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1929 pontiac coupe man

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  1. i have been contacted for over 35 years about wood structure, the body wood and the most common question asked is how to replace missing pieces i always reply choose the right wood (there is only one wood to use white ash nothing else will produce a lifetime product as ash produces very fine very little pourous wood to start for finished product secondly be-prepaired for a lot of waist that is why i use white pine cheap ad easy to model if this is tour first time and use a soft wood you will find no drawings with measurements once you overcome the challenge as i did you can obtain very good books of the wood structure for all models with no dimensions this is intentional as gm did not want computers to know it took me awhile the method i use to give you the answer as this is how i reproduce mine eveyone has to learn the same way as i did no one helped me it has to do with body bolt location and distance between them the you calculate distance and then you can calculate width thickness curvature and angles i used a laser hooks up to drafting software to develope a digital picture and before you know you have every piece for the wood structure i now have a computer that can reproduce any wood part i need by cutting and shaping each perfect piece except no 2 cars are the same there is always a slight difference between cars so slite with this setup taking about 2 to 3 months to complete a full wood body replacement i do not sell my wood parts these are only four my restoration projects when i restore one
  2. just so you know your facts i just finished a 1929 coupe using 2 dr cabriolet doors it is a convertible sports coupe with a rumble seat 7 months ago i just heard from him 1 month ago he just won best in show class at a show in california and won 3,500.00 in prize money for his entry such as like i originally relay too you they fit and work when you restore cars for over 57 years do you think if they did not work i wood waist my time since the customer supplied me with the doors and the rumble seat from a cabriolet !
  3. except he left out a few details all cars from the beginning to about early to almost 1934 were all basically the same structure metal frame including the fenders and bumpers radiator shell have a wood structure made and finished clamps jigs with glue bolts and screws once done the sheet metal was applied with mails and screws and seams were lead filled smoothed sanded primed and painted including fenders then bolted to frame as one complete unit this why so many people have so much trouble now restoring these beauties but i should point out that there were some cars that had wood frames and wood bodies the only metal were bumpers engine radiators it is amazing these cars were well made strong and dependable and wow when you see them and works of art with wheels there lies the problem with these old cars no 2 even same cars are exactly the same they all have slight differences in length width and due to each one is unique to it's own
  4. this is a tough one it's what you want it to look like you may have to remove the sheet metal covering the door jam i have talked to a friend of mine he suggested if the wood is solid to drill and tap the old broken screws to back them out or just drill out the whats left and plug them with some very hard large dowels so you can red rill and then rethread the wood for nos screws unless you can find some original and have them replated i have seen where there is dryrot and they just remove and make a new insert piece then epoxy glue it in the refinish the hole area then match the paint and red rill for new hinge screws it all up to what you want and your i always before trying to remove used a penetrating oil for a few days to let it soak in it is what you want
  5. i am looking for 1929 pontiac coupe body and other partsi live in oregon i had 1 response but seller never responded to my needs
  6. i have contacted jim autwood from autowood wood parts he states he can reproduce any gm product as long as you give the old piece to him and stated its better if he has the car there so he can fit it but to note chevrolet and pontiac wood are not repeat not interchanging with each other simply put pontiac is longer and wider than chevrolet or you cannot take a short piece of wood and make it work if it's to 3" to short to fit he also stated all the gm wood structure books show generic drawings with no dimensions to save money i have talked to 2 people that had there wood from a 1932 pontiac coupe made by him not cheap using premium white furniture ash is top notch it took almost 7 months to get back all the pieces please note if your like most of us and on a budget you can do it your self with a lot of patience and do not hurry make a pattern out of cheap wood and have the tools needed to make the good pattern you can do it
  7. I have restored these 26 to 32 pontiacs for over 57 years there are a few modifications that have been made from original if you were going to show this car for points you would be dinged about 15 points for alterations in the engine compartment and a few for alterations from the original front seat where is the wood frame as this is a bench seat with pull forward tops not buckets #1 The engine temp gauge is not hooked up to the last head bolt on drivers side next to firewall where it should be the head bolt should have a threaded shaft on top and the temp gauge screws down on it. The horn bracket is not original the horn should be above the engine block to keep the high temp from the horn the horn bracket is also missing the cork insertion gasket to shield the horn from heat i could go on but that would detract from this nice looking car and priced reasonably for what you get too many are over priced there is a justification since people think that just because a car is old it is valuable not true it is what someone is willing to pay due to the cost to replace the wood but that is the way it is you very seldom on these cars ever get back what it cost to do we do it for the love of these work of art that the craftsmanship is lost with time but the 29 true roadster fisher body and then the hollister body ones that have the real value as much as 50 to 75 thousand or more the 32 is the king of value sometimes i have seen all original roadster's nothing touched go for 125 thousand the hollister body the 1929 oakland roadster is the king going for as much as 150 thousand ones are really hard to find and are even harder to find all original there are a few in australia but getting back to this car i think it is priced right for what you get but good inspection will tell the facts such as dry rot around door posts tops and bottom floor joints trunk wood around frame and wheel wheels and how sound the doors when open and closed these are really heavy doors and around the splash aprons for rust and weather does it have the original blossom semi coincidental mechanical ignition lock assembly which locks the transmission in neutral when key is removed and if it still has mechanical breaks or has been upgraded to hydraulics it seem to be accepted in some shows to upgrade the breaks for safety reasons the rule for mechanical is you leave a lot of distances between cars especially when they get wet i never drive mine when raining for that reason i would not want to damage my 29 holister body roadster
