Bloo

Yes. I think that idea was mostly overwith by the late 30s. Oil consumption was high in those days no matter what, but if I am not mistaken the consensus later on was that the fourth ring was doing more harm than good.

The Hupp dealer network had at one time been huge. By 1941, no doubt it was getting really thin. The flow of cars had been uneven and slow for various reasons for several years, and the Skylark was also delayed. I think it likely that anyone who still had Hupp in 1940 or 41 was also selling something else, though if it was Graham, that was probably just a coincidence.

How bad is the guide? I have my doubts about the LN2, but cant wait to see whether it works. Typically using heat for steel on steel pressed items is useless on disassembly, but very useful on reassembly. There's too much heat transfer between the steel parts when they are assembled. It will be a great thing to know if LN2 works. There is really no advantage to replacing the intake valves if they are good and have plenty of margin left, unless you are getting postwar metallurgy (or better) out of the deal. Even then, intake valves are not prone to failure.

Post a picture of a fitting. The fittings are probably "threaded sleeve" fittings. You may not need to replace the lines , but you might have to cut a tiny bit off the end. Pictures will tell the story. If they are "threaded sleeve" fittings, Blackhawk Supply carries them. If you want or need to replace the steel lines, the steel tubing is Bundyflex brake tubing. It is the same as most old fashioned brake tubing. NAPA should be able to get it. Although they are pushing more modern coated brake line today, I believe they still have the old type in the warehouse. I think we just had a pages long thread about all of this, didn't we?

This^^ This is the right way. If only F&J's post could be substituted for all the wrong ones floating around the Internet...... Works on torque tubes too if you have 2 people, just put the driveshaft mark on the front engine pulley instead, take the spark plugs out, and put the transmission in 1:1 direct (usually high gear).

Because speedometers are one of the most frustrating things you will ever encounter on a car. Gauges might not be so bad.

I'm not expert but I used to own a Nash. Could it be 3.125? If not, my best guess is they are for the Nash 600 engine through 1949. The bore and stroke info that is cut and pasted all over the internet is wrong. If you do the math the cubic inches don't come out right. 200+ cubic inches for a Nash 600 cannot be right. The 600 engine became the Statesman and Rambler engine in 1950 with a displacement increase, and then the Rambler 196 Flathead with another displacement increase later on (maybe 1954-1955?). I don't recall what they did with the stroke, but the Internet's idea that the 600's bore is 3.4 just has to be wrong.

Agreed, but it still results in a comparatively narrow contact pattern. By the way I did not mean to suggest going to the "next size bigger: or something on the valve. Only that if the seat requires too much cutting the valve will wind up too low because the seat is now a little too big. A new valve should take care of that usually. A used one might or might not. Your valve in the picture looks fine to me. I would expect the lapping mark to wind up a little thinner on freshly ground valves, but not by much. This is in my opinion exactly what I would be looking for on a re-lap. If @Professor can get a pattern like that, he's good to go.

If you duplicate the boot, please post.

Unstick the points. Maybe drag some paper soaked in brake cleaner through them to clean the surface a little. That is probably all that is wrong. Beyond that, that round thing looks like it might be a capacitor. If it is, it probably technically needs replacing, but I would not be in a hurry to do so. See if the horn has a habit of getting stuck all the time, If not, don't worry about it. Figuring out what value (in microfarads) to replace it with would be tough so I wouldn't go there unless necessary. Horns are hardly ever fused because they are almost a dead short until they start vibrating. They would probably blow the fuse constantly.

Can someone confirm that this plug and it's purpose and port routing are the same on the original poster's 1936 40 series? As I understand it the big cars (60-80-90) got an all new engine (the 320) in 1936, but the 40 series continued with the smaller eight of previous years. Isn't the 1937 and later 40 series engine a new and different engine compared to a 1936 40 series engine? Just checking to see if we are all on the same page. Corrections welcome.

Typically you want the valve up high, not the wrong size of course, but a little bigger is better. Valves with a lot of margin left and the seats not worn out stick up. Recession is a sign of wear. It also reduces flow. If the seat recession is fairly bad, cutting the seat will make it bigger You might want the valve slightly oversize if things don't fit up quite right. It's better than using inserts because there is less to go wrong. I have never heard that narrow seats are bad, or that they could contribute to burning, in fact that contradicts everything I learned in tech school. The valve and seat are usually ground 1 degree different. This results in a fairly narrow contact area when the engine is new. Sometimes one valve is 30 degrees (and one degree different than the seat) instead of the usual 45. On a 3 angle valve job, the top and bottom of the seat and face are angled away in the interest of better flow, but the valve face and seat at the center still have the expected one degree difference, and a fairly narrow contact area. A wide seat is not necessarily bad though, especially in a lowly stressed engine. If you can lap a new valve to the seat, and you get a nice even gray stripe around the middle of the ground seat, and the stripe is not too close to the top of the valve, you are good to go. It's what they would have done in the 30s.

Is it possible you have removed an oil gallery plug? Pictures couldn't hurt.

I don't even know what to say about those disintegrating valves. Odd. Normally what determines whether a valve needs replacing is the "margin", in other words the flat area along the edge, measured after the valve is ground. Not every every engine needs new exhaust valves, even if it burned one. It comes down to measurements just like a bearing. Usually margin is the problem, but stem wear could also be an issue. On the other hand, if there is a metallurgy problem or maybe you want to replace everything. Edinmass has spoken of having new valves made out of better materials for some prewar cars, but that was really expensive. If you are using NOS/NORS replacement parts that were made before the war, a new valve is probably no better than an used one, depending on margin.

