Randiego

Gents, I have been away for a while and I want to thank you for all your responses. I was trying to keep my valve "authentic" with the look. I never thought that the local auto parts stores would have the valve as they were not used after the 50's. Most of the items in the auto parts stores these days are Chinese junk. The metal is far inferior to what we had available to us just a few short years ago. I will check with Restoration Parts as it is 20 minutes from my location and a few others. I, like Don M, want to keep the authentic look. Plus the valve body of his looks to be bronze. It just wouldn't do to put a cad plated housing with a "T" valve handle. Those did not exist back in the day. I will search in earnest and report back who has the correct valve. Thank you all for your input. Randy

Gary, Seems that it is the "hurry up and wait" game regarding getting the proper parts and materials in the restoration game. I have been waiting for over two and a half months to get my radiator for my 36 Pontiac. We are down to two or three manufacturers of radiators here stateside. All the new radiators are aluminum/plastic throw away models. Made in China, Mexico or ? ? My local radiator guy said that he could get the core in a week. Well, seems that the old guys that use to build the "honeycomb" cores are few and far in between. And to top it all off, the Pontiac radiators (and who knows which others) have a 45 degree bevel at the top of the core. My original radiator is a two row. The straight eight's all had three rows. I am having one made for my fellow Pontiac member back in Minnesota. His is an 8. His local source wanted $4,800.00 for a radiator. And my friend had the old radiator! I told him to send it to me here in San Diego. My guy is building two of them for $900.00. That is $450.00 each ! ! New 3 row cores and the tanks and support housings and fittings installed ! But they will not be the "honeycomb" style. These new guys do not have the experience to do that type of core. I am sure that you all have a source for good radiator work back East. The reason for my reply; My Plymouth and Pontiac both have the water shut off VALVE (copper tipped bolt that turns & seats in a conical seat) that is basically a fitting that screws into the top of the head or, in some cases, the block. The seat in the housing and bolt on both of my cars are corroded beyond repair. Fashioning a new one on my lathe is not an easy proposition. The bolt is not a problem but fabricating a new fitting (with the copper internal conical seat) that screws into the block is out of my wheelhouse. I have been looking around and have not found one yet. Seems that all the manufacturers used this shut off valve. So...........the company that made them for all the manufacturers back then is probably gone. Does any of you Buick guys have a source for this shut off valve? It probably is the same for all the 30's cars. Your help with this quest will be appreciated. Randy L Your

Gary, The installation looks great. Very professional for an amateur. One thing really p*&&*s me off is the people that are "supplying" restoration parts to our hobby. They think that they can produce inferior parts and have us happy with their junk. If I were making a replacement door lock button, I would have the decency to at least make it look like the one that it is replacing. AND I would have it pre threaded so that it would not crack when the customer is putting it on. Most of them are going to Asia to get the parts made. "Cheaper" is the main quotient here. And they have the balls to offer their junk to the serious restorer looking for a good product. I would not mind paying a few dollars more for a replacement part if it looked the same and would function as the original did. I am so disappointed with so many products that I was told that they would be like the original only to find when I received them, they were any thing but. I send them back and end up restoring or making my parts as best as I can vs. using their Chinese crap. On occasion, you can find someone who really cares about our hobby and will put out a good replacement part. Recently, I had a gentleman restore my gas tank sending unit. I talked to him and he told me to send me the dash gauge along with the tank unit. He restored my sending unit and calibrated my gauge, ensuring me that when I installed the sending unit, I would get an accurate reading for the amount of gas that was in the tank. He is Wolfe Engineering if you, or any of the forum members in the future, need to know a company that does outstanding work and will deliver on what they say. As far as the guys out there proclaiming to be suppliers of "restoration parts", most are selling sub standard crap. I have had better luck on Ebay buying original parts from estate sales than I have had with "catalogs" from suppliers. Very disappointing. Your Buick looks better than the day it was delivered to the dealer back in 37. A testament to your planning, diligence, and artful craftsmanship. Not much left to do on your "list", eh? Great work, Gary. Randy

