moran75

Hi all just thinking - has anyone replaced the fuel line at tank , the rubber one that then joins to metal pipe , WITH OUT dropping tank? Is it possible ? im getting new exhaust at weekend so that won’t be in the way … thanks in advance kev

….as an update to anyone searching out there and stumbling on this thread…. yep, as per Tom the guide-Matic had to come off. It was clearly catching somewhere … in my case , I had removed the plate above the radio so as to give me more purchase on pulling pad out towards back of the car….i couldn’t see what was going on with guidematic phototube because of dash padding and I decided removing radio wouldn’t gtee a better view…. So in my case, right below the phototube was my switch for cruise control …removing that I could see up underneath dash and could see the two retaining hex bolts for guide-matic were indeed catching on dash frame… so out came glove box lining to locate guidematic amplifier - easily pulled out wire now, even with wheel tilted full down it seemed to me that magnet of speaker was a bit of a hindrance in removing dash pad didnt want to jiggle pad around and risk damage , and as one of reasons for all this was to fit new speaker, and because I had already removed that plate above radio, I could easily unscrew speaker in situ. with that released, the dash pad came out of car real easy even with me on my own and no spare set of hands 😀 one last thing - even with dash out , easiest way to get to lower bulbs on instrument panel was through access panels below steering wheel - so if that’s all you need to do, don’t remove the dash pad 😀 anyway, LEDs now in (superbrightleds.com - use their car search option) as are fab new ‘like for like’ speakers from smelectrotech.com. Wanted to keep everything stock as per radio - original speakers were pretty good but these new ones are straight swaps and maximise capabilities or original radio without needing to cut / re-wire/ worry about ohm ratings etc etc . Even with original speakers I was surprised how good the sound was, even after all these years . Loud with great base and treble control , and mixing between the two speakers. So with the replacement speakers even better. can also transmit audio from my phone using one of them ‘dongles’ plugged into cigarette lighter - the things that convert blue tooth to FM signal , which you just tune into with radio. anyway , over and out ! Kev

Thanks Tom …So I somehow remove eye first ?….

Hi all Quick question….im removing my dash pad - will it come off with eye attached ( then disconnect wire from underneath like the speaker ) or somehow remove eye first ? I think remove pad with it still on - but best to check 😀 thanks in advance kev

great - ill send you a PM

Hi all I believe the 65 originally had an orange kick down - assuming this to be true (were some originally black as well?) - has anyone got a spare they would like to sell? would post on buick buy / sell but maybe this is a particular riviera thing? I live in UK but address would be internal in USA.. Cheers Kev

1000 thanks all moral is - if its not broke, dont fix it!

thanks chaps..... the reasons for using the gauge - other than learning how to use a new tool - is because i have a very slight flutter in RPM's at idle. only i notice it because im behind the wheel all the time, if you were a passenger you wouldn't notice it at all. Performance seems good to me - i just sense it at stop light....could be over thinking thing - I'm always listening out for 'new' noises! using a rather fiddly induction type RPM meter (the one with a clamp type thing that goes around HT wire 1) i get a reading that moves approx between 550 to 555. I kmow it could be a) normal /neglible /forgettable and / or b) caused by a multitude of possible things, not just vacuum leaks...i have a question about my heat riser but maybe ill leave that for now 😀 anyway, would i be right in saying that a 'noticeable' miss would result in a bigger drop/flutter in RPM's? All the best Kev another reason for asking is

Hi all Re 1965 Riv, 401ci, all stock with original carter AFB. my debut vacuum gauge reading - it looks nice and steady at 18 but then i notice a very slight flicker...but maybe i'm over analysing ? so......In the wide world of vacuum reading interpretations - is it steady enough or should it be DEAD still? I would upload a video but i cant seem to be able to.... Thanks in advance Kev

Hi Eric i had same button missing on same seat and managed to get replacement on without major surgery. May well work in your case as well. I used what they call in UK a ‘tufting’ needle. It’s a way furniture reupholsters use to sew buttons on without having to completely open up a piece of furniture. there are videos on YouTube of people demonstrating it. it took a couple of efforts but so far button hasn’t fallen off , and though not quite as tight as the others you wouldn’t notice. And of course much better than having no button. also be careful that needle doesn’t go all way through and out the back!😀 cheers kev

