Hazdaz

That's almost $41,000 in today's money.

Leather is a natural material so of course there will always be certain cracks and imperfections, but if treated properly, leather seats can outlive the car.

KongaMan, I was going to write the exact same thing. This is what the mechanism should look like.

Give those poor white seats some oil, stat!

I absolutely consider myself a "car guy" and my tastes aren't just for classics. Heck, while I always liked the looks of older cars, I really never considered owning a classic prior to about 6 months ago. Then the bug kind of bit me and I bought the Riv. Went from just randomly checking out classic car sites just for the heck of it, to must-buy-it-now in a few short weeks. Alone with the Riv, im a big Subaru fan. I havent seen a single foreign make posted on here, but I'm currently on my second WRX and can expect for that not to be the last. I also like older European cars, and besides the Subaru, I also like a lot of newer American cars now that they are finally building good cars again. I love modern Cadillacs, the new Camaro and I am a huge fan of the Chevy Bolt and Volt. I don't think being fuel efficient and environmentally responsible is contradictory to being a "car guy". If it's got good engineering and/or nice styling and/or is just a fun car to drive, I'll probably like it. If it's a little different, even better.

Rivnut, that sounds like a plan. I'll take apart the corner housing and see what I can do, but since it's open like a grill, I should be able to figure something out.

Anyone else notice that when taking a turn at night, basically no light shines to the front of the car on the sides? Now that it's getting darker sooner, I've noticed taking a few turns and I'm basically turning blind because the headlights are still pointing forward so I totally can't see what the turn looks like. Using the high beams helps a little, because it's a wider area of light, but you can't be driving with high beams all the time. I wonder if fog lights would help with this. Or would it just be easier to replace the regular headlights with LEDs or other more modern lighting tech. I can't be the only one who has noticed this issue.

Can I piggyback a thread about carpets and ask about floor mats? I have some blue floormats that don't match the gorgeous blue loop carpet in the car ('64). I really hate these floor mats. They look like some horrible 1980s cheapo replacemnts that just dont go with the rest of the interior. I'm on the ACC site now and they surprisingly don't have good pictures of the mats. It's just a tiny pic of the pile of the carpet and none of the overall mat. Am I missing something here? Wouldn't it be nice to see at least one pic of the floor mats? I know you guys are talking about carpet, but how's the quality of the mats?

Woah. That color combination is dreamy.

Rivnut, polished aluminum will tend to have a lower convective coefficient of heat transfer than a rough one. With a polished surface you are essentially flattened the microscopic surface roughness far more than a raw cast surface. All those nooks and crannies allow heat to transfer (more surface area touching the air). Paint would essentially be like wrapping a part in super thin blanket. The effect is probably minimal, but paint would negatively affect heat transfer.

You might want to try something other than spray adhesive. 3M VHB tape is super strong as long as you prep the two surfaces properly.

Ed, I wish it was still cloth and vinyl... The seats look cool, but damn do you get sweaty in the summer time. Same reason I don't like leather in cars.

According to the tag, it's a 611. BTW, the vinyl is a metallic blue, if that changes anything.

Ii have a similar issue with the driver's side vent window. I had the door skin off and it looks like the gear box for that crank (mine is manual, not motorized) is riveted on. Is that correct or did I not look long enough at finding the fasteners? I really regret not taking photos of it so i could refer back to them. Anyways concerning the gears themselves, bronze is perfectly fine if the gears are meshing correctly. There isn't high torque or high speed, so as long as they are aligned and mesh nicely there shouldn't be a problem.

Looked at the local Barnes and Noble and I don't think they carry this magazine. What's the best way of getting a copy?

This is #601, correct? BTW, how big of a nightmare would it be to convert a car from one code to another? I absolutely love the saddle and fawn interiors, as well as the white ones, but looking around you'd have to replace EVERY single interior piece. Unlike on a modern car where different color interiors might only be a few trim pieces, on these Rivs, from the carpet to the headliner and everything in between is blue. This looks like it would be an absolute nightmare to do right?

