Bloo

I think how to get rid of it afterward is a question for edinmass, as he has done a bunch of cars. Baking soda is most likely not the answer because as far as I know Evaporust is not acid. It is sticky like sugar, and although nobody seems to know what is in it, it is likely a closer relative of molasses than acid-based rust removers.

In addition to the source Mark Shaw posted, there is: Clean Sweep / Melissa Klein 3395 NW Elm Ave Redmond, OR 97756 541-410-5671 cleansweepwipers@gmail.com Those are the only 2 I am aware of. Hope you can find what you need.

You really should get a manual! It has been a lifesaver for me. My manual is too old to help with your 239. Going from memory, I think the spec is .013 cold, .011 hot. You will probably get more authoritative answers from others here. There are several owners of newer flatheads who have been doing engine work lately.

Jon (Carbking) would probably know. I'll bet he would tell you. I don't believe he sells parts without a kit, but knowing the mesh size would probably be enough to acquire some. You might call him during his scheduled phone hours and ask. If you're lucky he might even show up in this thread. The size also wouldn't be that critical. It is just there to keep dirt out of the choke pulloff piston and the engine. Here are some pictures of mine:

Yes, a fine mesh screen. My 1936 Carter W-1 has it, and if I remember correctly a new one came in the carb kit. My old one was wadded up and falling apart from rot. The air being drawn through the choke stove up the little tube and into the choke housing is unfiltered air, thus the screen. I think McMaster Carr has fine mesh screen, but I wouldn't know exactly what it was. I can say that it looked exactly like the fine mesh screen used in my fuel pump, and often used in sediment bowls on other cars. The piece of screen is formed in sort of a curve and goes in the slot, and the edge is folded over at 90 degrees toward the gasket. In that way it completely separates the fitting from the rest of the housing. If no source turns up soon, I'll go take my choke apart and take a picture. Let me know.

The zero compression was most likely sticking valves. It sounds like you have them all moving now. How long did it sit? Start spraying your heat riser with penetrating oil at both ends of the shaft. Spray on a little more every day Above all, don't try to force it. Any hot/cold cycles from running the engine will help loosen it. after several days of oil, if still stuck, you could try tapping very lightly on the end of the shaft with a brass hammer. Not in the direction of rotation, but right on one end and then the other, taking advanatge of any endplay the shaft might have. Put more oil on. Try again in a day. Don't overdo the tapping and mushroom the shaft. You are just trying to send a little shock wave through the rust. Actual movement could come a day or 2 later. Mopar (Chrysler) 4318039AC "Rust Penetrant" is real heat riser solvent just like the old days, and is about the most effective penetrating oil you can get. It works even better if what you are spraying it on gets hot/cold inbetween sprayings (like a heat riser does on a car that gets driven every day). Now that you have compression in all cylinders, If you can get it running and drive it the blowby and compression numbers will probably improve over time. I would not give up on the engine yet. There is a good chance it will bounce back. P.S. Bad gas will make your valves stick Is it running on nice fresh gas?

Why are there three of them? Where do they mount?

You should by all means do the compression and leakdown tests. Post your results. How long has it been since the car was driven regularly? If it is a long time, Don't get too hung up on the test results unless they are really horrible. Pontiac flatheads have a piece of sheetmetal tubing inside the intake manifold. The hole under the carburetor flange is the inside of the tubing, and there is exhaust on the outside. When that tubing rusts through, exhaust gets in the intake and it makes the engine run horrible. At some point you might want to take the carburetor off and look down the hole. There is also a heat riser on the manifold. You should fix it if it doesn't work. The weight falls toward the block when the engine gets hot. That is the "open" position. It really should work to make the car run right, but above all you do not want it stuck closed. But do your compression and leakdown first. That is the best place to start.

But how on earth did you get it tight? It looks like you would have to clamp either the pinion or the spline, neither of which sounds like a good idea. That nut has a bunch of fine threads and looks like it should be really tight. The rivet i meant is the one locking the driveshaft to the pinion spline.

What did you use for a rivet and how did you tighten the big staking nut? I am at this point in the process right now.

WOW! Well if that is the case, it sounds like natural is the way to go. It sure does look good.

Buick35: Keep us posted. I use rain-x too and I love it. I also dislike windshield wipers because they scrape up the glass, nevertheless sooner or later you might get caught in a downpour or get splattered with mud from a passing semi truck or something. The one moment you need them you REALLY need them. As for the clock, if it is a "Borg" electric clock or something similar I wouldn't bother. They are tons of frustration, and even when working right they are a small electrical load that drains the battery flat when the car sits for too long. Allowing this to happen can also screw up the clock, or at least stick it's points. If the clock is a wind-up, I would try to get it fixed.

Whats wrong with the arm? That style tapered spline appeared in the mid 30s on GM and Ford, so various versions and lengths are available from the early Ford vendors, possibly Bobs Automobilia (Buick), California Pontiac Restoration, The Filling Station (Chevrolet) and probably others. The MoPar vendors don't have this stuff? The blade appears to be the 1930s type that attaches loosely with a hook, and the blade flops over each time the direction reverses. Alternatively you may also be able to get arms that take a later style blade attachment "spoon" that is also a hook, but wide and flat, and on the end of the arm instead of the blade. The available blade lengths will be a little different though. If the correct length of arm is not available (happened to me), and you are using the 1930s hook style, carefully pry the hook receiver off the end of the blade, shorten it, and crimp it back on. The wiper blade itself is probably standard.

