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Everything posted by moran75

  1. Def a 3921S...only checking with Jon re. comparability of the two diff aluminium choke housings he identified..all now ok ...thanks all kev
  2. Oakey dokey...re the 3921s and the superseded part number ...will either fit or will I need to make sure I find the specific part number that I’m replacing? If you see what I mean.... kev
  3. Thanks all for clarifications/advice, much appreciated. kev
  4. Hi all i have a four barrel Carter AFB 3921S - I need to swap out the aluminium choke housing - not the circular plastic part but just the aluminium section that piece screws on to. I have found someone selling a Carter 3503S which I believe was also an original carb for a ‘65 ... is it structurally different from my 3921S or will parts be compatible between the two? cheers kev
  5. Hi Gene cheers...just sent email thanks kev
  6. Hi all i live in UK and want to double check something before I mAke a purchase ...been caught out before... I have a ‘65..with regards rear passenger side fender I need all the stainless steel trim - so that’s the curved wheel well, and two straight strips either side , one to bumper and other to door. I’ve found all three but they are described as being applicable for ‘63-‘65. to double check , did these bits of trim remain unchanged through those years as suggested by seller Or were they in fact Year specific? thanks in advance kev
  7. Hi All I'm researching a now defunct Buick dealer in Baltimore that sold my Riviera new in 1965. Address on the invoice is: Buick - The Motor Sales Company 26 W.Mt Royal Avenue Baltimore 1 (Saratoga 7-3311) . I'm pretty sure that the attached post card promo is the same place...though address on card doesn't quote no.26 - just street names and Saratoga 3311 - whatever that refers to... Would anyone know of a resource/individual who collects details of old buick dealers as i'd really like to find an actual photo - searched all over the web and via various Maryland historical societies but with no luck..what i do know is that site was bought and redeveloped by the Univ of Baltimore. Dealer may have been taken over by Pat Hays Buick before Univ of Baltimore bought the land - but that hasnt helped my search either.... 1000 thanks in advance Kev
  8. Just watched a TV show where a ‘69 Corvette with a 350 was dyno tested at 145 HP...the points were then changed to an electronic set up and the new test showed 190 HP..that’s a huge improvement.. I know the supposed advantages to reliability - don’t want to open that debate again or what’s best make to use...but is that kind of HP improvement really achievable?? Sounds too good to be true... kev
  9. ...with transmission still in as well? For a ‘65 Riv with a 401 ...is it a two piece seal ?
  10. Def from inside the trans? I had very similar sounding noise from that general area....in my case I’d describe it as a clicking, and like you only under acceleration/load...but in my case not in Park.....anyway, did same test as you and turned out to be coming from the very front UV joint on prop shaft...where it connects to trans...so maybe could be mistaken as coming from the trans itself? the other tell take sign was rust coloured dust around the UV joint. Maybe a long shot but if this does turn about your issue be careful where you get replacement UV joints from...a bit kryptic I know but haven’t got time to put into writing at the mo😀 Kev
  11. ...update #2...after re-examining the balance I decided very quickly that I would not remove grille after all😀...immediately obvious that the valance isn’t coming out easy! At least I now know how the front end connects together... Kev
  12. as an update, if anyone searches this subject and finds this post... looking at a pic of a front valance on ebay it looks like their are seven 'dimples' which suggests that the grill has seven matching external mounting points which sit in these dimples...the studs screw up into the grill mounting points....so even with studs removed the valance needs to be dropped a bit - or completely...to allow the grille to be pulled out... i think...we'll see how i get on Kev
  13. Hi all I’m tryng to get my grille out for cleaning etc. I’ve removed the three bolt across the top and all 7 studs across the bottom...grille wobbles but doesn’t seem to want to come out....reluctant to force it ....am I missing something? Or does it need a bit of ‘help’? I’ve even removed two additional bolts, one at either end of underside just past last stud... Past posts suggest maybe the ‘valance’ piece just behind bumper has to be moved but others say grille should just be pulled out with removal of studs... thanks in advance kev
  14. aha - had already seen a brand new GF98 listed elsewhere but for all the listings a 1965 Riviera wasn't included in the suitable applications drop down list..up to this point have been looking for a GF423...but OPGI shows a 98 is OK... BTW would you agree that its not a good idea to use a NOS filter? Kev