Are you sure the gearing is right?

A couple years ago I sent a mid 60s speedometer to Commercial Speedometer in West Sacramento, CA. I don't recall what the repair cost, but I'm pretty sure it wasn't $500. It came back working great and looking new. The guy who worked on it has been doing this since 1958. Worth a phone call I'd say. Prewar stuff IMHO is going to be completely in a different class than run of the mill Detroit stuff from the 60s and 70s. I'm not surprised @Matt Harwood 's was expensive.

800, sometimes written as 8.00 is the section width in inches (8 inches). The section width is the widest part of the tire, measured on whatever rim width the tire was designed on. Section height, measured from the bead seat to the tread, can be either 100%, 90%, or 82% (sometimes 80%) of section height, depending on when the size was introduced. The 82%(80%) sizes were introduced in 1965, and in most cases the section width number ends in a "5", so we can rule that out. 8.00 x 100% = 8.00 (8.00 x 2) + 15 = 31 31 inch (787.4mm) tall tire with an 8 inch (203.2mm) section width or 8.00 x 90% = 7.20 (7.20 x 2) + 15 = 29.4 29.4 inch (746.8mm) tall tire with an 8 inch (203.2mm) section width I don't know which is right, I suspect 100%. It probably doesn't matter, because the tire manufacturers did not hold extremely close to the marked size in those days, and it is even worse in reproduction tires. I believe the large 15 inch sizes are some of the worst for size accuracy. The reproduction tire manufacturers publish actual measurements like modern manufacturers do, so it is possible to know what you are getting before you order it.

This is the correct way. Dwell may change with RPM, but that is just a coincidence. It won't tell you if the weights work properly. Those adjust timing automatically with increasing RPM, and to check them you need a "dial back" style timing light, or timing tape on the front pulley and a standard timing light, or a distributor machine. It is timing advance, not dwell that might change for higher octane. You should be fine with the stock setting, but I might try 3 more degrees of timing and see how it runs. If it's fine, I might try another three. higher octane fuel often allows a little more timing advance, and more timing advance will make a little extra power. Potential problems from too much timing advance are pinging or detonation, an uneven miss either idling or revved up in neutral, trouble starting because the engine "chugs" or tries to kick back on itself, or trouble getting the idle speed set right.

The rod's whole purpose in life is to pull the bottom corner in. It is a wooden body. The hinges could be loose and sagging. If the hinge pins are wore out you should fix those first. Doors can be aligned with shims or possibly wedges under the hinges. Door openings (squareness) are adjusted with shims under the body sills. Suggest you read the manual, stand back from the car and take a good look from multiple angles before deciding what to adjust. It probably won't be obvious. Read the door and body alignment sections in this: http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/fisher/3536fbsm/index.html Read the 1935 part too. It is the same except the front doors are hung backwards. They left the detailed instructions out of the 1936 section. If you wind up needing to replace some wood, this older manual contains more of the secrets of how a Fisher body was built than the 1936 manual does. It is definitely worth a read if you need to go deeper. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/fisher/2632fbsm/index.html Good luck, and let us know how it goes!

I might check with West Coast Classic Cougar if you haven't already. I have bought small parts for a Marauder from them that happened to be the same as Cougar parts. They seem to be sticklers for quality, and if they don't have what you need you might get some good leads on where to go. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/

There is also Lucas Tire: https://www.lucasclassictires.com/ who handle some of the same tires as Coker and Universal, but not always exactly the same tires. And there is Diamondback, who have radial tires available that look like bias ply tires, both blackwall and whitewall: https://dbtires.com/ Welcome!

What car? Cloth wire? If so, Rhode Island Wire https://riwire.com or Y&Z https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/ . Probably worth checking with even if not cloth wire.

The whole point is to not let the battery get too low from self-discharge. Sure you can and should disconnect the battery, and that is a big deal if the car has things that draw all the time, but it does nothing about what is happening chemically inside the battery. All of them self-discharge. If you let a battery sit around partially charged, or worse discharged for a long period, it is getting sulphated. Tenders are a tool specifically designed to get around this problem. Overcharging is even worse, and batteries that cannot be allowed to drain down at all, such as the ones in uninterruptible power supplies don't last very long. There has to be a happy medium, and the idea is to let them drain down a little bit but don't let them sit drained. I've been using maintainers for a while now. From watching them I do think they come on too much, but the results have been excellent. They must not be hurting the batteries. There are some pretty old batteries around here. The 36 Pontiac's battery is from 2015 if I remember correctly, and hasn't shown any sign of weakness. Before I started using a trickle charger with a timer, and later fully automatic tenders, I was lucky to get 2 seasons out of a 6 volt battery. I use tenders on 12 volt cars too. If you think the tender comes on more than it should, put a timer on it.

Pretty surprising how good acetylene lights are, isn't it?

Well yes but wait a minute. @BoattailLou , what is the exact problem with the gauge when everything is hooked up and you are driving the car? Too high? Too low? Not working at all? A 1971 GM gauge should be 0-90 ohms. I would have expected the 47 ohm resistor to read something closer to 1/2 tank.