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You might find some help over here: http://oldihc.org/phpBB3/index.php Look on the kick panels inside the cab, and on the edge of the driver's door, and on the cowl under the hood. One of these locations might yield a plate that will tell you more about the truck. I think its 1-1/2 Ton. My dad once had an L-160 that was supposedly a 2 ton. The L and R series are very similar. Your frame rails look slightly lighter, and so do your tires. Tires on the L-160 were 8.25-20 IIRC.

Greetings from another 36 Pontiac owner. There is a pressure cap? Try loosening it to the first click and see if if it does better. If it does, there is probably combustion pressure getting into the cooling system. There are CO test kits (they have a plastic thing that goes in the radiator neck, and some blue liquid that turns yellow in the presence of CO) that could be used to confirm. In my area, Oreilly have these in their rental program. I used one of those infra-red thermometer guns to check to see if my water tube was ok. There was no huge difference in temperature between the front and rear, so I guess it is.

Thats not how it works on these. The radiator is crossflow. There is a petcock so you can see if it is full enough..

^^^THIS!!! This is why you should NEVER buy one of those over the counter "exchange" rebuilds, period, and if you do, you should NEVER turn in an original carb for a core. Carbking didn't even mention that you often find bent or broken critical parts inside when you tear them down. Or, that they sandblast the parts, removing the coating that seals up any porosity that might occur in the castings. Carbs that have been through this process are generally not rebuildable as things have been drilled that cannot easily be put back even if you KNOW what size all the little holes are supposed to be, and generally you do not know. There are a lot of calibrated orifices in something like a Quadrajet! When the dust settles, it leaves the owner or the technician combing junkyards for a better core to rebuild. Meanwhile, the original carburetor is no longer around, having been sent in for a core. Back when there were professional carb shops everywhere, they would not even attempt to rebuild something that had been through the "remanufacturing" process, and with good reason. When I was young and stubborn, I wasted a lot of time trying to do exactly that. I didn't have much success. As for the tags, sometimes they just break off, or someone doesn't bother to put it back on when they put in a carb kit. That is a much easier situation to deal with. Sometimes the carb can be identified by other features, or if it it the original one, the make, model, and year can suffice. It still may leave you guessing on a setting or two.

1913 Inter-State?

It is not so common now to ban hotlinking. The issue is that the picture is on another website, and their bandwidth is used to host it, but the people who see the picture never visit their website. Maybe they lose advertising money, or maybe they just don't want to pay bandwidth for some other site. It is less likely that some site like the AACA would make a noticeable difference, but a picture could be hotlinked to some a site that a huge segment of the population sees. The administrator of the site with the picture could get an unexpected bill for a whole bunch of bandwidth, or he might exceed his monthly limit, and his site might go down. The server does not know the difference, and if the administrator has configured it to disable hotlinking, it probably disables it for all other sites. Disabling hotlinking was more common a few years ago than it is now. Downloading a copy of a picture and posting it elsewhere solves the bandwidth problem. That is called "rehosting". There can be and often are copyright issues. IMHO today rehosting is more likely to cause ire than hotlinking. YMMV.

Hi, Welcome to the forum! We are here, there just aren't that many of us. Why are you thinking of opening the engine? Is it doing something wrong? Early Times Chapter is a good club for these cars. Unfortunately most of their website is not working right now, usually there is a lot of useful information there. http://www.earlytimeschapter.org/About_ETC.html There's a get together planned in Bardstown, Kentucky, USA this September. Here is my 1936 Master Six that gets driven regularly:

Yep, up on the floor board, underneath the parking brake pedal, next to the kick panel, right where you can hit it with your left toe. 68 is indeed the same as 67.

And not to be confused with a Chevrolet 307 either (though it was out of production by that time).. Joe has it right. As I recall the Olds 307 engine said 307 right on the smog sticker, in addition to 5.0 liters, no matter what it was in. The public may have been confused, but those of us working on them were not.

Most battery chargers are unfiltered, meaning the power is not clean enough DC to use unless a battery is connected. Try a 12v battery.

Most makes did not stamp the same number in multiple places on the car in the early 30s. Maybe Oldsmobile did, but that was unusual. I have never heard of it on a 30s Pontiac. A typical car had an engine number, a frame number, and maybe a body number. Which number or numbers got used on the title or registration varied by state in the US. It was fairly common for cars to be titled to the engine number.

If you use hobby store stuff, be sure to get real corks, and not ground up cork glued together with rubber (like gasket material). I have seen both types. The buoyancy is probably different.

