Rod Wise

Have had a later model heat riser and carb on the engine as the correct heat riser/jacket was broken. ( the one on the left is correct for 1925. the one on the right is what I have had on the car ) Picked up a better, correct, heat riser the other day, but unfortunately it has a fine crack. I have the heat blocked off from the manifold and exhaust pipe, so hopefully the crack won,t continue. May drill a small hole at the end of the crack to prevent it getting worse.

They changed from the simple radiator mud pan to the radiator mud pan that enclosed the springs in 1919

Mike, When you look at the electical circuit that Hugh attached, you can see that the whole electical system of the car runs through the ammeter, The starter motor is the only one that doesn,t. As you said, in the past when you pressed the horn button, a discharge showed on the ammeter, which is correct. Anything turned on will show a discharge on the ammeter when the engine is not running. Are your lights working. Check that the wire from the starter motor terminal to the ammeter is properly connected. Is the battery in the right way, -ve to ground/earth. Rod

Kyle, Are you keeping the Roadster

Looks amazing Hugh

Larry, Are they for your Master or Standard. I,ll have to get the bow measurements for your Master some time. I thought both your cars had complete tops.

Hugh, Thank you for the detailed installation of your top. I don,t know when I will get to doing the top on my 25, but I know I will be following your installation closely. I don,t have any top folding mechanism or bows. so will propably make it a fixed top. Rod

Mark, These are a pretty basic oiling system. It may just be a stuck oil gauge which is not registering oil pressure. Or the pipe to the oil gauge may be blocked as Oregon desert said. As you have the pump out, you could run it with a drill to check it is pumping oil. Also when you have reinstalled the pump you could immerse the pump in a container of oil and disconnect the pipe to the front main crankshaft bearing, turn the engine over with the plugs out and check oil flow to the bearings. Just a couple of ideas.

Ken, Kyle is sligermachine. He started this topic on wooden kits for 25 to 27 Buicks in 2017. We have not heard from him for quite a while, so it is good to see him back on the Forum. Any enquiries you have on your 28, it is a good idea to start under a new Topic.

KHenry Buick started producing their following years models in August. So even though your car was manufactured in 1927, it is a 1928 year car. There are no wood kits for these cars, so keep as much of the original wood as you can.

Nice work Kevin, Do you use a Mig, Tig or Oxy to do your welding. I.ve always used Oxy but recently bought a Tig welder so want to learn to use that as it produces less heat.

Steve, The 23 was at Wagga Wagga at the end of March. Don,t know if the Auction was held due to the lock down. Don,t know about the 26, Aussie Buick put that one up. Here,s a phone number for the 23. 0427 202 468

Michael, I lived in Bundaberg for 25 years, but had some land at Kempsey. Recently moved to the land permanently. I had to replace most of the wood on my 25.

Mike, Welcome to the Forum. I have a 1925 Master Buick. and am located in Kempsey NSW. Even though they look the same nothing is inter-changeable between the Master and Standard. Buick were making changes year to year, but many 1926 and 1927 standard parts are the same. Do you have all the body for your car. There is lots of information in the Buick Pre War section of this forum. There are a number of people with 20,s Buicks and If you have any questions there will be somebody who will be able to answer them. Rod

Look like wind wing brackets. They need the rubber for holding the glass in place.

Here,s my car up on a hoist. A couple of tall stands at the front for safety. Or you could lift it up as they did in the past.

Yes Larry, they are the 22" artillery wheels with the 6.00 x 22 tyres. But originally I think it had wires as these are photo,s I got when I purchased the car. I do have 22" wires and hubs, if I decide to go that way.

When I bought this car lots of parts including the brakes were packed in boxes. Thinking ' these brakes don,t look like 25 brakes' ( but thinking at the time, maybe the Master brakes were different to the standard brakes, but looking more like 27 brakes), as at one time I had had a 27 Standard parts car that I had bought for parts for a 25 Standard that I was working on, ultimately finding not many parts were interchangable. Finally and due to the corona virus ( being in lock down, not being able to leave home) I thought I would work on the brakes. After seeing pictures that Larry (Dibarlaw) put up of his 25 Master brakes and looking at the 25 and 26 parts books, I realised they are 26 brakes. Somebody at some time had decided to upgrade to more modern brakes. I,m also missing the correct wheel bolts.

bpolson, The windshield pillars drop into brackets that are attached to the wooden door pillars and the dash. If these backets arn,t properly aligned, the windshield posts will be at the wrong angle.

Here,s an original 1924 reference book on Ebay Australia

Yes Terry, put me down for a set. Would this just be the exhaust rings for the 1918 to 1923.

Hope I can resist the urg to bid on this. Like the wire wheels.

Mark I wouldn,t mind a couple for my 1920. If you can find out the postage to Australia, I can pay by Pay Pal Rod

Mark. Pics of the spark and throttle levers, showing the holes the springs go into. As Morgan said the friction pad then attaches to the spring and rubs against the arc sector.

Kevin Looks like yours is a 1918, Serial numbers for 1918 E models ran from 343783 to 480995. Yours having serial number 362509 would have been built in late 1917 as Buick started building their 1918 models in August 1917.