again. Might take some finesse to move the tang on the spring with a small blade screwdriver as you also try to rock the arm on the splined shaft as you also gently pull upward. Generally, the insert in the wiper arm which indexes with the splined shaft is cast from softer metal than the splines are. That's what will "strip" and render the arm useless, usually. In some cases, it's not entirely round (being more of a flattened circle) so that it's kind of designed to strip rather than bend some of the internal (in the cowl) wiper transmission links or tear something else up in the process. Considering that the insert for the wiper blade, along with the blade assembly itself, are both removeable without having to remove the wiper arm, there is usually little need to remove the wiper arm from the car. Wiper blades and related inserts are another situation, though. Does the car still have the original blade on it or has somebody put something "inappropriate" on there? Just curious. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

Some GREAT posters! Looks like that would supplement the GMPhotoStore.com products too! Now, to get enough of those things to wallpaper (display) on one wall in a "car room" of the house???? Maybe more than one room???? Thanks, NTX5467

Twisting all of those plastic wing nuts means that no electric tools are needed. A pretty slick way to do things in the "modular approach" too. Many later model cars are that way, yet there are some tricks to know too (i.e., Reatta). Any you ought to see what they've done to ease headlight bulb replacement too! Pretty slick in some cases! Enjoy! NTX5467

You might access the website for the Colorado DMV or possibly a link to their vehicle codes for "antique" vehicles. There might also be some information on the SEMA.org website, which would relate to passed legislation on that issue in Colorado. You might also check on the BCA Chapter list in The Bugle to contact some of the operatives in Colorado for their input and knowledge in what you desire to do. Of course, any YOM plate will have to be from the state of residence rather than where you might have previously used your existing YOM plates. I suspect there will be some vintage license plate vendors at swap meets up there just as there are in TX. Using the TX codes as a guide, you will probably have to get the vehicle inspected and licensed in the state prior to getting it changed over to a YOM or antique plate. If you find one of your liking at a swap meet, then there are guidelines to get it restored and then accepted by the DMV as suitable for use AND then them making the necessary changes to the registration documents. Might take a while, but it can be worth it. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

Other than cosmetic issues, I suspect the "Super" will be an adaptation of chassis hardware first seen on the Grand Prix GXP and then on the Impala SS--with a few exceptions. The GXP, being from Pontiac, had many "go fast/stop fast" items on the chassis. Brembo calipers (although the calipers on the 2004 GP redesign were already stengthened), slotted and drilled rotors, larger front tires/wheels than on the rear, special chassis calibrations. Then came the Impala SS with the same 5.3L V-8 (with Displacement-On-Demand and a instrument panel readout to indicate when that was happening), but with upgraded normal brakes and 4 tires of the same size--aka things that would make the basic Impala V-8 "agreeable" to fleet use AND be more user-friendly by the general public, but with speed rated tires. I suspect the "Super" will be more along the lines of the Impala SS -- chassis equipment wise -- but could also have Magnetic Ride Control (as the Lucerne CXS has) and some other high-tech items. The one question I might pose would be which engine will be in the car (all that's been mentioned is horsepower, not engine size or source? It would be easy to do the 5.3L V-8 (or the larger version from the Corvettes, 5.7 or 6.0), but being that Buick's price point supposedly means "more tech", then what about the possibility of it having a normally-aspirated NorthStar? In the days of the Oldsmobile Speciality Vehicles group, there were NorthStar Intrigues as "development vehicles", by the reports I heard back then, so maybe that stuff will finally surface in a LaCrosse/Allure Super? Thanks for the information, Roberta! Enjoy! NTX5467

