Barney Eaton

You found the correct wire. Next step would be to get to the connector near the gas tank and try power to the fuel pump there. At the same time you could test that you are getting 12v from the car to that connector. With some of the other issues you have, this may take some trouble shooting. Look around the engine compartment for sign that wires have been cut and or spliced.

It says this PPG pace car is up for auction on bring a trailer today. https://gmauthority.com/blog/2023/10/1988-buick-reatta-ppg-pace-car-up-for-auction/ Someone may remember when this car was first sold.... CART filed for bankrupsy after the 2003 season and they were selling off various equipment. I believe the auction was in Indianapolis sometime after 2003 season ended. A little research could find the mileage on the car when it sold back then,. What is your feeling in its value....... I think more as a museum piece as the fuel cell restricts trunk space if used as a daily driver and it might be next to impossible to match that paint job if it was damaged.

Good used Eldelbrock Performer 350 Olds intake..... emissions version All threaded holes have been check and are good. Minor erosion around one water hole. $100 plus shipping. Located in Texas.......... also have 1968 Cutlass parts car.

Interesting concept but if you look at their contact information they only sell/repair for industry. I was going to contact them about our cars but I suspect they would not even talk about fixing individual units. As you can see this is an old post and Rex stopped repairing them about 10 years ago. Eddie Voland in MD has been repairing them for several years and can be contacted at 443-536-9591 I was sent a contact ......George Pleshko in Arvada CO .... there is no date on the information but he was getting $229 for the repair with 18 mo warranty and return shipping paid. He also had units ready to ship priced from $279 to $389 His phone number is 303-421-4869 Let us know if you know of others out there that can repair these units.

For some reason I did in realize or remember those were built on the same body as the Malibu, Regal, Skylark and Cutlass. I don't remembers seeing any of them at car shows..... and that was about the time they did the big back window version (SS) for Nascar. Very nice example thanks for posting the picture.

My '39 Century master cylinder was bolted to the frame and was visible (and fillable) from the engine compartment. The steering column made it more difficult getting a wrench on the cap and also sort of in the way to add fluid.

If your battery terminal looks like this........ I will deduct every time. Owners spend thousands to restore their car and for some reason go cheap in battery cables. So far I have never judged the Riviera class.

I belong to several car clubs and hear lots of conversation between club members. Usually they are here say or just someone's opinion. Two things I have heard with no data............ "Premium fuel has less ethanol than regular" "Marvil mystery oil works just like Sta-bil and cost much less" I was in a tech session for '20's & '30's cars at a national meet and there was several testimonials for Marvil oil

If Hal already has the inserts........ make a deal with him for your used ones.... I am interested because I want to help Reatta owners. I do not need replacement struts And have no interest in reworking them for resale (I have too many irons in the fire) It appears Hal is already several steps ahead of anything I have done and I also believe he will be willing to share how to do the rework.

The mounting for seats varies and since I do not own a Riviera, my sketch is a concept. Some seat mounts are studs welded to the floor..... others have a threaded insert in the floor that accepts a bolt. My sketch assumes the Riviera has a stud in the floor. I suggest welding the stud in the new mounting plate so there is no bolt head holding the bracket up and not allowing it to sit flat on the floor. If you are going to make the brackets, then the method you use depends on how your shop is equipped. You could also use a thicker mounting bracket and thread it..... the possibilities are endless. **** Some seats have the factory bracket bolted to the bottom of the seat... and that opens up another possibility in moving the seat back.... that mount could be modified to move the seat back.

I will pay for the shipping if you would send me one of the rear struts...... there is some possibility that they can be modified with strut inserts. However I need an original to get measurements just to be able to talk to suppliers about what might work.

From the book "American Automobile Paint Code Interchange Manual by Peter Sessler........... 1967 Buick Z code = PPG # 43665 Trivia.... 1967 Buick L code was called "Smoker's Lung Gray"

Here is my input on moving the seat back. The basic version would be 4 brackets all alike.... Not knowing what the floor looks like on your car, the deluxe version is a bracket that goes between both the front and back mounting position... this would be more stable. I'm thinking you need steel .100 to .125 thick. The stud you weld in would be the same diameter and threads as the original so you are not using multiple wrenches. The one controlling factor is the rear mount. You must make the center to center of the mount long enough to get a wrench behind the seat mount so it can be tightened. I suspect the hole to hole will be at least 2 inches. One additional advantage to moving the seat back is when you need to work under the dash you will have extra room.

