Rod Wise

David. I agree with Hugh. You don,t need the heat connected. I have bloked off the heat at the manifold and the exhaust on my cars. On my 1920, I give it half choke to start, as soon as it fires close the choke off. I never thought of NZ having a warm climate, 37C / 98F here in Aust, the other day and only the first day of summer.

As others have said it is a 1921 or 1922. The two years were the same. Only difference being a change in the spare tire carrier half way through the 1922 model. 1923 came out with high crown fenders.

Can anybody help with year of these valve cages on Ebay. Oregon Desert has placed the link to the ebay listing in buy/sell. The rocker arms are on their separate brackets. So would be pre 1916. Look very similar to these red 1911 rocker brackets but dont have the oiler in the centre. The top cages are larger than the bottom. Would need to know diameters for a better idea. of possible years

David, Read what Mark Shaw has written about Marvel carburetors, in the topic 1925 Buick Master six convertible in this Pre War section. You can make a new float from wine bottle corks and glue them together. Others on this Forum have said model aeroplane glue won,t dissolve in petrol with ethenol. This 1920 carburetor float pin, the thread is 5.5mm/ 7/32inch outside diameter and the pin is 2.7mm diameter. I would think the 1922 pin would be similar.

As the car was running well before you replaced the float. Sounds like the new float is working too well and restricting flow of fuel at the higher rev,s. Allowing enough fuel at the lower rev,s but not enough when your out on the road

As you can see from the electrical circuit, the starter and generator are on two separate circuits. As Don said, when you press the starter pedal the generator brushes should lift off there commutator and the starter brushes lower onto there commutator. turning the engine. If this is not happening, there is a problem with the raising and lowering of the brushes. Get somebody to operate the starter pedal and watch to see if the brushes are operating. and engaging with their commutatlors. When the ignition switch is turned on, the ammeter should indicate a discharge as the Gen brushes are in contact with their commutator. Ensure the wiring is conected correctly, . Following circuit 3, from the ignition switch to the coil terminal and then to the F ( shunt field) terminal. and the lower gen brush. And the other wire from the ignition switch to the A terminal ( upper brush ) To create a closed electrical circuit.

When you say it won,t spin at all, are you saying it isn,t motoring when you turn on the ignition also.

This 23-45 that came up for auction earlier this year, had centre gear shift. So it appears some had right gear shift and some had centre, depending on where the car came from.

Buick had right hand gear shift and hand brake along with right hand steering, up until 1913 in the U.S. I think they just continued this in commonwealth countries, as there was no need to change over to left hand steering.

Wasn,t sure when Buicks in Australia, changed from right hand gear and hand brake to centre gear change. Saw this 23-45 and it still had right hand gear handle. so the change must have been in 1924 as a 24 six parts car I had, had centre gear and hand brake handles. Would pick it up but it is interstate and the border is closed due to lock down.

cpf, It doesn,t take much to lock these engines up, such as a stuck water pump. This could have caused the starter gear to jamb. The starter gears should disengage as soon as you take your foot off the starter pedal. When you take your foot off the starter pedal, the gears disengage with the flywheel and starter motor, and the starter brushes disconnect from there commutator. If something was smoking, it means the brushes were not disengaging. At the same time the generater brushes reconnect with there commutator. Firstly check that the starter gears are not jambed. You can see these from Dibarlaws photo,s and Morgans video. Then check that the engine is turning using the hand crank. ( remove the spark plugs to make it easier ). If it is not turning using the hand crank, don,t try and force it as you could damage the fibre camshaft gear. In which case you need to find out what is preventing the engine turning.

Terry, I think it was for engine emission monitoring.😁 It,s interesting saying the plug should never be removed for use as a warning or amusement. Wondering if the engine backfires when the plug is removed when driving and the foot is taken off the accelerator pedal. Possibly they used it to help tune the engine.

