mike6024

After you are all done painting, and you want to "wet sand" the final surface to a mirror polish, that's totally different. I was just referring to sanding between coats. Also sanding the skim coat filler and then the first "sandable primer" coat is not so critical either. I would suggest the sanding on the final primer coat before the first paint coat should be about 400 grit. And sanding between paint coats also be 400. But sanding on the filler, and sanding the first primer coat, not that critical.

It is grossly overpriced.

The '37 is better looking.

Looks good. Now you don't sand that at all. Go to filler, can sand that. And a different type of "sandable" primer. The sandable primer can go on thicker and can be used as a filler in it's own right, to an extent. Just FYI: if you are sanding and you don't want scratches from the sandpaper to show though a paint coat you should get down to 400 grit preferably. Maybe use successively finer grits, something like 150, 220, 320 and finally 400. Each time you go to a finer grit look to see you are eliminating the scratches from the previous coarser grit. Maybe 320 would be good to paint over too, but I've read 400 is best if you don't want sanding scratches to show through a paint coat.

Different view, Pikes Peak

Leg room galore. I don't know if I'd call that messy work, rather not much has been done. Car has been in storage for decades and minimal was done to get it running.

I read that too quick at first and thought you said you were pleasantly surprised by the messy....

I like it. Out of my price range though. Would much rather have the '37 Airflow which is one of the cars in the "For Sale - Not Mine" category. https://www.autobarnclassiccars.com/vehicles/1164/1937-cadillac-series-75-cabriolet-limousine-town-car

Remember this picture John? Leg room in back looks good!!!

That is the car with the padded top that needs to be replaced which was discussed previously.

That's a lot of flat real estate between the rear fenders.

Steve Purdy is an editor with The Auto Channel, as well with the Automotive Heritage Foundation. I never heard of either, but would like to say that The Auto Channel apparently does reviews of new cars. Monthly online publication, like this one where the Ford F-150 EV is featured. https://www.theautochannel.com/news/2021/05/19/1000390-official-close-up-advanced-electric-ford-f-150-amazing.html DEARBORN, Mich., May 19, 2021 – The truck of the future is here. The F-150 Lightning is the smartest, most innovative truck Ford has ever built. From near instant torque to intelligent towing, seamless connectivity to software updates, plus power for your home, a power frunk and a digital screen that’s larger than any currently offered on a full-size truck – F-150 Lightning is a driving and ownership experience unlike any other. F-150 Lightning will roll off the line next year at a new high-tech factory using sustainable manufacturing practices at Ford’s storied Rouge complex in Dearborn just outside Detroit. https://cloud.3dissue.com/89166/89559/132405/P702/index.html?r=96

56 does look nice https://www.collarcityauctionsonline.com/servlet/Goto.do?lotId=56&Send=Search#

Detroit Editor at The Auto Channel https://autoheritagefoundation.org/2021/07/16/automotive-heritage-foundation-bulletin-9-july-2021

These are what 1954 Chevrolet truck steering wheels look like supposedly.

1954 Chevy Truck steering wheel and column

Yes you're right. The condition of the body is much more important than a minor oil leak. If it has not been in an accident, and has minimal to no rust it is very valuable.

I would be very reluctant to pay for a full engine rebuild on this, if that's what it comes to. The reason I was commenting on that missing shim that did not need to go back in, is that I think it means all the mains are loose. If removing a shim brings one in to spec for main bearing clearance, that means, I suspect, they were all very loose. So you will have all the main bearing clearances checked with the plasti-gage. If they are all way too loose then maybe that can be brought down by removing a shim from the others, or using thinner shims. You got good oil pressure when the new oil pump was installed. But I suspect it was putting out more volume than it should have needed to in order to achieve that pressure. If the bearing clearances were all reduced to be within spec, ie tightened up, then you would still get good oil pressure but with reduced volume (meaning lower oil flow rate). That's how I'd approach it anyway. Get the situation with the valves corrected. Check the crankshaft bearing clearances and see if they can be all brought to within spec. Beyond that you get into having the crankshaft ground, replacing pistons and rings if the compression it still low. Sounds overwhelming cost wise.

I have a part like that. Not going to sell it cheap.

It's sick really, they are like a disease those video games. Widespread problem. Impacts basic education.

Consolidated Orange Growers truck loaded with orange crates in front of office, 1930 — Calisphere

Orange County Archives from 1894 to the 1940's

I would say $25K to $30K. If it's as nice as it looks I would auction it on Bring a Trailer. They have done well there. The 4 wheel drive boosts the value significantly. Comparables: SOLD FOR $41,000 ON 9/26/21, 1979 Chevrolet K5 Blazer Cheyenne 4×4 SOLD FOR $23,750 ON 8/19/21, 1984 Chevrolet K5 Blazer Silverado

No way it was going to meet reserve. Probably got the message, either lift the reserve or you are going to end up keeping it.