Ethanol, like most alcohol-based compounds, absorbs water when exposed to air. In pipelines, they used to use a "divider" of water (of some kind) to allow different batches of fuel from different sources to travel in the same pipeline. Can't do that with ethanol, obviously. Possibly one reason that different fuels had different colors in prior times? Since about the middle 1980s, all replacement rubber items that relate to an automotive fuel system have been rated and compounded for "alcohol fuel blend" contact. Therefore, NOS items are not good in these places, unless they were produced post-1985 (or thereabouts). Seems like South America has been using "high aromatic" alcohol-based fuels since the 1980s, which also prompted GM to issue a particular part number for Quadrajet carburetors' accel pump cup (export market, "high aromatic fuel" listing in the parts list of particular carb numbers). If you read your owner's manual, it could well state that up to 15% ethanol is acceptable to operate in your (newer) vehicle--but only the "bi-fuel" vehicles of late (usually with some little emblem to signify such, or a particular engine option code on the build sheet/Service Parts ID label) can tolerate the E85 fuels. Again, read your late model vehicle's owner's manual for information. As mentioned, some of the early fuel tank sealers were not compatible with alcohol-based fuels. Many CURRENT fuel blends have had a small amount of ethanol in them for several years--depending upon and varying by brand and region. MTBE was a known carcinogen when it was approved. After it was discovered in the water supply of a California city, then they got excited and that started the ball rolling on getting it outlawed. In TX, it'll be gone by May of this year, for example. MTBE was also linked to many respiratory issues with "at risk" individuals, yet this issue was not widely mentioned as it was promoted as "a better" situation. Some of these health issues were (seemingly) close enough to those of ozone issues to be considered "the same", but reporting of such things was (by observation) highly crude in those earlier times, so the information from the medical field could be flawed. For more information on the ongoing MTBE situation, since its inception, there could well be some archived information on Ed Wallace's website www.insideautomotive.com. Even before the alcohol content in our fuels was a real issue, there were transition periods between winter and summer fuels where many vehicles, including newer ones, had issues in the warmer weather of spring that might have happened sooner than anticipated. Stalling, poor fuel economy, poor driveability--all of which went away as the blends got stabilized a month later. If there are concerns about "hot fuel handling" or vapor locks due to evaporating fuel from the fuel bowl, there can be a few things to consider. ONE will be engine operating temperature and radiator condition--if in doubt, get it cleaned out or replaced and use the recommended temperature thermostat of good quality. If the engine temp starts hotter, then it'll get hotter in the "hot soak" mode after turning off the engine. If possible, always aim the car into the wind when you park it. That should get things cooled down sooner with less evaporative loss from the float bowl. Keeping the outside of the carb clean can help things cool down sooner too. Similarly, making sure the clutch fan (if equipped) is working as designed is a related issue. Many replacement fan clutches are no longer of the thermostatic variety (preferred, with the thermostatic coil on the front), but rather of the earlier design that decoupled based on engine speed rather than cooling demands (no thermostatic spring on the front). I always liked the dedicated bolt pattern flange rather than the universal slotted design (using the centering hole specifically to center the clutch on the water pump hub), but many older part numbers are now of the universal flange design. I'm not sure why a turbo might "love" alcohol-based fuels, other than the possibility that it might serve to cool the charge a little more, might be marginal at best. Another "something" that might be needed is to increase the size of the carb main jets to compensate for these newer fuels. Back when octane boosters were "everywhere", some recommended increasing the main jet sizes up to 4 sizes larger, which was later determined to be due to the high alcohol content of the particular quart of booster, lest it lean things out too much--don't know how this might play into the situation with a vintage street car, though, so an air/fuel ratio check on a road load chassis dyno might be advised before going this direction. It could be that higher compression engines might make the transition to alcohol-based fuels better than lower compression engines might. And, last but not least . . . many of the oil company websites might contain some really good information on (what might be called "Reformulated Fuels with Ethanol") gasoline now blended with Ethanol, plus the "greater" Ethanol fuel E85. MTBE was considered a "fuel extender" or "oxygenate" additive, with Ethanol now taking it's place in that respect. I kind of suspect there have been some SAE Transations/papers on this subject, but have not investigated that possibility. Remember that this change of additive packagaes is generated by governmental entities and not the oil companies themselves. In the DFW area, fuel prices have spiked to $2.75+/gallon for regular unleaded in the past weeks--which curiously seemed to follow predictions from industry "experts" that such would happen. DFW and Houston have to be changed to the new additives by sometime in May. Refineries have to be changed over too, it seems. Spot shortages of fuel due to lack of fuel inventories are also happening, but these shortages have been spotty and temporary (as reported in the local newspapers). In some cases, the name brand fuels have been slower to increase prices than the private brand fuels, but they'll all stabilize at the same levels before it's all over. People seem to be more price conscious, especially on the fringes of the area where they have to drive an hour to work each day (one way), but speeds on the highways have not noticeably become slower. As much as we might complain about the fuel prices now, many of our reference points can hinge upon what they were when we were growing up. If you remember 25 cent/gallon regular leaded gas, then things are really more expensive now than in the 1960s (or prior), but if you're younger and your reference point if more in the $1.50/gallon range, it's not quite as big of an increase. Fuel costs have not really been influenced by inflation as other consumer good have, though--not that THAT's justification for some of the (perceived) pricing tactics of late, though. How a vintage vehicle "takes" to the ethanol-blend fuels can be highly variable. Maintenance and operating condition can be factors just as basic design and engineering of vehicle systems can affect the tolerance to ethanol blend fuels. A good start would be to make sure that everything's working "to spec" before automatically blaming the fuel for any new problems. Although the water absorption issue was noted to be an issue with alcohol-based fuels, it does not really seem to be as much of an issue as some might expect. This is one time that keeping the fuel tank pretty much full during storage could be beneficial (less air in the tank which can be moisture-laden with changing ambient temperatures over time). A lower fuel level, latent condensation from ambient temperature swings, plus latent corrosion in the tank itself might all contribute to an accelerated "crud in the tank" issue--not than any would be broken loose (unless possibly the earlier sealers had been used), but that it would multiply faster than normal with the fuel now absorbing more of the latent condensation. Perhaps an incognitio clear inline fuel filter could be an asset in these situations (or the glass fuel filter bowl on earlier vehicles)? We might be trading one environmental issue for another one in the change from MTBE to Ethanol-blend fuels, but it's something we can work together to help each other with in making that transition (where applicable). Just some thoughts, NTX5467