If you can snap a new more pics, it would be much appreciated.

Visually I like the way they look, but how bright are they? And is it a "good" brightness or does it blind oncoming traffic? Any night time pics? Personally I'd like to go LED, but I haven't done enough searching yet to see if they even exist.

Wow. I really thought I had this problem solved. Or at least narrowed down to one major leak area. Nope. So I had limited time to try this but I had previously siliconed up the perimeter of the rear glass. Came home and hit the rear half of the car with the hose, popped the trunk lid and there was water in the trunk. Ok, so I took some masking tape and taped the perimeter around the glass (the area I siliconed) and hit it with the hose again. Popped the trunk lid and again there was water. Taped the side chrome trim pieces (right over the rear fender hips). Hit it with the hose again, and once again water. Taped up around the trunk lid seam, and wouldn't you know it, once again, water in the trunk. So while the trunk lid, rear window and/or the side chrome trim might be letting in some amount of water, there is still some other larger leak. Now I know a little bit of water is coming in from the taillights, but this water is in toward the middle and rear of the trunk so I'm not counting any taillight leaks. I'm seriously floored right now.

I do have the Body Shop manual, actually. I had missed the section which had info about that bottom trim and only found it after I already took them off. I need to get the powertrain repair manual next. I re-chaulked the rear window per what the manual showed, so I'll be reinstalling the trim tonight, I hope.

No clue. Bought the car like this. I'm actually not entirely sire what the stock controls look like.

So guys, is there anything behind the striped trim behind the rear window trim? (See pic below) I got the rear window trim off and inspecting the gasket around the glass but I'd also like to make sure there are no holes underneath that trim. I tried lightly shoving a screwdriver underneath and it really didn't seem to move easily. I was also in the trunk earlier and I don't recall seeing any screws that might have been from the inside holding that trim piece on. How is it held in place and what is below it? Inquiring minds would love to know.

A smaller sized tablet would definitely fit in there. If my heater controls weren't there, I'd definitely consider doing that and having it more integrated into the console. Concerning the print itself, I own a couple of printers and have access to a few more. Designing stuff like this is what I do for a living as an engineer so its no biggie. Don't believe what you hear though when it comes to metal printers. They exist, of course, and prices are coming down all the time, but desktop ones are a long ways out. Still there are service companies that will print metal parts for you, or simply stick with plastic. For non load bearing parts, they are typically perfectly fine. Of course a third option is milling or turning a metal part if one doesn't want or able to print them.

Bob, I took out the taillights and the gaskets look very good actually. Still, I siliconed up a bead around the mating surfaces on the housing so that should be sealed up no problem. (I let the silicone mostly dry before I reassembled everything so it's essentially acting as a gasket that should come off fairly easily if I need to). I didn't seal the lens yet though. That's tomorrow's project. But we did get some nasty torrential rain the other day and some water came in, but not as much as before. I'm thinking there might be multiple small leak and the steps I've done have eliminated at least one or two of them. I was also busy last night and tore apart the interior pieces of the car (minus the seats) and took out the rear shelf. There was some surface rust on the back shelf but nothing terrible. I sprayed that down already with Rust-Oleum and will see how that looks tonight. Because all the trim around the inside of the rear window was removed I could see that it doesn't look like water is coming in from there. At least not into the cabin. The gasket around the glass looked very good and intact. Before I reassembled the interior, I want to remove the exterior trim around the window but I couldn't find the steps of how to safely remove them in my body shop manual. Maybe I missed it. The search goes on,but as always I appreciate everyone's help and suggestions.

Designed and make a custom phone holder for my '64. I almost always use it for my music (my stereo has an AUX jack) and of course GPS, so it's super convenient and blends in decently well (for a modern piece of electronics into a 50+ year old interior, of course). My heater/AC vents are not stock and one day I'll convert them over to a more stock looking set up, but they work so that's good enough for now. The actual phone holder is 3D printed and I customized it to my specific Android phone. Figured some of you guys probably like tinkering with stuff like I do, so maybe some of you guys will like it.