Randiego

And now that your naked eye is corrected, I am sure that the caster, camber and toe in will be.........................EXACT. (as is the rest of the model).

Nice, Roger. The A arm and headliner look great !

HUZZA HUZZA ! ! ! No way a modern car can touch the beauty of the 30's cars. Sleek design and the art of the automobile has, in my estimation, diminished to these plastic "blobs" flying down the freeways. The Buick that you have restored is a piece of the automotive art from an era long gone. When you drive this fine car, you will be transported back to an era where "planned obsolescence" was not in the vocabulary of the automotive manufacturers. The other nice factor here, Gary, is that this car is restored far nicer than when it came off of the assembly line and will last many lifetimes due to your care and diligence. Involving your family in it's restoration will bond all to the Buick. Another neat factor is that you are young enough to really enjoy this car and will have many, many years of enjoyment before your driving days are over. By the time most of us out here are in the financial position to do a restoration, we have much less a "window of time" to enjoy the fruits of our labor. We all await the interior and the rest of the car to be finished. It will be nice to see a video of you driving the Buick on a nice spring day down some nice country lane. It will be a bitter sweet day for us to know that there won't be any more postings regarding the Buick. but...................We await another car to grace your garage for the next project. :-) When you do show it it would be nice to see the Buick in the show setting and you getting your first award(s) for your fine work. Randy

Gary, 79 degree day in FEBRUARY ? ? ! And we are freezing our keesters off out here in "Sunny So. Cal". Woke up this morning with frost on my windshield. Got down to 30 this morning and it won't be warmer than 57 today. Slows everything down for us out here. Wimps eh?

Gary, FYI, I was watching an "Antique Roadshow" that they taped in St. Louis. In the intro, lo and behold, there is a 37 Buick 2 Dr. black sedan sitting on the curb. Just like yours. Were you aware of this? lt isn't a lot of air time but it is nice to see the car that you are restoring in a notable place. You can google the show and see it in the opening shots. Randy

Roger, That shot of the Toronado.......Unless you look closely at the upholstery, there is NO Clue that this is a 1:12 model. The dash, steering wheel, console is so realistic. I can just imagine how the Continental will look when finished. Glad that you got your eye tended to. It is great to see clearly. We take that for granted until we don't have that ability any longer. My mom got her cataracts removed when she was 75. THREW HER GLASSES AWAY ! ! Modern Medicine. Randy

Gary, I have been shooting Canon since my brother came back from Japan in the early 70's with his FTB SLR. So I went out and bought one. Later, I got an AE-1 and another FTB (from a guy getting a divorce). I still have them although they are relegated to the shelf. My first digital was a Kodak (poor quality when they first came out) and then an Olympus. Good camera, also stolen. My luck with cameras, eh? I got a Rebel XTI in early 2006 and have been using it with the Canon 70/140 zoom lens. I am very comfortable with it but you have given me pause as to what to get this time. Since I had my whole camera kit (with lenses and cards) stolen in December, I am settling with the insurance company now and am going to replace the camera. I will go to Costco and look at the Nikon. When I purchased the Canon, I bought it through Buydig.com there in your neck of the woods (NYC) The price with the lens was less than the body at the local camera shop. They are about the least expensive around. Just thought that I would pass than along. Plus with Buydig.com (stands for buy digital), the shipping is free and there is no tax as I am out of state. Plus you can get a 5 year warranty for minimal investment (against drops, rain, cracked lenses but not theft). I have to hand it to the Nikon though. Really crisp and clear pics. Now you have thrown a wrench into the gears. Randy

Gary, I don't know if you mentioned what kind of camera you have been using for the photos in your thread. It is outstanding and since I have to replace my Canon (stolen) I would like to know which camera or cameras you have been using. The pictures are crisp and clear from a distance and up close. Of course, that is half the battle as the other half is the operator. But seeing a lot of threads with pictures, yours is top shelf. Randy

