moran75

Hi John Re the pic of the parts book - can you help me decode/understand 😀 My first instinct is to say AT is auto trans for obvious reasons…but how can CT be manual trans? Is CT diff terminology for manual trans? Or am I barking up wrong tree! Also which listing are you interpreting as Gran Sport specific? cheers kev

I reckon so...depends what shipping is 😀...but seriously, I'm sure shipping will be OK as im overseas (UK) and am always buying from the USA BTW re the part number - it doesnt match what i've been told in past is correct for a '65 carter AFB model 3921S, thats not to say what ive been told is right...and elsewhere i see 'your' part number as being good for '65-66 BUICK 401CI' which would include me.......I think I'm very willing to take a gamble but i want to compare yr pics with my car next time im with it in next couple of days One question...on back of circular body is there a number stamped? Is it the part number on the box by any chance? Many thanks for your help Kev

Great news…how much would you want for it? kev

Hi all Hopefully someone can help.. Model is Carter 3921s and I believe the housing (example pic attached) is model specific… I realise it’s more likely that someone would want to sell a complete carb…but I live overseas (UK) and I’d like to keep shipping costs/import tax to a minimum.. if you can help drop me a line.. many thanks kev

Many thanks…it’s a special order paint option…invoice states ‘arleutian grey’ which was a Cadillac colour I’m told…to be honest it’s had patches resprayed over years so don’t know how much is actually technically original paint…but unless sun is beating down you’d never know 😀

London, England 0207

Funny what you find out on the group 😀. Don’t know where I got the impression that the clams only close with engine running - I’m rarely out after dark and I tend to remember to close before getting out of car…tested the other day and they do indeed close with engine off, key ‘on’ as you clarified….so belated thanks for making me aware! Cheers Kev

that's assuming I'm right about 'correct' operation - however we should look on the bright side - at least our clamshell motors havn't burnt out 😀

Hi Mark On mine - and i believe it is as per factory spec - they only close when engine is running. So if I switch off engine first and then turn off lights, clams will only close when i run the engine again. Cheers Kev

Can you let me know what brand/model gauge you used? thanks kev

I’m certainly no expert either but as a keen amateur I’d start by checking the vacuum modulator and it’s connecting hose on passenger side of trans..if not working or vacuum is being lost at hose then might explain at least some of your symptoms ….the vacuum from engine is used to help change gear via modulator…and it’s as cheap place to start 😀 cheers kev

Ran into this ‘66 today just outside London, England..think they made a lovely couple.. a new purchase I believe:..I encouraged owner to join the club of course… kev

Wow...that’s a long drive and a lively car...out of interest any problems on the drive , other than fuel consumption? 😀

I’m on a roll....One other thing...ask him for a pic of data plate..not only will.this tell you how car looked/what options it had when left factory (if originality is of special interest to you) but perhaps more importantly if his attitude to providing this is negative, such as he doesn’t know where it is, it’s too much like hard work for him to do it or if he takes it as some kind of attack on his credibility - that somehow your checking his claims- then it would def turn me off...that sort request for info is routine in my opinion... if he does send it then google how to decode it...all interesting stuff anyway

I’m not intimately knowledgeable of interior of a 63 but gear stick (as we call it in UK) def looks all wrong ..seems too long/high and the plastic shroud is def wrong...why is it there and what’s it hiding..def want to look under there.. I’d even go as far to ask question what type gear box is it attached to...is it original/correct replacement or some kind of Frankenstein! I know what it’s like to search endlessly for THE car, especially in the UK ..but to me the car is already asking too many questions...especially at the price ...seems like he’s dropped price considerably cause no one wants it and he really wants to get rid of it... id def want to get to bottom of the Californian black plate thing...the car currently has a black plate but it’s a UK plate so that is no evidence...for that claim I’d want to see proof (black plate cars from Californian are potentially big bonus because of the climate) plus receipts for all the work that’s been carried out...people can claim anything but some claims that supposedly add value need to be backed up in my opinion...

