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  1. Mystery solved. There are 2 holes. One facing the driver's side for oil feed, one facing the passenger. The oil feed is heavily countersunk and drilled at the center of the bearing. Both the holes are 5/16" and the locating bolt will fit in either, but of course only the locating hole is drilled in the right place for alignment. Locating hole was mangled before I got my hands on it.
  2. From what I could see through the bolt hole the front bearing seems similar to a Model T. My current theories are someone redrilled the locating hole and missed, or someone replaced it with a non maxwell bearing and the alignment hole isn't in the right position. I'm thinking I'll rotate the carrier around and see if theres another pin hole.
  3. Getting my front engine parts back together I have a curiosity I'd like advice on. When I was installing the rear gear train plate back on I made a new camshaft bearing keeper bolt/pin because the old one was worn and seemed too short. With the original bolt installed the camshaft and bearing carrier could be pushed and pulled I think about 3/16" out of the block. I made a longer pin and checked its length and alignment and somehow the camshaft could be wiggled back and forth while gently screwing in the pin until it seemed like the keeper pin fully seated. At this point the keeper bolt bo
  4. Finally got the last gear off the gear train, and this. Huge gap around the top of the front bearing. I didn't shove the feeler gauge in deep, I didn't want to damage the bearing any more. That's just the biggest feeler gauge that would slip into the gap for a visual. I knew the #1 rod bearing had side play but figured I'd let it go. What options do I have with this? I have no intentions of rebuilding the motor, recasting babbit is where I draw the line on this project. This thing will be mostly going at parade speeds, but I had ambitions of the ocassional across town road trip.
  5. Got it off. For anyone wondering in the future, the camshaft threads are 3/4-16.
  6. I made an adapter bushing to graft it together. The end of the shaft was cruddy and reduced from all the punching that had been done to retain the gear before. Since the gear I have is only 1/4" thick I didnt trust that as a mounting surface, plus it would'nt be very removable. I turned down the end of the shaft to .375 and made a bushing with .489 nose for the gear and a .375 reamed hole. I'm going to silver solder the gear to the bushing. Need to put in a hole for the roll pin and I'm good to go.
  7. The nut was a little tough to get off but the threads look ok, the nut is in decent shape and the center on the shaft is still good. One thing i did notice is the nut wasn't actually down against the gear so I was curious if there should have been a washer or fold over lock washer in there. I'll give the threads and shaft a good cleaning and looking over tonight. I'll also measure my gear and send you the specs to make sure it's actually going to work for a spare if need be.
  8. I'm working my way in to seal up nasty oil leaks. The camshaft gear is my current obstacle. I got a 3 jaw puller and it seems like it's getting a good grip at the base of the spokes. However the spokes are a pretty thin section and I don't want to go yanking on 'em just to blow them out. I've tugged, tapped, torched, sat overnight under load and after another round of all of the above tonight I sprayed the stub with solvent and a healthy dose of WD40 to let it marinate under load until tomorrow. Any tricks for getting it off? Am I not giving the gear enough credit and I can crank away un
  9. Its a bummer that for the trucks they indicate the engine and serial number, but only list them by 5 digit serial number. While cars seem to go by a 6 digit number, which im guessing is the same as the engine number. The wood "interior" of my truck had been remade at some point and the serial plate is long gone.
  10. I guess I may have an AK gear set grafted to a later dist. Gear is .845- .850 outside, .250 thick, .488 ID.
  11. Looks like I may end up trying to turn down my shaft, making a sleeve with pin hole for the gear to fit the new shaft size, and silver soldering it together. If that fails I'll start with another distributor I suppose. If I could only get my hands on one of these: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6310524&cc=1335530&jsn=559
  12. the specs list it as a simms generator. Oh boy! I think my gear quest is coming close to an end. Is your 14 tooth gear a single piece? I can only imagine mine was butchered into 2 pieces for an unknown reason.
  13. I would agree, at least thats what would probably connect to it. However the 1917 truck owners manual has no instructions on how to run the starter, but has instructions for hand cranking, while the car manual has starter instructions but nothing for hand cranking. Layout drawings for the truck of the period that specifically do not show the starter, but have the horn and other accessories shown, even the cover plate on the starter hole. Sales articles from period also don't mention a starter. I'm only a month into my Maxwell journey so I am likely very wrong. I'm somewhat eyeing this
  14. It seems my engine number is 304354. So that lines up with a 1920? I wonder if it had a few retrofits over its days. No starter, but it seems like the trucks didn't have one stock, I guess they wanted your drivers to earn their pay. It has a separate generator off a model T that was adapted to fit the maxwell bracket and wide belt pulley. My only snag with an AK system I think is I'd like to run 12 volts and I don't know if the AK is 12 or 6 or if its one of those systems that doesn't care. I'm going to do some measurements tonight and see if someone on the forum has a new gear
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