More and more functions that used to be "hard wired" are now run via the Body Control Module--even the starter (which is why there might seem to be a slight delay between when you turn the key and the starter engages on many modern vehicles, automatically disengaging the starter when the engine speed signals "Started" to the BCM--plus not letting the starter re-engage while the engine is running). Lots of interfaces between many more vehicle "body" functions as time progresses into the future. NTX5467

In those model years, the Hurst Hatch Roof was not done at the factory, but by an authorized Hurst Hatch Installation Center near the location (hopefully close by) of the dealership the vehicle was invoiced to. If the price is on the window sticker, it was all handled outside of the dealer's normal activities, but if it was a "dealer add-on" situation, it would not be on the manufacturer's window sticker or build sheet. To do that installation, the interior was removed and a holding tool placed into the sun visor mounting holes and also inserted into a rear roof inner structure area (especially on unit body vehicles!!). Then the template was installed, along with plenty of masking tape around the areas to be cut, and the installation began. In some cases, an extra front-back brace was installed down the middle of the inner roof structure. Other than the disassembly and reassembly, the installation was pretty straight forward to do. Back then, the Hurst Hatch Roof option was a really big deal. On some GM cars, the width of the glass in the roof panels was narrower than with some of the later brands, especially on the F-body Firebirds. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

There will need to be a switch in the door frame (somewhere, possibly on the front side) to interrupt the ground path of the dome light circuit. As mentioned, the headlight switch can override what happens at the door. The switch is a simple "ground interrupt" switch to break the circuit and keep the lamp from being on. If the switch has failed, it can keep the light on. The failure would be for the contacts inside of the switch to be touching regardless of what the plunger of the switch does. There should be a timer in the Body Control Module that will turn off the dome lamp after about 30 minutes of the vehicle not being in use. "Battery Rundown Protection", I think they called that. A different function than the "Theatre Lighting" which gradually dims the interior lamps after the last car door closes. Regarding the door locks "not setting", is that via the door switch or the keyless entry remote or possibly an automatic locking orientation when the vehicle reaches a particular speed? That's a different circuit from the dome lamp, though. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

If the window goes down fine, but has trouble being rolled back up, it could be a window regulator issue. It sounds like the regulator is binding somewhere and causing the thermal cutout on the motor to do its job. Probably need to remove the door panel to inspect the regulator asm as it goes up and down. I'm not sure how the door panel comes off, but sometimes it's better to let somebody else do those things. Probably need to check the voltage at the release solenoid of the deck lid release. Might be that it's working fine, but the housing that holds it (which would react to the "release" torque of the solenoid) could have fractured with time and use. Again, it just needs to be observed during operation to see where the problem might be. Enjoy! NTX5467