Gary, I can't say that a professional upholstery shop could have done a better job than you have. You have been so meticulous with this restoration, fitting the headliner, door panels, welting and the interior trim moldings with the seams all in alignment is as professional as it gets. Great job. When do they deliver the seat upholstery or do you already have them? Can't wait to see you do the seats. Randy

Roger, Note how we are all excited about your jack. The work to do the trunk crest with the correct decal in the background was probably a lot more intricate and time consuming than planning and fabricating the jack. But any of us who have helped our dad in changing a tire on one of the 50's model GM cars can attest to how heavy they were and how important it was to get the jack in the correct position. On my dad's 56 Buick Special station wagon, he was always having the tires checked at the local service station before we went on any of our outings. Still , fate would sometimes deal us with a blow out and we would limp to the side of the hi way where my older brother and I would assist my dad in changing the tire. Mind you, it was not often but when it did happen, it was an event. Little things like chocking the tire, breaking the lug nuts loose before jacking up the car, wrestling the spare out from the compartment and doing the proper torquing of the lug nuts was all part of the lesson that was handed down by my father to me and my brother. And not to be out done, mom standing there with a wet and dry towel to clean our hands when we were done. Lest we get our clothes and the car dirty. Life in the 50's. Uncomplicated and much simpler. Today, the new cars don't even come with a spare or jack ! ! Boy how we have evolved. Randy

Roger, A while back I was just wondering about the jack. And here you have constructed one...........THAT WORKS ! ! But like Keiser's wife's comments; OF COURSE IT WORKS ! WHY WOULDN'T IT?. She said it all. If you have functioning window switches, power seats, functioning emergency brake, why wouldn't a functioning jack work? For me, it looks pretty straight forward to make. Much less complicated than a window regulator or an E brake assembly. Like the rest of the followers of your thread, we have practically run out of descriptives to comment on with the next item that you fabricate or a new problem that arises and how you overcome it. Just Amazing. Like the previous comments. It will be a bitter/sweet day when the masterpiece is completed. On that day, there will be a void in the universe ! NO ROGER Z to tune into. You really should think about another model to do.............................................. :-) (I know that it is a selfish wish but with the demise of everything else in this world, your thread is something that we look forward to.......and enjoy). Randy

Gary, I don't know if a professional upholstery shop could have done as nice a job as what you have done here. Unless they took the car apart and had the experience in putting it back together, it would not have been as nice. Since you are not a "shop" you have the luxury of taking your time, test fitting and checking, fitting and checking until all is lined up correctly. The results are absolutely stunning. Plus you have the Forum members to council you on questions that may be puzzling you with the small items that you are not certain of. Your installation is truly a work of art. And the proof is in the pudding, so to speak. I cannot imagine what you would have had to pay to have this job done by a high end upholstery shop, but it would have been a very large expense in your restoration. And it probably would not have been done as nicely as your job. Who knows what corners they may have "cut" to get the job done? You have not missed a trick with this. I am in question about the clearance of your door handle. Does the passenger side have the same issue? And do the pictures show how much clearance there was originally? If the clearance was there, then it has to be the mounting of the stem? If that checks out, then there has to be an issue with the panel and the fabric not seating against the frame properly? We are sure that you will figure it out. You are too finite of an individual to let that get past you. I am sure that it is whirling about in your head and that there is an answer to the mystery. All I can say is.......WOW. You have done such a fantastic job with the upholstery. Can't wait to see the seats being done and then installed. That will be the end of the job? Or are there any other items left to do? Randy

Thanks Guys. I will contact Bob's to see if they have one that will work. Randy

OOPS, I just read Dave's reply. Jute backed rubber front floor mat was standard. Seems all the 30's cars were with front rubber floor mats. Randy

Gentlemen, Thank you for your tips on my floor mat dilemma. I will contact Bob"s Memorabilia (I have procured the gearshift boot in brown from him. The Pontiac gearshift boot is the same as the Buick/Chevy/Olds boot and it was available in brown (along with black). I will chat with them regarding the floor mat. Again, did the Buick come with a rubber floor mat in the front? Or was it "upscale" with a carpeted front area? Randy

