Mpgp1999

That is very sad to hear. He was always very helpful and very informative. To this day I go back and reread his posts. Does anyone know were to send flowers?

The plugs are new champion w18 recommended by the latest DBC newsletter. The points look pitted. The condenser failed the light bulb test. I ordered a “new” condenser from romar. My carburetor was rebuilt by Vern barker I am confident that it is at least close to proper adjustment.

UPDATE I Finally road tested and it failed horribly. Under a load the car will not operate. First gear I did not notice anything. One I got in the road it would not go faster than 10 mph. I had to nurse it to get there. The coil was very hot. The car idled fine. I changed the coil and there was no difference. The car kept backfiring. I changed the condenser to a spare I had. No spark. I put the old one back. Spark for 10 seconds. To add insult to injury it began to pour. Currently The car will not charge. The car will not stop and the car will not start. The motor will turn over. I have exhausted every resource and all my knowledge I have come to a dead end. Hopefully you guys can guide me.

I have two starter switches. One with a diode and another original. I get voltage at the starter generator while the motor is running. The amo gauge stays at 4 Amps discharge steady. There is no increase if voltage at the battery when there is throttle. I tried stepping on the stater while the motor was running and there was no change on the amp meter nor battery voltage. Currently the original coil starter switch is installed. the diode (on the bench) tests nothing one way and about 2 Ohms the other.

I bought a bottle of Indian shellac gasket stuff. I will use it on one side and a light coat of oil on the other after the shellac has cured. Should I use shellac on the felts?

At o’reillys they sell champion w18. The proper long reach plug for 4 cylinder cars. As per the April 2020 dodge brothers news letter. They are about $7 each.

I got new felts. I was planning on soaking them in oil then installing them.

This is probably obvious for many old timers in this hobby but myself being 20 I am not sure what the proper edict for gaskets is. In short I am replacing the gasket for my oil pan. It leaks a lot. It appears to be made of rubberized cork? Or some felt/cardboard material? I am not entirely sure. I have often made gaskets out of gasket paper I.e. for the carburetor to block. And I have made them out of a cork roll I.e. on the reverse gear on the transmission. I that case I oiled the gasket so it can be removed easily. If I recall correctly I remember reading that was the proper way to do it from a very old manual. I also did the same for the copper head gasket. When I removed the head I was able to reuse the gasket. RTV some people swear by it others swear at it. I personally do not think there needs to be any rtv on a historic vehicle. back to the oil pan gasket. what is the best way to put it on?

The funny thing is there is a starter switch with a diode already installed. I was planning on swapping it out with an original coil one.

As a fun experiment I did a few years ago with my 1926 Dodge was use antique oil. I had found several cans of green quakerstate motor oil. I used them in my car for about 500 miles. I sent a sample to Blackstone labs. The oil tested around sae 30 and api rating sb. The car performed perfectly normal and very well in warmer weather. Oil pressure was good etc. the only down sides were harder to start in cooler weather. The car needed longer to warm up before I could move it. That 500 mile mark was about the maximum. The lab said the oil had very little life after 500 miles. If I continued to use this I would expect to remove the oil pan yearly or so to remove sludge and buildup. Currently I use non detergent oil rated sb and I use Lucus additive and a zddp additive. The antique can of oil contained about 600ppm of zinc and about 500ppm of phosphorus. food for thought.

I also bought my plugs from the Myers. I am pretty sure they are the same as yours. The top metal part unscrews. There is a threaded rod underneath. I was dumbfounded when I figured it out.

I have an idiot automatic battery charger. It charges at 1.5a. How would I test it. Also the spring looks new.

I have the starter button out. There is a coil and several contacts. Between the battery and indicator there is 67 ohms. The points are chalky white. I have an original owners manual. For some reason I have voltage between the battery and starter terminal. When I disconnect them the terminals show no connection. The same for the leads. But when connected to the switch there is continuity.

How do I service/check the cut out

If worse comes to worst I can always machine a new one.

Hello I am looking for a 1924 oil pan drain plug. when putting it back in the pan it snapped.

Update I cleaned and gaped the points and plugs. That seemed to help. Now it is much harder for it to backfire. But when it does pulling the choke a little stops it. The problem was probably dirty contacts, slight timing problem, improper mixture. I noticed the cam in the distributor has rotational play. About 15 degrees. Is that normal? new issue not charging. With key on the amp gauge shows about 8 amps discharge. At the battery there is no charge it is at 12v. At the generator it shows 13.5v under throttle. Any ideas. I’m pointing my finger at the starter switch. The two negative leads, from generator and battery, show voltage and 0 ohms. When I engage the starter it shows no voltage. Shouldn’t it be the other way around?

Hello on my 26 12v under heavy throttle the car backfires and afterfires. In the past I had an issue with a valve stuck open in the vacuum tank and raw fuel entering the motor bypassing the carburetor. But the car idles normally, so I do not believe this is the case. thanks

Update. On one wheel well I wire brushed it. Cleaned it with simple green and acetone. Used a rust encapsulator then spray painted over. The leaf springs were mostly cleaned then I will apply a layer of grease. I was thinking about using a 50/50 mix of oil and grease?

Hello I have a 1928 reo parts car for sale. It could also be a very nice restoration project. It is stored indoors. It is located in Sonoma California. If anyone is interested I can post photos and engine numbers.

Hello I am rebuilding a 1928 marmon 8cyl. I have no idea where to find parts. I’m looking for gaskets and anything that I should really change. I am also looking for bearings and or their numbers. I am also looking for diagrams. I believe this is from a model 68. Anything helps. I have never rebuilt an engine. Except a 6cly Buick in my auto class. I have lapped valves poured Babbitts and rebuilt other various engine components but this is my first start to finish full project. thanks

Not yet, I haven’t figured out what the two holes on top is.

For any one interested. I did what early mechanics would of done. I made new springs on the lathe. I used music wire. Then tied it around the flywheel pins.

That makes sense. From what I can tell. The metal was painted black. May have been covered with carpeting. If anyone has a top toe board I would be interested.

For anyone who reads this post and knows about the standard Stewart carburetor, there motor lags. The carburetor farts and pops. It is recently rebuilt. I recently rebuilt the vacuum tank because it was pouring raw fuel down the vacuum line.