Jim

I have lots of Reatta jacks and will send you one for $ 5 plus shipping. Send me an email at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Once the motor runs and nothing happens, most likely the cables are already broken. I didn't follow up on Dave's recommendation ( because I am not in the market for a sunroof ) but I would guess that, in this case, this would be the best way to go as a person can probably buy a complete working sunroof for $ 50-$ 100 from a salvage yard.

I recently picked up 5 more instrument clusters for the '90-91 Reattas and also picked up several good ABS pump/motors and pressure switches. Even a couple of good used accumulators.

On the ballot it says "be sure and vote for THREE candidates. On the inside of the Bugle on page 15 it says "be sure and vote for no more than THREE candidates. One person in this thread asked how the voting would be tallied. I am assuming the folks being elected will be the three who get the highest number of votes. Can I vote for just one or two and not three?

Thank you but does anyone know where to find these in the parts book and the group number?

I have heard where cleaning the contacts on the rear of the IPC will make them work again but these are pretty good contacts and usually are not susseptible to dirt affecting them. Cleaning the ECC is a different deal as the ECC has mechanical contacts that are operated when you push the buttons but the IPC simply stays in its location. The biggest problem with IPC especially the '90-91s is GM didn't do a very good job building them with long lasting components and as a result they will go bad more often than the '88-89 IPCs. Because they are a used electronic part they might work for years and might go bad at any time. I do have good ones available but because they are a used electronic part I can only guarantee them for 30 days. Digital Dash Solutions rebuilds these units for $ 150 and I believe they guarantee their repairs for a year, but am not positive.

From my experience sometimes someone who knows what they are doing can clean and readjust the laser but most likely will not work. I am also told the lasers for the early CD players is no longer available. I do have available a good working CD player that I have updated. It takes in the CD much faster and plays it much sooner than the originals. Ervin I will send you and email. Jim

I will be sending Mike the plastic pins and the rubber grommets. I have been searching my parts books and cannot find the part number to match the 22573692 GM does a horrible job of naming parts and I have been searching my parts books trying to find that number. Is the number 22573692 the plastic pin or the rubber grommet and in what group is is located. I am looking at group 14 page 29 and this is for the rear panel but they use the same pins and grommets but list a different part number

I have as many as you need of both. I sent you an email. Jim

I believe Prior reman still rebuilds these units for about $ 650 You can google that name and should be able to find them. If you do find a unit in the U Pull it it is a good idea to get the pump/motor, accumulator and pressure switch. They come off the master cylinder by cutting the hose from the reservoir, cut or disconnect the steel line, remove the connectors and then remove the one bolt that holds them to the side of the master cylinder. Most likely the accumulator will be no good but the pump/motor and pressure switch are nice to have as spares. Among my other cars I have a '65 GTO convertible 4 speed. Jim

I sell ABS units complete and parts and I have had many chances to buy these units from U Pull Its and never do. The only ones I will sell is ones that I can test before sending them out. Because of the amount of work involved in replacing one of these units I don't want someone to go through all that effort and then find it has problems. In another post someone suggested doing the tests but one test I always do and I don't believe it is mentioned elsewhere is I take the car out and drive it about 20MPH when no one is around and do a simulated panic stop. Very often there will be problems in the valve body that do not show up on other tests but a panic stop will tell you if the valve body is functioning correctly. If the car stops straight ahead without pulling to one side or the other and does not have a hard pedal during this test, then I feel the unit is good. Some folks have wrecked their cars because of a hidden problem in the valve body. This is why I will not buy one from a U Pull it or any other place unless the seller can assure me it works in all driving conditions. These units were used on several different cars but in some cases, if you get one off a Cadillac for instance, you will have to change the rear mounting and the rod that connects to the brake pedal.

Jerry, For the drivers window you will need to replace the motor regulator as the teeth are most likely stripped on either the motor or the regulator. The motor is riveted to the regulator and there is a large coil spring involved and sort of dangerous when changing just the motor. I have a good motor/regulator available. Your passenger side window going up and down slowly is simply dry tracks. If your mechanic removes the door panel and then greases all the tracks that window should start working correctly. There is a nylon band inside the antenna assembly and that band has broken. Barney Eaton barney@texas.net has a very good replacement band assembly and your unit can be repaired or I have good working used antenna assemblies. I will send you a PM with prices.

I bought it with the intention of my daughter driving it for a few months and then sell it again. Now my wife thinks she should drive it and rest her driftwood convertible for that time. I am not going to get in the middle of who gets the car but I did buy an otto so, even though they both can drive a standard, this way it is a little easier and also easier to resell.

I am thinking I have too many white with red interior cars. '63 Corvette and '90 Select 60

There were two Reattas at the Charlotte Auto Fair and I bought one. One was the pea green with an asking price of $ 5900. Looks gold in the picture but was pea green. The other one I bought and is a highly customized Reatta. Drove it back to Duluth with no trouble and lots more power than normal.

It is actually my son who can make them for me and that is why I can be pretty flexible on the price. I just won't pay him much. He tells me he has two types of plastic that would work and one of them he felt would be plenty strong enough to hold the cover up.

For a price, I am thinking in the $ 25 to $ 50 range. Jim

Ed Farnell and I were at the auto fair today and will be there again tomorrow. No Reattas today, maybe tomorrow. Jim

Odd that this thread came up again and actually I forgot it was here. Just last weekend my son and I were discussing these clips as he can make them for me. I know they do break and there is a little demand for them. I would be interested in knowing if there is any interest in reproducing them and how much would be a fair price to charge for one. Like Kinglsey with his parts, I am not in it for the money, but would like to help with a hard to find part.

Kingsley, Thanks, for reminding me. I totally missed the ballot on the front cover of the latest Bugle and would have missed voting for Chuck. Will do it right now.

Jerry, I am going to try and get the wheels out Monday and will let you know. Funny, not so funny story-------- 2/22/2006 I flew to Orlando and bought a '90 Reatta convertible and drove it to Naples. The next day I and another fellow drove over to the Miami area looking for U Pull its. On the way back to Naples along alligator alley, 70 miles of nothing, the car developed a vibration but the person I was with wanted to get back asap so we kept going. The cap blew off the right front tire and blew the fender right off the car. One day old and now no fender. The next day I drove up to see, Larry Keie who was living in Vero Beach at the time, and we took off the remainder of the broken fender and bolted on a black one he had. The clear coat was coming off but at least I had a black fender on the car for the trip to MN.

The nearest U Picks are about 120 miles from me but they put their inventory on line so I know when a Reatta or Riv comes in. I do travel the country quite a bit and have a folder of the U Picks in various states. When I am going through those cities I will follow my map and IPhone to the yard. Almost every yard charges from zero to $ 2 to get in. These places are great because you can buy the parts very cheap, then if you want, you can quadruple quadruple the price and then sell it to some unsuspecting person.

I also have good used windshields for between $ 150 and $ 350 but will not ship one. If you are near Minnesota we can work something out. Please send me an email at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I believe he does.

The way the system works is the pressure switch sees low pressure, starts the pump and builds up 2600 pounds of pressure in the accumulator. When the pressure gets close, the red and yellow lights will go off and a few seconds later the pump will stop running. The pump should never keep running to the point where it is getting hot. Two things could be wrong. Either the pressure switch is bad or you have a bad relay on the firewall. Remove the connector from the pressure switch and look inside. If you see even the tiniest drop of brake fluid next to any of the pins your switch is bad. There are two relays in the center of the firewall that control the brake pump and system. The arrow is pointing to the pressure switch in the picture. I have good pressure switches available and also good relays.