I agree with you Hal....... easy test is pushing down on the rear fender and see if it moves down. I am wondering if maybe these "new" struts have an excessive gas charge that is holding up the rear.... I don't have the weight distribution filed in memory but it is probably about 60/40 ....the struts may be over charged.

If the issue is still there after you drive the car, you would gain about 1 " by moving the metal spacer to the top. That is providing there is clearance at the top.

Thanks for the education. The next step would be to compare the new strut with the old one and see if they are dimensionally different. Be hard to do with the new ones already installed.

Two attached pictures are my 1991 rear with 28K original miles and original struts (coupe) I can find nothing in the parts book that would indicate the convertible has anything different than the coupe. Since I have never changed one......... what controls the location on the lower mount...the round part goes into a hole in the knuckle and you tighten the bolt. If the strut is not fully seated it would cause the problem you have. I have included a photo of the top of my strut, there seems to be a big (thick) rubber bumper at the top but nothing that looks like a steel spacer.....unless it is on top of the rubber one. *** what if the struts you removed, were not original, aftermarket and the dimensions were slightly different..... look at the top threads on the ones you removed. If you did not use the spacer, would the threads be long enough to tighten at the top? All this assumes the the new struts are the same dimensions as the ones removed.

I would guess it is some device to count revolutions or speed..... it may not be for a vehicle. The wheel runs against a wheel, pully, belt, or gear to pick up the speed of that device. Note it is spring loaded to hold it against something. the other end probably has a fitting similar to a speedometer cable and goes to some sort of readout. I have seen smaller and later designs in fabric stores that are use to measure material as it is pulled off a roll. * Taking a second look........ it is some sort of pump that rides on something that is moving. Note the end port has IN molded on the housing.... the red tube would then be the out.

There are other "modifications" that can be done to suit your seating position needs. First I would remove the seat and clean and lube the two tracks. I have seen some tracks on other GM vehicles that the track can be modified to get a little move travel. There is a stop on the track that can be bent or removed and you can add a stop but usually you only gain 1/2 inch at the most. You can add a spacer under the front mount and raise the front of the seat if that feels better. Last you can add a metal strip to the front and rear (I always bolted them on because I did not own a welder) The issue on the rear mounts is they bend out and the added strip must go forward...and you need room to get to the mounting bolt, this mean you must move the seat back at least 1 1/2 inches for access to the rear bolt. I will be home Monday and will add a sketch so the above is easier to understand.

I agree that it is a 1990 with 2 of the available options. It has the single disc CD player and the optional 16 way seat option. A 60K car in the condition shown should be worth $5 to $7K. If it needs tires that would factor in.

All GM big cars used 5 lug on 5 in bolt circle for years. Certainly everything after WWII when the intermediate cars came out in 1962 those were all 5 lugs on 4 3/4 bolt circle. The only exception I can think of was the Corvair was only 4 lugs from 1960-1964 and in 1965 they went to 5 lugs on 4 3/4 bc. That would mean the Cadillac design wire wheel would also fit your Buick

I would almost give up my GMC for that, and it has almost everything I need, but in Texas it must have A/C

The tire pressure warning was telling me I had a low tire.... so I checked it and it might have been slightly lower than the other tires but am planning on drive over 100 miles tomorrow so my final test was this.......... The plastic tray/pan is sold at home improvement stores in the area with cement.... there are at least 2 sizes and they are pretty cheap. I have a couple and use them for many things, usually when transplanting plants I just dump the pot contents into the pan and mix in additional soil etc. Today I did not want to take that 6 lug wheel off the GMC to check for a small leak so here is my solution. You slide it under the tire from the front so it is not necessary to jack the tire way up. Also I would not use soap (I used high foaming car wash) the foam makes it hard to see small bubbles. Just fill with plain water and look for bubbles............. turns out I had none.

If an internet search indicates the dealer by that name is no longer in business... call the Midland library and they are often quite helpful in getting details like if it closed or was purchased and the name changed. Do an internet search for Midland antiques stores and then call and ask if they have dealers that sell items like what you are seeking. Places like Craigs list for the city might have items listed under antiques or auto parts.

I would pull the tank and have it flushed and sealed. While it might take a few hours and $$$, removing the tank is probably cheaper in the long run in both time and money. Think of all the things bad fuel could screw up..... and you would need to track them down. Once done you can forget the fuel tank as a potential problem