Roger, Great looking spare cover. One question. Are you going to make the jack and handle and label for the inside of the trunk lid? I was wondering (on the 1:1 Continental) where they had the jack and handle strapped inside the trunk? Was in in the fender pocket on the side or up on the back shelf? Anyway, I am sure that you have been thinking about that issue. The model has so many features, I did not know if the jack and handle were on your "radar". Also, where was the trunk light mounted? On the trunk lid or on the side? Or did they have one? Randy

Gents, Since this is a little used site, I was wondering if there was another site for the "Flatheads" (other than the POCI Early Times Division) that one can go to for help in parts and service for the 1930s Pontiacs? You show a lot of 40-50s cars and with little use of this site, it would be helpful if one could find another source for help. Randy

Gary and 1930's Buick owners, Originally, did the Buick's come with a carpeted front floor mat? Or were they a rubber, embossed (at the accelerator pedal and clutch/brake) area below the pedals? The Chevy, Pontiac Olds all seem to have the rubber floor mat in the drivers compartment. If it did come with the rubber, do you have a rubber mat available to you, the Buick owners? Originally, they were either black or in my case, brown. Brown pedals, gearshift knob, steering wheel, transmission boot, emergency brake boot. And the sad point. No one makes the rubber mat for the mid 30's GM cars. (at least for Pontiac). Since there are a limited number of Pontiacs out there, the demand for the items are (almost?) non existent. I was told by the P.O.I.C. that there are around 100 of the coupes left in the world. Hence my desire to restore one. But there are voids in the parts hunt that make it very difficult to complete the restoration. The interior kit is one. The brown floor mat is the other. I guess that I could do as you have done here, Gary and make a carpet that can be installed in the front floor. I have a later rubber mat that someone makes (for the later models that he says that will fit) but it is not the brown that was as the original. It is almost translucent and a lighter caramel brown. Being in California (and I probably won't enter the car for judging) and lacking in inclement weather, I can take some liberties to make the car "nicer" with a floor that is carpeted. I am leaning towards the wool carpet as is used in the Jaguar (very nice and a bit more plush than the LBB carpet). If any one else has a source or suggestions, I will be very receptive to hearing from you on this subject. One thing; once all the old "barn finds" are restored, I wonder if there will be any source for after market products if the demand dwindles? It seems to be harder to find parts today than it was just 8 years ago. Randy

Gary, You're back ! ! G lad that your kit is coming soon. Finally, you will be able to finish the beautiful Buick and drive it before the cold weather is upon you. All you guys are getting your interior kits. LBB gave me sad news. They do not make a kit for my 36 Pontiac Coupe. I will have to order the fabric and reference pictures of other cars and hopefully, I will get it right. Funny how LBB makes most cars interior kits but they do not have Pontiac kits (at least for the 36 models). They have Chevrolet but not Pontiac. Go figure. Guess they do not have enough demand for the Pontiacs? I even offered the headliner, seat and door panels to LBB for a pattern for my and future kits. No dice. I wanted to do my interior myself but without the pre made kits, it leaves me relying on the upholstery shop. And face it, the interior is just as important as the rest of the car. There are no shortcuts to a good looking finish. Randy

Roger, Seat belts? They did not even come onto the scene till the sixties. And then they were an afterthought. For years we were riding around in our cars unfettered (and un strapped), sliding across the seat to see something that one of our siblings saw on their side of the car. Of course, we had to see it too. My little sister use to stand up between my mom and dad in the front seat. Oh the horrors of un checked safety (or lack of it) back in the 50's. I swear, if I had the picture of the Mark II blown up, one could swear that that was a full sized automobile. Your attention to every little detail just amazes me. It is so accurate in every sense (that we can see). How you got the body bucks so accurate is mind boggling. Now we know why it has taken so much time. Looking at the end results is why. Perfection. It is beautiful, Roger. Each installment that you do is what we look forward to. Randy

Roger, The moment has arrived. Mating the chassis to the body is monumental as all the small fittings, linkages, wires and cables are to be connected. I just hope that it goes smoothly as all your previous work has been met with adjustments, modifications, eliminations, etc., etc. We have been watching you bring this amazing model along and it is something that we all look forward to every time we log on to the site. All the progress is culminating to this point. Where the model becomes one element. It is a beautiful model. Great work Roger.

