Mpgp1999

I received a small placard. The medal pictured is now mounted on the radiator.

Made it to the show. Hershey is probably next.

I did. Force of habit

The wreaked one is getting a new front axle and is having parts plated. I’m almost finished with the tear down to frame. The one that has some not rust is working well. So I’m not touching it.

Believe it or not it’s nether. It’s a local car. It’s been sitting for a bit and the guy is getting too old to do the work himself.

My clutch pedal won’t release the plates. It is impossible to put it in or out of gear. The pedal does not travel much. I tried spraying the clutch pack with brake cleaner while the motor is running. I also tried oiling every component that moves on the pedal assembly. Brake pedal is extremely stiff as well.

I am trying to use as many parts from the original car. I am going to try to straighten my frame. I was able to find a collision repair book from the 20s. It states where to add heat, and where to cold work the metal. With the upcoming meets and shows I have been working on my other cars. This will be a winter project.

He does not have any.

For those wondering on my other dodge I pulled the motor and sent it to a machine shop to be milled and have valve seats put it. New guides etc… compression is 65 psi. I’m doing an off frame restoration with safety glass and seat belts. I just finished rebuilding the trans. This will take me a few years to complete. As I progress more I will post in a new topic.

I feel accomplished with this vehicle. I’ve taken something that was beyond the grave and put no parts or money into it and got it running and driving. I think that’s a testament to how things were built back then. Fear not I won’t be posting anymore about this vehicle so I won’t upset anyone by doing it the “wrong” way. Thank you to all who posted to this thread. I learned much from this thread.

I am looking for a gas cap for my 1925 dodge. It is not threaded.

I understand that. This will be a show car. Driven only to and from local shows. Or trailered. I have a 35 ford that I use very often. I put 5K on it since last year. The original intent was a parts car. It’s so original I couldn’t stand to not get her to run even if for one last time. I wanted a to challenge myself. I have put little to no money towards this. I finally broke down and got a head gasket. That’s why I have been doing things a different way. If this wax my other dodge I would have done things “proper” or different. Like using a machine shop sandblasting etc… I’d really love to drive this car and share it.

The engine blew a piece of head gasket out. It is leaking compression and water. I ordered a new gasket. It’s nice weather and I’m feeling better. I want to drive her. I want to put some miles on her to work out any bugs before the meet.

I have been using this for years in transmissions requiring 1500w. https://buysinopec.com/collections/all/products/ep-lithium-grease-extreme-pressure-grease-ep000-5-gallon-pail

I have a leak in the radiator. I need to solder it up. The exhaust is plugged I am trying to remove the exhaust flange nut. I used some heat are penetrating oil. No luck. At the moment I am laid up in bed.

Check compression in the cylinders and report back. Are you using the original coil? Check your plug wires and distributor cap for continuity. Take some photos.

I will as soon as I get over this pneumonia.

I will be bringing her to this year’s Dodge Brothers meet.

She runs and drives!

When I drained the oil, it was used in dirty, but still tacky. I filled the crankcase to the brim with kerosene, and turned it over with the crank. Then I primed everything with the oil until I was able to see pressure on the gauge.

The rotor, and the distributor is very tight even with the locking nut removed.

She finally starts and runs under her on power. However, she only runs on wide-open, throttle and retarded spark.

No sound but she doesn’t sound good yet.

Not only is there a rats nest in the muffler it also has tons of rust in the entire exhaust. I got the motor to run without the starter but low rpm’s. I think the valves are opening too soon. I adjusted them to .008” cold. I’m not able to adjust the rotor. It is tight with out the locking nut.