Original points…..judging by all comments there can be big differences then 😀 I’ll do my research….1000 thanks all kev

Hi all I'm looking to buy an ignition coil for my 65 and see rock auto has grand total of 7 'standard replacements' ranging from measly £8.47 to a whopping £32.81 Is there such a variation in spec to explain diff prices for 'standard replacements' ? Do you really get a better product for £32.81....thought an ignition coil was an ignition coil, if you see what i mean I would check with CARS but their website leave a lot to be desired and i can no longer access catalogue either 😕 Thanks in advance Kev

As an update I’ve just fitted set of Lectric Ltd wires - date coded but I was interested in the fit/length…must say very happy - no more spaghetti under the hood - happy days 😀

....just PM'd you re. purchasing rubber bushings...

check out the link i provided to 'Old German' up above - the link has some pics of both bushings...

...took this pic today from underside the mechanical weights/springs ...if i'm not mistaken you can see the mechanical bushing is still on in my case, so at least you can see it in situ.... if you wriggle finger underneath you can feel it as well, just about ....

this previous discussion is very useful - and if you scan down/through you will see a pic of each bushing :

What year? Tried taking off my 65 grill but after taking off all bolts along bottom it wasn’t going to come off without a lot of ‘mucking about’ with wings /fenders - wasn’t in any way going to be an easy job. So have up! if anyone can contradict me please do so, as I’d love to get it off ‘hastle free’ to polish 😀

re question 2....any secret method or just a case of dexterous finger work? to be honest i have no idea yet if its dropped off - but if it has, do you still have them to sell?...

.....is there such a thing as a stupid question?

Aha …did have a gold triangle tag on it but it broke off - and was indeed blank. Put blankness down to some kind of aftermarket thing / mistake - maybe I’ll mend it and put back 😀

Hi all Does anyone know a source for reproduction gold triangular ID tags for a Carter AFB… seems to be a few on eBay but not for for mine or anyone who makes them to order ? or just a blank one even… searching web has been unproductive! thanks in advance kev

Hi all i was changing my distributor rotor today and caught sight of an incongruous looking screw attaching the vacuum advance - looked out of place , to me at least. Has a kind of a dome top to it. See attached pic…car running good with no obvious problems.. is screw original ? If not, does it matter? if it’s not, and does matter, can anyone send technical name / spec or event sell me one?😀 thanks in advance kev

Well, I don’t know what specs you guys ‘fail’ on, but I wish we got some of your tyres … I live in UK and we have a phenomenon here called ‘blooming’ on whitewalls - horrible brown discolouration which is a real PIA to clean , never 100% well, and it just comes back … check out this from one of our premier vintage /classsic tyre sellers website: https://www.northhantstyres.com/faqs-files/whitewall-maintenance.php#:~:text=Tyre Blooming.,-Tyre rubber compounds&text=Once anti-ozonant reaches the,look is 'tyre blooming'. maybe only associated with Cheaper tyres made in Europe , who knows 😀 but next time I’ll get redlines (are they immune?) or bring back a set of 5 in my luggage next time I’m over your way… out of interest , as looks like this issue hasn’t been mentioned in this thread ( except a ref to a few brown spots here and here ), is ‘blooming’ an issue in the US at all? cheers kev

BTW I’m by no means an expert, and I’m sure they will contribute …but in meantime … Do you mean a) drops off immediately after starting car, choke plate uncovers primaries and car stalls immediately? Or b) seems/appears to come off cam quicker than it should , and car eventually stalls? If it’s a) maybe there’s something wrong with your choke coil as it’s that tension which keeps choke plate in position and over time relaxes and let’s cam progressively drop off high idle ? if b) I had that happen and I noticed my dash pot wasn’t engaging when idle cam came off high idle, and therefore put the issue down to some kind vacuum issue which dashpot prevents..:.so I adjusted dashpot position and all ok now that I’m writing maybe my problem was simply an idle speed issue ? Too low when high idle cam came off , hence stalling? Anyway, adjusting dashpot ‘worked’ 😀 Have you got a manual? when I got my 65 it had been sitting for years and choke didn’t work at all etc etc…and I was a novice to mechanics …I found this forum a great help but I also had the manual which explained the mysterious workings of a Carter AFB ….and between the two got it sorted…. good luck kev (London, England )