What Roger? No video crew at your front door to do a video of you sweating and contorting with the mating of the body to the chassis? What fun is that? JUST KIDDING. How you are keeping all of the assembly components in order and working as you do the assembly is, as always, boggling ! We all hope that all goes well with the assembly of the electrical. I hope that "Murphy's Law" is not present as you do this very intricate, complicated task. What size batteries are you going to use for operation of the electrical? Two "D" batteries or ? I am guessing that the box holding the batteries will be finished as a large battery. I could use you here in wiring my engine test stand as the Pontiac wiring schematic is for an engine IN the car. It isn't that complicated but........nothing like an engineer to sort out the particulars. For example, I am using an ammeter vs. the "gen light" that is in my instrument panel. I am assuming that I have to wire it into the generator outlet lead to pick up what the generator is producing? Being DC, it is not that complicated and I will figure it out. Electrical is not my strong suit. But the early automotive electrical is much easier than what is presented today in these modern marvels. I also lucked out. One of our Pontiac club members came across my missing link. I finally landed my hands on a 1936 Harrison Radiator that is correct for my car. It is now being re cored and I should have it back next week so I can install it on my test stand, hook up the hoses, fill the cooling system and get ready for my engine start. I hope that I can post a video of the engine start up and running. I spent a lot of time building this engine stand but as I said in my previous post, it is better to run the engine in before it is installed. Do you have a lot of members in the European car groups that come to you for component work on their cars? Seems that you do a lot of Hydramatic transmission rebuilds. And I bet when you are done with them, they are.......................................perfect. Randy

Roger, Great, great work, Roger. If one did not see the beginning of this saga, they would not have a clue as to how this Continental came to be. As all have attested, this stage of the model is inspiring to see all of those components that we saw you make from the beginning, coming together, is like the puzzle. You start with the border, advancing to assembling the different sections of the picture and before you know it, the last piece of the puzzle is put in place. To think that the linkage will be attached to the body is mind boggling. Just to make this model with all the components like the 1:1 car and then to ATTACH them where one cannot even get a tool between the firewall and the engine is beyond amazement. We would like a video of you doing the attachment, (maybe not the sound with all the cursing going on :-) ) seeing how you accomplish that task. How the small rods and cable linkages attach is a wonder. Take plenty of pictures at this stage. Each will tell a story of a thousand words. Baffling ! ! That day is coming when the car will be complete. From here on in, I will be watching raptly for every post, seeing what has been assembled next. Randy

Roger, No one is going to "spot" the error with the trunk emblem. Even a Ford employee of the day would miss that due to the fact that the whole car - - - er- - - model has so much detail. You would have to be the designer on the original Continental to catch that mistake. It is such a small error in the whole scope of this fine model. Do not loose any sleep over it as it will go unnoticed to the admiring eye. Randy P.S. I have the generator and the starter on my bench overhauling them. after cleaning them up, I am replacing the bushing in the front and the ball bearing in the rear of the generator shaft. I have chucked the armature in my lathe and turned down the commutator and am replacing the brushes. That will make the generator new again. Plus paint. Now on to the starter. Same procedure. Those are much easier than the tasks that you have at hand. Pictures are to come in the near future.

