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Everything posted by moran75

  1. Hi All Just for my own education re. kickdown solenoid on my 65 Riv TH400... I know its activation causes downshift at speeds below 70mph...but how is this actually activated? I've attached two pics ..the original style solenoid covers an 'empty' hole but ....physically doesn't touch it because of the gasket...in my ignorance i was expecting some kind of plunger to shoot out and interrupt movement of the ATF, but there is only a small hole that also isnt quite centered in the opening in the gasket..... So what happens when it clicks to make the downshift happen? An (educated?) guess by me - the activation of the solenoid energises the metal gasket which in turn transfers the 12V to the body of the transmission ,,,and somewhere down the line changes route of ATF... Enlightenment very welcome... Many thanks Kevin
  2. On mine it’s passenger side, almost at very front , hanging from the top...it hangs down , but not very far ....so if you don’t look up you’ll miss it! cheers Kev
  3. used my initiative - wait for it, wait for it - took the pan off and had a look! all questions answered both solenoids clicking, so just the two prong connector to replace (spinning and leaking) cheers kev
  4. Indeed...but as per my original question will I need to remove valve body to get to the detent solenoid and if there is a second solenoid where is it? maybe in the torque converter itself?... thanks kev
  5. I’m thinking more of what happens on the inside of the pan - the solenoid. Does that ‘detent’ solenoid handle both switch pitch and kick down functions? Or is there a second solenoid somewhere inside transmission... Cheers kev
  6. Hi all I need to change my switch pitch/kick down connector terminal at the transmission...its spinning...and potentially the solenoid inside... RE the solenoid - manual suggests i need to remove control valve body assembly/gov pipes (pg 5-109) before removing what's referred to as 'detent' solenoid...but rae these instructions refrring to a full tear down? Will it be possible to remove and replace solenoid without removing the valve body? Also...manual refers to an 'electrical detent solenoid (kick down) AND stator solenoid (switch pitch)' - is there an additional solenoid for the switch pitch somewhere? or does the one 'detent' solenoid control both functions? I think it does both - but thought i'd check... Thanks in advance Kevin
  7. I had almost exact issue on my 65 - only diff was I did not have the black smoke ..initial acceleration ‘lumpy’... Upon various testing my solutuon was two things - new accelerator pump (from Mikes carbs ) and new vacuum advance (that’s the thing plugged into distributor) cheers Kev
  8. I’ve got 3.23 as well...stamped on base of diff housing...workshop manual suggest 3.07 was standard...I think , anyway cheers kev
  9. thanks all - very interesting info Kev
  10. Wanted - Large Buick sign for my garage nothing super rare , neon, double sided porcelain etc just large - maybe cardboard, plastic etc - ideally 1960s all the best Kev 1
  11. Amended...i was concentrating so much on spelling 'molecularly' properly i ignored everything else😀 Anyway, any views on the question? PS - please tell me i spelt 'molecularly' properly and it is an actual word?!😱
