moran75

I managed it, and was pretty straightforward …somewhere in history of the forum there is a discussion and instructions …sure you’ll find it in a search, can’t remember exact details …suffice to say you don’t have to unpick the the stitching or modify the cover itself … good luck! kev

Great pic…looks so much better because they are the right length as well many thanks kev

No pic and I did call them , but as they are ‘special order ‘ nothing to show me…

Hi all re the repro ‘period correct’ date coded spark plug wires offered by CARS…. can anyone post a pic of what they look like? What colour /material/finish… Apart from date code do they look any different to modern alternatives ? Also I believe they are ‘correct’ length - is that true? only ask because i’m not a period correct purist , but like the idea that they may look more interesting than the overly long and plain smooth black versions you get today …. But if they aren’t would rather not pay out quite a bit of money just to find out !😀 Thanks in advance kev

I have a 65 that sags just like yrs …the lower control arm bushings are shot on that side which may account for at least some of the sag, if not all…worth checking as well kev

BJ not exactly real world though?😀

3rd generation GS with allegedly 600hp engine …Not local you you chaps just the USA ..but exchange rate is good at mo 😀 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314167670949?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=CQuWf93kTo2&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=z-_wybDqRVS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=WHATS_APP

Still going strong - as of July anyway. I live overseas (uk) as well - things take a bit longer but if you ordered Jan you def should have received parts by now… if I were you don’t email or contact them via their messaging portal in website - call them directly… kev

I’m sitting a bit lower in exactly same place …been pointed out to me that.my lower control bushing is clearly in need of replacing re that side two inches alot more than me though …but maybe worth a look kev

https://www.carandclassic.com/car/C1119718 for sale in the UK - as we would say over here, price appears to be a bit ‘lumpy’😀 kev

Good news as an update , and in case this thread is stumbled upon in the future.. In a nutshell : 1)after my original late night post, a test light in the morning did light up when connected, but very very faintly…whilst in the car switch didn’t seem to light up at all, hence it’s removal . so the audible beep on multimeter proved continuity, but not ‘enough’ If that’s a technical term😀 2)the metal ‘trigger’ across the top was rusty, not massively. Cleaned with wire wool and contact cleaner. 3) now test light slows bright … and when connected to multi meter at lowers ohm setting (200) switch rates close to zero when pressed so hey presto switch is now good i had erratic operation at idle, which reduced to almost non existent, even with adjusting whilst on car …hence digging deep thanks all kev

Looks to be visually …maybe in market for a replacement 😀

In the photos I had meter set to 200 ohms - and was expecting a near zero reading but got the variable high reading as per pic.. but at setting 2k or higher I did get a near zero reading and when used the ‘beep’ setting on the multimeter (which i since found is maybe best way to test continuity?) I did get the beep so maybe I had multimeter set wrong in the first instance ?…and switch ok? cheers kev

Thanks all Aha…was expecting reading to move from 1 to close to zero? Like when you touch the two probes together? by the way have I set multimeter to correct ohms - 200? when I see set to 2k /20k I do get thr reading of near zero after all?… many thanks for help kev

Hi all its been a long day - can’t think straight ! re attached which is self explanatory …before and after pressing on the switch ….so switch is broke with fluctuation /high continuity reading like that? thanks in advance kev

Hi all re 1965 stock riviera … can anyone tell me correct bolt size for rear shock, top and bottom ? just in case they sheaf off…you never know would like to keep potential replacements original as possible …and to hand before I begin of course thanks in advance kev

Hi all I get the feeling that some owners have had ride height ‘issues’ when replacing rear springs - generally car sitting too high? can anyone offer suggestions of brands that seemed to offer a straight swap maintaining the beloved low stance without issues, straight out of the box ? BTW by way of background the car is stock - one of mine appears to be sagging slightly . I’ve got a pair of shocks already (seem to be functioning ok but obviously old) - will be checking the body mounts as I read that May explain a sag.. no noises, drives great thanks in advance kev

Thanks Ted …very useful indeed

…So looks like difficult element to find will be the throttle assembly bits and pieces? (Circled in diagram)…

Thanks Bill…did you already have have the throttle assembly buts and pieces ? (Circled in diagram) PS I’m in the United Kingdom - what’s significance of HD/Lowes? 😀I’m guessing they are stores ?

Yes, all makes sense . Many thanks. kev

Hi all I inherited my car with a broken beaded chain coming from my cruise control power unit ..you’ll see it hanging down in attached pic. Would any member have a complete one including throttle fitting assembles hanging around unwanted 😀? reckon it will be hard to find but thought I’d ask you chaps first….I believe this option shared with other Buick’s as well?… all the best kev

Hi all - re the attached pic … is this a sealed unit or can it be opened up somehow ? I reckon not… but thought I’d ask as It would be nice to reinstate - current wiring at trans are modern female spade type connectors thanks in advance kev

Hi all Finally got car out this week …so by way of update / happy conclusion please note the following - whilst in no order of importance / relevance / significance have combined to solve an issue , imaginary or real : 1)upon reflection, my method of gathering evidence of a perceived issue was maybe not reliable - IE at 70mph on a motorway just by waiving my hand around in front of dash vents 2) I have revisited the rubber prop on the actuator and saw room for ‘improvement’ 3)testing and evaluating, after point two, in a stationary car showed blower was actually very good 😀 4) and no air coming out of heater vents, an additional check as suggested by Tom so all is intact good - thanks all for input. I’ve also learnt a bit about cowl vents - though I’m surprised that although being open to elements they tend not to get clogged over time? .. that’s a rhetorical musing , no need to comment 😀 all the best kev

Apologies , Forgot to say I will update situation next time I take car out …in the meantime I have tried the blower motor without starting car and it blew really well … so maybe my initial impression taken while driving home on motorway was a tad unscientific and premature 😀 However i will double check all doors and vents as suggested when I get out in car again 1000 thanks