The "key" might be if they are "NOS" or "NORS" hoses OR if they are new hoses with the correct numbers and codes and configuration for the original hoses they will replace. To me, a 50 year old rubber hose might be great for a 110% correct restoration, but I don't think I'd trust it for a road trip of any length. In any event, I would consider it very fragile. It could serve a reproduction company well (to build a new repro part off of). Depending upon how it was stored could also determine how valuable it would be in actual use too (as in how much the rubber might have deteriorated/aged over the years). In many cases, the major brands of "production-style" hoses were usually pretty close to the originals (some were even better as they might have fixed the OEM "problem areas"), but there were also some universal-fit hoses that would look cobbled-up by even standards back then. Ultimately, it will depend upon what the purchaser's expectations are for the NOS rubber part (while being cognizant of all of the side issues). By observation, the "value" of some parts/items offered for online auction can be more in the mind of the seller than in the minds of the potential purchasers. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

It could be that the "normal" lash adjustment (on the top of the box, with the jam nut) might need to be revisited. When I got my '68 LeSabre, the steering felt funny and made some "worn out" noises until I got it tightened up some. The box still has some wear in it, but it feels better now. The "connector" in the line you indicate might have more to do with getting resonances out of the system than fluid restriction per se. Chrysler has used "stepped" hoses, but in greater size differences than on yours, for years (at least with the '70s and prior). Only reason can be to get harmonics out of the fluid flow, I suspect. The only restriction in the power steering system is in the back of the power steering pump. There's a drilled orifice (which is replaceable) where the pressure line attaches, that governs "boost". A little difference in the hole size can make a BIG difference in steering actions--as in from highly overboosted to normal to less than normal--which is independent from the "feel" imparted by the stiffness (or lack of) of the internal torsion bar in the gearbox. Basically, there have been no more than three different orifice sizes over the years. Too large of an orifice dimension can make the steering have a mind of its own, highly overboosted at the same time, by observation. This is a reason that a replacement reman power steering pump might feel different than the original one you took off. Once you get the gearbox adjustments taken care of, then you might also get a hand vacuum pump and figure out a way to pull a vacuum on the power steering reservoir. Might be some trapped air in the mix too. I suppose you are using GM-spec power steering fluid? Enjoy! NTX5467

Skyking, I concur that "INVICTA" would have been a worthy nameplate to put up against the Chrysler 300. Only problem is that the "metal" does not seem very willing (the Lucerne) or worthy of such a flashy name as "Invicta", with all due respect. Now, after I sat at work and pondered how to spiff up the Lucerne . . . (don't gasp too loud!) . . . there are some body lines that with some of the chrome (probably it would need to be "satin nickle" now) trim of yestercentury, there are a couple of possibilities for two-toning ala 1961 Invictas. Unfortunately, it would take more to get rid of the side mouldings and make a SweepSpear side motif ala Boat Tail Rivs or something akin to a 1956 Buick. Seems strange that the Lucerne has body side mouldings in the way and the Cadillac STS has none to start with! Even a simple single pinstripe on the Lucerne makes it look better! One of my work associates also believes that the Lucerne needs a chrome strip down the middle of the hood, with a stand-up hood ornament so the "typical Buick owners" can tell where the front end of the car is. Might give it a more upscale touch of class too! I've been looking at tape stripes for the LaCrosse too. Have it almost figured out. A modified SweepSpear of sorts to follow the existing body lines. I'm not sure about "Super" and "LaCrosse" together. But it amounts to "smaller and lighter car" and "big engine". Now, while the horsepower figure has been mentioned, considering that OHV motors are allegely "pa-saaaayyyyy" in that price class, might the V-8 in the LaCrosse Super be the NorthStar rather than the LS1 as is in the 2006 Impala SS and Pontiac Grand Prix GXP? Be glad that platinum-tip spark plugs are now standard!!! I'll check some of the newspapers in the morning for possibly pictures of all three. Just some thoughts . . . NTX5467