Roger, Look into SURGICAL Cable that is used by Orthopedic Surgeons. My father, an orthopedic surgeon, did operations that required very small cable. I later used it on some of my model making. It is strong but very pliant. I am sure that you have a lot of sources for materials and you may have researched this type of cable. As a matter of fact, if I recall, it was made in Switzerland. Now it may be made in many different countries. It came on a spool in different MM thicknesses. If you know a surgeon in your area, I am sure that he (or she) can shed some light on the type of cable I am talking about. Just a thought. Randy

Roger, Your rear end assembly is just like the "real deal". Right down to the emergency brake cable. Making it a "functioning" cable which can be (if the wire isn't too stiff) just goes over the edge ! I am imagining stepping on the E brake pedal and the cable is pulled. Just toooooooooooo much! Amazing. Everything on this model is just like the 1:1 car, only in miniature, with all of the detail. Some day, this car, the Avanit and the Toronado need to go into a museum where all can see these masterpieces. Unless an individual were following this thread, there would be no comprehension of how this model came to be. SO MUCH DETAIL and effort to produce the parts. Body men at paint and body shops have a hard enough time doing 1:1 cars, forming and shaping fenders, hoods, rocker and quarter panels and other parts, but doing it in 1:12 is absolutely an amazement that really is a loftier work of art. Roger, what planet are you on loan from? Because this work is truly "out of this world". Randy

Oh, And the millennials imbibe a much different "concoction" that we did in our day. A case of beer or a bottle of Jack usually got the necessary help to give a hand when it was needed. Today, these youngsters imbibe all sorts of.........................spirits. The oddest guy I knew in my day (back in the 70's) , who incidentally had the most beautiful car collection (in St. Louis) starting with his fathers 32 Pierce 2dr Roadster, the family Cadillac limousine, His IMPECCABLE 57 Tbird (100 point car that he restored himself) for a few, drank Cutty and.......milk! He said that the milk kept his stomach from being upset. What ever works. These days my drink of choice is coffee and cold bottled water with a Johnny Walker (Black Label) over ice... on occasion. Southern California has the worst water in the US. Alkaline and cruddy tasting. Hence we started the bottled water craze that is world wide now. In your area, Gary, we are told that the Catskills provide NY and surrounding areas with the best water in the world.........right out of the tap. Luck you. Randy

Gary, AH HAAAAA ! ! ! Now we know one of the reasons that your shop stays so clean. You do all of the buffing and grungy work out in.................................THE SHED ! Now that explains why your garage is so clean. Anyone using a buffing wheel to clean the rust and grunge off of a part will know how much crap and residue ends up on the floor or on the wall (if you don't have a shielded wire wheel). When I buff off corroded parts (if I don't put them in the blast cabinet), I move my wire wheel out onto the drive way to keep that junk out of my shop. Flinging the residue will be where it is easy to clean up instead of behind the benches, wall racks, etc.. etc. It is nice to see your "step by step" methods of your restoration. This could be a book on how to do a restoration........CORRECTLY ! ! One thing that is coming to your aid.....fairer weather! Just a short time from now, it won't be cold any longer and that will really give a boost to the restoration time as it won't be so cold for working in the garage or when you need to do something outside on the drive. Time moves fast when you are busy. Awaiting your next post. Randy

Roger, Interesting that tin can be applied at home. Is it an electrostatic application or is it just a "bath" that applies tin via immersion? Are you using "clips" to hold the lines to the frame? If so, are they like the factory clips? Randy

Oh, and I forgot my email address; randy@americanarbortreeservice.com Thanks Randy

Hi all,. I am looking for single or dual side mount assemblies for my 1936 Plymouth P2 Touring Sedan. This involves the fender, side mount bracket (and hardware) and the wheel/tire cover and any thing else that is needed to complete the installation. I know that this is a tall order but hopefully, someone out there may have these items and or knows someone who will be willing to part with them. If you have these items or know of someone who does, please contact me. I would like to add this feature to my car. Thanks, Randy Lockett (760) 754-3166 Office (760) 533-7540 Cell