  15. Hi All I've seen a couple of NOS AC fuel filters for sale - but my instinct suggests to avoid using as they must have a (expired) shelf life? But if i want anything except those horrible (and too small) shiny things is there an alternative that looks like what in my minds eye fuel filters looked like back in the day? The guys who win best of class at shows must have something that looks original from somewhere? Checked CARS and similar but only see the usual offerings... Many thanks Kev
  16. Hi all can anyone advise correct colour of the bendix cap? I’ve had a look at some pics on the group and I see some are black..but some are grey/metallic ... thanks in advance .. kev
  17. Hi all re my 65 Riv , A/C, 401ci. ive checked my manual re correct routing of return fuel line and all seemed straightforward. However on the car itself I can’t see any clips/strap as shown in manual, IE after routing line under A/C compressor. BTW don’t know if it’s an A/C modified car (as noted as a possibility on diagram) so I don’t know if its a strap or clip that I should be looking for. Either way unless I’m blind can’t see either. which is surprising as absolutely everything else on the car is still as per manual - very original. can anyone load a pic of what I should be looking for? thanks in advance kev
  18. special order paint , i was led to believe?... Kev
  19. I believe the asterisk denotes special order paint...i have the same. Well almost, in my case asterisk is preceded by SCO-1091 which i believe also evidences special order paint?...anyway attached a pic. ' Actual colour used for the special order paint isn't recorded on the plate like a standard colour....in my case i'm lucky in that i have a copy of the invoice which does show actual colour... Mine is a 1965 - judging by statistics found on owners website there were less than 100 special order paint cars that year though individual colour breakdowns were not recorded back in the day. I guess it was a very rare option in 1964 as well... BTW I've heard anecdotally that special order paints tended to be cadillac colours - mine is. Kev
  20. Yep ...sure did. On a positive note it Still looked better than what it replaced 😀 Tiny bit frustrating though... so turned the base of the side cardboard outwards instead of inwards, if you see what mean.the cardboard ‘foot’ covered the shortfall...rather that than just bare metal cheers kev
  21. I have the same thing re squeak and also only under acceleration....and slight but noticeable vibration briefly at 30mph - ish...I’m pretty sure squeak is coming from worn out single ujoint where prop shaft joins transmission yoke...if I turn rear wheels by hand then cv joint clicks as it rotates. Rear Wheel bearings seem Ok. Also a lot of rust coloured dust which I believe is symptom of failing CV joint. anyway I going to have my theory tested this week and if correct the single ujoint replaced ( I have a ‘65) and have also purchased a new centre bearing and support bracket just in case it turns out to be shot when prop shaft is out. re the new parts....from past bad experience I’ve bypassed ‘cheap’ places like RockAuto and in this case I have gone straight to Classicbuicks.com . I live in UK and don’t want (again) to waste time/money going back and forth with non-buick specialists... I have also noted other posts re correct balancing of a prop shaft for a 65 - apparently quite unique - so will be making sure my garage is aware of that. Will be giving them the manual! is a ‘67 ‘unique’ as well? Don’t know - but all info is in the manual somewhere. The consensus is don’t assume your local shop knows this info..... ill keep you posted if all this cures my squeak.... probably barking up wrong tree and it’s the rear wheel bearings😀 kev
  22. Coincidentally I've just had the rear parcel shelf out of my 65...and a car that appears to be very original/un-molested. I also have that thin vinyl trim folded over the back edge of the shelf, full length where it meets the window. So maybe that is original. But mine isn't padded..I'd describe it as some kind of moulded board/plastic composite that 'looks' a bit like vinyl - has a slight vinyl texture - from a distance. Maybe melted on/bonded after 55 years! But it hasn't been wrapped in vinyl and padded, like the dash is. Def not padded. And curves right around snug with the speaker. All i did is spray it with black plastic spray paint as it was rough in places and faded/patchy. Cheers Kev
  23. in terms of the radio I looked into this and found it bit expensive and also pain to get radio out etc...especially for the amount of time i actually spent in the car...so i bought a bluetooth wireless speaker called an Oontz Angle 3XL and put it on parcel shelf, or back seat or whereever....sort of looks the part and is loud.....and run it from my mobile phone...best of both worlds... Cheers Kev
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