Bloo

Detuned antenna?

No kits as far as I know. I have a 36 and the only electric motors I have seen that might fit my car are 12 volt, although I have heard of 6 volt motors nobody seems to have any. If you are stuck on doing it, you might have to buy a bunch of different things and try them. Vacuum motors are smaller and a very different shape than electric ones, so what works on one car probably won't work on another, even if they took the same vacuum motor originally. Some cars probably can't ever be converted due to inadequate space. It might also matter what accessories the car has. Some cars cannot have a radio for instance if they have an electric conversion. The vacuum switch is just a linkage to a valve, so that would also have to change and making it look right might be a challenge. I had my vacuum motor rebuilt, and it works about like vacuum wipers work. Not like electric for sure, but on a 1936 there is no booster pump. At least on a 1938 you have a booster pump on the engine. It might not be too bad if it was freshened up.

The earliest Optimas I remember were 12 volt red tops, and came in 2 forms, both the approximate size of a group 24. One version had top posts, the other had both top posts and side posts.

Patience is the most important thing you can have as an auto mechanic, and also the toughest to acquire. Flinging wrenches is a sure sign he hasn't made it over that hump yet. It is not only credible, but you hit the nail on the head.

Maybe there were ball bearing standards by 1911, but considering that some of the common Chevrolet ball bearings have been discontinued for years, I'd say you were fortunate.

Yes. 12v to terminal 3.

Oooooops.. I didn't see the link. Lets start with the charging circuit (big wire). On the original setup, there was a pigtail on the battery cable. It ran to the horn relay. Another piece of wire ran from the horn relay to the big post on the back of the alternator, completing the circuit. A chunk of metal on the side of the horn relay functioned as a shunt for an ammeter on the trucks that had it. Most didn't, but Chevy wired them all that way. The aftermarket harness looks like it has the charging circuit running down to the other end of the battery cable at the starter, with apparently a fuse? This is more or less what GM did later on, except they would have used a fuse link. The less connections and the less wire length you have in this circuit the better. I think you can probably do it this way instead of running it through the horn relay if you want. The jumper the new harness has from the alternator's big terminal over to a little terminal will not be used. The brown wire coming out from the firewall connector should be the idiot light. You should probably verify that it really is. The underdash harness in these trucks are different on ones with an ammeter instead of an idiot light. If it has ever been changed without changing the underdash harness, things can get really confusing, at least on a 66, and its probably the same on yours. Here is what you should see under the dash: The socket for the idiot light (GEN) should be the floating type with 2 wires (no ground). One wire should be switched power that is live with the ignition on. The other one should be running out through the firewall and end in that brown wire that the harness maker intended you to hook to an internally regulated alternator. If that is all true, Grounding the brown wire with the key on should turn the GEN light on. The brown wire just described now needs to connect to the voltage regulator, terminal 4. You will need to make a little harness to hook everything else up. It will be 4 wires that run from the alternator to the regulator. it would be 3 wires if you were running the charging circuit through the horn relay like Chevy did, but I am assuming for the moment you are doing the charging circuit (big wire) the modern way. The four wires are as follows: 1) Ground. Bolt it to the alternator case (there's an empty screw hole on the back somewhere intended for this). Put a big ring terminal on the other end and attach it to one of the bolts holding the regulator to the truck. 2) Field. This is the regulator's control wire. It is blue on my truck. It connects to the F terminal on the regulator. On my alternator it connects to the spade furthest from the large post. It is probably marked F at the alternator end too, not sure about that. 3) Stator. This is hot when the alternator is turning. It is a white wire on my truck. It runs from terminal 2 on the regulator (right next to "F) to the other spade on the alternator. 4) 12v Hot. This would normally come from the horn relay. It is just battery hot. Drop another ring terminal over the big hot post on the back of the alternator. Connect it to terminal 3 at the regulator end.

I am aware they used all sorts of things other than seals to keep the grease under control. When you originally posted that I thought your intention was to put a positive seal on it. Some guys attempt that nowdays, particularly with front transmission bearings. I sometimes wonder if they plug the little port that would just let the oil run out to the other side of the bearing. Myself I stick with the original method unless it proves that it cannot keep the oil under control. My 36 Pontiac axle has passages to insure that if oil gets out, it will run down the outside of the wheel instead of getting in the brakes. It would only happen if you parked on on a really extreme angle, and I don't. It doesn't have seals at all on the rear engine main or transmission input shaft. Seals can't fail when there aren't any. The White is really looking terrific. Keep us posted. .

Your diagrams did not post for some reason. It is different, and there are more wires. Sounds like you will be making your own little alternator harness. By c20, do you mean Chevrolet pickup? If so, I have a 66 c10 Suburban with an externally regulated alternator setup and an idiot light. I may be able to answer some questions.

I think I may have misinterpreted what you said earlier about grease contamination. I thought you meant contamination of the brakes, not the bearing. It is hard to imagine anything less than a contact seal holding the axle lubricant back. .

The picture makes it look like a shielded bearing, not a sealed one. Is that an optical illusion? .

A long time ago I had a customer who had a green one with 327 and posi, but it was an automatic. It went like crazy, and idled so slow and smooth you could not tell if it was running. .

I agree. I was just pointing out that Borg-Warner changed the 2nd gear ratio in the transmissions attached to the overdrive in these "twin sticks" to make a spread between second over and high under. This in contrast to the normal overdrives where the expectation was to be in second under, high under or high over, and it didn't matter if two of the possible ratios were almost the same.

Did Buick have an impulse mag in 1913 or was that added later?

I would at least look for another one. Anything could be fixed with enough sandblasting and welding. I can weld and not much scares me, but I think it would be a lot of work, and probably unnecessary. I don't think the frame would be a high dollar item if you could just find another. Figuring out how to get it to PA might be the tough part.

It is almost the same as a normal Borg Warner overdrive, but has a different second gear ratio in the transmission because it is meant to split gears. .

There has to be airspace at the top of a radiator. Old vehicles like that are not sealed systems, so the overflow tube should just go in high somewhere. The overflow tube should always be open to the top tank, and not arranged like a modern car where coolant has to blow past a pressure cap to get out the overflow tube. As long as the water covers the top of the tubes so that the core is full you are not losing cooling capacity. The top tank should be mostly air with the engine cold. It is space for the water to expand into when it heats. That is by design. When the water expands, if it has nowhere to go it will pop the radiator like a balloon.

And cars were famous for breaking arms. I was taught the left hand method as the only safe way. I don't know when it came into being. Maybe later. Maybe much later. I did not live through those times.

Isn't that what the hook and spring is for?

One of mine already turned 100. Now what? 1913 Studebaker SA-25 .

Wait, what?!! I didn't know that. Does Peter know that?

Where are you located? Anything is repairable if you are a good welder, but I have a sneaking hunch that a frame from a western state would probably not have any structural rust. That could save you a lot of work and probably expense. Of course I am shooting from the hip because I can't really see the damage from the pics.

Yep. There's no such thing as a "Firefly", at least from Desoto. Fireflite would have Desoto front fenders rather than those Dodge ones. Probably a Firesweep.

I am using jack oil in my 36 Pontiac in the one shock that was low on oil. It has Delco-Lovejoy lever shocks, very similar those used on the 37 Buick. The jack oil seems to work fine. A better plan might be to contact one of the companies who rebuild lever shocks and ask. Here are a couple: http://www.applehydraulics.com/shocks.htm https://fivepointsclassicautoshocks.com/ .

It's an early GM alternator for use with an external regulator. If a 63 Wildcat uses an alternator, that one will probably hook up and work fine. Whether it is the correct part or not, I don't know.