Minibago

Hi Willy, ”Box” short for gearbox. You have a steel gearbox. Glove box discontinued “I think” in 1917. Chassis number on the cross member under the floor boards just at the base of the seat. Engine number above the carburettor.

HB. Based on your response it seems to me that the retaining lip on the rear of the wheel felloe is quite small. I use the following illustration only as an example. This is a DA wheel showing the very small lip. It seems you must have pushed the rim over the lip and as the inner edge of the rim is tapered to seat on the lip it could open up the rim. The outer rim edge has a raised boss to clamp onto. Again, not the correct rim simply as an example. Inner tapered side to the left in the photos The raised boss is somewhat bigger than the tapered side so a smaller inside diameter. Therefore the rim needs to come back over the wheel lip. (Away from the brake drum) Not sure if this is achievable without further damage to the wheel lip. Levers will need to be employed. Question. Is the clamp secure? Perhaps it has opened allowing some rim movement? You are correct in saying this is difficult by text. Good luck, it is very expensive lose a wheel, rim and tyre.

Hi Kevin, All suggestions are covering an issue of not seating properly. This issue relates to moving past the seating lip. In the photos supplied the rim has moved past the retaining lip by more than an inch. Your suggestion of elongation (Ovality) due to damage during the inner tube change has merit but would only cause the rim and tyre to not go on the wheel unless fitted at an extreme angle. My questions are to H Berg. Once we understand clearly how the installation happened we can provide a sensible solution. 1. Is the rim the one that came off this wheel in the first place. 2. Was the rim fitted from the outside (front) not the drum side.

I agree with all you have said Kevin but this still does not address the issue of the tyre and rim being too far in and over the rear lip.

It has occurred but until we understand what has been done we cannot offer accurate advice. My pictures are of an earlier type as that is all I had at the time however the wooden wheel steel outer felloe whilst smaller in diameter has the same retaining lip on the rear (drum side) of the felloe. If the tyre and rim have been fitted with the wheel on the car, was lined up and pushed on but would not go fully on as stated by HB then how has it gone past the lip on the back (drum side) of the wheel? Front, no lip. Rear, lip. Forget lining it up, forget jamming on something, the tyre and rim have been fitted to go over the lip on the back of the wheel felloe. A physical impossibility unless the rim has been spread or it is of a larger, incorrect size. In order to offer the correct advice to solve the problem then the questions asked need to be answered.

Early aluminium box has the mounting “ears” cast in, the later aluminium box has a separate mounting frame (pressed steel support) as does the steel box.

Hi HB, My question is If you fitted from the front, (the hub side not the drum side) how did you get the tyre / rim to go past the felloe lip as shown in your photos?

Would this help?

Did you fit the tyre and rim onto the front of the wheel or the back?

In my experience here in Australia the tyre fitters have no experience nor expertise with our wheels and with the best of intentions, not understanding how they should work can do more damage using their equipment. I am at a loss to understand that if the rim with tyre mounted was offered up to the front of the wheel, (inflated or not) how it can have possibly gone over the lip on the felloe (wheel) and now be jammed past it. The only way I can see this happening is if: A. The rim is a size too big. But you say this rim came off this wheel. B. The rim has opened up under pressure. But the tyre should prevent this and the tyre and rim do not look like this has happened.

I like this one Matt, Coffee and cake!!!

When looking at the wheel on the car the outside of the wheel is the front. The inside of the wheel (the side behind the front) is the back. I am at a loss to understand your predicament as the wheel felloe is designed with a larger diameter lip on the rear to hold the rim with the nuts and keepers on the front pulling the rim up tight against this lip. So logic says it cannot be fitted from the back but also that it cannot go too far over the lip from the front. I note your opening statement. The tyre and rim should fit onto the wheel using your hands only, lining up the inflation valve in the hole provided and the locating tongue to prevent rotation during braking. so more information please. Did you or your local tyre shop use an hydraulic press to push the rim onto the wheel? Perhaps past / over the back lip?

Just to clarify please. You have somehow fitted the tyre and rim onto the rear of the wheel and now cannot remove it. Is this correct?

Compression test then please. I think you are looking at a burnt exhaust valve. Or………an experience I had was with an original two part valve, the head welded to the stem parted company.

This could be a lead. A plug. A burnt exhaust valve. An exhaust too short and exiting under the car. But…… it could also be blow by from the rings causing crankcase compression and blowing fumes out of the oil filler. Remove the plug from number one connect it to the lead and lay it down on the head if you have spark at the plug then it is not spark. carry out a compression test with a proper compression tester to ensure equal compression on each cylinder (should be around 55psi each) check exhaust pipe exit point. Undo the oil filler lid and with the engine running place a plastic or paper bag over the oil filler to see if it inflates.

The tyre is removed once the rim and tyre assembly are removed from the car.

I a perplexed by item 5. The tyre complete with the rim is removed in one piece inflated or not, no flexibility required.

The reason the rim (light green) is so far back from the front of the wheel felloe (dark green) is because it has been fitted from the back. Please see my previous post. Put the wheel back on the car. Fit the rim and tyre.

The should wheel remain on the car. The rim is designed to be removed by undoing the nuts and retaining clamps and removing the rim from the front (outside) Replacement is the reverse of removal. The rim will not fit because it cannot be fitted from the rear (inside)

Remove the tyre and rim from the wheel. place the wheel, drum down, on the bench. place the tyre and rim over the wheel. Or. Remove the tyre and rim from the wheel refit the wheel on the car. fit the tyre and rim on the wheel. The tyre and rim only fit from the outside. You have the tyre and rim being fitted from the inside. The rim has a raised land that locates on the wheel and the clamps hold the rim tight on the wheel.

Great job Matt and fast, as usual. 🏆

The hood bows are for load carrying when you don’t have a ute.

More Petronix information.

I know this is an old post and the issue has been resolved and was not caused by the oil but I would like to clarify some points in this response regarding the recommendation of oil type / viscocity. The cars listed as examples using much lighter oil are later cars with different gearbox design. The gearbox design in the four cylinder Dodge Brothers cars fitted with multi plate clutches disconnects the lower gears / layshaft once top gear is selected. Much is made in this post about the 1940’s 50’s 60’s Landrover and the Military recommendations, with respect, not applicable here. The heavy oil recommended for the late teens early 1920’s Dodge Brothers cars is to assist in spinning the layshaft gear set to allow second to be selected, correct road speed and engine revs are most important. The easiest way to effect a quiet gear change is to drive the car in each gear and note the road speed and engine note. Changing down should be done at those road speeds with corresponding engine revs. Momentum is important so going up hill avoid waiting until you run out of puff, change down at the road speed you should be changing up. If your up change is noisy then you need to increase your speed before changing up. Back to the oil, please take into account the vehicle in question.

No stress Al, just trying to save you some time and suggesting both some interesting and informative reading. Please continue to ask, we have many smart and experienced DB owners only to willing to share the knowledge.