Roger, I hope that France's weather was not too hot for you. We are experiencing hot, torrid, humid weather pushing up from the South and it is miserable. And our summer is now just starting. ? Plagued with sinus issues it makes for a very uncomfortable time for me. On to better topics. Roger who did you have make your decals? Was that a local company? Did you have to supply them with the pictures of the actual decals or do they have the items in their data base? I have friends who actually make their own on their ink jet printers but I have not pursued that function on my own. They look crisp and will make the model really "pop". Hopefully, after the fitting of the doors, you will not have too many more issues that will be difficult. It is a good time when we log onto the site and see some more progress being made on the Continental. Twice a year, our city has a day where you can recycle old electronic items without cost. I just disposed of a computer tower that had some micro wire in it. Had I known that you could use some of the wire, I would have sent it to you. I am sure that you have sources for the smaller wire. It was a waste to get rid of the tower without harvesting the micro wire. I have a friend who works on computers and he has all kinds of micro wire laying around. Let me know of the gauge of wire that you are looking for and I will go by his home and get some for you. Computer wire is the best for electrical but I am sure that you have other sources too. Just a thought. Roger, since you are a master not only with 1:12 scale, but you have years of experience with 1:1 restorations. I will share with you (and the forum members) my journey with my restoration project. I just got my 1936 Pontiac 6 cyl. engine back from the machine shop. It was a TREK tracking down all the parts that I needed for the engine but finally we got them all. Since I will not be doing the body and chassis for a time, I have built a test stand. This way I can get the engine running and break it in. Nothing worse than to put the engine in the car just to find out that there may be an issue and it has to come out again. At my age, I only want to do that ONCE ! Plus, I can get it back to the machine shop for any issues that may arise. I don't foresee any but you never know. Better to be safe than sorry later. When we are younger, we can crawl around and under a car without the advancing aches and pains that our bodies present us at the end of the day. I do what I can do in a day and have to stop knowing that if I don't, I will be miserably sore the next day. No more 18 hour days working bent over or under a car. I will post some pics of the engine on the test stand when I get all of the components attached. It looks pretty damn good if I say so myself. I have attached a pic of the engine back from the machinist. I am making parts that are not available, like the clutch fork boot. As time goes on, parts are harder and harder to find. I am fortunate to have friends that own 36 Pontiacs and have been sourcing parts for years. They have helped me in my quest. Randy

Roger, The pictures here are LARGER than the actual door. It is amazing that you got all that to fit, and function in such a small package! IT is strange that when you originally fabricated the windows and the motor drives, they all worked. Now putting it together, issues pop up that were not there several months ago. It must be irritating to say the least when all does not go as planed. What makes the story so good is that you figure out and fix the issue. I hope that the other door is not as problematic as this one was. Every day is a new chapter. Randy

Gary, Any word from Le Baron Bonney about the replacement kit yet? We hope that it won't be too long as summer is here. You should be cruzin now and enjoying the Buick. I can't wait to see you back at it as your thread is one of my favorites. Randy

In South Escondido (San Diego County), there is a company that specializes in early Brass and pre 30's Automobile restorations. They are exceptional in all phases of restoration, including having the correct period wiring for the early cars. They are a source for Packard style wiring and the cloth covered wiring for early restorations. You can reach them at (760) 331-5235 And at their web site; Restorationstuff.com They are a husband and wife team who are very helpful and have the products.

Roger, You are not kidding about the host of problems that pop up once you go to assembling the different elements of the model. Getting the motors to work against the resistance and altering the voltage, that is beyond me. I would have given up on power windows at that point. But you are a tenacious craftsman and can always find a solution to the problem in front of you. That says volumes about your abilities. And, as they say, "separates the wheat from the chaff". We are seeing this Continental coming together right in front of our eyes. Just amazing. Randy

JHM, I am in San Diego Area and there is a Carb rebuilder that is the best. He got me a Carter Unit as is illustrated above with a brand new (old stock) Carter element for inside of the fuel bowl. No screen to let little particulate matter into your carburetor and I can visually see the condition of the filter media without having to drop the bowl. With our crap gas today, it is important to keep the fuel system clean and if you do not drive often, treat the gas with Seafoam or other fuel stabilizers. I got the Carter unit from him. Not a knock off but a genuine Carter fuel bowl separator unit with a Carter media filter that fits inside of the bowl. He rebuilt my 36 Pontiac carb and my 36 Plymouth carb. He serves the Antique Car market for carbs and fuel injection units of the early Chevys. If it is fuel delivery to the engine, he is the guy. He does work for clients all over the US. The gentleman's name is Stan. His shop is San Diego Carburetor and he knows his s&#*. If it is a carb or fuel system problem, he is the guy. His address and phone number; Stan Sawyer San DIego Carburetor 6622 University Ave. San Diego, CA 92115 (619) 265-2400 Hope this helps. Randy