Barney Eaton

Above I said the latches are the same........but they are not, from the outside they look the same. Updating this post.... the shop manual is not helpfull at all. So I disassembled my pass thru today and here are the photos. The red latch is for the pass thru and note it does not have the same mechanism as the silver latch. The red latch has an extension of the slider that is moved by the lock/key. That extension pushes on that bracket on the right side. that causes the links to push on the end pivots and they have a "U" shaped notch that does the latching on both sides. If your pass thru is not locking properly, you probably need to adjust those pins that stick out. If you pass thru door is deformed, one side might want to lock and the other one does not. You may need to take it apart so you can see how the latches are engaging. maybe all you need to do is put a little pressure on the right or left side to make them work better. Sorry about the picture quality of the latching mechanism. Also note that two of my screw bosses were broken. I glued them today and tomorrow I will reinforce them....hopefully they well hold.

Glad to hear someone has exact numbers.... 466 of 330,593 = 0.14% which would round to the 0.1 published by Ward's

Make sure you have a lid for the bucket. We discovered a small rattler in my daughters garage...since it was a little over a foot long we put it in a 5 gallon bucket and she called a friend that catches and relocates snake..... when he came to get the snake it was gone. Guess it was longer than we thought. I have lived in 3 different houses in Texas and killed a rattler at each the first year I lived in the house. The last one was after a big rain...the guy must have been flooded out of his den and was stretched out on my driveway. He was dispatched and was close to 5 feet long.

1986 was the first year of that coupe in a LeSabre I believe there was a Custom and Limited and the "T" type option could be added.

White tires faded out around 1916 replaced with black tires which had carbon in the rubber and added tire life.

If you have a better idea, let us know. They could have used a longer wire, and routed it to the hinge and down. But that would cost more $$

Willis (NTX5467) gave you clues to the answer....... lining material is tested and graded by SAE If they give a lifetime warranty it is a harder lining that will last but has a lower coefficient of friction. They will last a long time but not stop as good. Like car tires.... a harder rubber compound will last a long time but will not be that good in the rain. Another thing to consider............. have you noticed all the (high performance) disc brake rotors that are drilled and/or have grooves in them ... they are there to get the gasses out as the brakes heat up. Same thing happens on drum brakes.... you have probably seen high performance drum brake shoes and the friction material may be in 3-4 sections with gaps between them. As the brakes heat up, the friction material degasses and it can form a cushion between the drum and friction material. A cheap and easy improvement is to grind a groove across the middle of new shoe friction material. Think of it a free insurance against brake fade.

How about this tag.......what do you know about the 82 Riv convertibles with Select Sixty Dealer emblems?

I posted elsewhere on another question about options this information from Ward's Auto Yearbook. Attached is the page that shows the percentage of cars that had an option. The answer is somewhat vague because in the case of 4 speeds they were only available on LeSabre and Wildcat but the percentage is based on ALL full size Buicks. In this case there were 330,593 total cars built and 4 speed column says 0.1% which would be 330.6 The secondary issue we do not know the actual decimal of the percentage as they rounded it to 0.1% Bottom line is the 330 is a ballpark figure

See if these photos help. The latches are the same inside the only difference it the pass thru only opens with the key.

looks like you have a plan...........show pictures of the finished job

Apparently the price is the only thing you read in the post. Repeat... 1990 Black/tan convertible.

How many rattlesnake can live in a Arizona junk yard?

Why don't you give one a try and then you could be a contributor to the knowledge that resides here?

Lady called me from the NC coast saying her husband had passed last Feb and she has this car sitting in the garage and it needs a home. They have owned it for several years and it has been treated well. I have not seen the car and only know it has 97K miles. I suggested from her description that the car should be worth around 10K. I also told her if she was approached by a dealer they would only offer wholesale or less. If you have an interest PM me and I will get you in touch with her.

Brake fluid....especially in the tow vehicle. You might experience brake fade that you just brush off as overuse but you may be boiling the brake fluid. Several key points. The minimum boiling point (SAE) for DOT 3 (Dry boiling point) is 401 F ..... 2% moisture will lower the boiling point 100 F Depending on the conditions where you live.... high humidity areas can cause the fluid to absorb that 2% in one year..... and it does not stop there. Going to DOT 4 helps some with the dry boiling point at 446 F but it will absorb moisture at the same rate as DOT 3 DOT 5 (silicone base) does not absorb water BUT cannot be used on vehicles with ABS .... the activation of the ABS solenoids will aerate the fluid and cause issues. DOT 5.1 is a high temp petroleum based fluid that has a dry boiling point of 518 F Note some manufactures fluid exceed the SAE minimum boiling point and give you some extra cushion. You can purchase inexpensive testers that will indicate the moisture content. If you have more than 2% moisture you should be out changing your brake fluid NOW

Thanks for the comments and yes I have ask Buick people on this site and at national Buick meets and details are hard to come by.

Before you start searching the wiring, jump start it at the starter. A remote starter switch/cable is handy. If it will not start by jumping it is probably the starter.

I am looking for anyone on this forum that know anything about Buicks "Select Sixty Dealer" program. I would like to know........ When did it start and end What was the criteria for qualifying to be a Select Sixty Dealer Last and maybe the most interesting..... what vehicles were offered to the dealers each year. To get started I already know about a few. 1982 dealers were offered a Riviera convertible 1987 dealers were offered a GNX 1988 dealers were offered a Reatta 1990 dealers were offered a Reatta convertible. What I have been told a dealer that qualified as a Select Sixty dealer was offered a high demand or special car to be added to their allotment. Within Buick the Select Sixty Dealers was the Buick General Managers award program During the same time there was the Sales Managers award program called the Pacesetters.

Both parts look like they could be fairly easy to fabricate. If you had an original part or dimensions.

Interesting video and a very good looking Riviera. Also interesting it was called a sales flop when the author could have done a similar video on the Reatta which sold less vehicles in 4 production years than Riviera did in 1986 alone. 1986 Riviera = 22,138 1987 Riviera = 15,223 1988 Riviera = 8,625 1988 - 1991 total Reatta production 21.751

Pence........ the page posted here is all I have for 1966 If you cannot copy it from this forum, I could send it to you via email but I need your email.

The "he" in this conversation was me and I was looking at the 1990 manual and the illustration in the 1990 is located on a different page in the 1991 manual. I believe he now has the correct information. In the 1991 Service Manual the info needed is in section 8A 120-0, 1, 2 the third page gives you the the info on the location.... Interior Relay Center.........Below RH front of console .......... 201-18 A For anyone with a Reatta service manual, they are very helpful. In this case you find the power window electrical diagram in section 8 of the service manual. On the page after the diagram, there is a list of the components with a description of their location plus the page and diagram location for the part you are looking for. I have been very happy with the factory service manuals for the Reatta. If you own a Reatta buy a used manual from somewhere (Ebay) and if you can read, you can probably diagnose and possibly fix a large percentage of the issues you might have with the car.

Ward's Auto Yearbook has these numbers with lots of other automotive statistics. The Yearbook is expensive and very few libraries carry them. In my case, the University of Texas in Austin has a good collection but traffic, parking and distances keeps me from going unless I get desperate. Recently I found the main library in Dallas has a limited number of years. I have digital copies of this page for all years from 1962 to 1975.

Someone may have the info you are looking. Here is something that might be of interest to you and other 1966 Buick owners. Unfortunately it does not break down the cars into specific model