SpecialEducation

While I generally agree that heat kills transmissions (well, it really kills the fluid, which then kills the transmission), cold fluid that doesn't flow right can also be an issue. In fact, some high performance vehicles have a warning light when the transmission is too COLD. While it's perfectly driveable cold, it's not recommended to tromp on it until things warm up. The idea is that there's an optimal temperature range that keeps the fluid at the appropriate viscosity. I think by running the trans fluid through the radiator tank, it helps to maintain a more consistent fluid temperature. Fluid also transfers heat more efficiently than air, so you don't need to have as large of a cooler when you do fluid-to-fluid vs. fluid-to-air. That said, the way most of these cars are driven, it probably doesn't matter much either way. If you aren't pulling a trailer, racing the thing, or driving in Alaska in February, you'll probably be just fine. The hotter the fluid gets, the shorter its life, so if there are signs of it running hot, just change the fluid more often.

Online registration is now open! If you prefer snail mail, you can download a form and send it in the old fashioned way... I also set up a Facebook page for our chapter today.

That doesn't bother me much, I spent last weekend at the Oldsmobile Homecoming, and it was AWESOME! The weekend before was the big all wheels show out at the lake (about 20 miles outside of town). Got there a little late, only spotted 2 other Buicks. Finally got around to editing photos last night...

Try this: https://m.facebook.com/1956Buick/photos/?tab=album&album_id=798374006904806&ref=page_internal Check the cowl tag to know what the factory trim code is...

For an original look, you also need to swap the dash cover...

I just really love the way this was translated... There's a lot of things I'd like someone to pay me to do! In retrospect, I guess Giorgio was asking if the 1956 Dynaflow changed gears in drive (D), to which we know the answer was 'No.' Did I get that right, or am I still lost in the translation?

She's pretty, great find!

Yeah, there are two reasons torque balls leak. One is just the design itself, the other is the materials used. The new kits not only change the design slightly, but the seal materials are way ahead of what was available years ago. If it's not leaking now, it will soon, and its enough of a pain to get at later that I think you'll kick yourself later if you don't do it now. Just my 2¢...

My understanding is that some '56 balls had holes going through the ball and the rubber inside and out was all the same piece. As I recall, if you have one of these style torque balls, your best bet is to send it out for revulcanizing. I think we had rubber in there, but we didn't touch it. When we removed the outer rubber, I recall being relieved that there were no holes. If there wasn't rubber on the inside, I think the lack of holes would have been obvious. We did the torque ball in the fall of 2013, and have had no leaks there since. I'll have to look to see if we have pix of the inside.

Looks right to me. The ID of the seal in your last shot should fit the OD of the shaft before the torque tube (fluid should not be getting to the splines). That's the final check to keep the red stuff north of the axle. As far as rubber on the ball goes, some say to leave it. We didn't:

I have been known to make time lapse videos: https://www.facebook.com/1956Buick/videos/vb.169746389767574/4174852769176/?type=2&theater If Hagerty wants to pay for the parts & machine work, I'll do a time lapse of a 322 rebuild for them...

See also: http://home.wideopenwest.com/~gcockerill/1960_buick_011.htm

What year? I don't know why you would have any info from a cowl tag of a 1956 Buick on the title (but I guess other years could be different). The body number is serialized to plant production sequence, but means nothing to the state. This is Chevy specific, but otherwise, pretty close: http://www.chevyclassicsclub.com/wp-content/themes/chevyclassicsclub/pdf/tech0112.pdf

Welcome to the forum, David! We are glad you are here. That's a great looking Roady! D'oh! I'm in trouble, now...

Speaking of borrowed tools, the tools I lend out the most are my pickle forks. My first pickle fork was Chinese. So was my second & third. Then I got a real set that has changable heads and will load up in a rivet gun (air hammer - but not like a Chinese air hammer). WOW! It's amazing how well these simple machines work when the material is the correct hardness! Digital cameras are also one of the greatest inventions known to mechanics. I started snapping pictures as I took things apart back in about 1999/2000, and I also take pictures of people holding my tools when they borrow them so I can document date, condition, and identity.

Well, I won't relentlessly hunt him down, but if we cross paths, I'll give him a nudge. What part of the country are you from, dkassner? And do you have a name we can call you that rolls off the tounge a little smoother than dkassner? I'm going to guess yer in the north if you bought it in October, but managed to keep it mothballed until March. One of the neat things about this forum that a lot of other forums don't have is that "Like this" button at the bottom right of each post. If someone gives you useful information (or tells a funny joke), you can give it a like to acknowledge your appreciation without having to type out a personal response to every post. Also, you might consider adding a signature, introducing yourself, show us some photos (of your Buick), and telling us a little about you and your Buick. There's lots of folks here who are glad to help perfect strangers, but it's nice to know we're not just typing to the wind. Most of us don't bite, but Dale in Indy will probably tell you that you need to paint some SCALLOPS on that fitty-five (good thing you don't have a VISOR). One of us might even offer you 20% off your first year to join the BCA, but that pitch usually gets tossed in the introductions thread..

The Power Tour will be here Thurdsay. Tell me who to look for; I'll hunt him down and make him feel bad for leaving you stranded!

Fortunately for me, it's a long drive from New York to Kansas!

As a matter of fact, we bought an external seal kit, then had to go back and buy a master overhaul kit. The first kit got opened, so it's not returnable, but it should be complete (I'll check). I'd make you a super deal on it!

By the way, does EVERY '56 water pump casting out there have the weep hole busted out? We ordered 3 or 4 pumps from various places before I finally found one that wasn't busted at the weep hole (not that it really effects operability, but it makes me wonder about the integrity of the casting). When we removed the pump that came with the car, we rolled it over and found the weep hole busted out!

I need to check the spares I have... We did the torque ball a while back, but developed a gusher at the front seal. If you are pulling the Dynaflow to do the front seal, just get an external seals kit from Fatsco. It comes with the front shaft seal, new converter o-ring, pan gasket, accumulator gaskets, etc... $76: http://www.fatsco.net/store.html#!/1955-1960-Buick-Dynaflow-Kits/p/51562999/category=18246069 What I don't know is how the Fatsco rear shaft seal compares to the wrong one that Bob's sent us, so I can't say for sure if Fastsco got it right. We didn't change it this go-round, so I should have the Bob's and Fatsco to compare.side-by-side. I'll try to dig them up and let you know.

Well, I'll officially declare the cruise and climate control systems as separate issues. I haven't had dash vents for nearly a week now no matter what I do, but the cruise has generally been decent 80% of the time. Since I've gone hard fail on the dash vents (but the floor vents for bi-level switch over perfectly), I popped the glove box down and pulled the hoses free from the programmer. When hitting the blue hose with source vacuum, the dash/defrost door flopped every time. I flipped the blue & orange hoses and now I have dash vents in auto again. Oddly, when I hit bi-level, I lose the dash and it goes back to defrost while the floor vents open up. I guess it's time to pull the programmer out and see if it's something I can repair, or if I'll dad will be buying a new programmer. Actually, it's time to go on vacation, so it'll be nearly 2 weeks before I get back into this... Oh, getting in there, I guess the recirc actuator is electric while the other doors are vacuum. I'll also note that all of the soft bits in the system are still quite soft and flexible, with no signs of cracking.

As the topic of brake lines has come up in another thread, a good 45 degree double flare kit is a good thing to keep on hand.

Sounds like you are talking about this stuff, Barney: http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-NiCopp-Nickel-Copper-Brake-Lines/2111534/10002/-1