  12. Sounds interesting - yep, if you could measure and maybe send a pic that would be great. Kev
  13. Ta very much - I'll have a look
  14. Hopefully all this info has been useful?
  15. Wanted - Large Buick sign for my garage nothing super rare , neon, double sided porcelain etc just large - maybe cardboard, plastic etc - ideally 1960s if you have anything please message me directly all the best Kev
  16. Wanted - Large Buick sign for my garage nothing super rare , neon, double sided porcelain etc just large - maybe cardboard, plastic etc - ideally 1960s all the best Kev
  17. Wanted - Large Buick sign for my garage nothing super rare , neon, double sided porcelain etc just large - maybe cardboard, plastic etc - ideally 1960s all the best Kev
  18. Hi all moving onto my A/C ..thinking of it anyway, don’t really need it in UK and I have a thing about driving with windows open - car just looks even better.. anyway a trusted engineer has flagged at least one potential issue he might be unable to solve.. system is currently empty i've attached a pic of a jubilee clip/ring clamp at the muffler...he was thinking that as the new refrigerant R134a is molecularly smaller it might deep out here...kind of a weak point?? anyway , the question is if any members have converted to R134a on an original otherwise functioning A/C system and if they encountered any such issues - or other issues - caused by the new fangled refrigerant? all the best kev
  19. Addition to things I would do: ...4) consult the manual
  20. note im not an expert, and whatever knowledge i have has been gained from problems ive personally encountered..anything else then its educated guess! so with that in mind... when checking battery - engine off - was engine cold? best to check morning after a drive, not straight after shtting down engine... i'm assuming all wiring looks good at regulator, and back of alt - and no obvious whining/noise from the alt/belts/reg if multimeter set on 20V and being used correctly then i would suggest the battery is over charged, and unless you had A/C on and maybe other electrical items then maybe its overcharging when running as well?? Better minds my comment on that last bit... would overcharging make light come on? dont know.... i believe an over charged battery is not good ... my readings previously advised are what you should be seeing in an ideal world when cold mornig after a drive and then at idle - in my opinion any way.. so what to do.. if it was me - and remember i'm don't claim to be an expert on anything - if i was confident battery was overcharging and all visible/audible aspects of the alt/charging system looked OK I would: 1) post a new question on subject of overcharging and role of regulator especially - if anything just for my own education. This post is also getting old now so engagement by other members may have hit its peak 2) google the subject - and maybe the exact role of the regulator in the system other than the obvious - is it regulating voltage to the battery or the alternator or both ways?! 2) dependant on what response i receive - if any! - I'd maybe start by buying a new regulator (cheaper and easy to swap) - stick it on see what happens! All an opinion - if in doubt bring to an auto electrician .... Kev PS - what started me on this road was that the alt i inherited with the car started to make noises from the pulley. Belts were new. Car had only been brought back to life recently from 10 years of inactivity - removal and inspection showed alt was original to the car, generally knackered, and fundamentally bearings were dry as a bone. Being in the UK , although there were people who def had the knowledge to diagnose the problem , replacement parts were not available. I didnt want to pay for sending it over to the USA to be rebuilt and shipped back again. Would also take too much time. Replacements could be found over here but not 'like for like' - for example, the alt would have an internal regulator and would require wiring shennanigans etc etc. cost would have been $150. So i put my original in a box and bought a high amp 'like for like' alt from a US vendor on ebay - 'chargersautoelectric'. USD 130 plus in my case intl shipping /import tax total $200.Came with required replacement ugraded regulator as well. Personally as of today I'm very happy with it and the vendors service. Straight swap for both - no wiring tweaks - car is running quieter and all seems very good indeed. Comparing it to the original alt the position of the wiring connectors on back case were in a slightly diff position in relation to the front case/fan - if you see what i mean - and although i understand you can easily separate the front/back case and get this 'clocked' i made it work by adjusting the wiring loom slightly so wires would reach. Won't win a concourse competition, but if i ever i go down that road then ill dig out the original, date coded alt from the box! Only telling you this if you ever find yr self in a similar situation and just need an alt/reg without any fuss, don't have a numbers matching alt you desperately want to keep with the car etc etc. But being in the US of A you're probably tripping over alternators on yr front door step!
  21. It was mostly on but did go out every now and again....For example I opened up on the motorway and it went out..coincidence maybe, I don’t know....I was pretty confident it wasn’t an issue with the alt charging system though as I had been testing with the multi meter, so didn’t pay much attn to it after that...
  22. Further to my earlier message my light has now gone out after cleaning and straightening the blue wire female connection at the regulator. as mentioned it’s worth checking this first as it may prevent you having to retention belts or repacking alternator , which if you have A/C like me is akin to giving birth! in my case , after replacing alt/reg/belts and still getting the light I checked voltage of battery engine off - 12.8v and with engine running - 14v. To me that indicated battery was good and alternator was charging. That directed me to the wiring as mentioned and the easy fix rather than jumping back to the alt/belts etc. BTW I used a simple multimeter for checking battery/alt performance. re tension of belts ...yes there’s load of info out there and I admittedly thought too much about it! Mine twist no further than 90 degrees and if you press down on middle off all three in my case they move about 3/4” maybe. They just instinctively ‘feel’ right. Famous last words ! But battery is charging, the whining pulley is cured so I’m not tinkering any more... kev
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