There should be a torque spec for the "adjuster plug" tightness, or other adjustment criteria, listed in the GM service manual. I suspect that if you can find any GM manual that covers the GM800 (I think that's which one it'll be) steering gearbox, you can find what you might desire to find. I suspect you do have the Master gasket/seal package? Just some thoughts, NTX5467

The 1.8L and 2.0L 4 cylinders (the ones with the ribbed cam cover and the distributor running off the end of the overhead camshaft) were originally Brazilian motors. Seems like the turbo was only on the 2.0L engines. They were also used in Pontiac Grand Ams. Only used for a few years in the USA models. I suspected they were something of a "fill-in" until more engine production capacity or newer 4 cylinders made in the USA were available. The 2.0L Turbo Grand Am did run pretty decent, once the turbo got spooled-up, but I generally liked the way the Olds Quad4s ran (more power across a broader rpm range, and they didn't mind higher speeds either). Enjoy! NTX5467

You might check with some of the Buick musclecar vendors, which would include those and later Skylarks (intermediate chassis, rear wheel drive). I like to use www.rockauto.com for shopping and informational purposes. They have most of the same brands you can possibly procure via your local auto supply sources or you can order it from them. Their online catalog works great and is easy to use. I have bought some things from them and everything worked as desired. One KEY thing is to get a "factory-style" moulded hose rather than the universal "flex" hose. Even if you're not going to be showing it for points, they look and work better than the flex hoses. The other thing is that if Year ONE or another similar vendor has them, somebody builds them for them, so that would usually mean that somebody has the molds in stock, but those that Year ONE gets will have the GM numbers and date codes rather than the producer's numbers. You might also check out www.GMRestorationParts.com. That website can indicate not only the possible GM OEM part number, but where to buy them as a "restoration part", with factory numbers and built to GM's specs (fit and materials). Just some thoughts, NTX5467

A simple answer . . . NO. Pistons are not completely round, but are slightly elliptical in shape to allow for expansion when they get hot in use (and THEN become round). Pistons are also designed-to-size, which means that no "meat" should be removed from them, other than by normal wear in the cylinder bore. They are ALSO a particular weight, which relates to engine "balance". You'll have to check the weight specs, but I highly suspect the larger 401 piston would be several grams heavier than the smaller 364 piston. For an accurate comparison, you'll have to use "factory piston weight" (from a Buick service manual, or similar) rather than what you might find in an aftermarket piston catalog. You might find somebody that can get you a single replacement piston in the necessary size. It'll take a while, most possibly, but the other issue would be current cylinder bore wear and how "loose" that new "standard size" piston might be in it. Could possibly be loose enough to knock! And don't forget about piston rings too, they'll need to be new too, the used ones you might use could well be too used to seal effectively, hence an "oiler" on that cylinder. If you do get an aftermarket piston, take your old piston and the new one to a machine shop that does balancing and get them to "balance" the new one to match the old piston's weight. That's what the "balance pad" on the bottom side of the piston pin area is for. Also, IF perchance the stroke of the 401 is different than the 364, that could well have some bearing on where in the piston's height the piston pin is located. Another architectural issue to consider that could have serious consequences if it's not considered. Hope this might help, NTX5467

