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moran75

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Everything posted by moran75

  1. Aha...see what you mean re grommet ...I was thinking it had to be 100% air tight... So maybe carb cleaner is getting in through the clamp and each end of my pcv hose - nipple at one end and valve at other but I was thinking that revs would go up, rather than down when source of leak sprayed? kevin
  2. Hi Bernie thanks for response. can I check one thing - if I’m spraying carb cleaner directly onto PCV valve and it’s grommet and RPMs change (reduce in this case ), then carb cleaner is getting past the grommet/seal - which shouldnt be possible if grommet/valve make a good seal? Thanks in advance kevin
  3. Hi all I appear to have a vacuum leak at the PCV valve /grommet... I say that because RPMs drop (not increase) when I spray with carb cleaner...car in Park , not Drive. Both valve and grommet have been replaced - but rpms still drop with the spray... Is there a way making a better vacuum seal? I see wrapping valve with electrical tape has been suggested on the forum ...anyone tried that ? any opinions /experience welcome kev
  4. Hi all my heat/air system has never worked properly, but that’s ok - I can live without either...not a priority ... BUT what I have done is break off the vacuum nipple at the heat door diaphragm...so I now def have a vacuum leak..and possibly others hence system not working. As I’m in no rush to repair everything , but want to avoid performance issues no matter how small or inaudible to untrained ear, how about plugging the ‘main’ vacuum hose from the T at back of carb...therefore isolating the whole heat/AC system ? is that feasible or would it create unforeseen problems? Thanks in advance kev
  5. Hi all hear me out on this one🥴 my heat/air system has never worked properly, but that’s ok - I can live without either...not a priority ...currently researching , will get around to it one day.. BUT what I have done is break off the vacuum nipple at the heat door diaphragm...so I now def have a vacuum leak.. This got me thinking....I potentially already have other leaks elsewhere in system... As I’m in no rush to repair everything , but want to avoid performance issues no matter how small or inaudible to untrained ear, how about plugging the ‘main’ vacuum hose from the T at back of carb...therefore isolating the whole heat/AC system ?! Thanks in advance kev
  6. Hi and happy NY At some point soon I’ll need to get to the back of the heater/ACcontrol assembly to check/repair vacuum hoses and cables etc. A previous reconnaissance mission suggested access from front consol won’t work as not enough room to twist unit or pull out completely? removing dash pad was next thought but radio would be in the way? Or maybe going in from the side some how ? Learning from any previous experience out there would be most welcome! Thanks in advance Kev
  7. Hi all I came across this Riv today at the UK’s biggest classic car trade show - in contention for the Classic American Magazine (UK) car of the year award - one of the last six in the race..I think it’s a 67? I’ll let you know if it won... By the way I’ve met the owner before and asked if he’s a member of the ROA - He’s not , and despite my ‘encouragement’ he still isn’t...I’ll keep trying .. kev
  8. ..i should add that when the mechanic got the pinion flange off he showed it to me and pointed out it was 'grooved' - is that's the right word - and added that therefore the new seal might not work on its own ...recommended the sleeve Admittedly i have no idea how everything goes together back there😀... i'm just taking him on his word... Cheers Kev
  9. nope, didnt check the specs as didnt have any specs myself - just trusted the website as it states its appropriate for a 65 Riv ...
  10. To be fair to him he put on the one i bought, again from good ol' Rock Auto..as per attached....
  11. ...managed to find the attached on RockAuro of all places believe it or not....might as well give it a go..i'll keep you posted.. Thanks for all your responses Kev
  12. Many thanks for getting back to me....4 bolts at the flange...
  13. Hi all It’s a long story but I need a repair sleeve ...I’m dripping oil and a new seal didn’t fix...mechanic showed me the flange ant it has some grooves.... first question is if the sleeves are universal or I need a specific size/thickness? I didn’t think of measuring the flange when it was off the car....now it’s back on would rather leave it there until hopefully final repair.... secondly can I still use a stock rear opinion seal when reassembling or will I need diff size ? lastly if any member has done this can they recommend a supplier? thanks in advance kev
  14. Hi all Swapping out my fuel pump as its leaking oil (a little) and because it looks like the original...so its old..so good idea to nip any problems in the bud.. The instructions for my replacement from Airtex states that the rocker arm pad and the rocker arm cavity should be greased....does anyone actually do this? Any special type of grease or bog standard? I'm curious as my research building up to this hasnt' produced any ref to greasing.... Cheers Kev
  15. I have an original option wood wheel option on my 65...horn bar sits in centre, no mid alignment. All comes apart very easily so yr issue May be evident when you take all apart? In case it wasn’t honking because the ‘contact spring’ - If that’s correct terminology! - has lost its spring ..bought one on eBay .. cheaply...honks good now.. kev
  16. Thanks all - re. telling the Air B'nB owners - I originally discounted this as I thought that it might appear suspicious if i told them some ''packages' were arriving for me! As you prompted me to think again maybe as packages are coming from inside USA it would be OK...wish me luck! Kev (will be NYC)
  17. Hi All I'm visiting New York for a short holiday break in October - I've had the bright idea of buying a few Riv related bits and pieces, getting them delivered to where i'm staying and bringing them home to save on postage/import tax /VAT. But - there is always a but... I'm staying in an Air B'n'B for only 4 days which is a short window to get things delivered - if they are delivered in time i'll no doubt be there anywhere, and don't know how the US deals with missed deliveries - and the wife wont to spend any time chasing the post office! Its a long shot, but any ideas on how I can make this work?! Thanks in advance Kevin
  18. First generation Riv - next generation driver...
  19. Hi Tony I found this link very handy with mine - though i still have a ciuple of patches of rust - where water gathered over the eyars after a rain shower/wash - which wont budge! http://www.buickperformanceclub.com/rfinish.htm Good luck Kev
  20. Hi All 65 Riv - TH400 - i've got a new style 'open' kickdown solenoid which didn't come with a metal or any other gasket - the original existing gasket used with the original solenoid doesnt fit (see pics). Opinions on line vary as to i need a gasket with the new replacement - but im thinking as it has a raised rubber ring then i dont' need one - any opinions? Cheers Kevin
  21. so.....when solenoid activates it briefly 'seals' the above chamber, thus changing fluid pressure etc?.. Cheers Kev
  22. Hi allRe my 65 Riv - TH400Just for my own education...I've attached a couple of pics of my kickdown solenoid/gasket and of the valve body it attaches to within transmission...If i'm correct, when the solenoid is 'activated' it creates what i believe is called 'DET pressure' which acts on the 1 2 valve up in the valve body, thus kicking down?How does the DET pressure get created?!Re the little hole on underside of the solenoid as per first pic - is this closed when solenoid is activated, and resulting vacuum or change of pressure - DET pressure - acts on the 1 2 vale? Or is a component missing and something else happens?Thanks in advanceKevin (London, England)
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