Gary, Quit "beating" yourself up for your penchant for detail. Labeling and bagging the parts so that they go back in just as they came out will give you the fit and finish that MIGHT be there if you switch the parts around. The fact that your car is back in one piece (almost), looks fantastic and runs is testament to your standards. How many times that an individual has taken something apart, bags it and a year later are scratching their heads. Not only does the composed individual label, catalog and mark the part (up down, left or right) but also adds photos for complete documentation. This prevents the puzzle from having missing pieces or worst yet............"Now how the HELL did this part fit in here????" Add to that a time lapse of a year (or so) and then the picture really gets fuzzy. At a younger age, with a lot of energy and little patience, did I take something apart only to find out the hard way about 1. photo documentation 2. marking the part(s) and marking the bag 3. and where applicable, re assembly in reverse order of the disassembly. You have that in spades plus one; You are neat and keep your work area(s) clean and orderly. That says volumes about you Gary. After logging onto your thread, I bet a lot of followers have gone out to their garages and work areas, looked in dismay at their project and have started cleaning up their messes and putting things away. I know I have. I am striving to keep my work areas clean and free of the clutter that so plagues a lot of us. SO NO, you do not need a mental examination. Being neat and orderly is an asset. We should all be so organized and methodical in our pursuit in our restoration projects. You are "leading by example" and your kids are getting the best lessons in life from your work ethic and methods. Randy

Beautiful work, Roger The detailing is.......................endless. And most goes unseen! Randy

Roger, Just got out of the Surgery Center here in La Jolla CA yesterday. I had my right shoulder "overhauled" He removed a large bone spur and re attached torn ligaments to the rotator cuff. It should be a painful recovery but ......I am pain free ! My surgeon pioneered (at a much younger age) the arthroscopic surgery procedure back in the late 80's. He, like you and me, is grey haired and "seasoned" That is why they call it a "Medical Practice" Always practicing. :-) 24 hours later, I am typing. I have a shoulder brace on but my hands are free for typing and use. I won't be lifting my arm for a while but when I recover, I will have my arm back as good as new. Modern Medicine. Voila. The rear axle bumpers look great! Roger, you don't miss any detail. The steady progress that you are making on the Continental is something that I look forward to every time I log on to AACA. Randy

Gary, the hood and trunk look awesome. And the lights illuminate the rear and front with that 30's charm. Bob's a BRAVE Man. No hood. No gloves. I know it is just being tacked but he must have very tough skin seasoned with many hot sparks flying from the gun. A seasoned pro. I have just finished rotator cuff surgery on my right shoulder. My surgeon pioneered the arthroscopic surgery here in San Diego. He is a very seasoned pro. Something about grey hair that gives the patient confidence. Guess that is why they call it a Medical Practice. Always practicing. HE did not need to "fillet" me open. Just two little incisions, removed a large bone spur that was cutting into the bursa (causing me so much pain) and suturing up the torn rotator cuff ligaments. When I came to and the pain meds wore off.......NO PAIN. This guy is good. (Like Bob and you). The anesthesiologist used a block and that let me recover quickly. Look I am typing (albeit with a sling on my arm) one day after surgery ! ! ! NO Hydrocodone needed. Modern medicine is great. His restoration work needs to be posted here. :-) Now, when the brace is off my arm, I will change the oil in my transmission. Couldn't find anyone with the Texaco product that you use in your cars, and I do not need 5 gallons so I will use the Sta Lube 140. Should be ok. We will see and I will let you know how it works out. If they built the Buicks back in the day, like you are building yours, they would not need to be restored. They would last for a hell of a long time in great shape. A testament to your work. Randy

Guys, A lot of response to my inquiry. After talking to two other Plymouth owners here in San DIego area and one in San Clemente, they told me that the new oils/greases are not as thick as the lubricants of yesteryear. They all use DIFFERENT products. I picked up two quarts of Sta-Lube Hypoid SAE 140 Gear Oil. It is an API/GL-4. Product part no. SL24228. Sta Lube is owned by CRC Industries out of Westminster, PA. Not as thick as what Gary L uses in his Model T and the 37 Buick but I was told that it will give excellent results. Worth a shot. So I will drain my transmission tomorrow and install the Sta-Lube. I will report back with the results. Hopefully, it will do the trick. We will see. Randy