"Backyard experts"????? On the issue of "hybrid insurance", what I listened to was a radio spot by Traveler's Insurance Company . . . something like "special cars need special insurance" was mentioned. It would also make sense to me that a hybrid might come with some type of low rolling resistance tire, which might not be available at just any tire store. Kind of like insurance that the mpg figures would be as great as possible. I admit I haven't investigated this fact, but it does seem to have some credibility. Dave quoted performance figures for the particular hybrid. I just countered with a comment that they are very similar to what many magazines have reported for most any GM W-car platform vehicle with the Buick 3800 V-6. No more, no less. But I did develope that thought a little farther, too, which also drew some more information out of Dave in the process. My general point is . . . using Dave's quoted figures . . . almost any of the 1997+ GM W-car platform vehicles can achieve performance and fuel economy that closely match the figures Dave quoted, with nothing unusual in the process, vehicular equipment wise, just plain ole solid internal combustion engineering (but well-finessed). Vehicles that number in the millions on the roadways of this world we live in. How many hybrids have been sold year-to-date? Again, using the figures Dave quoted for hybrid performance. As long as fuel prices stay as they are, which is something of an "unknown" at this time, hybrid vehicle prices (new and used) will remain generally high. Just as with some diesel vehicles, not everybody needs to have one. They'll sing praises of it until they have to spend money on it. One of the normal places such a generic customer would start to look would be the local auto supply (can't go to a dealer, they'll be toooooo expensive). If they then end up at an auto salvage venue, whatever they might purchase will cost pretty much the same as "new", due to what it is. Last resort would be the dealership, typically, and then they'd have to wait for the item to be special ordered (just a hunch, here). Remember too, this generic customer will most probably NOT be networked with the suppliers and such that Dave is -- key point -- but they might get there sooner or later -- if they have access to Al Gore's Internet. Remember, this generic customer could just as well be a frugal college student or somebody's grand mother. End result, it'll be a "good car" until it costs them more to keep it going than a similar '98 Buick Regal LS (for example). Therefore, in that scenario, many people would be better off staying away from anything not "mainstream". Not to say that in, possibly 10 years, things might be highly different! As I've previously stated, I'm glad Dave and others like their hybrids. We've agreed they are not yet cost effective to own, compared to a similar fossil fuel vehicle, so that throws other factors into the mix of what would motivate somebody to purchase a new one (best option, to me) or a used one (less best option, to me, all things considered). I suspect that ultimate customer satisfaction with hybrids will depend upon how long the factory warranty period is on new hybrid vehicles (AND availability of viable extended warranty coverages or used car warranties on hybrids). By observation, as long as it's in warranty, they have much more cost protection than if it's aged/been used past that years/miles limit. I hope those earlier hybrids don't eventually end up with the same "desire to purchase" factor as a used Cadillac Cimmaron, as a used car. I'm aware that, at the present time, hybrid vehicles will make sense for a good many people, BUT we need choice in purchase decisions for vehicles that fit our individual real-world needs. I highly suspect the current desire for SUV-type vehicles was not driven specifically by the popularity of Jeep Cherokees in the 1980s, but CAFE that resulted in great downsizing of normal cars and their related fwd architectures. If anybody wanted something with rear wheel drive, they had to buy a Ford or some sort of truck-based vehicle, much less a V-8 (of any size). Trying to force people to downsize in their vehicle purchase decisions will/has worked to a point--that point being to where the added utility of a larger vehicle to support "lifestyle" activities (including the soccer grand mother!) where a sufficient-sized "station wagon" is no longer available. Station wagons were discontinued and were seemingly replaced by Suburbans and Tahoes and Expeditions. But that's another story . . . Cheers! NTX5467

Good advice, JohnD! We've all seen people put the tops up and down "with abandon" in the past, as in back when those cars were new. Little concern as to if the top was folding properly or anything . . . but then the cars were "new" back then and the expense of replacing a convertible top was not an active consideration. In the more present time, taking a little extra care in getting the top folded and stowed correctly (and making sure it's clean when that happens) is just part of the situation of preventive maintenance for the top. It's not uncommon for the vinyl boots to shrink as they age. If yours looks too small, it IS advisable to only try to install in on a hot day, but to also put the boot out in the sun for a good while prior to such installation attempts. Worst case scenario, get another one built "to specs" of the correct material. Then, if it doesn't fit well (when new), you have somebody to "talk to". Enjoy! NTX5467

Depending upon what specific vehicle you might have, I have seen some from the restoration vendors for older vehicles (i.e., musclecars). The tire pressure/recommendation sticker can possibly also be found from similar vendors OR possibly from GM parts (in the catalog section for "labels" and "cautionary labels"). Again, it will all depend upon what model year the vehicle is as to where you'll need to look. Once you might get the VIN label, then you'll have to figure out how to duplicate the font used on it by GM. THAT could be a large issue in itself, plus some states might frown upon anything with a VIN being reproduced and attached to a vehicle, even if it's all legit. Yet the main VIN they'll get excited about is at the base of the windshield PLUS any such tag anywhere else on the vehicle (usually in the lh front door frame area). Just some thoughts, NTX5467