Interestingly I had searched and found that listing earlier today...but description immediately differs as the listing I found claims engine had been rebuilt (yours doesn’t ) ...doesn’t fill me with confidence to start with. I’ve attached a screen grab. but if he’s on level he’ll happily clarify and give its history..eg how long has it been in UK, evidence of Californian life etc...

I’d start with CARS - Old Buick Parts. They have an online catalogue. is it for sale on line? Post a link so we can take a look - won’t tell a complete story but could get an idea of plot... like you I’m based in UK so I agree we are not blessed with 1st Gen Rivs. So personally I wouldn’t immediately discount car ...positives MAY outweigh negatives after due diligence. In my case I ended up liking stateside and for me worked out very well. Doesn’t for everyone. That’s a subject for another day.. look for rust on trunk floor ..it’s gens can suffer there. Trim around rear screen traps water which rusts through into trunk. personally as a starting point I put a lit of weight on how much history the seller knows about the car and his enthusiam/knowledge of the marque. And his general attitude. Shows if he cares about the car and therefore how likely he will have been to maintain it properly. He should at least know if it’s numbers matching. I’m funny like that. I could waffle on all night. Give me a call if you like. DM’d you yesterday. Where is car? If in South East I could take an objective look for you...I’m very nosey when it comes to Rivs. kev

Hi I live in the UK (London) and own a '65 - i'll DM you me my number for a chat. Note I'm not as tall as Ed China but i can shine a light on owning a Riv in the UK. Kev

Yes, It does...bought from CARS cheers Kev

By way of an update..... Checked all belts and yes, you've guessed it, they were not tight enough... So with help of a pry bar and a Krikit got them sorted as per manual... Had a 150 round trip today mainly on the motorway with a few breaks in-between and again car seemingly ran really well with no overheating/mishaps BUT the occasional 'screech' was still there, beginning after my first stop (when starting up again) approx 40 miles in - and thereafter when starting up after a break...i also heard it once when joining the motorway on the way home but it quickly subsided.... Also before setting off the fan seemed not to be moving freely as it should - not that it should free wheel of course , but I wasn't getting a full spin... So as i have a new fan clutch I think i'll put it on - probably good practice anyway as the one that's there is of unknown vintage - but will stop there (leave waterpump) and see if it solves the 'issue' before it progresses... Thanks all for your help Kev

Thanks all.... I’ll check belt tension next time I’m with the car, I’ll look to get one of this Krikit gadgets...as up to now I’ve used the famous finger method.BTW belts are relatively new. As per my original post I was initially focusing on the fan clutch but maybe that’s a red herring ... I’ll keep you posted. all the best kevin

Ill double check that... Assuming OK what do you think about the alleged necessity of changing water pump at same time as a bad/old clutch? All the best Kev

Hi All Every thing is stock on car including idiot light, fan shroud, fan. Nothing added/altered. I stress car is NOT overheating. Runs great. Idles great. No leaks from rad/water pump etc. No noises that make me concerned. EXCEPT towards end of a 30 mile trip the other day i noticed a short but noticeable screech when parking, but only when i stepped on gas. Coming from fan clutch 'area'. I must admit I've never paid any attn to my fan clutch before. There is no obvious free play and it doesn't free wheel - but its obviously old and dirty and the the coil looks rusty. Have driven it round town sincw, not massive distance, and no screeching. Anyway Its obviously worth replacing the clutch. I have the correct one from CARS. But i have read that its a very good idea to also change the water pump at the same time - I think the theory is because a new clutch would put new strain on old pump and vice versa. Looking for some opinions as to whether also changing the water pump is REALLY necessary in my situation? I don't want to wrestle with a seized water pump bolts etc and all the faff that goes with it unless i really need to. I'd much rather just change the fan clutch and if the screech reappears then go back in for the more major surgery of a water pump. Would anyone agree/disagree? Thanks in advance Kev

aha...makes sense..moral is to always look up as well as down just thinking out loud - is it just me or is the trunk a little bit spartan on a 65? Trunk light for example just a bit cheap looking? Just as well the outside looks so good !

Hi all just out of interest does anyone know what this ‘hook’ like thing is for? There’s one on other side as well... all the best kev