When you push down on the starter pedal, the gears in the housing are moved backwards, The larger gear at the front engages with the starter motor gear and the other gear engages with the flywheel. There is an over riding clutch in the front gear to prevent damage to S/G when the engine starts. My 25 Master starter motor gear has 12 teeth. There is a grease nipple behind the S/G to grease the shaft. Yours would be easier to get to without the stearing box on the right side. If there are new rollers and insulators in your S/G and it was motoring properly and starting the engine before, I don,t feel this is your problem. The lever that moves the tapered rod back and forward is fixed by a lock nut. The timming of the raising and lowering of the brushes is not adjustable. If it were me, I would oil everything well, get all the gears and linkages moving freely and see if that makes a difference.

Ken That arm does need to go back on the round insulator. That insulator does not turn, the groove only holds the arm in place. Technicaly, the starter motor is not involved with the meshing of the gears, ( but it does turn slowly to assist meshing of the gears). It is the gears in the housing that slide backwards to engage with the flywheel and the starter gear that do the meshing. If the starter motor turns slowly when you turn the ignition on, ( motors ) it is working correctly. If, when you press down on the starter pedal it is hard it is most likely the starter pedal and gears need oiling. There are a number of points that require oiling in what I call the tower ( don,t know the proper name ) and the gears in the flywheel housing. as well as the tapered shaft that raises and lowers the brushes. If the gears in the flywheel housing are not oiled and are not turning freely, they will not mesh properly. Sorry for the poor photoes could not get the camera to focus properly. Arrows show places requiring oiling. as well as the shaft the gears slide on.

165 ci motor showing four engine mounting point and 201 ci motor, bottom pic.

As you can see from the chart that Morgan attached, Your car is either a Model 34 with the 165 cubic inch motor or a Model 28 with the 201 cubic inch motor. The smaller motor is attached to a narrower sub frame at four points where as the 201 motor reaches the chassis/frame at the back and a central mounting point at the front. Posting the wheel base will help us detemine which year/model you have.

Arrow showing insulated roller

Ken Looking at the wiring circuit for the starter motor. When the wire to the ameter is disconnected, the only circuit is from the main S/G terminal through the field coil to the upper starter brush. The top brush only comes into contact with the comutator when the starter pedal is depressed. So a current should only be passing through the starter circuit when the starter pedal is depressed. If the brush is not touching the commutator, there should be no current flow. In the comutator end of the S/G there a many insulators separating the two different circuits, if any of these are old or broken a short can accurr. There is a small insulator roller which is involved when the brushes are raised and lowered. which often breaks causing a short ( you can see it to the left of terminal A in the diagram ) To find a current flowing in a wire I suggest getting a clamp meter which wraps a round the wire and shows the amperage passing through the wire.

Larry, I would like to order one.

Was unable to slide the water pump shaft coupling backwards when removing the S/G. so ended up having to cut it. Able to pick up another from an Aust Buick Club member who had made a spare when making one for his 25 Master which saved me having to make one. The engine was over heating the last time I had it running, so have decided to clean out the whole cooling system. After dismantling the water pump found new flutes had been brazed on, and a nylon bush had been attached to the front of the impellor. Wondering if the bush and lumps of brazing would impede water flow. Still plan on removing welsh plugs/ core plugs to remove as much rust as possible. Has been a long time since I have rebuilt an engine. Hugh, to replace the new water pump shaft do I need to remove the front timing cover to remove the water pump gear, or can it pull out from the back.

KEK It is not the RPM of the generator that meshes the gears. The motoring of the generator and the starting of the motor( when you press the starter pedal ) are two separate circuits. When you turn the ignition on, the generator turns slowly,( motors ) This is to align the gears so they will mesh properly. When you press the starter pedal, the motoring circuit is disengaged and the starter circuit is engaged, As the others have said you need larger cables for a 6 volt circuit than a 12 volt circuit as it is carrying a higher amperage

Thanks Hugh, I,ll try that 56% Silver