Jump to content

39Cdan

Members
  • Content Count

    51
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

15 Good

About 39Cdan

  • Rank
    '39 Buick Team Member
  • Birthday 07/15/1961

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    kcarr.coffee@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Location:
    Virginia
  • Interests:
    add to '39 Team Members please

Recent Profile Visitors

367 profile views
  1. Thank you Mr. Tinindian. I ordered and received a replacement via ebay. My hunch is after I pull up the floor mat the secret recipe for this replacement will be fully revealed. We've all been here - I once pulled out a dashboard ash tray just because, and had to subsequently reattach the tray knob :) R, Kevin
  2. Hello All, Looked but haven't found the instructions for replacing the light foot switch. While under the car, the switch appears to be hidden by the frame. That leaves pulling up the floor mat which doesn't at all sound appealing. Anyone been there done that? Thank you, Kevin
  3. Good Morning! This time I refused to be outsmarted by an 80 year old car part (although having typed that I've really set myself up) Yes Sir, the middle on-position of the light switch causes current to come back to the light switch and pass from one terminal to another, per the attached (Low beam 7 to 6, Hi beam 5 to 4). The dimmer switch I completely cut away from the harness wiring and ohm'd all combinations of switch settings and terminals - open circuit in every config. - replacement switch on order. So, who can school me on replacing the dimmer switch?
  4. Thank you Mr. 39BuickEight. While I'm "there" it does make sense to replace both switches. The pull switch middle position, I have to wiggle a bit before the tail lights come on. I haven't yet replaced either the light or dimmer switches. Having enjoyed observing your hard-earned restoration, is the dimmer switch replaced from under the car or inside? Thx! Kevin
  5. Thank you Mr. Painter. Pretty sure I have the original switch. Tried all the combinations of light and dimmer switch positions - never got a voltage at the bulb inputs in 'city'. Cut all three wires to the dimmer switch. Makes sense to me that zero ohms should be found somewhere between those wires. Nope, dimmer switch wires are all open to each other. Time to order a replacement dimmer switch. Thank you again for your reply. R, Kevin
  6. Hello again from Norfolk VA. Time to sort out the wiring from the light switch and the dimmer switch to all the bulbs at the front of the car. I have a shop manual with which to validate connections. But I find the shop manual lacking in describing which light switch terminals are supposed to be energized at the three light switch positions. Has someone out there created or ran across a chart of some kind that matches switch positions with energized switch terminals? Thank you, Kevin
  7. Hello from Nawfick. Well, discovered a trick to this although I'm sure there are others. Yes, completely back out and remove the lower adjustment screw (not essential but helpful). Two clip-shaped hold-downs remain at 3 and 9. Push down the reflector at either side just below the clip end. On the pushed-down side, insert the end of a flat-blade screwdriver between the reflector edge and the reflector cup, beside the clip. Twist the screwdriver ever so slightly until the reflector edge clears the clip, and lift out. Watch carefully for other pieces insi
  8. Got it. Strategic cautious force with a flat blade screwdriver. Thx Mr McBuick.
  9. Thank you Mr. McBuick! Same here, pegs/retainers at 3 & 9. Haven't been able to push down the reflector and remove a horse shoe clip. The pegs at 3 and 9 won't move outward or otherwise to release the reflector. There's a trick haven't found yet. Thx, Kevin
  10. Thank you Gents! Very similar. Here's my bucket. I see the tabs you've mentioned. Juuuuuuust want to make sure I apply correct force magnitude/place/direction. Still looking for "Popping out 39 Special bucket reflector for dummies". R, Kevin
  11. Hello again from Norfolk. Get the lights working - next item on my to-do list. I have removed the headlamp bucket and outer marker light assy. I would like to check the inside of the bucket but haven't found the trick to popping out the dish in the front of the bucket. Any advice would be very much appreciated. Thank you, Kevin
  12. Thank you Gentlemen! True statement - repaired with duct tape :) Tried constructing a separator with various material, paper and gasket cork. Stared at it for a bit, with a glass of red. Inserted a layer of duct tape where I believe the separator should fit. I must admit, in this "configuration" the horns are not wired to a hair trigger. Thank you again. Best to all, Kevin
  13. Hello My Friends. Many years ago the previous owner of my '39 Special (an Uncle with a fantastic sense of humor) cut the horn button wire at the steering column contact point. I have wondered why for 12-ish years, yesterday I found the answer. After rewiring the horn circuit and poised to make this last connection - to the column contact - the horns blared with pride. I disassembled the button assembly and must conclude inadequate separation between contacts. Ref Figure 12-51 in the '38 Shop Manual. So, I would be pleased to gain from another's experience in this subject.
  14. Hello Friends. I'm shopping for Carter WDO vacuum switch parts. Know of anyone with a spare plunger and guide block? Thank you!
  15. Hello Amigos. After installing an electric fuel pump and bypassing the mechanical fuel pump, the ol' girl is still very reluctant to start. Found a couple paragraphs in the shop manual that talk about adding/subtracting shims inside the carb vacuum switch. I'm thinkin' I don't have any of these shims in mine. Question - anyone recall how many shims they have in their Carter WD-O vacuum switch? Thank you! Kevin
×
×
  • Create New...