The "Bob's" ones are sealed. I don't know what with.

It only takes a tiny (REALLY tiny) vacuum leak to screw up fuel distribution. However, in the 30s a lot of cars were jetted (for various reasons) way too rich. I guess you could get away with it. Meanwhile, the quite a few of electrical systems of the day weren't really good enough to carry much in the way of accessories. Maybe it made sense. You usually see vacuum taps (for wipers or whatever) way at one end of the manifold. That sounds like the worst possible place to me. Anything that is known to leak should be leaking where it will mix with the incoming air/fuel, probably right under the idle jet.

Bob's Automobilia has new floats like those floats in the picture. I wasn't ready to believe that cork could lose it's buoyancy. I sunk the original floats in ethanol-laced gas for a few days and no change. So, I put them back in. Worked fine for a few months. I think they sunk. I have not pulled the unit yet to verify that, but if I were you, I would replace them. No nitrophyl for me. They use that stuff in carburetors, and when it gets old, it sinks. I don't know if it is any better or worse than cork, but I'll take my chances with cork.

It either works or it doesn't! As you mentioned it often doesn't, thats why I asked the question. Digital meters don't work at all on my 36 Pontiac. The good ones (Fluke, Tektronix) just lock up. Analog VOMs work fine, but generally don't have the resolution you need to set up a voltage regulator. Not everyone has an Allen or Sun generator test set laying around..... I am currently building an analog meter just for this purpose.

Carl, the cylinder I sent out and had sleeved LAST YEAR (or was it 2 years?), and looked new at the time, looks like yours now.... That white thing must be a vacuum check valve.

Hydroboost and Hydravac are 2 different things, but often get confused. Hydroboost gets its boost from the power steering pump hydraulically. Hydravac is a remote mounted brake booster that goes back to at least the 40s and maybe the 30s. It is powered by vacuum. The one in the pictures might or might not be a Hydravac, but if it isn't, it is still the same sort of system, a remote mounted booster powered by vacuum. Similar things are used, for instance, on pre-1970 Alfa Romeos, 1971-72 Honda AN600/AZ600 cars, and probably a bunch of others. Not all are called Hydravac, but they all do about the same thing. I cannot imagine an alternate universe where changing the master cylinder is going to fix this. It is good that you have one handy though. It might not live through the bleeding process. I suspect either the lack of vacuum, or the booster. Yes, as Frank says, the cylinders might just be stuck.

Looks like a simple remote booster. IMO if you have a pedal. it ain't the master cylinder. I wouldn't be in a mad rush to replace it, but on the other hand, it might not survive bleeding. How sure are you that the booster has vacuum on it?

I vote 1937 [

Me too, except make it a 66 Commander with a V8, stick, and overdrive. 2nd choice would be a 58 or 59 Lark VIII, also with overdrive. I think the best looking front end is the 61 single headlight version. It's too bad they never used that with the 58-59 roofline. The 58-59 would have a real Studebaker V8, so there's that, but the 66 Commander is sort of unfinished business for me. I had one years ago (a six) and due to unforeseen circumstances, was not able to restore it. I wouldn't put much stock in Consumer Reports. When I was a tech their automotive picks were the source of endless laughter at work. It really made it hard for me to take them seriously about anything else. Maybe they were better in the 50s or 60s, but I am skeptical. I drove a 63 lark V8 to work for a while. It was reliable enough. It never had to be towed.

Somebody probably bolted the 455 to the transmission that was already in the car.

That isn't quite as crazy as it sounds. The whole point is to light up whats down low without lighting up the fog in front of you. That said, I have never heard of it either. I may have done it at some point, with lights controlled only by their own switch, but having the car shut them off on low beam is news to me. Having the car shut them off only on high beam is what I would expect. Maybe pontiac1953 knows if thats normal operation for a factory installation? One more thought, most older cars have a circuit breaker for the headlights. If you connected 2 more big bright bulbs to the low beam circuit, it would almost certainly overload the circuit breaker. A relay would then be required, as shown in Matt Harwood's post. Relays weren't terribly reliable back then, and there is the chance that the relay would stick, running your battery dead. For instance, the points can burn and stick, or a little frost can get inside, and they wont shut off in the bitter cold. I was still regularly having trouble like this when I was first messing around with aftermarket lighting in the early 80s. Relays that actually work are fairly common now. The advantage is that shutting the headlights off kills the foglights too, so you don't forget and leave them on.

Plot twist: It already has one.

Do you have any suggestion on a make and model of switch? Something you have known to work in a 6v system for several years?