Rod Wise

Looks pretty similar to the bracket on my 1920 roadster, to hold the trunk lid open.

Hugh, It sounds like the engine is turning until the water pump hits the housing. So a siezed pump is the problem.

Dave,

Looks Buick to me. 21 or 22 as 23 had drum headlights.

Dave Looking at a previous post of your car, 1923 had crowned/domed fenders, where as 1922 had fenders with a bead around the edge. Looks like yours is a 21 or 22 as the two years were identical.

Philip That looks a beautiful car. Welcome to the Pre war Buick Forum. I am from Australia and have purchased many parts for my cars over the years from the US through US Ebay, as well as members of this Forum who always help in advice and aquiring parts. It does not look as though you will need many parts for your car. Bobs Automobilia is the main go to place for Buick parts, going back to the 20,s. Other members will provide a list of other buisnesses for locating parts. Good luck with your purchase. Rod

Here,s a bit of advice from the Instruction Manual, when things arn,t going right.

Chek that the pionts are opening ( getting a spark ) when the engine is turned over with the cap off.

Thats funny. It,s a 1926 Manual, but the pictures of the top (hood) don,t have the gypsy curtains.

Larry, I,m surprised you have the large clamps on your 25-45. I thought the small rests were used by 1925.

They are covered by the top cover when the top is folded

There,s a 1927 Master crown wheel and pinion on Gumtree. Location Sydney. Add says for a 128" wheel base. 26 and 27 were pretty much the same. Not sure if the ratio,s for the 120" and 128" were the same. Was thinking of getting it for my 25, but already have a spare off a 24 Master.

1912 Model 28

A

Ron, There,s a 27 standard for sale on Gumtree at the moment. He might have some parts for sale.

Ron, Have you contacted John Forster who puts out the Aust Pre- war Buick newsletter. prewarbuicks@gmail.com

Mark I think the 1923 drum lights look better on the 22 than the earlier style lights.

Roger If your car is running well with the existing carburetor, I would not worry about changing over to a Marvel carburetor.

The third down on the right hand side looks the same.

For H & K, 10-26 body and No 3 M-E Spec float bowl with 1 7/16 manifold opening. E3S is stamped on the under side of the float bowl.

Roger This is the carburetor you are after. It has J2H/B on it and H2/1 float bowl

rjp. That is a beautiful 1920 K45 McLaughlin/Buick you have. I have a 1920 K44 Buick, which is the roadster. Mechanicaly the same as yours. There were no changes between 1919 and 1920. From the photo,s you posted, the carburetor on your car has been changed, as the original was a Marvel with a vacume tank. I can not see a vacume tank so am assuming the previous owner connected an electric fuel pump. In Australia the Buick running gear was imported by different companys and the bodies were built in Aust. My understanding is that the same was the case in Canada. So there will be differences between the McLaughlin and US Buicks, but the engine and running gear are the same.

If there are covers on the valves and push rods, it must be a 1919.

The car looks amazing, Hugh.

Congratulations on your purchase. Its a 1912 model 28, with a 201 cu inch motor, with a 108 inch wheel base