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Found 7 results

  1. A friend of my grandfather has been telling us for years that GM car's from the early to mid-1930s had chassis made of wood and then were boxed in by metal? But my grandfather has also heard that 1920s GM cars were the same way. My question is, is there any truth to this? Thanks in advance. Vintagecarguy.
  2. Not sure if this is the best place for this question, but here it is. I have been in the process of doing a total re-wood of a 1930 Buick four door sedan, the big one, for many (too many) years. As I near the end of the process, a nagging question comes back to me. Should a person "screw and glue" the connections and joints throughout the body, or just screw them together and leave it at that?? The Fisher Body Service manual says that joints are "screwed and glued" throughout the book, almost every time a joint is described. However, my local restoration shop and others never glue their joints and say not to. The pros for "screwing and gluing" are maximum strength and less chance of squeaks. The pros of screwing without gluing are ease and the ability to readily replace bad or damaged pieces of wood in the future. What is the current school of thought on this? Also, what is the best treatment for the wood when done, other than the asphalt-based coating Fisher Body used?
  3. Looking for replacement lug bolt for wood wheels. The bolt is approximately 3" long, about 7/16" diameter. The top of the head has one half of it bent up to clamp onto the wheel. My husband got a little strong tightening back on the wheels and snapped two off. Looking for a source to purchase these?
  4. Classic cars on wood made by the technique of handmade pyrography. I can do custom pyrography after your desired model. Bucciali TAV 8-32 "Fleche d'Or" or Golden Arrow, model made ​​in 1932 100% handmade pyrography on birch wood + 3 ecologic varnish layers(30/19.5 cm) Price: $80 + Shipping
  5. I am in the process of restoring my 1932 Pontiac Deluxe Sport Coupe and have stripped the car down to the structural wood on the body. I am looking for some help on how to take care of this part of the restoration. In general the wood is very good. I need to do some replacement or repair of the wood around the top of the body where the top material is nailed. I also have some wood on the main sill that needs to be replaced. Here are my questions: 1) I was told that West System Epoxy 105 is a very good way to seal the wood. Anybody have any experience with this? Any other products used to seal the wood? 2) West Marine Penetrating Epoxy was recommended for wood that was a bit soft and weathered. It is supposed to make the wood as strong as new. Any experience with this? 3) I have been debating what to do with the joints that seem good. Should I unscrew them, coat with epoxy, glue, and screw them back together or if the joint has lasted almost 80 years don’t fool with it. Just coat with waterproofing epoxy and forget it. 4) Any advice on re-installing screws into existing holes when reconnecting pieces that have to be removed, restored, and replaced? Should a size larger and longer screw be used to get a good bite on the wood after treating? Is there some type of epoxy that you can put in the screw hole to make the joint better? Any other ideas? 5) Some of the nails holding the sheet metal are a bit loose. How do you recommend re-fastening these? Longer? Slightly bigger? Some type of glue in the hole along with the nail? I appreciate any information you can provide me. Rob
  6. What's the best way to care for the wood trim on my Riv? I was talking to someone who suggested boiled linseed oil in mineral spirits (which us what he uses for teak). Thoughts?
  7. I need to replace the top wood in my 1927 Dictator and my 1931 model 54. Does anyone sell the paterns for this?
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