  8. it is sad but there are no such drawings with dimensions for any gm car built for 1926 through 1932 that is why all the drawings are generic or the same except for the different models and styles and makes they look the same if you have really good drafting software you can make your own with dimensions i did the same thing i did not waste any wood i have a full size plot printer and can print out 8 foot drawings i started by using gm wood structure books for the base input i took photo of the page and then i took actual measurements on my car for the sill boards i measured from the cowl bracket hole that goes through the frame to the rear hole next to the frame next to the rear fender well then i measured from the inside frame to the cowl skin and angle the door and the rear fender well to get accurate dimensions for thickness of wood i had to measure from the top of frame to about 1/32 " above running board splash apron to the top of cowl bracket bottom that has 2 holes i input all the dimensions and applied to scale at 100% i got accurate wood patterns i then contact a company about reproducing wood parts they cut the wood using a laser no wood mistakes looks perfect and smooth for car i got a perfect piece back and fit really nice i then sent the second drawing for the drivers side i got back the second one just as nice and both out of white ash i then proceeded to the door posts and rear section wood and finally the roof took approx 1.5 years to finish and is perfect in quality my sport roadster looks like it came from a new dealership
  9. since i posted the original response there is an old saying if you do not know how to do it and are really not good with wood working you better be prepared for a lot of waist of wood and remember only use white spruce gm has the books with pictures of the wood structure for the bodies i had the same delima there are no dimensions but with the pontiac there is a easier way but remember all the gm cars show the same wood structure with the same photo's but not easy and a lot of work and you need a good drafting ssiftware to go on computer you have to start with the basics you have to measure from the hole from the cowl bracket to the center of hole about 4.5 feet just in front of the rear fender for both sides and 3 inches and then add the distance from the front hole to cowl bottom that will give you the approximate length of the sill boards then you have to measure from the inside frame to the inside of body skin for basic dimensions of width and length the problem will be the thickness and to save on wood i used really hard fiber board to keep shape until i got it perfect i hope you get the basic idea and remember no 2 cars are the same each one is slightly different remember 1929 no computer no high tech machines just steel rivets wood and sheet frame and sheet metal metal screws and bolts it is a lot of time consuming frustrating work i spent over 2 years rewooding my car and i'm pretty good at wood working you will need a lot of jigs clamps
  10. 1st of all do not panic most likely either the roll pin broke or the camshaft broke the gear on the shaft these are designed to do this to prevent major damage you will have to remove the oil pan to access the oil pump you will have to remove the camshaft and lifters to check for gear teeth damage you have to remove the radiator then remove the harmonic balance unbolt the front cover then remove the the bolts that hold the camshaft in the cam should pull right out check for broken gear teeth if fine prepare for putting back in use prelude on journals and lobes look for the gear in the oil pan or whats left make sure you remove everything if it is destroyed no problem just replace the gear and roll pin for dist. make sure when you reinstall the mushroom liter use prelude on them remember these are direct drive for oil pump not changed in over 50 years of engineering still the same then you have to retime the engine since the timing chain and crank are way out sinc no problem there are timing dots on the cam gear and crank gear line up both dots crank on top camshaft on bottom then put chain on reseat the cover then reinstall then install the harmonic balancer after that reinstall the oil pan reinstall the side covers and the breather tube then to retime the distributor remember the engine timing is on the heads below he distributor the really easy way is start at 0 deg then use a timing light and with ignition on turn the distrutor until the light flashes not sure off hand on 28 what it is have to look in my service book to see just try until it runs good remember do not use modern oil for these engine's ar not designed to run on them they used parifine based motor oil and use some lead additive for fuel unless someone has replace the valve seats with hardened ones or just use some octane booster added to fuel remember regular in 1929 was 100 octane unleaded fuel is not good for these engines because low octane
  11. the value is determined by the internal workings even if the engine is frozen does not mean it is bad i have seen engine that have not run for 50 years frozen up solid and still good but value is low if it does not turn over freely value is low due to what it takes to free it up kit can take up to 2 weeks to lube all internal parts i found 1 that was in a car left in a field for over forty years it took 2 weeks to free it up and ran really well the easiest way id drain the oil pan to see what coming out if there comes metal parts then full rebuild about 6,000.00 labor and parts but if engine turn over freely usually about 250.00 - 700.00 is the going price unless you know the mileage on engine if stock these are cast iron pistons and last along time
  12. yes up through 1932 and were discontinued for 1933 using steel wheel
  13. i am still looking for the doors for 1929 pontiac coupe i had 1 member contact me asking if i was still interested i relayed yes haven't heard back ? when i asked to see photo's and price and asked in what state they were at
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