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Found 5 results

  1. Well it seems this brake problem happens to all of us. Car was running and braking just fine, no amber or red lights on the Teves system, and suddenly no braking pressure at all and its throwing both warning lights. I'm crossing my fingers and praying the pump and accumulator are ok. One of the three relays (I have no idea which is which) still engages but has pretty high resistance across the contacts. I'd like to just change out all three relays on the Teves system but am having problems finding a cross reference. Any assistance would be great! Here are the designations for the relays that were in the car. Siemens V23134-K3-X68 12v Hella RB 005 721-01 12v Siemens V23134-E52-X83 12v Thanking you in advance, James
  2. I just purchased a 1989 Reatta with no apparent major issues, or so I thought. However, after driving the car for about an hour, the red brake light and the amber abs light will come on. The brakes still continue to work for a little while. I thought it might be the accumulator failing, so I replaced that. Then I drove the car to work, thinking all was good. On the ride home, there was a lot of traffic, so a lot of braking. The hydraulic pump motor was overheating, causing the pressure to be really low, so I had to take 15 minute stops to let the motor cool down. Anyone have any ideas? Is this a problem with the pressure switch over working the pump? Or just that the pump is so old it can't keep up with the braking? The computer also says the cruise control is disconnected, probably unrelated, but thought I'd mention it. My local Buick service shop is not familiar with the Teves brake system. So I'm looking for some help with making this car safe to drive.
  3. so, is i started to whine about in a previous thread - regarding my 16v while i got the brakes working just fine, i do want to replace the accumulator, which i STILL haven't figured out how to remove. i did the pumping-the-brakes 25x while engine off method, etc., etc., to depressurize the system but i still can't seem to get any of the accumulators on ANY of my many TCs to turn. i have 4 of these cars of my own (currently), plus the one i sold to a friend, and newly added parts car: i can't loosen any of the accumulators. i've looked at the various posts here, and several other forums, including the reatta forum, reattaowner site, and even the autozone "how to..." on this subject. while many have said they have had no issues, most everyone who posted did say they had heard of some owners of these systems had impossible, or nearly impossible to remove accumulators. i've tried big wrenches, strap wrenches, a chain-strap wrench, oil filter wrenches, with and without wood blocking, sometimes i used heat, but always with a firm grip on the tall (AL?) stalk that supports the accumulator. but never have i had any luck getting this thing removed. i guess the yellow 1989 16v and royal cab 1989 8v are the two cars i am a little concerned about - they seem to have slightly weaker braking action for a given amount of brake pedal pressure, as compared to the 1990 models. i've wondered about the AL stalk and the accumulator - if the accumulator is steel, maybe i am fighting some galvanic interaction between the two. or do i just need more wd40, PB blaster, or propane torch heat, or???
  4. My friend and I replaced the Teves ABS brake system on my '89 with a traditional master cylinder / vacuum booster yesterday, and I couldn't be more pleased. Like most everyone, I battled with the Teves on and off again over the years (more on, than off). But no more. I'm happy to report that we did the whole job in one day, and the results are super tight brakes. I got the vacuum booster, master cylinder, two proportioner valves, some line, couplings and a T-joint for about $200, which is about $450 less than a remanufactured Teves system from Prior. The system I took off was pretty much shot: leaking pump, leaking accumulator, and rusted almost beyond recognition. I'd been putting off replacing it for almost two years, topping it off with brake fluid weekly, and feeling guilty about the environment. It finally completely went out on me about a year ago, leaving the car un-drivable. I did my research and bought all the big parts prior to yesterday, which is why we got it done in a day. All my research suggested it was a straight-forward job, which it was. We only had two unexpected hiccups; both were minor. Anti-lock brakes are a nice safety net, but down here in Texas, in the 10 years I've driven this car, I've only had the ABS engage once. I'm a competent braker, when it comes to tight situations, so ABS isn't something that's very important to me. Others feel differently, I'm sure, so this mod isn't for everyone. Of course, I've only driven it for one day and I haven't tried to lock up the wheels yet, so it's a bit premature to do a victory march. However, the braking response is just as good as with the Teves, so unless our adapter fittings spring a leak, I don't expect any problems. I'm sure a few others have done this before, but I could find very little documentation on it, so I thought I'd post here in case anyone else is interested in the idea. If you are, feel free to email me at billyd.atx @ gmail . com. I'll try to post some pics of the finished mod when I get a chance.
  5. I have been digging around for answers to this question. I have an 89 Reatta with the Teves brakes. Wish I would have bought the 91 now. Why is my brake light on, abs light not on, and never comes on, and my brakes are so hard to push that I nearly brake the seat when trying to stop? I have checked for voltage at that abs pump, and I have 11.34 volts, but the pump never runs. I get the low pressure message from the computer, so I am sure it is not the abs controller in the trunk. I am thinking it is simply the pump, but why doesn't the ABS light come on when I start the car? Could it be a coincidental issue, and the ABS light is burned out. I doubt it. Thanks, Jason
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