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MaxwellFox

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  1. One more with the housing dropped in position covering the hole.
  2. Working on getting my transmission rebuild back together and im noticing the oil drainback hole for the rear bearing doesnt make alot of sense. The manual says the ball joint should get filled with grease (which doesnt make sense either) so you would'nt really want transmission oil getting in there anyways. But the drainback is right against the ball joint housing. I could carve a notch out of the gasket between the two but that would only give a drain the thickness of the gasket, and the universal joint would likely fill with oil because of slow draining through such a small opening. Im considering notching or drilling the ball housing to meet the drainback. This would allow oil into the ball and universal joint which seems better than grease, and would be a level controller to drain oil back into the trans when the ball has enough oil. Anybody seen this setup? Am I missing something?
  3. Yeah. Ford used them apparently too in early cars. My only theory for the roller is oilite hadnt been invented in 1920, and the oil feed to the pilot area isnt great, so a roller bearing was better than the bronze alloys at the time for the situation.
  4. I was starting to consider that, but was still hoping maybe the roller was picked for some good reason. Pilot bearing discussions usually become heat treatment of the shaft surfaces and that you can't necessarily swap bearings and bushings. However, I would figure that a surface designed for a bearing would be hard, thus OK for a bushing, but not the other way around.
  5. My clutch pilot bearing seems to be one of the few things that got rusty in my transmission department. Finding the darn thing is proving harder than I expected. It's a caged needle bearing, 1.125" od, .812" id, 1.75 long. Right now Im considering dismantling the bearing cage and replacing the rollers. My other thought is to eliminate the cage altogether and just fill the bore with needles if feasible, but I cant really find any info for this sort of substitution in a transmission. Any ideas?
  6. Success! The driveshaft weighs as much as the trans so be ready for that. Also if you can remove your exhaust pipe or manifold the job would be super easy.
  7. Looking for the double tang finger spring that keeps the shifter from wobbling around or an alternative for a 1926 chrysler 4 cylinder/maxwell/ anything else it was on. Mine has a busted off tang and the other one is cracked. I can do modifications and reworks on replacements, just need a base to start from.
  8. Looking for the flat spring that keeps the shifter handle from shaking around or jumping out of neutral. Not sure what year is compatible, but probably 1917+ 4 cylinder. Also any alternatives anyone may have. At the moment my plans are: willy's jeeps have a semi similar part I could modify, or I'm making a new one from scratch.
  9. Problem solved: tap the cap with a long punch or piece of wood till it pops off. Then tap cylinder cover until it slides off the top.
  10. Maybe if you find one it would be worth 3d scanning or making a silicone mold to make some more? Im considering doing that with some headlight lenses I have.
  11. Can the shift tower for a 4 cylinder come apart? It's gunky up inside and I'd like to check it all for wear etc. I fear the cap on the shift rod is crimped on and holding the whole thing together. The middle sleeve rotates but doesn't seem to unscrew. The parts diagram shows the lever as a separate part, so it must be removable. The plungers for gear positions unscrew but that's all I can really get at so far.
  12. I was fearing your spider horror story. Would a few test hand cranks after reassembly have identified the clunk or snag, or was it only when running? Oh, the spider is attached to the flywheel inside the clutch it looks like? If so, that makes more sense, the spider and studs stay with the engine side and the clutch disk slides off the studs with the trans.
  13. I'm guessing the 4 cylinder trans and clutch comes out by unbolting the bell housing and driveshaft, sliding it rearward and dropping it down? Anything else I need to consider? Thanks
  14. I'm pretty satisfied with my engine situation so I'm working my way front to back. Drained the clutch and found liquid peanut butter. From what I can see through the acccess hole the clutch parts look oily and clean so things may be ok inside. The clutch functions, with lots of free play then a ka-chunk, but I haven't checked its rolling operation. It looks like it may have the original leather clutch surface. There were previous discussions about clutches and there weren't pinned/locked nuts. Mine has slotted and cottered nuts on the clutch spider. OK, to the crux: has anyone ever done the recommended kerosene/diesel flush? Any tips for the procedure, or particularly with the water contamination? Just fill it up and skip the flush? Can I run with the leather surface? Let it run until it poops out, or change it now? With the cottered spider nuts, would they have been an improvement on my later engine? Anything to consider or check with them?
  15. Got some of this 5mm rubber cork blend and cut out a gasket for my 1920 truck after a failed silicone gasket. The size is right for the cover and the price is darn cheap. It seems to be holding up well after a long run last night whereas my previous gasket would have leaked by now. I siliconed the gasket to the block to fix the gasket on the narrow sealing edges, and left it bare against the cover plate. https://www.ebay.com/itm/MIL-SPEC-MIL-G-12803-CORK-GASKET-MATERIAL-0-20-5MM-X-6-1-2-X-24-SHEET-/352929560835?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
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