Gary, I am having a heck of a time finding the correct oil for my 36 Plymouth transmission. I had my buddy (who owns a transmission shop) go through it. Bearings were fine, but the synchro hub was worn out. I got a nos hub and he re sealed the transmission. Believe me, Chrysler Corp's transmission design, along with linkages and emergency brake hub is a departure from the simplicity of GM and Ford. Chrysler designed the synchros as a "hub" not using individual rings. As you may know, synchros are basically a "brake" which slows the gear so that it may mesh with the next gear during the gear change. The new oils are no where near as thick as what was specked in the thirties. When I shift, I have to allow the engine to drop in rpms and "gingerly" shift" so that I don't get the grinding of the gears. And forget downshifting. I have to do that at a stop. One of the Plymouth owners on my request said that you had used a specific product in your transmission. I went back to your description of what you did to your transmission. Other than painting it, there was no mention of the gear oil that you used. I am trying to find the heaviest oil (preferably 140 wt.) as So Cal never goes below 55 to 60 degrees (in the winter during the day) with most weather in the mid 70's to 80's. In the summer, we do get up in the 90's for short spells, hence the need for a heavy oil. The problem is that my local auto parts store only has 90 weight oil (straight viscosity) and it is ( as I was told) compatible with brass/bronze components in the transmission. But one of the guys on the Plymouth site told me that 90 weight oil in today's oils is not the same as what was produced back in the thirties. Can you or any of your peers let me know if they have a specific product that they can recommend for my transmission? Most of the transmissions back in the thirties used the same oils, which are non existent out here at my local supply houses. If I get the proper brand, I may be able to order it on line from a supplier back there. Your help will be appreciated. Respectfully, Randy

Roger, Wow. We are getting close to seeing the car painted! It won't be too long before the car is assembled and all the elements are applied, bringing your years of toil to fruition. Exciting times in the Continental's construction. Randy

Again, Thanks to all. I have a local boat shop owner who is my friend and expert on outdrives. I will ask him what product that is available for my needs. To Plym 33; I recall talking to you back when I removed the transmission last year. I did not note the exact location(s) of the linkages and different apparatus that goes onto and around a Plymouth transmission. Invincible I wasn't ! You were kind enough to help me with that. As far as venturing South, there are some nice places down here to grab a cup of coffee and a nice lunch if you want to drive down here. We can meet up and create a "stir" with our old Plymouths. I use to live in San Clemente back in the early 80's. I lived on Capistrano Lane (a block up from the pier) and there are a nice array of restaurants there too. I use to do oyster shooters at the Fisherman on a regular basis. Send me an email and we can discuss meeting and grabbing a bite. I can also drive up to San Clemente too., randy@americanarbortreeservice.com To the rest of you, again, thank you. I will post which product that I find works best and gets rid of the annoying "grinding" of the gears. And Plym33 outlined the fact that we do not have weather below 55-60 degrees (during the day) ANY time. Unlike what is going on back East with sub zero weather. And in the summer, we generally hover around 75 to 80 degrees with some spells getting up in the 90s. So a thicker lubricant is called for. Randy

Bloo, Thank you for your reply. Question is; What the hell did they use back in the thirties? All our oil today is formulated for the transmissions (and rear ends) of today. Old cars used the oil that they formulated for then. What ever they put in the oils or blended them, the oils were different that today. I will drain my oil and go with the heaviest gear oil that is available. I hope that works. I will let you know what I find out. Randy

Plym33, I downloaded the PDF File and lo and behold, item #14 is the detente ball ! Thank you for your help. Is the page out of a Motor Manual or a specific Plymouth book? I would like to get a copy of the book if possible. Randy