Well, if there's nothing wrong with the rotor or the carbon button in the distributor cap, I suppose the wires are just shot. I just brought it up because usually when wires fail that way (arcing out the side), there is some other root cause, like either the insulation was burned from heat, damaged from oil, or the voltage was unexpectedly high.

I doubt you will find anything as granular as tear down steps for the whole car. You should start by getting a factory shop manual. I have not seen reprints for Edsel, but generally most shop manual reprints for most cars have lousy unusable photos. If the price difference isn't too severe, an original manual is probably worth spending some extra money. Edsel engines were Ford six cylinders, Ford "Y-Block", Ford "FE" series V8s and Lincoln-Mercury "MEL" series V8s. Edsel versions in some (or maybe all) cases had slightly different engine displacements than other Ford Motor Company divisions. On Ford products of that era, the engine was often painted one color (usually black), and the valve covers and air cleaner another color. The color of the valve covers and air cleaner told you which engine it was. A factory shop manual should have all this, and some information about decoding numbers too. Engines get replaced or repainted over the years, so the numbers might be the only way. If the engine is not original you might have to post the numbers in some Ford forums to figure it out.

I wrestle with this as well. I have a 1913 Studebaker 25 that needs 2 wheels rebuilt. I have not yet been able to figure out exactly how they were finished originally. For the most part they weren't pretty furniture back in the day. In those days a wheel was just a wooden thing with spokes, and everyone knew it was a wooden thing with spokes, whether it was on a buggy or a car or a cannon, so no point in showing off your fancy wood. Roads were horrible, and people might drive through a small river or three feet of mud. Whatever was the most durable probably carried the day. Most wheels were probably painted. Today everyone wants the wood to show. In the 50s and 60s people wanted flashy so their antique would show up in a parade, and old wheels with their painted hubs and non-demountable rims sure did... but then what if the car/truck is a little newer and has demountable rims? I see demountable rims painted wheel color everywhere, including on my own car. but then wouldn't there be a similarly brightly colored rim up on the running board for a spare? You hardly ever see that. Nobody does it because it would look like hell, but logic dictates the spare rim should have the same finish as all the others. Also, prying around mounting tires would probably damage the finish. That argues for something like bare galvanized metal. Or maybe black, but black would get chipped up too, it just might show a little less. I think most Ford T demountables were galvanized (but I am no model T expert). You asked LOL

Which? The jet? It unscrews. Don't try with anything less than a perfectly fitting flat blade screwdriver. Carter probably had a special socket tool.

Have a good look at the coolant pipe(s) while you have the intake off.

Amp gauge may have been left unhooked or bypassed on purpose. Depending on what was used for a generator or alternator, it might be capable of more current than the gauge can handle. An amp gauge is like a flow meter. The charging system connects to one side, all of the small electrical loads in the car connect to that same side, and the battery connects to the other side. That way you see current flowing into the battery or out. As Jack mentioned, if it is connected backwards, it reads backwards. If it ran and worked before, don't be in a big rush to change connections.

You are going to need a title for that in WA. A signed one, that matches the numbers on the car. As I recall you do get cut some slack if the date on the signature is too old. That part might be a problem, or at least an expense if you wanted to transfer it and register it rather than scrap it.

One possibility is a defective part causing the firing voltage to be really high. Check your plug wires with an ohmmeter. Should be very low resistance if they are recent repro 7mm cloth wires (they don't make them in resistor versions). Look at your rotor and see if any pieces have fallen off. Look under your boots where the wires meet the cap for severe corrosion. Lastly, and maybe most importantly, look at the carbon button inside the distributor cap, and make sure it is contacting the rotor.

That can happen when you let a rod bearing get too loose on a babbitted engine. The rod knocks a flat spot on the crank journal. Once that happens, no amount of shimming and bearing scraping will help.

Well, the seal looks pretty normal. On my ball bearing hubs, I pried them out carefully with a flat prybar across the seal. Be careful not to dent them up if you do. Mine already were a little beat up, so I think I was more careful than the last guy. I never thought to try what Tinindian suggested. It probably would have worked. I never took the inner races out. One thing though, those balls look really close together. They may not have a retainer. Balls may go everywhere when the seal comes out.

Yes. It is called a needle. It is used for zerk (modern zerk) fittings on things like u-joints where there is not room to get a proper grease gun in. You stick the needle in the little hole, push like crazy, and pump. It is going to make a hell of a mess, particularly if you have never done it before. Sorry about that. There is also another kind that is about the same size around as the tip of that grease fitting in your pictures. It is not needle shaped at all, but has a concave tip. It is used the same way, hold it tight against the tip of the zerk and squeeze. Maybe a little better, but also makes a godawful mess. Any place that sells grease guns should have one or the other.

Bolt repair....... In that above photos you can see where the wires to the sockets attach on the inside of the bucket. Those are nickel plated brass machine screws. On the outside of that bakelite block, where the main wiring harness attaches to the headlight buckets, some steel hex-head bolts were used. Interestingly, the center ones (high beam) are larger (#10) than the outside ones (low beam and park), which are #8. All have the same head size. When I removed the headlight buckets, i had been spraying those with penetrating oil for a few days, and was gentle, but still managed to break two of the six bolts. Here are the two heads, bored out and tapped to #8 threads, and chamfered at the top. They will be brazed. I am sure I took a picture of them brazed before I filed them down flat. I can't find it. Anyway, here they are after replating with zinc. 2 of them are #10 and four are #8. I am pretty sure that is one of the repaired #8 bolts in front.