SpecialEducation

Agree. At the moment our wheels are black as well, but that splash of Seminole Red can sure make those wheel assemblies look sharp. Ours had obvious traces of red when we got it, so we think it probably came with red felloes when new. How about a photo, Mr. Mereness? I'd like to see what yours look like!

Sounds about right, if I run them up to 120 PSI, the back end sits about 1.5" too high... If lopsidedness is an issue, just buy an extra installation kit and run different pressures on each. Put minimum pressure in the high side, then run the low side up until the car sits level side to side. Obviously, having the correct springs with the correct springrate is the best solution, but if money is tight and you already have airshocks installed, adding some extra tube and an extra valve is a cheap and easy workaround.

I believe it was first used in 1949, on the Roadmaster, but quickly spread to the other models as well. The Riviera designation was given to post-less hardtops, with no pillar behind the front door and no frame around the door window. The idea is that with the windows down it is like a convertible with the top up, with an unobstructed panoramic view out the side. So much like a convertible, in fact, that our '56 Riv is a model 46R, and a convertible would have been a 46C. 1955 saw the introduction of the 4-door Rivieras on the small bodied Special and Century, '56 for the Super & Roadmaster. 1957 saw the introduction of the Riviera wagons. Specials were available with posts and as hardtop Rivieras, where Centurys were all Rivieras, known as Caballeros. Then, of course, Riviera became its own model in 1963 - but the Electra 225 Riviera was also still available that year.

Then let some air out! Just because they can take 120 psi, it doesn't mean you have to run them like that. The Monroes want 20 psi min, and that's a pretty stock feel. Monroe also has non-adjustable coil-overs (58567).

The guys over in the Riviera forum might be able to point you in the right direction...

Hi, Tobi! It looks like a '54 Super could have had either a Stromberg AAVB-267 or a Carter WCD or WCFB. If you come over to the Buick Post-War Forum, you are likely to get more expert advice in a much more timely manner. Cheers!

I think Mr. Herman may have just about everything you are looking for...

"3D printing" is also a pretty generic term as it can be applied to a variety of different processes. We've had metal airplane parts "3D printed" using a spray aluminum process... I agree that your best bet for finding something close is probably going to be a big truck stop. If you can't pull off a match, you may be down to making an all new set. As as far as making them blink goes, my biggest problem is that we've got 6 portholes and 8 cylinders. My best guess has been to use inductive triggers from each plug wire, and simply skip one on each side. That would result in a missed beat, which may actually be cooler at high speed, but I'm not completely sure. My next option would be a 6 cyl. distributor driven off the fan belt...

I'm looking for a rechromable pan for the hood ornament/scoop. Anything else I need is probably prohibitive to ship...

How about one more from November, 1922...

What slows me down is that I'm from Olds Town. I really dig the Oldsmobile and REO stuff, as well as other items of local interest. For instance, Lansing was the home to Motor Wheel. Not only did I play in Gier Park as a kid, my dad went to Gier Park Elementary.

I was doing some Google searching recently and stumbled across an amazing resource: The Crittenden Automotive Library. I know it's been shared on a couple AACA forums before, but I've pulled out some tidbits to give you a taste of what's over there. I could easily spend days or weeks going through this stuff and picking out Buick stuff, and I don't have that kind of time right now. One of my current favorites is Automobile Topics. There's about 12 volumes over there at about 1000 pages each as far as I can tell (I haven't downloaded all of them, yet). This is all public domain info that can be freely downloaded. Here's part of an 8 page Buick spread from 1921:

In lieu of poisons of pissing cats, perhaps a different Tractor Supply item is in order: http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/zareba-2-mile-ac-low-impedance-fence-charger?cm_vc=-10005 FWIW: I know the feeling...

Sorry, 'Tank. When I pilfered an image for that bootleg '55 data I published, I didn't realize that was you spread 'nekkid' across the hood...

This is a common enough issue that the interwebs have no shortage of 'cease & desist' form letters for this purpose. Just do a Google search and find one to your liking, if it comes to that.

Just trying to help you out, Mr. Earl. Yer picture gallery was looking a little thin down here. For the record, I'm an Opel owner by proxy. My J-bodies and my wife's Saturn are powered by Opel designed engines, but that's as close as I get right now. One of these days I might buy a GT, but I dig the Manta, too (I'd also take a turbo Calibra or Speedster, but they don't make it across the pond very often). These are pix I shot at a local car show about 5 years ago, and I haven't seen the car since. No, these aren't MY Opel, but when I buy one you will be the f̶i̶r̶s̶t̶ third to know.

