1937McBuick

Thought I would resurrect this thread, with pictures this time. Here is what I am looking for. One more pic to follow....

Doing an extensive restoration on my bucket of junk and decided to convert to 12 volt. Probably should have given six volt a chance since everything will be new. Seems everything I remember about 6 volt meant dim lights and slow engine cranking, but as long as it didn't take too much to get it started maybe I should have just lived with the dim lights. I like how some people make sarcastic comments about the phrase " upgraded to 12 volt "!

I don't want to rain on anyone's parade but wasn't there a problem using silicon based brake fluid and it screwing up the old switches?

I wonder if coupes, sedans and slope-backs all share the same ones? Matt Hinson might know.

It may have never been serviced and it could be 83 years old. Do it. If anything it will help with cooling and possibly prevent it from overheating if the cores are bunged up. Did you ever drive this car to know if there is a cooling problem?

Bernie, I'm starting from scratch so I have nothing worth saving/salvaging. I'm hoping the new tires outlast me! I either have alot of faith in the tires or very little faith I'm going to get real old. Guess it depends how much road time this complete restoration sees. I'm not retired and we have lots of winter where I live(Canadian Prairies).

That seems extreme but mine has been out so long I don't remember what I did to get it out. At the very least I'd say the front nose support rods would have to come off and the cooling fan blades. Could it then be tilted toward the engine enough to pull it up and out on an angle. Or could it come out the sides. Use care and finesse. If you're trying to salvage the core as usable, put a thin piece of panel board over the fins, duct tape it on or what ever to hold it in place One thing I will comment on was the weight difference between the rad with the old core in it versus after with the new core. And I don't think it was packed full of crap either. What was the old core made of?

If you want, I can post a picture of them too. It's kinda nice to pay it forward or give something back, I've got help from other people too.

40 or 60 series?

Isn't there bolts through the body (front of the door opening)? I think the hinge straps have tapped holes. That way the hinges would stay with the door, I don't know if that is good or bad...alignment problems? I guess it depends how in depth the restoration is going to be.

Probably hard to see but attached is a pic of the rim I tried to describe. There are more smaller rivet points where the rim attaches to the center piece, therefore more than 4 gaps.

Just to be clear, I did have the steel gasket rings...I removed the dried shrunken cork and used the foam rubber in its place.

Well now I don't know what to think. I bought a set (of five) 650R-16, 3-1/4 Coker wide whites and tubes. They are going on a 37 McLaughlin Buick which supposedly have different rims than their American cousins. I think there were some Chev truck parts used for rims and differential etc in Canada. The 40 series rims are Kelsey made with a tamed down Artillery style look from 1936. Rim diameter-16 inches, rim width-5 inches, hub bore-3-7/16 inches, 6 bolt rim, bolt circle-5 inches, Brakes are 12 inch. I hope everything is ok. They aren't mounted yet, we're not at that stage yet.

Here are a couple of pics on quarter inch grid paper to help with size and dimensions. Do you have the lens gasket rings. They are kind of springy steel with cork glued on them to seal the headlight lens and fit in the inside edge of the reflector holder/adjuster, just a friction fit holds them in until the lens is mounted onto the bucket assemby. They aren't a complete circle, they don't insert into the bottom flat portion of the holder, only around the curved circumference. I just used a quarter inch thick higher density foam rubber trimmed to fit. The lens easily compresses it to form the seal.

I will take a picture of mine and post it later, busy at the moment. I will take pics at a couple of different angles and with a caliper showing measurements. If you are going to make them, use stainless steel or something that won't rust or corrode and stain the reflector. They could be made but it would be tedious work. ps, remember there is no ground wires so you have to make sure a good ground is carried through the whole car. Someone suggested actually running a ground wire and it makes a big difference. Dave Tacheny has been very helpful and good to me. He might have some more to sell.

Ya some pictures would be great. 37 rear fenders had gas tank filler neck on the right fender, 38's on the left. Are the gauges for the temp, oil pressure, charging and gas gauges? All from the dash Speedo and gauge cluster?

Could it just be a pressed fit? Does the end that came out of the housing actually look jagged and broken or a factory finish? You said "pulled out", it's not sheared off flush with the housing is it?

Well, someone found one for me. I didn't find it, he did. He just knew I was looking. Dave Tacheny comes through again. He calls me one day and says "guess what I found hidden on a top shelf"? I said to him, I hope it wasn't an old bottle of whiskey, ...knowing full well that it was probably the lens I've been looking for. He says, I don't have to hide whiskey... Always a good visit with Dave over the phone. It's not here yet but can't wait to get it. Moments like these make this hobby so rewarding. Met alot of good people over the years. Thanks everyone. Stay safe and take care.

Glad you got them out. Sometimes all it takes is a long study session and things kinda make sense.

Thanks for your input everyone.

Or if it's possible dismantle the adjusting mechanism to release the spring pressure.

Too bad someone in the know doesn't chime in with the golden key to unlock the silver reflector. Another thing on the 37 is the cork gasket is in a metal retainer than just kinda snaps into place and stays there with spring tension. Here's another picture of the back side with the headlight adjusting mechanism. It looks like it's spring loaded. While holding the reflector into the cup, from the backside you might have to push the adjusting mechanism toward the front and you might be able to push the peg outward enough to release the one side. The other side looks like its riveted firmly in place but with the one side loose you might be able to manipulate the reflector over far enough to release it from the peg. Then all you have left is the bottom to release, unless you do that first. Be kind and gentle, use finesse. Anyone?.....

The 37's had the reflector slide onto the pegs at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. I had to depress it further down the peg to remove an odd shaped horse shoe clip. Looks like the 39 might just clip over the reflector lip at those positions. After those sides are released the reflector needs to be pulled away from the 12o'clock position and the long straight tab behind the reflector at the 6 o'clock position needs to be "released" that kinda locks the reflector against the long tab that is bent at the end and can be seen from the outside. Once again I included a picture(courtesy e-bay) of the inside so you can see what Im trying to explain. Releasing the long tab requires some force but go slow and be gentle.

All comments and opinions appreciated. Ok I had to Google to see what the vacuum assist fuel pump was. It looks like a dual diaphragm pump. Is the bottom diaphragm only to create vacuum for the wipers and ? When I found my 37(40 series) it never had that style fuel pump on it. And the parts car I found didn't have it on either. Is it only for the 320 engine and a bit newer?