Brooklyn Beer

Is has moderated a bunch especially when i was doing my checks on compression and vacuum. Have not started it today. 4 days off this weekend so will drop the pan and see if any pieces in there.

Yesterday was a normal beer run and hardware store stop. We were cloudy but showing no rain so off I go in the freshly washed and waxed 49 Roadmaster. Get to the store and go in and 3 minutes later this couple comes in soaking wet. WTH? Yep, pop up down burst but of the worst kid. Just enough to drop the Afrikan dust combined with west Texas red silt onto the car in the way of mud. But I have to say Turtle wax Ice is some great stuff. Got up to 55 and the majority of it just blew off !

Pan gasket is on the way. 4 days off this weekend so hopefully it shows up by then .

Hearing aid won't work for being everything was basically destroyed on that side. I will try that idea with the insulation. The 31 is supposed to have a heat shield too I see listed in parts. Found a correct fuel pump.

It is just weird enough to garner a lot of attention for some budget minded person more then the rows of camaro's and mustangs at shows. The 3 speed on floor is great.

Can't ever find these in TX for some reason

alright here is what I got and some good news. The tap tap tap is now less them half of what it was and you can pretty much easily diagnose it being in the lifter area with the scope, even with me only having one ear to hear from. At RPM the sound is all put gone. Did a compression test on the cool motor and came in at 81, 76, 80, 79 front to back. Can live with that expecting 8-10 higher when hot. Vac test from manifold (wiper) port. 18-19 with a little flutter. But 15 at rpm. I found that interesting. I want to change this fuel pump anyways so not going do much with it. I do want to get an oil pan gasket and drop the pan and check the pick up screen. Running 30-35 hot at idle. Old cars are wierd at times for sure. no idea why the tapping was so pronounced and now it is so much less.

Got me thinking. I did smell gas in the oil when changing but was thinking it was blow by on a ring. Really need to do a compression test now for sure to see if the fuel pump is not leaking through.

looks like a fun little car

My first attempt at youtube.

OK, so this morning went out and checked oil. Broke out the scope (I can only hear out of one ear) and with high hopes wished that the elves came and fixed things and chased away the gremlins. Half choke and fired right over and idled down quickly. TAP TAP TAP and not the rap rap rap I thought I was hearing. Scope and it sounds about the same all over. A tap tap tap. Motor at 180. So I started pulling plug wires and did not notice that much of a change till I got to number 4 and that was a much noticeable decrease in rpm. Oil pressure 35-40. When I got this car it had a bad manifold gasket which I changed. Not seeing any leaks from it. That was 3 months ago. Didn't start really driving it to 3 weeks ago with the carb issue. My untrained ear on flat 4's has me hearing valve train noise. This just started out of the blue. One day to the next. Once it cools down I am going to do a compression check on each cylinder. Now am wondering if a collapsed spring, broke keeper, wiped out lobe? Trying to get a vid shortened enough to load.

Going to get into it today and do the checks as recommended. I know odd things happen with old cars but this one is truly odd. Drove it, parked it. Got up, drove it and a tap started that sounded as first like a lifter and when I got the last 1/4 mile home and parked it was a slight rapping. 35-40 psi oil. Turned it off and checked bearing in water pump and genny and started it back up (still hot motor) and it was knocking. I am really not blowing my own gasket over it as in a month I was going to start a rebuild on my first flat head motor for my 46 Dodge that has lots of blow by. This just gives me a motor to do that would have to be done. Sad part is that I spent a lot of time working on the stupid carb and getting that sorted out. Just began enjoying the car after some months !. Have never rebuilt a flat head before and took a long break from cars for 20 years when I was in the military, The babbiting, etc is new to me. Going to be more sourcing a machine shop here is TX then anything else. But that is getting a head of things.

Thanks for the advice. I always let the engines in my cars warm up and always do a quick drive of a mile before putting them up. This time I was just moving from garage to garage so only did a quick spin to the dead end (1/4 mile) so I could line up coming into the driveway and garage. It started knocking (more of a tap to start which I thought was a fan blade hitting something really) as I was 100 yards from the garage. Pulled in and shut the engine down and looked for something hitting. Nope. Some I pulled the belt and the fan spins freely but with a little in and out play. Gen spins free. So put belt on and started it up. (like a dream she starts now Grrrr) and heard a different sound which now seemed like more of rapping. Shut it down and removed belt and started up again and that is when it sounded really like a rod knock. I am running over tonight to pick up an engine stethoscope. I had recently changed oil to my summer oil in TX. 15w40 HD. For winter it was 10w30. Idle oil psi is 32-34. Gets 100 here. It was 96 when I did the oil change on operating temp oil. I have no sludge in the pan but no paperwork on when the motor was done. Only had the car for 6 months.

Well after all the work sorting out the DRT-08 carb and getting the car running very decent it decided to throw more at me. Today when moving cars around it developed a knock. I was pulling it back in the driveway when it started and got in the garage quickly and shut it down. Removed the fan belt and started it up and sure enough, there it is at the front of the motor. Had 35-40 PSI oil pressure and been driving it after an oil change 2 weeks ago. Had it out last night no issue. This morning, not so good. It sounds like it is coming from the front of the motor low and quite pronounced. Don't know much about these early 4 cylinder motors but guess I am about to learn. The inside of the pan was very clean with no sludge I could feel so am thinking it was rebuilt sometime fairly recent. Had not had much time to enjoy the car as the carb crapped out 2 months after getting it. So where is a good place to start ? Any books around on chrysler corp 4 cylinder motors ? I have a good idea of what I need to start on but want to be sure.

I think it all just went to nil as moving cars around this morning it developed what I can only determine is a rod knock or wrist pin knock after a quick 1 mile ride down the hill and back. Pulled the belt and sure enough, there it is in the front lower part of the motor. And it is pretty loud. Not that familiar with these early plymouth 4 cylinders so time to start some research. Just when it got to running good too after all the carb work. I was going to look at rebuilding a flat 6 as a project but think one just might have found me.

I have finally got my 31 PA running, idling, and driving on the correct DRT-08 carb but with the wrong jet idle tube that I was able to get set to factory specs by reaming out the holes in the tube. It will have to do for now as it seems the correct tube is unobtanium. Think I started with a chevy tube but no numbers on it. What I am looking for is what number in vacuum should I be looking for as I work dialing it in. Also psi for compression. Working from the factory carb sheet has gotten me this far. I never knew just how small a size #62 drill rod actually is till I needed one !

I just disconnected the wires on the vacuum switch and ran new (cloth covered) wire to a hidden push switch on the bottom of the column and back to the starter. Key still works as normal.

Like to see it, sure. Post here

This should have had a 361.

The virus can't handle the wind, gets confused !

I never ever refered myself from even being from NY. I always said right on the Great South Bay about in the middle of Long Island. Now Long Island is about as bad as NYC. hence I am in TX. What about "Down the shore" ?

If I remember right the "Scrounge Lounge" used to be in Saugerties..

Now that really is worse then a virus !

I saw that. Works like a slip and slide. Driving on the tire seems easy. If the bead stuck I was going to toss it in the press. I don't even know if I am going to save but one of the tires for the spare but would like to inspect the tubes or would cut them off with a sawzall. The one that goes flat has a cracked valve stem. Want to get all the tires off then sandblast the rims and repaint. Is anyone making the pinstripe decal ?

The tractor tire guys here do them by hand. Even the rears. Talked to them about it. About the same price. I am not scared about doing them myself as I have the tools, was just curious if there was any hints or tricks I might need to know in comparison to changing another type of tube tire. Soap on the bead, lots of powder on the tube, be sure of no pinching.