Truth! I don't mind cutting up a mag for wall art, but I have bought some ads that had things on the back that were *almost* interesting enough to make me want to go out and buy an intact copy of the whole publication.

We thought the back end was a little soft when we've got 3 or 4 people in the back seat, but empty the car sits fine. We simply put in air shocks. Give it a little boost of air when the back seat & trunk are full, bleed it off when we get to the show. $70/pair, simpler than a spring change, easy to adjust. Monroe also makes coil-overs for the rear, but I like how easily the air shocks are adjusted.

Well, here's my vote: FITech You've got a Century, so you've already got a 4bbl manifold, right? Fab a simple adapter plate and you are rolling... I've been eyeballing aftermarket FI options for a long time for various applications and FITech has some of the coolest stuff for the money that I've seen. I've still got some applications where I lean to MegaSquirt, but for converting a carb'd V-8 to FI, I think FITech gives the most bang for the buck. The FITech is self learning and self contained for a clean, simple installation. If that's not enough, look at the way they inject in a swirl for superb atomization in this video. Pretty cool stuff. I have my doubts that you are going to see much advantage to a multi-carb setup over this, and besides, you are on borrowed time on your rear end so you want to be nice to it. Speaking of which, if you are looking for more pep out of the car, you should be shopping for a 3.9:1 rear out of a Synchromesh Special. You'll take a bit of an economy hit, but if you are talking about multi-carb setups, you've already written off economy anyway. Amiright?

Ike's name was edited out of the photo (look at the licence plate). There's some intent... Posting on the internet does NOT make it public domain. The creator must specifically dedicate his/her work to the public domain. That's why the wiki sites all have Creative Commons copyright notices. All materials created after March 1, 1989 must be assumed to be copyrighted unless specifically stated otherwise. Copyright notices have been optional since March 1, 1989, when the US joined the Berne Convention. Under the current Copyright Act, copyright protection is automatic. As soon as a work is “fixed in a tangible medium of expression” (written down, recorded, painted, etc.) it’s protected. No notice is required. (source) The question is not if Ike's rights have been violated, they very obviously have been. The question is what Ike wants to do about it. This article lists Ike's options, and as it says, if you take photographs, it's not a matter of if, but when your work will be stolen. It also includes links to Photo Attorney Carolyn E. Wright's page. There's so much good stuff there I can't link to it all, but the long and the short of it is that "A photograph is protected by copyright at the click of the shutter." Period. Now you know why so many sellers plaster their website or store name all over their eBay photos. That's not so you remember who's selling it, it's to keep people from stealing the seller's photos. Lifting other seller's photos got to be a very popular thing to do back in the days when eBay didn't host item photos. You had to upload your photos to a separate hosting site (or eventually PAY eBay by the image) and link back to them in your description. It was easier and cheaper just to link back to someone else's image than to upload your own.

Just found that I typed this but never hit the post button... Same way the pressure cap on your radiator keeps your water from boiling. Higher pressure = higher vapor point. We we do the same thing in airplanes. High altitude = low pressure, and mechanical fuel pumps don't pressurize vapors. At higher altitudes, you turn on an electric boot pump that's aft of the firewall (in a hopper tank or wing tank, where it's cooler). Providing positive pressure to the main pump prevents vaporizing, and if it does vaporize, the pressure from the aft pushes the vapor through. We also like return systems because it keeps the fuel moving and back to cooler places.

Quite. I've been doing photographic work professionally for over 25 years. It's my business to know. Watermarks and EXIF tags help prove where the images came from, but can be edited by anyone. The act of creating gives me rights that are mine until I sign them away.

Hey Speedo, what gives? The April issue just showed today, and someone dropped your column AGAIN!

I'm not trying to take away from anything your are doing, your dash swap simply made me think of this. Probably the only way to make a F*rd any cooler would have been to put a Buick engine and dash in it.

Technically, he is using your intellectual property for commercial gain. Just because you didn't send a copy to the Copyright Office, it doesn't mean you have no rights. Registration just makes it easier to prove it is yours, but it sounds like you've got proof of ownership covered. You could sue him, and you'd probably win, and likely never collect a fraction of what you spent going after him. Personally, I would send him a note requesting that he give you credit for the photo in this publication, or ask that he quits using it altogether. Chances are he has no idea who you are but if you provide reasonable proof that it's your photo, he will oblige in giving you credit. You could also buy a copy of his work, and reproduce & resell it on eBay at half-price, just to let him know how it feels. That would be my snarky last resort in case the guy wants to be a jerk.